on 9/6/2007 8:24 PM Nissanguy said the following:

I don't know the correct procedure to take off the 'button', but when
the airbag deploys, the horn button should release from the bottom first
so that it swings up out of the way of the bag. I don't know whether the
bottom holding clips are weaker than the top clips, or if the top is
hinged. Perhaps the horn button should be pulled from the bottom first?

See if any of these help:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/thisisme_024/RS_Page_09.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/thisisme_024/RS_Page_10.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/thisisme_024/RS_Page_11.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/thisisme_024/RS_Page_12.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/thisisme_024/RS_Page_13.jpg

From Nissanguy  - -  here's what wasx found out. I'd tried to jimmy the
middle of the steering wheel (horn button & air bag) off with a screwdriver
but it's probably held on with bolts. Then I saw 2 black plastic hatches
under the steering wheel & they both have a screwdriver slot at the top
which are used to pry them open. When looking inside these 2 housing
openings you can see the two lower (but not the top ones) sets of horn
contacts & they looked okay. I squirted these with Deoxit contact cleaner
(super stuff!) by Caig Labs & it didn't help any. I also put a shot of this
tuner cleaner spray on the small plug that probably connects to these horn
contacts. This plug could not be disconnected easily, unless you'd take the
whole 'works' off the top of the steering wheel. It LOOKS as if the "guts"
of this assembley might possibly be reachable if one would remove 2 special
torx screws you can see through the 2 lower hatch openings. HOWEVER these
are special tamper-proof (*customer* proof) Torx head screws that are about
7mm size (???) and they have a PIN that sticks up in the middle of the
screw's socket! So you'd need a SPECIAL torx wrench - surprise surprise.
Next I opened the small relay compartment sitting on the right front of the
engine compartment & pulled out the horn relay. I tried to take off the thin
black plastic relay top cover, but had to cut it off with a fine tooth razor
saw. I cut off the top first & then peeled the rest of the thin plastic off
bit by bit - it took about 7 minutes with small diagonal cutters & needle
nose. This tiny set of contacts is hard to see, but mine had a small bead of
slag (contacts welded with "dog nuts") which I knocked off with the point of
a small exacto knife. There's barely enough clearance to allow inserting a
5/32 inch wide stip of sandpaper between those 2 contacts. I slid the
sandpaper between the contacts - depressed the contacts to the "closed"
position & pulled the sandpaper back out. That was done maybe 20 times. Then
the contact "points" were squirted with Deoxit spray and the relay WITHOUT
its cover was reinstalled. Of course there still IS the plastic cover that
goes over all of those relays. The horn was beeped about 5 times in the
driveway & seems to work okay. If I have ANY MORE trouble with this cheesy
little horn relay I'll get a 12 volt Potter & Brumfield relay (industrial
quality) maybe from Digikey or Mouser Electronics (or on eBay) and install
that in place of the truly crappy one in this Nissan PU truck. It would only
be necessary to install the new relay onside of the relay box and run 3
wires back into that relay housing. The ground negative wire for the relay
coil could be connected to the truck body anywhere. You could use the OLD
relay base for a male "plug" - to connect the 3 wires from the new relay to
the socket inside the relay housing. Use one S/M screw to attach the relay
socket to the fender liner.