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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / July 2005Pug 205 GTi 1.6
Hi Folks Hope someone can help. I have a Pug 205 GTi that I bought a month or so ago for very little money. It sounded fine on the way down but in the last couple of weeks it has started to sound like a tractor! It sounds like an engine that is low on oil, you know the sound!! But the oil level is about three quarters full on the dipstick and I'm reluctant to top it up as I don't know what oil the previous owner used. The oil is clean though. I will do an oil and filter change on it but if this doesn't clear the noise then is there anything else it could be? Noisy tappets wouldn't be this loud would they? The only other thing I can think of is it's the exhaust blowing from the header pipes but it's difficult to tell as it only makes the horrible noise when the engine is under any kind of load, ie, when you put ur foot down a little when cruising, it barely makes the noise when at idle or when reving it at standstill. Also, I have yet to get a Haynes or any kind of manual for it and, at the risk of sounding really thick here, there are a coule of gauges on the dash that I don't know what they are!! There are four small gauges around the speedo and rev counter, bottom left is fuel, botom right is water temp but I don't know what the top two ones are!! Can anyone elighten me? Many thanks for any responses. Gareth > Hi Folks > Hope someone can help. I have a Pug 205 GTi that I bought a month or [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > reluctant to top it up as I don't know what oil the previous owner > used. Why does it matter what he used ? You can freely mix different engine-oils if you want to top it up. Infact, you can freely mix almost every fluid your car uses, with the obvious exception of the brake fluid. >You can freely mix different engine-oils if you want to top it up. Well not really, some of the non-synethetics won’t mix properly with synthetics. Not a huge problem but not ideal either. >I have a Pug 205 GTi that I bought a month or so ago >for very little money It couldn’t hurt to change the oil anyway then as the old owner could well have used a bargain basement oil. Use a decent fully synthetic oil (obviously). Streltsky > >You can freely mix different engine-oils if you want to top it up. > Well not really, some of the non-synethetics won't mix properly with [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > well have used a bargain basement oil. Use a decent fully synthetic > oil (obviously). Careful here, the Pug/Citroen 1.9 doesn't like thin oils and a fully synthetic could start oil leaks from places you didn't know had oil. I'd go for a 10 or 15/40 semi synthetic, no thinner. -- r > Careful here, the Pug/Citroen 1.9 doesn't like thin oils Agreed. > and a fully > synthetic could start oil leaks from places you didn't know had oil. > I'd go for a 10 or 15/40 semi synthetic, no thinner. Well assuming the fully-synth was in the same grade (10 or 15/40) then it won't be any thinner than the semi-synth :) But as I've said, it's a waste of time. Engines are specifically designed to run on the oils specified in the handbook - you shouldn't ever deviate from these unless you have a very good reason. >> Careful here, the Pug/Citroen 1.9 doesn't like thin oils > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the handbook - you shouldn't ever deviate from these unless you have a > very good reason. I agree, but..... The more commonly available fully synths seem to be much thinner than the semis, I used a semi-synth in my BX16v as I live 3 minutes from a fast running dual carriageway and wanted the better cold running lubrication for the dash up to 60-70mph before the oil was up to temperature. Another point in these engines is to always use an oil filter with an anti-drain valve, the independent specialists always use the original Purflux filter as they are good and cheap as well... Try GSF. Horses for courses. -- R >Careful here, the Pug/Citroen 1.9 doesn’t like thin oils and a >fully >synthetic could start oil leaks from places you didn’t know had >oil. I’d go >for a 10 or 15/40 semi synthetic, no thinner. Most older Pug engines seem to leak, I thought they were fairly famous for it. I use fully synthetic in my 1.8D and although it does leak it’s only small amounts, not even worth refilling. I’m not fussed about a bit of oil on my engine, which is good because it’s been a while since I cleaned it and it’s got a fairly good coat on it at the moment :) I’d have thought that the benefits of using fully synthetic oils outweigh having an oily engine, maybe it’s just me :? Streltsky > I’d have thought that the benefits of using fully synthetic oils > outweigh having an oily engine, maybe it’s just me :? But there aren't any benefits - fully-synth just lasts longer between changes. There's no point using Fully Synth oil, unless A. You're leaving it in for 20,000 miles (a bad idea !) and/or B. Your owner's handbook tells you to. >But there aren’t any benefits - fully-synth just lasts longer >between >changes. You can find a description like this on any of the major motor oil manufacturers websites Among the many performance advantages that synthetic lubricants offer is their ability to remain stable at high temperatures (under which conventional oils can begin to breakdown) and remain fluid at very low temperatures (under which conventional oils begin to thicken). This provides optimum lubrication at extreme temperatures, reduces wear and tear, and makes for a cleaner, more efficient engine. Plus other advantages I will however retract what I said about mixing, according to the maufacturers all it does is "blend" the characteristics of the oils. Streltsky >> But there aren’t any benefits - fully-synth just lasts longer >> between [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > is their ability to remain stable at high temperatures (under which > conventional oils can begin to breakdown)... ...temperatures which are infact higher than your engine will reach. If this wasn't the case, then your engine would require fully-synth oil :) See what I'm getting at here ? If the features of fully synth were reuired for optimum operation of your engine, then that's what the manufacturer would specify - exactly like they do for the 210bhp V6 in my Coupe. > and remain fluid at very low > temperatures (under which conventional oils begin to thicken). Do we get "very low" temperatures in the UK ? >Streltsky wrote: >>> But there aren’t any benefits - fully-synth just lasts longer [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >offer >> is their ability to remain stable at high temperatures (under which >> conventional oils can begin to breakdown)... > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >Do we get "very low" temperatures in the UK ? Let me expalin my circumstances for choosing synth. I drive my car hard, therefore the engine will run at a higher temperature than it was built to. There is the fact that an engine will run slightly cooler with synthetics, plus I would be loosing the lighter fractions of a mineral oil at a higher rate than usual. Also I do lots of miles (15k in under 3 months recently) and I don’t always have the time and money to do an oil change when I need to. I use Castrol GTD, which is recommended for my engine (see castrol website). If I used a non-synthetic oil and drove the car the same way as I do now I would risk loosing the lighter fractions, especially if I didn’t have the time or money to change it, and therefore significantly increase the chances of causing engine wear. I used to use non or part synthetics but they were always slightly gritty when I changed the oil. It’s my personal choice. I understand why you chose non-synthetics but I’d rather not. Plus I know we don’t get cold weather, I’d just copied and pasted. Streltsky >> You can freely mix different engine-oils if you want to top it up. > > Well not really, some of the non-synethetics won’t mix properly with > synthetics. Not a huge problem but not ideal either. Where did you get that from ? http://www.shell.ca/code/products/commercial/lubricants/essentials/synthetic_non synthetic.html Unless you're using some *really* weird oils, then they can be mixed without issue. >> I have a Pug 205 GTi that I bought a month or so ago >> for very little money > > It couldn’t hurt to change the oil anyway then as the old owner could > well have used a bargain basement oil. Use a decent fully synthetic > oil (obviously)... ...if you want to waste your cash. Fully Synthetic oil is used in more modern engines, to extend the service intervals (2 years / 20k) - quite simply, it lasts longer between changes. You have nothing to gain by putting it in a yearly-service 205 ! If he's going to service his 205 every year like he should, then there's no reason whatsoever to use anything other than branded semi-synthetic oil, in the grade stated in the handbook. |
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