1992 Pathfinder speedometer needle sticks

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ImageAnalyst - 16 Sep 2007 23:37 GMT

The speedometer cable on my 1992 pathfinder sticks. A little over a
year ago, I noticed that the needle seems to have bent down (maybe it
got too hot one summer day??) so that it is very close to the dial.
Perhaps it even scrapes along it. I noticed that sometimes the needle
seems to get stuck at certain speeds and remains there despite
speeding up or slowing down. If I get more than about 5 mph away,
then it starts to respond again. Sometimes when I stop, the needle
stays pointing at 15 - 25 mph instead of 0. I never really know my
speed and thus may be at risk of getting a ticket, particularly around
the construction zones around here ($240 - ouch). Could it be
something as simple as needing to lube a speedometer cable, or would I
need to replace the entire gauge console and reset the odometer to the
current mileage. (I doubt the latter would happen, unless I get a
ticket, because I imagine that's pretty expensive - hopefully a shot
of WD-40 will do it.)

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Chuck Tribolet - 17 Sep 2007 04:48 GMT

A speedo cable problem usually manifests itself as a needle that bounces around.
I think you have a problem with the meter. The first thing I'd do is see if you can
get in there and bend the needle.

In a pinch you can use a GPS as a speedometer.

> The speedometer cable on my 1992 pathfinder sticks. A little over a
> year ago, I noticed that the needle seems to have bent down (maybe it
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> ticket, because I imagine that's pretty expensive - hopefully a shot
> of WD-40 will do it.)

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ImageAnalyst - 17 Sep 2007 16:34 GMT

> A speedo cable problem usually manifests itself as a needle that bounces around.
> I think you have a problem with the meter. The first thing I'd do is see if you can
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Chuck:
Thanks for the response. I'm worried that if I drilled a hole though
the plastic and tried to grab the needle and pull it away from the
dial that the needle would pop off completely. Maybe I'll try the GPS
- it'll probably be cheaper than fixing this thing properly.
Regards,
ImageAnalyst

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Andrew Chaplin - 17 Sep 2007 11:39 GMT

I am having the same problem on my '91 Pathfinder, particularly as it reaches
speeds over 90 Km/h. I have noticed the same droop at the end of the needle,
but there ought to be marks on the meter's face, and there are none. It
sometimes responds to my tapping on the plastic. I have been driving on the
tachometer, having done a half-arsed calibration on stretches of highway with
kilometre markers. I suspect I will eventually have to replace the instrument
cluster, since sometimes even the tach doesn't work at -25 C.

Signature

Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
(If you're going to e-mail me, you'll have to get "yourfinger." out.)

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ImageAnalyst - 17 Sep 2007 16:12 GMT

On Sep 17, 6:39 am, "Andrew Chaplin"
<ab.chap...@yourfinger.rogers.com> wrote:

> > The speedometer cable on my 1992 pathfinder sticks. A little over a
> > year ago, I noticed that the needle seems to have bent down (maybe it
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
> (If you're going to e-mail me, you'll have to get "yourfinger." out.)

I don't have any scrape marks on the dial either. At the axle (pivot
point), the needle seems to be parallel with the dial, but, like you
said, it droops down towards the dial at the tip of the needle.

My Pathfinder is so old and has so many other things wrong with it
that I'm never going to spend the money to get a new instrument
cluster. It's rusting apart, the fuel guage operates more like a
windshield wiper, the back license plate light rusted off and is
dangling, fuel leaks from the gas tank filler neck, it leaks fluid
from the differential, it leaks oil from the rear engine main seal,
the windshield flange flew off, the windshield is badly pitted (like
it's been sand blasted) and has several star gouges, the radio
speakers intermittently cut in and out, something wrong with the front
suspension, it sputters and chugs at low idle, the shock absorbers
don't absorb any shocks whatsoever, etc. It really should be put out
of its misery but I'm not going to get another car loan until this one
is really totally dead on the road and can't be fixed for less than
about two month's car payment.
Regards,
ImageAnalyst

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E Meyer - 17 Sep 2007 17:00 GMT

On 9/17/07 10:12 AM, in article
1190041961.982033.283330@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com, "ImageAnalyst"
<imageanalyst@mailinator.com> wrote:

> On Sep 17, 6:39 am, "Andrew Chaplin"
> <ab.chap...@yourfinger.rogers.com> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
> Regards,
> ImageAnalyst

Have you considered exploring the local junk yards for a wreck with a good
instrument cluster (and possibly some of the other parts you need)? Should
be cheaper than the $240 ticket.

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Andrew Chaplin - 17 Sep 2007 19:51 GMT

> On Sep 17, 6:39 am, "Andrew Chaplin"
>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
> is really totally dead on the road and can't be fixed for less than
> about two month's car payment.

Mine's not that old. ;^)

Actually, mine is operating fairly well, although it has depreciated
to the point where it would be beyond economical (but not practical)
repair if anything major were to happen. It has a sloppy rear
differential that often emits a low "clunk" at start-off in first
gear. My mechanic says it's normal wear and tear for a 16-year-old SUV
with about 250,000 Km, but it's a weakness that may eventually
sideline the vehicle. It has less than normal tin worm for its age
considering I operate it in the eastern Ontario winter with all its
salt
--
Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO

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