How do you adjust valves

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Weedahoe - 23 Nov 2003 18:38 GMT

Does anyone know what the proper procedure is for adjusting valves on a set
of heads? I have heard two different ways. One by doing each valve at a time
and the other is by getting the piston to TDC and then setting the valves by
getting zero lash and then preload. Does anyone know which is correct or the
better procedure?

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localvox - 24 Nov 2003 01:44 GMT

Try this link, it's for a Chevy, but the method is sound.
http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html

You could also go to cranecams or compcams,
they have both methods listed in the tech pages.

Goodluck!

> Does anyone know what the proper procedure is for adjusting valves on a set
> of heads? I have heard two different ways. One by doing each valve at a time
> and the other is by getting the piston to TDC and then setting the valves by
> getting zero lash and then preload. Does anyone know which is correct or the
> better procedure?

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Weedahoe - 24 Nov 2003 06:00 GMT

i have the page from com cams but when i called them the tech spoke of a
different way to do it and uo wanted to make sire they were getting done
properly b/c i didnt want to mess anything up.

> Try this link, it's for a Chevy, but the method is sound.
> http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> the
> > better procedure?

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Steve G - 24 Nov 2003 20:47 GMT

Procedure is different depending on the manufacturer. The method you
describe being done at TDC with engine static is usually just to get them
close enough to start the engine safely. Most hydraulic lifters on
adjustable valve trains are done while running. On a small block chev, with
the engine running and valve cover off, you back each adjuster off, one at a
time, until they clatter. Tighten slowly until the noise just stops.
Slowly tighten another full turn in 1/4 turn increments, allowing the
lifter to bleed down as you do it. Move on to the next one.

Having said all of that, most hydraulic lifters are not adjustable. The
rocker is simply tightened down until it bottoms on it's stop.
Know what you have before you start anything.

Steve

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c - 24 Nov 2003 23:29 GMT

I actually set all my hydraulic lifters without the engine running. It's
just too messy the other way, even with the oil clips installed. Just bring
the engine to TDC with both valves closed. Turn the adjuster until all of
the play is gone, and then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn for preload. Haven't
had a noisy lifter this way yet. Just remember, most of the Olds engines do
not have a lifter adjustment like Steve said. These engines just have a
torque spec for the rocker arm retaining bolts.

Chris

> Procedure is different depending on the manufacturer. The method you
> describe being done at TDC with engine static is usually just to get them
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> the
> > better procedure?

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Weedahoe - 25 Nov 2003 05:42 GMT

Thanks Chris and Steve, yes the original valve train isnt adjustable but I
am using a Comp Cams valve train that is adjustable so that is why I was
asking. Being I have painted this engine and is has a lot of chrome trim,
plus the fact that I freshly painted the engine compartment, i dont think i
want to adjust them with the engine running as a mess would be made. thanks
for the info from both of you though.

> I actually set all my hydraulic lifters without the engine running. It's
> just too messy the other way, even with the oil clips installed. Just bring
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> > the
> > > better procedure?

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Steve G - 25 Nov 2003 20:30 GMT

I too have adjusted them static when trying to keep things clean. In fact,
there is a routine that will tell you which valves you can adjust at TDC on
#1, turn it 90 degrees and do a few more etc. Can't remember it though. I
do know this much though, it's not as accurate as with it running. Not
critical on most stock applications, but if I was wanting most precise I
would do it running. When ever I assemble an engine I do the dry
adjustment. I've done it both the way you suggest and the published fast
method. I've then adjusted them again running and found that I was not
backing off exactly the one turn I had tightened them when static. I also
had a 340hp 327 in my 63 Vette. This was a stock, special high performance
engine that used a solid lifter cam set at .008 and .010, I think.
Definately a couple of thou difference when I re-adjusted them running.
One way to minimize the oil mess is to take an old valve cover and cut
a slot in it above the adjusters running the length of the cover. Glue a
gasket in place with weather stripping adhesive so that you can re-use it.
You can also wedge a piece of cardboard between the valve springs and
the lip on the head on the exhaust side (SBC) curving it up at the end.
This, when used with the clips will usually control the oil fairly well.
I agree tho, hate the mess.
Steve

> Thanks Chris and Steve, yes the original valve train isnt adjustable but I
> am using a Comp Cams valve train that is adjustable so that is why I was
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> > > the
> > > > better procedure?

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Steve G - 25 Nov 2003 20:33 GMT

Forgot to add. When adjusting without running, one way to find when you're
at 0 is to be turning the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the
adjuster. As soon as you hit 0 lash you will no longer be able to spin the
pushrod.
Steve

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