I'd put the battery on a charger 24 hours to clean up the lead sulfate
as much as possible.  I think the kind without a regulator does it best.
 If all I had was an automatic (regulated) charger, I'd charge it
several days if I had time.

For a car that had sat in a garage just a year, I wouldn't have thought
of squirting oil into the cylinders and giving it days to penetrate.
Wouldn't something thin like WD-40 or Marvel Mystery Oil penetrate faster?

I would remove the plugs, and squirting oil in sounds good.  If it were
my car, I'd disconnect the ignition and use the starter to turn it a
second or so without plugs to distribute that oil.

Then I'd give the oil a few minutes to penetrate.  I'd see if the car
rolled freely in the garage.  In an unlighted garage I could probably
check all my lights from the driver's seat.

I think the crankcase oil would be okay for now.  I'd rather change it
hot so it would flow faster and carry more sludge.  Before replacing the
plugs, I'd hit the starter several seconds to pump oil to the bearings.

I'd press the brake pedal fairly hard with the engine running, then get
out and see if the car still rolled freely.

Nissan says if your AC hasn't been run in a month, you should switch it
on momentarily several times with the engine idling, to distribute oil
in the compressor, then let it run several minutes.

Well, I once bought a 36 GMC panel truck that sat in a back yard from 1955
to 1973.  I trailered it home and did the following:
1. I pulled all six plugs and squirted Kroil (a very trick penetrating oil
which can be bought on line just Google the name) into the cylinders. I let
this sit for a couple of days.
2. I pulled the carb and shot Gunk carb cleaner through it. I then blew out
the passages with compressed air and put in a rebuild kit (gaskets seals
etc.)
3. I put in a new six volt battery and let it charge over night.
4. I drained the tank, flushed it with kerosene and filled it with five
gallons of gas.
5. I put a new diaphragm in the fuel pump and changed out the fuel filter.
6. I set off two Raid bug bombs in the cab to kill the black widows and the
mice
7. I changed the oil and the coolant.
8. I changed the plug wires.
9. I flushed the break lines, rebuilt the master cylinder and the individual
brake cylinders and I replaced the original rubber lines.
10. I hand cranked the engine several times ignition off to make sure the
rings were free and that the Kroil had done its job. This was not easy at
first as the rings had rusted to the walls but the Kroil did loosen it all
up.
11. I swapped out the points and condenser and set the gap and dead timed
the engine.
11. I shot some gas down the throat of the carb, pulled out the choke and
turned the key. It cranked for maybe 30 seconds and then fired up. Loads of
smoke.  This tapered off as it warmed up. After it ran for a few minutes, I
put a vacuum meter on the manifold and set the carb fuel air screw.
13. I then set the timing properly and re-adjusted the idle and air mix.
14. I swapped out the tires for new and drove over to Pep Boys for a
complete engine flush and coolant flush.
15. I also changed out the tranny and rear end lube. I drove that truck for
three years and almost 20 K more miles before I sold it. That owner pulled
the engine and put it in a sort of dune buggy/farm tractor thingy and as far
as I know, it ran another 6 or 7 years.

For the record, Kroil makes WD40 or Liquid Wrench look like useless nostrums
in comparison. This stuff is amazing.