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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / November 2004

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Aftermarket Parking Brake for '04 Frontier?

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Ulysses - 10 Nov 2004 02:39 GMT
Anyone know of a hand-operated brake that could replace the existing
foot-operated parking brake on the Frontier?  I've owned at least 5
cars/trucks with manual transmissions and all had a brake that could be
easily activated and controlled while stopped on a hill.  When I test drove
the truck it was all pretty flat and it didn't even occur to me to check the
brake situation.  To me it is how you drive a manual.  The only way I can
get going uphill without rollback is to control the gas and brake at the
same time with one foot.  It's hell on dirt roads and probably isn't doing
the clutch any good.

Thanks.
SneakerFreak - 11 Nov 2004 01:34 GMT
On 11/9/04 9:39 PM, in article 10p2vqo2t00qod3@corp.supernews.com, "Ulysses"
<therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Anyone know of a hand-operated brake that could replace the existing
> foot-operated parking brake on the Frontier?  I've owned at least 5
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> same time with one foot.  It's hell on dirt roads and probably isn't doing
> the clutch any good.
No offense, but learn to drive stick first.  One of the first lessons my Dad
taught me when driving stick was to start from a stop without rolling back.
Now I hardly ever roll back at all on a hill.  It's all about learning how
to drive it properly and the friction point of the clutch.  It will take
some practice but is worth it.  I never touch the e-brake and can go from
neutral to moving on a hill without any rollback.
Ulysses - 11 Nov 2004 03:09 GMT
No offense to you either, but how is it possible to "feather" the clutch
while stopped on a hill, without using the brakes, and not wear out your
clutch in a big hurry?  The only way I can see to do it the clutch would be
only partially engaged.  Most certainly I am capable of doing this (been
driving a stick for about 35 years) but to me part of knowing how to drive
is how to keep your vehicle from wearing out prematurely from improper use.

> No offense, but learn to drive stick first.  One of the first lessons my Dad
> taught me when driving stick was to start from a stop without rolling back.
> Now I hardly ever roll back at all on a hill.  It's all about learning how
> to drive it properly and the friction point of the clutch.  It will take
> some practice but is worth it.  I never touch the e-brake and can go from
> neutral to moving on a hill without any rollback.
SneakerFreak - 12 Nov 2004 00:22 GMT
On 11/10/04 10:09 PM, in article 10p5m06bpssk3a9@corp.supernews.com,

> No offense to you either, but how is it possible to "feather" the clutch
> while stopped on a hill, without using the brakes, and not wear out your
> clutch in a big hurry?  The only way I can see to do it the clutch would be
> only partially engaged.  Most certainly I am capable of doing this (been
> driving a stick for about 35 years) but to me part of knowing how to drive
> is how to keep your vehicle from wearing out prematurely from improper use.
Simple - know the friction point real well and you can get off the brake and
on the clutch without rolling back.  I've been driving stick for 14 years
and learned immediately how to do it.  It's pretty simple once you get the
hang of it.  Probably go quick to about 1/2 way and then regular from there.

If it's pretty flat, I'll sit in neutral with the clutch out (saves the
throwout bearing) and can get going pretty quick.  If it's a real steep
hill, I may stay in 1st with the clutch pressed.  But I don't feather (or
even keep it dragging) at all on a hill.
Steve T - 11 Nov 2004 17:46 GMT
>  To me it is how you drive a manual.  

??? I've been driving a stick for 30 years and have never used the
handbrake.... I don't "hill hold" with the clutch either, you just have to
be quick going from the brake to gas.

Signature


Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

SneakerFreak - 12 Nov 2004 00:24 GMT
On 11/11/04 12:46 PM, in article 2vgciqF2l0c87U3@uni-berlin.de, "Steve T"
<fotocord@yahoo.com> wrote:

> ??? I've been driving a stick for 30 years and have never used the
> handbrake.... I don't "hill hold" with the clutch either, you just have to
> be quick going from the brake to gas.
Only used the e-brake a couple times.  One of which was when I was in NYC
and pulling out of a parking garage that must have been a 30 degree hill.
This guy in a Mercedes S-class pulls up practically to my bumper....  Not
wanting to scratch a $70k car, I used the e-brake.

But get used to going from brake to clutch quick and you will never use the
brake.
Ulysses - 12 Nov 2004 01:15 GMT
OK, so by now I guess we can say it's established that I don't know how to
drive a stick.  But how long do your clutches last?  When I sold my Toyota
truck it had 150,000 miles on it and still had the original clutch (brakes
too).

I will practice the technique you guys suggested but I still think the tires
are gonna spin on dirt.

> On 11/11/04 12:46 PM, in article 2vgciqF2l0c87U3@uni-berlin.de, "Steve T"
> <fotocord@yahoo.com> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> But get used to going from brake to clutch quick and you will never use the
> brake.
SneakerFreak - 13 Nov 2004 15:37 GMT
On 11/11/04 8:15 PM, in article 10pa38eds122jf5@corp.supernews.com,

> OK, so by now I guess we can say it's established that I don't know how to
> drive a stick.  But how long do your clutches last?  When I sold my Toyota
> truck it had 150,000 miles on it and still had the original clutch (brakes
> too).
Well, I can't say.  I have an '86 mustang 2.3, 1st car (don't ask -
sentimental reasons why I can't get rid of it) in '92 - bought with 58k on
it, needed a new clutch by 65k.  May have been me learning to drive stick
and being a kid (trying to peel out, etc)...  @ 100k the front trans seal
puked oil all over the clutch.  @ 130k a botched starter ring gear had the
mechanic insisting I get a new clutch to fix a weird engagement issue.
@150k the clutch fork wore out and took the clutch/throwout bearing with it.
@175k all seems well with the clutch.

Bought a '97 Cobra which I put 58k on the clutch with no issues before I
traded it....

Have an '04 G35 6 speed with 15k on it and no issues.  This will be my 200k
car, so I'm hoping I go at least 150k before I need a clutch.

> I will practice the technique you guys suggested but I still think the tires
> are gonna spin on dirt.

They may spin a little, esp. with an empty bed.  But it shouldn't hurt
anything.
Ulysses - 13 Nov 2004 21:40 GMT
At this point I'm not so worried about the clutch as I am the roads.  I'm
the one that has  maintain them :-(

At least BOTH tires spin on the Frontier.  On my old Frod F350 only one
usually spins and digs a huge hole.

> > I will practice the technique you guys suggested but I still think the tires
> > are gonna spin on dirt.
>
> They may spin a little, esp. with an empty bed.  But it shouldn't hurt
> anything.
Ulysses - 14 Nov 2004 05:00 GMT
I have a '92 Explorer with 265,000 on it and a '91 that will hit 200,000
soon.  I also had an '82 Datsun 510 with about 249,000 when the odometer
broke and I think it had about 400,000 on it when i finally got rid of it.
The thing still ran good!!!  That's one of the reasons I bought the
Frontier.

> Have an '04 G35 6 speed with 15k on it and no issues.  This will be my 200k
> car, so I'm hoping I go at least 150k before I need a clutch.
Rob Munach - 12 Nov 2004 11:35 GMT
> On 11/11/04 12:46 PM, in article 2vgciqF2l0c87U3@uni-berlin.de, "Steve T"
> <fotocord@yahoo.com> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> But get used to going from brake to clutch quick and you will never use the
> brake.

You can also learn to heel-toe shift (as racers do). Essentially you put
your right foot on both the brake and gas at the same time and you are
free to use your left foot for the clutch. Your right foot can then
modulate the brake and the gas by rolling it left or right. Takes some
practice.

Signature

Rob Munach, PE
Excel Engineering
PO Box 1264
Carrboro, NC 27510

 
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