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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / December 2007Giving it the boot
My son-in-law's '95 Altima needs a replacement right outer CV boot. The original has failed. My preference is to install one of those split boots rather than go to the trouble of pulling the hub and all that rigmarole. What brand split boot would you recommend? None, nothing like the original boot. > My son-in-law's '95 Altima needs a replacement right outer CV boot. The > original has failed. My preference is to install one of those split > boots rather than go to the trouble of pulling the hub and all that > rigmarole. > > What brand split boot would you recommend? Please clarify my understanding for putting an original type boot on. Loosen hub nut Remove wheel Separate lower ball joint and suspension arm Remove hub nut Tap hub inward to free it from the knuckle Position knuckle for ease of removing CV joint and hub shaft Now instead of removing the support bearing and removing the other end of the CV/shaft assembly from the transaxle I would like to separate the outer CV joint from the axle to facilitate relubing and putting on the new boot. Evidently a sliding weight type puller is used to disengage the hub/CV joint from the axle shaft. Is that correct? Also, it appears to me that the puller will be trying to destroy or distort a C ring which secures the axle in the CV joint. The C ring cannot be accessed once the shaft is inserted into the joint. Is that correct? Do you think that I can do the outer CV joint separation without pulling the entire half shaft out of the machine? > None, nothing like the original boot. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> >> What brand split boot would you recommend? I guess it all depends on how much "rigamarole" you want to go through as you will surely need to rigamaole the thing again and again. Bottom line is SPLIT BOOTS ARE PIECES OF sh.t, THEY DON'T WORK ! Besides think about what your doing, you basically putting a protective cover over a CV joint that has been contaminated with dirt from the road , so in a sense you are dooming the joint to failure. To properly reboot a CV joint it should be removed , cleaned of any dirt and debris, re packed with grease and rebooted with new clamps. > My son-in-law's '95 Altima needs a replacement right outer CV boot. The > original has failed. My preference is to install one of those split boots > rather than go to the trouble of pulling the hub and all that rigmarole. > > What brand split boot would you recommend? > My son-in-law's '95 Altima needs a replacement right outer CV boot. The > original has failed. My preference is to install one of those split boots > rather than go to the trouble of pulling the hub and all that rigmarole. > > What brand split boot would you recommend? The advice you're getting is pessimistic but unfortunately it is quite correct. The split boots are notoriously unreliable. Whatever mechanism is used to seal the seam usually fails. It is a quick fix for a car you want to keep running a little while longer before getting rid of it. It's not a long term repair. If you plan on keeping the car, you might consider replacing the whole axle shaft with a rebuilt one. Rebuilt axle shafts are commonly available at all auto parts stores, are generally reasonably priced, and you need only remove the old one and replace it with the rebuild without having to fool with the joint. I replaced both axle shafts in my old Sentra with rebuilds from Advance Auto and was very happy with both of them. Good luck. Al Al, Thanks for that insight. It looks like the price range for shafts is about $70 to $110 depending on manufacturer and whether it's a new or rebuilt unit. So you would not have any qualms about a rebuilt unit? If I replace the whole thing will a special tool be needed to protect the transaxle seal when reinserting that end? It's my understanding that there is a circular clip on the end of the transaxle shaft. Does it release easily when pulling the shaft out and reengage just as easily upon reinsertion? >> My son-in-law's '95 Altima needs a replacement right outer CV boot. The >> original has failed. My preference is to install one of those split [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > with rebuilds from Advance Auto and was very happy with both of them. > Good luck. Al > Al, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > If I replace the whole thing will a special tool be needed to protect > the transaxle seal when reinserting that end? If it's like ones I've done, then you don't really need the tool, but you do need to take care as either the C-clip or the rough edges of the splines could damage the seal. Good access and using two hands helps. > It's my understanding that there is a circular clip on the end of the > transaxle shaft. Does it release easily when pulling the shaft out and > reengage just as easily upon reinsertion? Some force is usually needed to get it out - you won't pull it out by hand. Usually levering with a crowbar or large screwdriver between the shaft and transmission housing - check the manual on this. Sometimes one side comes out like that, with an instruction to use a rod or long screwdriver carefully put right through the transmission to pop out the other side axle. Make sure you can see what you're doing, as there's dust covers on the shafts protecting the seal, and you can wreck them by poking a bar in too deep. Popping the shaft back in is easy - take care with the seals as above, a sharp tap with a mallet on the CV joint end of the fitted shaft should seat the C-clip. Frederick, Thanks for sharing your experience. Your information has boosted my confidence in being able to complete the job. Thanks again. >> Al, >> [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > sharp tap with a mallet on the CV joint end of the fitted shaft should > seat the C-clip. > Frederick, > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Frederick's advice is exactly correct. A large screwdriver or pry bar will pop the axle shaft out of the transaxle. My Sentra had a notch specifically for placing the screwdriver/prybar in the right spot. Smack it back in with a rubber mallet, hiting the spindle end with the axle shaft held as straight as possible. Try to place the circlip with the open end facing the ground to minimize the possibility of the circlip slipping down and resisting going in. The price range you quoted for the axle shaft sounds just right. I had no problems with the Advance Auto rebuilt one. If you can get a new one for $100 it's probably worth it. Good luck. Al Al, You and Frederick have provided me with very helpful information that doesn't show up in service manuals. Thanks. I'm obliged to you both. >> Frederick, >> [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > the Advance Auto rebuilt one. If you can get a new one for $100 it's > probably worth it. Good luck. Al > Al, > [quoted text clipped - 60 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful. Here's one last tip. If you are only replacing one axle shaft, jack up the side of the car from which you are removing the axle shaft a little higher than the other side of the car. That will minimize the amount of trans fluid that will come out of the transaxle when the axle shaft is removed. Good luck. Al |
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