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Car Forum / Oldsmobile Cars / July 2004

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PowerMaster III (ABS) ???

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Rick Colombo - 22 Oct 2003 01:12 GMT
The MC (Master Cylinder) was leaking on my '90 Cutlass last year and I
replaced it with one from the junkyard.  This unit has the ABS built
into the MC, it's called a PowerMaster III and was used on GM cars from
'89 thru '91.  GM wanted ~$2400 to R&R this unit and local shop was
asking ~$1300 plus core.  I got it from a junkyard for $350 and it works
fine with one little problem.

The brake lights stay on all the f#$K time and I can't figure out what
is causing this.

I did have a problem like this once before, it turned out to be the
switch mechanism attached to the brake pedal.  Adjusting doesn't help,
but I didn't replace it this time because the problem showed up the day
I changed the PowerMaster III so I discounted this as the culprit.

On the MC itself, there is a switch (of sorts) that slides into/under
the MC and it has two wires on it.  I think this switch (somehow) can
tell when you are out/low of brake fluid and trips the dash "brake" light.

So my question is this, does anyone know of something that involves the
PowerMaster III MC which could turn on the (rear) brake lights all the
time?  I was thinking of something like the inertia switch for the fuel
pump because the "donor" car was in an accident.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to tell you how I turn the brake lights off
(and on).  I removed the fuse, inserted a wire into each slot and
attached them to a switch which I have located by the console shift
lever.  So when I stop (actually, my daughter is the main driver), you
turn the switch on, then off when you take your foot of the brake.  I
didn't like the idea of a momentary switch because you would have to
have your hand on it the entire time you are braking and I thought that
would be too dangerous.  Right now, the biggest problem is forgetting to
turn the switch "on", but it's been so long that it has become habit.
When my daughter drives my Bronco, she reaches for the (non-existent)
brake switch.

Thanks for any and all replies.

Signature

Rick Colombo@Ameritech.net  and/or  colombo@fnal.gov
'90 Olds Cutlass Supreme International (w/3.1L)
'93 Bronco 351EFI E4OD/BW1356 D44-Ford8.8/open 2"-lift 35"-tires

Phrederik - 22 Oct 2003 01:46 GMT
> The MC (Master Cylinder) was leaking on my '90 Cutlass last year and I
> replaced it with one from the junkyard.  This unit has the ABS built
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> The brake lights stay on all the f#$K time and I can't figure out what
> is causing this.

New master cylinder may have a longer/shorter pushrod that is putting your
brake pedal in a different position.

Disconnect the brake switch on the pedal and see if the lights go out.
Probably just need to readjust the switch position.
noone@yahoo.com - 22 Oct 2003 07:14 GMT
>The MC (Master Cylinder) was leaking on my '90 Cutlass last year and I
>replaced it with one from the junkyard.  This unit has the ABS built
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>The brake lights stay on all the f#$K time and I can't figure out what
>is causing this.

<snip>

Sounds like you need to adjust the brake light switch.  If you pulled the
brake pedal up to disengage the push rod to swap out the master cylinder
(ABS Unit) than you pushed the brake light switch out of adjustment.

Its a real pain in the a.s to get to, but it is doable.  If you have a book
on the car the procedure is in there (Chiltons, etc.).

There is a little hook on the brake light switch you have to pull with a
home made hook, pull the hook on the switch out as far as it will go while
holding the brake peddle up as far as it will go, then release the hook and
push the brake peddle down.  You should hear some clicking as you push the
brake peddle down which indicates that it is adjusting.  If you don't hear
the clicks, you have to pull the brake light switch adjustment release out
again and repeat the procedure.

It's difficult to explain where the adjustment release hook is on the brake
light switch but if you stick your head under you can probable see it.
Looks like a "J".

If you need more info, reply to this post.

Dave in Columbus
Rick Colombo - 25 Oct 2003 02:18 GMT
Well you cut out some of my original post, but I did mention that I know
all about that brake switch on the brake pedal and I did try to adjust
it like you mentioned, but that didn't help.

>I did have a problem like this once before, it turned out to be the
>switch mechanism attached to the brake pedal.  Adjusting doesn't help,
>but I didn't replace it this time because the problem showed up the
day >I changed the PowerMaster III so I discounted this as the culprit.

To replace the MC, I really didn't pull on the brake pedal in any
unusual way, plus this didn't happen when I removed/reinstalled the
original MC on two occasions.  Thatis, in my earlier attempts to
determine what was wrong with the original MC (before I decided to
replace it), I removed and reinstalled the old MC at least twice w/o
causing the brake light problem.

Anyway, I'll just get a new brake light switch and see if that solves my
problem because it sounds like this is the only device that can cause
this problem, so it's not likely to be caused by the MC.  Thanks for
your advice.

Btw my friend Dave call me Columbus so I'm: "Colombus in Chicago" ;-)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

>>The MC (Master Cylinder) was leaking on my '90 Cutlass last year and I
>>replaced it with one from the junkyard.  This unit has the ABS built
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> Dave in Columbus

Signature

Rick Colombo@Ameritech.net
'90 Olds Cutlass Supreme International (w/3.1L)
'93 Bronco 351EFI E4OD/BW1356 D44-Ford8.8/open 2"-lift 35"-tires

noone@yahoo.com - 25 Oct 2003 04:55 GMT
>Well you cut out some of my original post, but I did mention that I know
>all about that brake switch on the brake pedal and I did try to adjust
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, good luck on installing the brake light switch.  Hope that fixes your
problem.

When I replaced my Powermaster III, I pulled up on the brake pedal to
release it from the unit and messed up the switch.  I'd much rather R&R
that Powermaster II unit than have to replace that switch again.  Just no
room to work where that switch is located.

Dave in Columbus
papabear - 11 Jul 2004 18:45 GMT
I have a 91 olds, and I need a powermaster brake unit.
Can you help me.

Reply to this Email Address ( cwgpeg@aol.com)
Dave in Columbus - 12 Jul 2004 05:47 GMT
>I have a 91 olds, and I need a powermaster brake unit.
>Can you help me.
>
>Reply to this Email Address ( cwgpeg@aol.com)

Give these guys a call or you can order it online.  I replaced mine last
year with a rebuilt unit  from Prior Remanufacturing.  They offer a three
year warranty.

http://www.priorreman.com/

Signature

Dave in Columbus

 
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