Car Forum / Oldsmobile Cars / May 2004
Aurora Questions
|
|
Thread rating:  |
just dave - 10 May 2004 05:23 GMT Hi I'm in process of buying a 1995 Olds Aurora. A few questions; Were there many changes between the first year 1995, (is '95 the first year)?, and last 2004?, ? Mine has 4.0 Liter, are there other motors? Better worse? Weaknessess & strengths for Aurora in general, & my year specifically? I see Olds finally stoped production a week or 2 ago (May 2004). Did I hear correctly that the last 500 were Auroras? To reiterate; How different is the 1995 from the 2004? Thanks Very Much, --- Dave Please post here or email me. 1950 Studerbaker "Champion" 'Bullet Nose' '67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler '80 Suzuki GS1100E '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Steve G - 10 May 2004 14:26 GMT Where to start? There are 2 series Aurora, the first 95 to 99 are all near identical. to the 95. Only one available engine and I think actually only 3 available options, sunroof, chromed alum wheels and an Autobahn gear ratio package. Lots of standard features, heated power seats both sides with lumbar controls, leather. All are powered by the 4.0 version of the cadillac Northstar engine. The second series is 01 to 04 (there was no 2000 Aurora) is a complete redesign, smaller body and far less distinctive. Hard to tell it from a Maxima or Altima, or even a late model Taurus. Yech. In this series there were fewer standard features, more options. Heated seats no longer standard, power on pass side an option etc. Now came standard with a 3.5 v-6 "Shortstar", a Northstar with 2 cyl. lopped off. 4.0 now an option. I have a 96 and tho I love the drive and looks it's been the biggest piece of sh.t I've ever owned and I've owned a lot of cars. The Northstar is a very sophisticated engine and superior design, uses a split crankcase with the crankshaft mounted between the crankcase halves for a vastly superior lower end, something cadillac had lacked for the previous 12 years. Unfortunately 95-96 Northstars were prone to an oil leak between the case halves, corrected in later models. About a $6 dollar gasket and almost $2000 in labor. I've had numerous electrical faults, the oil level indicater has never functioned properly. Intermittant high idle that's been impossible to diagnose. Premature rusting below the gas door due to a leaking body assembly gasket (requires long drawn out explanatin), problems with AC, seat controls, window controls, trans overhauled at less than 80,000 km., (50,000mi), lifters failed in the front head only, and a host of other problems.
But, as I said earlier, a hoot to drive once you figure out how. It's real old fashioned performance, poor low rpm power because of the camshaft design but really comes on over 3500 rpm. Will walk a stock 5.0 mustang from a light but has to catch him after the first few feet. By learning to drive it I meant you have to drive it like you're mad at it. There's a button on the shifter labeled norm and power. My is set to power all the time. What that does is put the trans shifts a little higher up, into the power band. You have to keep the rpm up to have available power at your toe. If you stand on the pedal from a dead stop it will move away from the stop okay, but as the tach hits about 3500 - 4000 it will really start to pull and the tires will start to squeel, a long time after you've left the light. The redline is 6300 I think and it feels comfortable when it gets there. Not hanging up and freewheeling with no power when it shifts. Wide open throttle and exhaust sound like high performance cars of yore, but with all of the comforts of a luxury car. Hope all of this helps. Steve G.
> Hi I'm in process of buying a 1995 Olds Aurora. > A few questions; [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > '80 Suzuki GS1100E > '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo 97Aurora - 10 May 2004 17:28 GMT I have a 1997 Aurora and when I turn the key off and exit the vehicle the park light stay on, flicker, flash, ect. I have removed the park light switch and I leave the park lights on when I get out of the car. This solved the problem but I have no park/running lights at night on the rear of the vehicle. Has anyone else had this problem?
Zaphod Beeblebrox - 10 May 2004 22:46 GMT In article <a87814cd900f5a1db4f1426712a93b86@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>,
> I have a 1997 Aurora and when I turn the key off and exit the vehicle the > park light stay on, flicker, flash, ect. > I have removed the park light switch and I leave the park lights on when I > get out of the car. This solved the problem but I have no park/running > lights at night on the rear of the vehicle. Has anyone else had this > problem? There's excessive grease on the multi-function switch (the stalk on the left side of your steering column). A disassmbly + using contact cleaner will keep this from happening (you should be hearing a relay clicking under the dash when the lights are flashing). Or have the switch replaced, but that's a 2 1/2+ hour job and $350+ for the part.
97Aurora - 11 May 2004 04:37 GMT Thanks Zaphod! I think you have solved my problem! The part is $405 out of Okla City and none of the salvage yards have any Auroras for used parts. I am going to remove the part and clean it good. If that doesn't work I will bite the bullet and buy a new part.
97Aurora - 11 May 2004 04:41 GMT Thanks Zaphod! I think you have solved my problem! The part is $405 out of Okla City and none of the salvage yards have any Auroras for used parts. I am going to remove the part and clean it good. If that doesn't work I will bite the bullet and buy a new part.
97Aurora - 10 May 2004 17:35 GMT Have you had the problem of your park lights staying on after you turn off the car? I have a 1997 Aurora -love the car-but have the above mentioned problem.
Steve G - 10 May 2004 18:54 GMT Yes, but I'm not sure if there actually was a problem. I had it happen a couple of times where my lights stayed on, once all night and killed the battery. I am a mechanic by trade, tho I haven't worked in the field for years, so I hunted down fuses, relays, wiring diagrams etc. I couldn't find the problem and suddenly they went out both times. The last time it happened I clearly noted exactly which lights were going on and using the wiring diagram traced them back. It led me back to the light switch on the diagram. What light switch? I never turn the lights on, they are on a sentinel system and go on and off by themselves. I started to look around the cockpit and what do you know, there is a light switch, the knob on the turn signal lever. I couldn't see it because the white lettering had all worn off. I did remember now seeing it when the car was newer, but had forgotten all about it. Turned the knob to off and away we went. I guess I had accidentlly turned them on when using the turn signals. I can't say for certain that's what it was the other two times because I didn't intentionally turn the switch off, but I may have accidentlly turned them off while searching around. Stick your fuses back in and check the switch if you haven't already. Steve G.
> Have you had the problem of your park lights staying on after you turn off > the car? I have a 1997 Aurora -love the car-but have the above mentioned > problem. hyundaitech - 11 May 2004 03:15 GMT I pretty much echo everything Steve G says.
Brent - 11 May 2004 14:39 GMT Unfortunately, my '97 Aurora does not have factory heated seats. At least the switches aren't anyways. I believe the factory switches would be on the door. However, the previous owner installed some aftermarket switches in another location. Don't know if the seats already had the heater built in and it was just a matter of adding switches or if he added the heaters as well.
Regarding the last production Oldsmobile's, I think they were Alero's rather than Aurora's.
--Brent
> Where to start? There are 2 series Aurora, the first 95 to 99 are all near > identical. to the 95. Only one available engine and I think actually only 3 [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > > '80 Suzuki GS1100E > > '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo just dave - 21 May 2004 17:04 GMT Thanks V much for sharing your knowledge. Got the Aurora on road (90 miles driven thus far). At about 30 miles, a puddle of oil was detected after a 20 minute ride, odd. I was told by the the previous owner [(expert), (boy farm mechanic, then diesel, hydrolic, and auto "college")] that it took 9 quarts of oil. I (spurt) checked the oil spec in drivers manual "7 quarts". I drained 2 + quarts (out). Hope I've fixed the oil pushing past the seal(s)? Seems to be dry, but I hesitate to give 'er the gun. Can leaky seal(s) re-seal? Car has 100K on motor, 146K on body. Next prob (learning experience): The former, {expert} owner (Car was he & his wife's personal car) said it tends to run hot in traffic due to the poor design (no conventional grille). In stop & go traffic, ambient temp: low 80's it seems to run at ~220 degrees. Well I, (spurt), determined with (a littl' help from my) friends that the passengers side radiator fan does NOT come on at 221 degrees, or when A/C is activated! But, the Drivers side fan does seem seems to come on & off normally. I bought the Coolant Temp Sensor at Autozone $9.99. They gave me a print out telling where sensor is located -- Drivers side, rear engine area, mounted on intake manifold. And test procedures. Haven't tried it yet. Will keep Y'all posted. Do Y'all think I'm on the right track? Could running car at ~230 +/- degrees cause harm? If so what should I look for? Lucky I got the 'Rory just before the hot season here in the Hudson Valley, NY Again THANKS V Much!, --- Dave 1950 Studerbaker "Champion" 'Bullet Nose' '67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler '80 Suzuki GS1100E '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Brent - 26 May 2004 14:35 GMT Dave,
Your car definitely should only hold 7 quarts. You may want to try some stop leak for oil if you see the leak again. Regarding temp, my Aurora runs at about 219 degrees in traffic. I don't think it is anything to worry about unless you are getting up into the red temp zone.
--Brent '97 Aurora
Thanks V much for sharing your knowledge. Got the Aurora on road (90 miles driven thus far). At about 30 miles, a puddle of oil was detected after a 20 minute ride, odd. I was told by the the previous owner [(expert), (boy farm mechanic, then diesel, hydrolic, and auto "college")] that it took 9 quarts of oil. I (spurt) checked the oil spec in drivers manual "7 quarts". I drained 2 + quarts (out). Hope I've fixed the oil pushing past the seal(s)? Seems to be dry, but I hesitate to give 'er the gun. Can leaky seal(s) re-seal? Car has 100K on motor, 146K on body. Next prob (learning experience): The former, {expert} owner (Car was he & his wife's personal car) said it tends to run hot in traffic due to the poor design (no conventional grille). In stop & go traffic, ambient temp: low 80's it seems to run at ~220 degrees. Well I, (spurt), determined with (a littl' help from my) friends that the passengers side radiator fan does NOT come on at 221 degrees, or when A/C is activated! But, the Drivers side fan does seem seems to come on & off normally. I bought the Coolant Temp Sensor at Autozone $9.99. They gave me a print out telling where sensor is located -- Drivers side, rear engine area, mounted on intake manifold. And test procedures. Haven't tried it yet. Will keep Y'all posted. Do Y'all think I'm on the right track? Could running car at ~230 +/- degrees cause harm? If so what should I look for? Lucky I got the 'Rory just before the hot season here in the Hudson Valley, NY Again THANKS V Much!, --- Dave 1950 Studerbaker "Champion" 'Bullet Nose' '67 Suzuki X-6 Hustler '80 Suzuki GS1100E '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
Steve G - 27 May 2004 03:37 GMT My 96 holds 8.5 litres, which is 9 US quarts, but go by the stick, not what you think it should hold. My temp wanders up over the 100 (degrees C) routinely. Like Brent, I don't worry about it. I wouldn't put any kind of "liquid leak repair" for fear of what else it might plug up. Early Northstars are notorious for leaks between the crankcase halves. $6 in parts about $1800 in labor to repair. I've also had an engine oil cooler hose leak, one of the 2 that run from the oil filter mount to the rad. About $70 retail for the hose here in Canada. I do all my own repairs, but about an hour job to replace it. Steve G.
> Dave, > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > '80 Suzuki GS1100E > '82 Yamaha Seca Turbo
|
|
|