My 1994 Sentra (1.6 Liter 4cyl Automatic) died while I was driving it
and it wouldn't restart. I had it towed to a local shop who after a
couple weeks told me it was the ignition coil wire. They replaced
that and it would start again, however it barely ran. I didn't like
that shop very much so I took it to the local Nissan Dealer who told
me the Distributor Cap was cracked and had water in it. They also
said that it needed a tune-up. I took it home and replaced the cap,
rotor, plug wires, plugs, air filter, pcv valve and fuel filter. I
also ran some fuel injection cleaner through it. It runs very smooth
now, but it still accelerates very poorly. When I first step on the
gas from a stop it barely moves until it reaches 15-20mph and then it
runs ok. Then once I'm driving down the road if I step on the gas it
hesitates until it downshifts.
I pulled out each plug one by one and they each testing positive for
spark. The Check Engine Light has not come on. Any other suggestions
on what I should check? Any help will be appreciated?
Thanks,
Brian
Catherine Jemma - 08 Aug 2004 13:51 GMT
I don't know about your exact model, but possible the ignition timing is a
little too far advanced
Retarded timing makes a car start easier from cold and run up hills etc
Advanced timing is needed for good higher speed running
Sometimes if the timing is too far advanced you can hear a
"pinging/knocking" if for instance accelerating hard in top gear, especially
if going up a hill
This simple test, is not so easy to do in an auto gbox car (as it will
change down a gear on you)
Assuming your car has normal type ignition points (and NOT pointless
ignition) then fitting new points, and setting their gap correctly, can have
the effect of slightly setting the timing wrong (compared to what it was
before, with the old points installed)
One "fix" is to slightly set the points "wrong" (a little tiny bit less or
more than the recommended gap)
However this upsets...if I'm right, the "dwell angle" so can only be used to
a limited degree.
The proper fix for wrong timing is to correct the timing. Some old English
cars had a "micrometer" adjustment using a finger turned knurled nut on the
distributor (I used to have my 1959 Vanguard set, so that for cold Winter
starts with the handcrank, I'd adjust the knurled nut all the way to
"Retard", then wind it back all the way to "Advance" once the engine
started.....I never once had any bad experiences with the crank starting
handle ! (Heard stories of broken jaws and thumbs ripped off)
Most cars nowadays no longer have that fine "micrometer" adjustment. It's
necessary to loosen off the 2 bolts securing the base of the distributor and
twist the body of it VERY GENTLY a tiny bit one way or the other
Take the dist cap off and see which way the rotor top turns while having a
friend turn the starter momentarily
Now you can visualise "if I turn the dizzy THIS way, the spark happens
EARLIER (ie advanced) and if I turn the dizzy This way, the spark happens
later, ie Retarded
I notice that my Nissan, the rotation of the distributor rotor is the
opposite to what all the English cars I've had is
If possible, use a felt pen or something to mark the dizzy body-base and
mounting base before you try moving them, that way you can always return it
if no improvement is made
Remember that you only want to turn the dizzy a tiny bit (usually it's a bit
stiff and then suddenly it turns a lot and you have to turn it back some)
DO NOT LIFT THE DIZZY UP or the drive thingy underneath will get all out of
kilter etc etc, ya don't wanna go there
When my Nissan came back from the Datsun specialist after having some major
engine work done (new timing chain and gears, I's thrilled with their work
generally) but I noticed when going up a decent hill that it "pinged" very
badly
After I got home, I retarded the timing very slightly, the pinging on hills
is now "almost eliminated" (which is generally considered to be the right
effect) and the car's been going great ever since
cheers
Catherine
Rural Western Australia
Catherine Jemma - 08 Aug 2004 13:55 GMT
Mmm on re-reading you post it seems as if your model of car probably doesn't
have contact-breaker-points and as such you wouldn't have changed them and
upset the timing that way
I dunno exactly what your electronic engine management system does, and how
much it tests for. Perhaps the "check engine" light would react to bad
timing and perhaps it wouldn't
Sorry I can't be of much help, but hopefully someone with more knowledge of
your actual model will reply
cheers
Meat-->Plow - 08 Aug 2004 15:17 GMT
>My 1994 Sentra (1.6 Liter 4cyl Automatic) died while I was driving it
>and it wouldn't restart. I had it towed to a local shop who after a
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Thanks,
You've done all you can besides finding a reputable repair facility and paying
them to fix the problem.
Paychek - 08 Aug 2004 15:30 GMT
Does the hesitation seem to happen when the gas pedal is in a certain
position? (Light acceleration vs full throttle)
When at cruising speed does the tranny seem to shift in and out of lockup?
If so I would check / replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

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97 Tacoma
92 G-20 Conversion
93 Caravan
95 Altima
> My 1994 Sentra (1.6 Liter 4cyl Automatic) died while I was driving it
> and it wouldn't restart. I had it towed to a local shop who after a
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Brian
Brian - 08 Aug 2004 23:03 GMT
Thank you to everyone that has replied so far.
The hesitation does seem to happen more if I step further down on the
gas pedal. If I press down on the gas pedal very slowly the car
accelerates more smoothly. Two things:
1. Is there a way to check the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) without
replacing it first?
2. Catherine - Thank you for the detailed reply. You mentioned that
the timing might be off. Well that first shop that I took the car to
(the one I didn't like) replaced the ignition coil wire. However, the
first week they had the car they told me they thought the problem was
with the distributor or the ignition module/coil. Maybe while
diagnosing the starting problem they accidentally messed up the
timing? I'll take a look at the distributor and see if I can figure
out how to adjust the timing. Any additional tips on this would be
greatly appreciated.
Thank you again for all your help. One more thing - if it helps - the
car has about 100,000 miles on it.
Thanks,
Brian
Paychek - 09 Aug 2004 03:05 GMT
Hey Brian,
This site will give you a general idea of what problems the TPS can cause
and how to check it.
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0
4/ae/b5/0900823d8004aeb5.jsp
For a more detailed test procedure, pick up a Haynes (or whichever you
prefer) manual. It will give you the test steps, exact voltage readings,
etc...
For my 95 Altima (don't know if yours will be the same) the readings are 0.4
/ 0.5 volts at idle and 5.0 volts at full throttle. (readings are with the
ignition on and the car not running)
good luck.

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97 Tacoma
92 G-20 Conversion
93 Caravan
95 Altima
> Thank you to everyone that has replied so far.
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Brian
Brian - 10 Aug 2004 14:48 GMT
Here are the results of testing the TPS sensor:
There were three wires going into the sensor.
1. The top wire had no voltage.
2. The middle wire had about 5 volts regardless of the throttle
position.
3. The bottom wire had about 0.4 volts at idle and increased as I
opened the throttle.
Based on this I'm guessing the TPS sensor must be working. Does that
sound right to you? Any other suggestions?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Brian
Sapere Aude - 16 Aug 2004 20:51 GMT
> Here are the results of testing the TPS sensor:
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Brian
I had a 1993 Sentra with the same symptoms. These cars have finicky
fuel injectors, and if one or two are acting up, you will have the
results which you describe. My car ran badly off the line, fine from
15 to 80, where power petered out. Try this at idle:
Pull the #1 plug wire off. Does the engine run rougher? If so,
replace plug wire and move on to #2, #3, and finally #4. If you find
that pulling the wire DOES NOT make the idle worse or much worse, then
you have a dead cylinder. Replace the fuel injector ($60) on this
cylinder (takes about a half hour and you need to remove the valve
cover - good time to change the gasket).
None of this set the check engine light on my Sentra, and this
happened around 100,000 miles.
YMMV
Brian - 17 Aug 2004 19:02 GMT
Thank you for the reply. I actually have already tried this test. I
pulled each plug wire off individually and checked how the car ran.
It ran equally as rough with each plug wire removed individually. Is
there another way to test the fuel injectors?
Also, I still haven't been able to check the timing. I can't find any
timing marks on the engine. Does anyone know if this car has timing
marks and if so where they are located?
Thank you for your help.
-Brian
Brian - 24 Aug 2004 15:51 GMT
It's fixed!
Turns out it was the timing. The timing was set to 5 degrees Above
Top Dead Center and I found the factory setting is supposed to be 10
degrees Below Top Dead Center on the 1.6L 4cyl. The following
websites helped to figure out how to check and adjust the timing:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl676a-lib.htm
http://www.sentra.net/tech/maintenance.php?S=5d14ba55dfd0d5df5677b3101846adaa#minor
Thank you to everyone who provided suggestions and advice. I really
appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Brian