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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / November 2007

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Honey, I Broke the Distributor

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Plague Boy - 12 Nov 2007 00:56 GMT
Well, it's getting cold here, the the '92 Sentra 1.6L is getting
harder to start in the 30F mornings. I changed the oil again last
weekend, so I thought it might be a good idea to install the new
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve and fuel filter that have
been sitting in the garage for two months.

    I figured out how to remove the boot-thingie over the
distributor cap and took a quick look at the cap itself. Ooh,
screws are *corroded*. Quick squirt of Liquid Wrench to the head,
end, and middle, and let it sit while I rinse the grunge off the
boot-thingie.

    Back a while later with an assortment of screwdrivers, another
squirt of LW, and...

...no, the front screw is just crumbling. OK, more LW and I will
peruse the toolbox for something that will work. Ah, very small
slip joint pliers, just the ticket. More liquid wrench, and a
gentle twist back and forth, a little more torque CCW and...ahh,
here it comes! Hmm, the end doesn't look like it's turning? Are
the pliers slipping? No..ahhh, #@$%&# the *screw* broke!

    Don't know how many caps I've changed and I've never had this
happen. There's always a first time....

    So... slotting the ends with a Dremel didn't work. Finally took
a really small drill bit and drilled a  hole through the screw.
It really was pretty centered, so I took a larger drill and made
a bigger hole. I still couldn't get anything in the hole to try
and budge the screw, so I used a third drill. Using a small
screwdriver in the hole did not accomplish anything, so I got my
smallest EZ-OUT and tried it. It actually fit! I started gently
feeding it in, and was rewarded after a few efforts by the
release of pressure as the screw started backing out. I rejoiced,
until I realized that the whole "ear" on the distributor body had
crumbled to dust. Leaving me to view the remarkably intact
threads on the inner side of the hole.

    So...I'm trying to figure out what next. I really don't want to
dump $200-300 into a reman distributor. OTOH, I really don't want
to get stranded, either.

    I'm thinking of slotting the body and fitting a threaded washer
type device, or maybe some kind of bracket. I've also been known
to do some remarkable things with Liquid Nails.

       Actually, I'd like a real repair, not a cob job, but
until this is fixed I'm walking to work. It looks as if I could
get a used distributor off eBay for about $40, could I swap my
"guts" if it didn't work? Also, I gather there is an O-ring that
goes bad on this model? There isn't any oil in my cap, although
the cap and rotor were totally shot.

    Thought I would ask the fine folks here on AAN if there's
anything I'm not aware of. Anybody?

"How was your weekend?"
"Great, I did $300 damage to my car!"

PB
Timmy Jones - 12 Nov 2007 01:12 GMT
I feel for you! On my 2001 Sentra, I tried to replace the hinges on the
driver's side. The door drops when you open it. I broke one of the bolt head
off, now! I have to remove my front fender to drill it out. It's never easy
when a vehicle gets old.

> Well, it's getting cold here, the the '92 Sentra 1.6L is getting harder to
> start in the 30F mornings. I changed the oil again last weekend, so I
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
>
> PB
Plague Boy - 17 Nov 2007 15:58 GMT
> I feel for you! On my 2001 Sentra, I tried to replace the hinges on the
> driver's side. The door drops when you open it. I broke one of the bolt head
> off, now! I have to remove my front fender to drill it out. It's never easy
> when a vehicle gets old.

    Ouch! I need to replace my lower driver's side hinge. I hope I
don't break anything. I will start the Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster
regimen today.

    I wish I'd done that with the distributor cap, but I couldn't
see how corroded it was under the boot. A few thermal cycles and
a week might have saved me the trouble.

    Anyhow, I managed to cob the cap on using a large wire tie and a
bent nail, and it's been working. I have also purchased a used
distributor on eBay. I was considering a new distributor, since
it seems to be a weak spot on this engine, but when I saw a used
one cheap I snapped it up.

    I had a nerve-wracking moment when I was taking the spark plugs
out. #2 plug didn't want to budge, even though I blew the wells
out with air and put Liquid Wrench in last week and before
removal. When it did budge, it resisted all the way out. Visions
of snapped plugs danced in my head. However, I did get all the
plugs out, they all were (reasonably) clean, only showing a gap
of 0.50- 0.60 for the years and thousands of miles. Compression
was about 175 in #1 and #2, and 165 in #3 and #4.

    I had purchased new Bosch Platinum Plus plugs before reading
here that the NGK were recommended. However, the engine has
increased power and runs noticeably better.

PB
Plague Boy - 26 Nov 2007 00:20 GMT
<snip>
>     I wish I'd done that with the distributor cap, but I couldn't see
> how corroded it was under the boot. A few thermal cycles and a week
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> to be a weak spot on this engine, but when I saw a used one cheap I
> snapped it up.

    Well, the distributor arrived Friday, and was found
satisfactory. I went out today and went to put it on. I've been
dosing the distributor hold-down bolts with penetrating oil, so I
gave it one last douse while I gathered tools and parts. Neither
one of the hold-down bolt seemed to want to loosen, though, so I
gave them another squirt and wiggled them with a wrench. Finally
the front bolt started turning- and snapped off.

    So I traded one problem for another. I had to think long and
hard about what I should do- put it back together, and hope that
the zip tie and bent nail last until I'm done with the car, or
try and get the rear bolt off, and put the new distributor on,
perhaps with only one bolt if I couldn't extract the front bolt.

    I managed to remove the rear bolt, and tried to drill out the
stub left in the hole. Unfortunately,  I broke off the EZ-out in
the hole I drilled, and attempts to remove the whole mess from
the other side were not successful.

    Since it was now dark, not to mention cold, I decided that the
new distributor, cap, rotor and wires would be just fine with
only one hold-down bolt. The car is now running, although it
sounds slightly different. I suspect the timing is changed, since
I didn't reset it.

    Conclusion number one- cheap EZ outs are a bad investment. I
noticed the first one that I used on the distributor cap screw
was bent, which may have had something to do with it breaking the
distributor.

    Conclusion number two- It's obviously wise to try to prevent
stuff from seizing up. Especially where cast aluminum is involved.

    Conclusion number three- both the bolts that broke were
"through" bolts; the rear dist. hold-down was a "blind" hole.
Obviously, where the water/corrosives can get at the bolt from
both sides, the problem will be worse.

    What I did was apply anti-seize compound on all the bolts I put
back. Of course, it's probably a moot point because the car will
not be around long enough for the problem to reoccur.

    Any comments on any of this? Any alternatives to anti-seize?
Anything I should know to watch out for?

PB
Warren Weber - 12 Nov 2007 02:25 GMT
> Well, it's getting cold here, the the '92 Sentra 1.6L is getting harder to
> start in the 30F mornings. I changed the oil again last weekend, so I
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> "How was your weekend?"
> "Great, I did $300 damage to my car!"

PB

>JB Weld?????
cmdrdata - 12 Nov 2007 20:33 GMT
Shoot me an email. In my garage I have a used Sentra distributor that might
do you some good. I think all GA16DE engine use the same distributor. I'll
send it to you and you can paypal me the shipping cost.

delete the "no" in nomail

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