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Car Forum / Oldsmobile Cars / May 2004

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Aurora Questions

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just dave - 10 May 2004 05:23 GMT
 Hi I'm in process of buying a 1995 Olds Aurora.
 A few questions;
    Were there many changes between the first year 1995, (is '95 the
first year)?, and last 2004?, ?
    Mine has 4.0 Liter, are there other motors? Better worse?
    Weaknessess & strengths for Aurora in general, & my year
specifically?  
   
   I see Olds finally stoped production a week or 2 ago (May 2004). Did
I hear correctly that the last 500 were Auroras? To reiterate; How
different is the 1995 from the 2004?
   Thanks Very Much, --- Dave
   Please post here or email me.
   
      1950 Studerbaker "Champion"
                       'Bullet Nose'
       '67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler                    
       '80 Suzuki GS1100E
       '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Steve G - 10 May 2004 14:26 GMT
Where to start?  There are 2 series Aurora, the first 95 to 99 are all near
identical. to the 95. Only one available engine and I think actually only 3
available options, sunroof, chromed alum wheels and an Autobahn gear ratio
package.  Lots of standard features, heated power seats both sides with
lumbar controls, leather.  All are powered by the 4.0 version of the
cadillac Northstar engine.
The second series is 01 to 04  (there was no 2000 Aurora) is a complete
redesign, smaller body and far less distinctive. Hard to tell it from a
Maxima or Altima, or even a late model Taurus. Yech.   In this series there
were fewer standard features, more options.  Heated seats no longer
standard, power on pass side an option etc.  Now came standard with a 3.5
v-6 "Shortstar", a Northstar with 2 cyl. lopped off. 4.0 now an option.
   I have a 96 and tho I love the drive and looks it's been the biggest
piece of sh.t I've ever owned and I've owned a lot of cars.  The Northstar
is a very sophisticated engine and superior design, uses a split crankcase
with the crankshaft mounted between the crankcase halves for a vastly
superior lower end, something cadillac had lacked for the previous 12 years.
Unfortunately 95-96 Northstars were prone to an oil leak between the case
halves, corrected in later models.  About a $6 dollar gasket and almost
$2000 in labor.  I've had numerous electrical faults, the oil level
indicater has never functioned properly.  Intermittant high idle that's been
impossible to diagnose.  Premature rusting below the gas door due to a
leaking body assembly gasket (requires long drawn out explanatin),  problems
with AC, seat controls, window controls, trans overhauled at less than
80,000 km., (50,000mi), lifters failed in the front head only, and a host of
other problems.

But, as I said earlier, a hoot to drive once you figure out how.  It's real
old fashioned performance, poor low rpm power because of the camshaft design
but really comes on over 3500 rpm.  Will walk a stock 5.0 mustang from a
light but has to catch him after the first few feet.  By learning to drive
it I meant you have to drive it like you're mad at it.  There's a button on
the shifter labeled norm and power.  My is set to power all the time.  What
that does is put the trans shifts a little higher up, into the power band.
You have to keep the rpm up to have available power at your toe.  If you
stand on the pedal from a dead stop it will move away from the stop okay,
but as the tach hits about 3500 - 4000 it will really start to pull and the
tires will start to squeel, a long time after you've left the light.  The
redline is 6300 I think and it feels comfortable when it gets there.  Not
hanging up and freewheeling with no power when it shifts.  Wide open
throttle and exhaust sound like high performance cars of yore, but with all
of the comforts of a luxury car.
Hope all of this helps.
Steve G.
>   Hi I'm in process of buying a 1995 Olds Aurora.
>   A few questions;
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>         '80 Suzuki GS1100E
>         '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
97Aurora - 10 May 2004 17:28 GMT
I have a 1997 Aurora and when I turn the key off and exit the vehicle the
park light stay on, flicker, flash, ect.
I have removed the park light switch and I leave the park lights on when I
get out of the car.  This solved the problem but I have no park/running
lights at night on the rear of the vehicle.  Has anyone else had this
problem?  
Zaphod Beeblebrox - 10 May 2004 22:46 GMT
In article
<a87814cd900f5a1db4f1426712a93b86@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>,

> I have a 1997 Aurora and when I turn the key off and exit the vehicle the
> park light stay on, flicker, flash, ect.
> I have removed the park light switch and I leave the park lights on when I
> get out of the car.  This solved the problem but I have no park/running
> lights at night on the rear of the vehicle.  Has anyone else had this
> problem?  

There's excessive grease on the multi-function switch (the stalk on the
left side of your steering column). A disassmbly + using contact cleaner
will keep this from happening (you should be hearing a relay clicking
under the dash when the lights are flashing). Or have the switch
replaced, but that's a 2 1/2+ hour job and $350+ for the part.
97Aurora - 11 May 2004 04:37 GMT
Thanks Zaphod! I think you have solved my problem! The part is $405 out of
Okla City and none of the salvage yards have any Auroras for used parts.
I am going to remove the part and clean it good.  If that doesn't work I
will bite the bullet and buy a new part.    
97Aurora - 11 May 2004 04:41 GMT
Thanks Zaphod! I think you have solved my problem! The part is $405 out of
Okla City and none of the salvage yards have any Auroras for used parts.
I am going to remove the part and clean it good.  If that doesn't work I
will bite the bullet and buy a new part.    
97Aurora - 10 May 2004 17:35 GMT
Have you had the problem of your park lights staying on after you turn off
the car?  I have a 1997 Aurora -love the car-but have the above mentioned
problem.

 
Steve G - 10 May 2004 18:54 GMT
Yes, but I'm not sure if there actually was a problem.  I had it happen a
couple of times where my lights stayed on, once all night and killed the
battery.  I am a mechanic by trade, tho I haven't worked in the field for
years, so I hunted down fuses, relays, wiring diagrams etc.  I couldn't find
the problem and suddenly they went out both times.  The last time it
happened I clearly noted exactly which lights were going on and using the
wiring diagram traced them back.  It led me back to the light switch on the
diagram.  What light switch?  I never turn the lights on, they are on a
sentinel system and go on and off by themselves.  I started to look around
the cockpit and what do you know, there is a light switch, the knob on the
turn signal lever.  I couldn't see it because the white lettering had all
worn off.  I did remember now seeing it when the car was newer, but had
forgotten all about it.  Turned the knob to off and away we went.  I guess I
had accidentlly turned them on when using the turn signals.  I can't say for
certain that's what it was the other two times because I didn't
intentionally turn the switch off, but I may have accidentlly turned them
off while searching around.  Stick your fuses back in and check the switch
if you haven't already.
Steve G.
> Have you had the problem of your park lights staying on after you turn off
> the car?  I have a 1997 Aurora -love the car-but have the above mentioned
> problem.
hyundaitech - 11 May 2004 03:15 GMT
I pretty much echo everything Steve G says.
Brent - 11 May 2004 14:39 GMT
Unfortunately, my '97 Aurora does not have factory heated seats. At least
the switches aren't anyways. I believe the factory switches would be on the
door. However, the previous owner installed some aftermarket switches in
another location. Don't know if the seats already had the heater built in
and it was just a matter of adding switches or if he added the heaters as
well.

Regarding the last production Oldsmobile's, I think they were Alero's rather
than Aurora's.

--Brent

> Where to start?  There are 2 series Aurora, the first 95 to 99 are all near
> identical. to the 95. Only one available engine and I think actually only 3
[quoted text clipped - 59 lines]
> >         '80 Suzuki GS1100E
> >         '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
just dave - 21 May 2004 17:04 GMT
  Thanks V much for sharing your knowledge.
 Got the Aurora on road (90 miles driven thus far). At about 30 miles,
a puddle of oil was detected after a 20 minute ride, odd. I was told by
the the previous owner [(expert), (boy farm mechanic, then diesel,
hydrolic, and auto "college")] that it took 9 quarts of oil. I (spurt)
checked the oil spec in drivers manual "7 quarts". I drained 2 + quarts
(out). Hope I've fixed the oil pushing past the seal(s)? Seems to be
dry, but I hesitate to give 'er the gun. Can leaky seal(s) re-seal? Car
has 100K on motor, 146K on body.
 Next prob (learning experience): The former, {expert} owner (Car was
he & his wife's personal car) said it tends to run hot in traffic due to
the poor design (no conventional grille). In stop & go traffic, ambient
temp: low 80's it seems to run at ~220 degrees. Well I, (spurt),
determined with (a littl' help from my) friends that the passengers side
radiator fan does NOT come on at 221 degrees, or when A/C is activated!
But, the Drivers side fan does seem seems to come on & off normally.
I bought the Coolant Temp Sensor at Autozone $9.99. They gave me a print
out telling where sensor is located -- Drivers side, rear engine area,
mounted on intake manifold. And test procedures. Haven't tried it yet.
Will keep Y'all posted.
  Do Y'all think I'm on the right track?           Could running car at
~230 +/- degrees cause harm? If so what should I look for?     Lucky I
got the 'Rory just before the hot season here in the Hudson Valley, NY
 Again THANKS V Much!, --- Dave
        1950 Studerbaker "Champion"
                         'Bullet
Nose'
         '67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler
         '80 Suzuki GS1100E
         '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Brent - 26 May 2004 14:35 GMT
Dave,

Your car definitely should only hold 7 quarts. You may want to try some stop
leak for oil if you see the leak again. Regarding temp, my Aurora runs at
about 219 degrees in traffic. I don't think it is anything to worry about
unless you are getting up into the red temp zone.

--Brent
'97 Aurora

  Thanks V much for sharing your knowledge.
 Got the Aurora on road (90 miles driven thus far). At about 30 miles,
a puddle of oil was detected after a 20 minute ride, odd. I was told by
the the previous owner [(expert), (boy farm mechanic, then diesel,
hydrolic, and auto "college")] that it took 9 quarts of oil. I (spurt)
checked the oil spec in drivers manual "7 quarts". I drained 2 + quarts
(out). Hope I've fixed the oil pushing past the seal(s)? Seems to be
dry, but I hesitate to give 'er the gun. Can leaky seal(s) re-seal? Car
has 100K on motor, 146K on body.
 Next prob (learning experience): The former, {expert} owner (Car was
he & his wife's personal car) said it tends to run hot in traffic due to
the poor design (no conventional grille). In stop & go traffic, ambient
temp: low 80's it seems to run at ~220 degrees. Well I, (spurt),
determined with (a littl' help from my) friends that the passengers side
radiator fan does NOT come on at 221 degrees, or when A/C is activated!
But, the Drivers side fan does seem seems to come on & off normally.
I bought the Coolant Temp Sensor at Autozone $9.99. They gave me a print
out telling where sensor is located -- Drivers side, rear engine area,
mounted on intake manifold. And test procedures. Haven't tried it yet.
Will keep Y'all posted.
  Do Y'all think I'm on the right track?           Could running car at
~230 +/- degrees cause harm? If so what should I look for?     Lucky I
got the 'Rory just before the hot season here in the Hudson Valley, NY
 Again THANKS V Much!, --- Dave
        1950 Studerbaker "Champion"
'Bullet
Nose'
'67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler
'80 Suzuki GS1100E
'82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Steve G - 27 May 2004 03:37 GMT
My 96 holds 8.5 litres, which is 9 US quarts,  but go by the stick, not what
you think it should hold.  My temp wanders up over the 100 (degrees C)
routinely.  Like Brent, I don't worry about it.  I wouldn't put any kind of
"liquid leak repair" for fear of what else it might plug up.  Early
Northstars are notorious for leaks between the crankcase halves.  $6 in
parts about $1800 in labor to repair.  I've also had an engine oil cooler
hose leak, one of the 2 that run from the oil filter mount to the rad.
About $70 retail for the hose here in Canada.  I do all my own repairs, but
about an hour job to replace it.
Steve G.
> Dave,
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> '80 Suzuki GS1100E
> '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
 
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