Hello all,
I am attempting to replace the clutch in my 87 Nissan Pulsar (1.6L
SOHC). I have followed the steps in the Haynes manual, and am ready to ease
the transaxle away from the engine. I believe that I have removed all the
transaxle-to-engine bolts, as well as all the motor mount bolts that are
applicable. However, the transaxle is still firmly attached to the engine.
I assume that it might be kind of stuck, but I'm not sure. Also, even
though I think I got every bolt, I could have missed one. If anyone knows
where I may have missed one, please post. If you have pulled the transaxle
away on anything similar (and as old - I'm not sure the last time it was
out - before me, that's for sure), please post. Last, I am assuming the
transaxle includes the transmission housing and what is analogous to the
"bell housing" - the part that has the throw-out bearing, fork, etc.
Thanks much.
Steve Parker - 16 Jan 2007 23:14 GMT
> Hello all,
>
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>
> Thanks much.
R,
Check for a clutch inspection plate that may need to be removed. I am
not familiar with that particular application but it did stop me on my
first engine pull.
Sparky
al - 17 Jan 2007 03:37 GMT
If the 1.6L in my 87 Sentra is the same as yours there isn't a
removable clutch inspection plate at the base of the bell housing that
needs removal. I don't recall any hidden bolts. You might try rocking
the transaxle side to side and then up and down to see if the bell
housing surface is separating slightly from the corresponding engine
mating surface. If the two are dead locked, then maybe you've missed a
bolt. Otherwise, the problem is that the transmission input shaft
splines are stuck on the clutch disk splines. The transaxle must be
supported with some kind of jack or blocks that prevent the transaxle
from sagging relative to the engine. If it sags even slightly, the
splines will jam. The transaxle needs to be supported while you rock
it around and simultaneously exert backward force while insuring that
when it breaks free it doesn't fall on the garage floor. That's
precisely the step that makes transmission removal such a joy!
Alternatively, though much less likely, the pilot bushing could be
seized on the end of the transmission input shaft. If so, I'd expect
you'd have been hearing some nasty noises while it was running. A dab
of grease in the bushing when you put it back together is good medicine
to preclude such an outcome. Good luck. Al
> Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Thanks much.
R Flowers - 17 Jan 2007 04:35 GMT
Thanks to both who have responded thus far.
I do have both the engine & and the transaxle supported by jacks. (Then
engine is just kind of 'helped' with a bit of plank and a towel underneath
the oil pan.) I do recall a flat protuburance that could be the clutch
inspection plate. I will check it out.
-- R Flowers
Speedy Pete - 20 Jan 2007 02:51 GMT
If you have checked and rechecked for that last bolt you may have
missed, then hook up your clutch actuator (cable or slave) and push the
pedal. This is enough to pop the trans loose without it going too far.
CAUTION- If it is a slave unit the slave piston MAY pop out if it moves
too much, depending on where its mounted.
-SP
> Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Thanks much.
R Flowers - 24 Jan 2007 02:54 GMT
> If you have checked and rechecked for that last bolt you may have
> missed....
For anyone interested, it *was* a missed bolt. I had missed one on the rear
motor mount that was recessed, but could be reached through an opening in
the bracket. That should have given it away. However, the clutch housing was
still pretty stuck to the engine, and require some gentle prying.
I have the new clutch on, but stopped when I noticed the worn clips that
hold the throw-out bearing in place. Although no one had them in stock, a
transmission shop guy said they were pretty much just to hold it there until
everything was reassembled, so I'm not too worried about them. It all goes
back together Saturday (well, let's hope).
-- R Flowers