1. When starting to accelerate from a low speed up an incline in the
road (economy mode), and just when you'd expect a gearbox to hold that
gear for the climb, the auto gearbox in my car usually changes up to a
higher gear. This means the resulting acceleration is very poor. It is
irritating as it requires a substantial push on the accelerator to get
it to change down, resulting in the opposite - too much acceleration!
2. Still in economy mode: Often when smoothly accelerating away from
the traffic lights on a flat road, the gearbox reaches and stays in 3rd
gear, refusing to change up until I've exceeded the urban speed limit,
usually at 60-65kph. This is embarassing if I'm driving in traffic at
say 55kph, with the engine revving at over 2000rpm. It get looks from
others who probably think I don't know there's another gear or two!
Other times it behaves normally, apart from problem 1, that is.
Any ideas?
> 1. When starting to accelerate from a low speed up an incline in the
> road (economy mode), and just when you'd expect a gearbox to hold that
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> get it to change down, resulting in the opposite - too much
> acceleration!
Switch to Sport mode.
> 2. Still in economy mode: Often when smoothly accelerating away from
> the traffic lights on a flat road, the gearbox reaches and stays in
> 3rd gear, refusing to change up until I've exceeded the urban speed
> limit, usually at 60-65kph. This is embarassing if I'm driving in
> traffic at say 55kph, with the engine revving at over 2000rpm.
I don't understand ?
Your engine *should* be revving over 2000rpm most of the time. The less revs
you're using, the more strain is put on the big ends etc. when you
accelerate, and the more coke will build up inside your engine and exhaust.
Pootling around at 1500rpm all the time, isn't healthy for your car.
> It get
> looks from others who probably think I don't know there's another
> gear or two! Other times it behaves normally, apart from problem 1,
> that is.
> Any ideas?
It all sounds perfectly healthy to me :)
anvil - 29 Oct 2005 11:05 GMT
That's fine. I take your advice about coke build up etc. This is the
first car greater than 2000cc, and six cylinder motor I have
owned/driven so it could be that inexperience that is showing. I enjoy
it immensely nevertheless.
Nom - 31 Oct 2005 10:19 GMT
> That's fine. I take your advice about coke build up etc.
Also be aware that the lower your revs, the lower the oil-pressure (because
the pump isn't spinning as quickly).
Engines are designed to be revved - as long as it's not bouncing off the red
line all the time, then all is well :)
anvil - 01 Nov 2005 10:53 GMT
I actually meant over 3000rpm while driving in urban areas at around 55
- 60kph, not 2000rpm. I agree about working an engine and not labouring
it. I just wish it would start in sports mode if that's what it was in
when the ignition was turned off. It defaults to economy. Gee, I'm
being picky!
Nom - 01 Nov 2005 14:22 GMT
> I actually meant over 3000rpm while driving in urban areas at around
> 55 - 60kph, not 2000rpm. I agree about working an engine and not
> labouring it. I just wish it would start in sports mode if that's
> what it was in when the ignition was turned off. It defaults to
> economy. Gee, I'm being picky!
Well if you plan to leave it in sports mode all the time, you'll need to tow
a fuel-tanker behind you :)
For what it's worth, I've got the 210bhp XFX 3.0 lump in my 406 Coupe, but
with a manual box.
anvil - 02 Nov 2005 11:07 GMT
What model of tanker have you got in back?
Tonyh - 03 Nov 2005 06:36 GMT
"" wrote:
> > I actually meant over 3000rpm while driving in urban areas
> at around
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> 406 Coupe, but
> with a manual box.
Hi, I,m on the third Peugeot auto at the moment, (all 406 2000
onward)., and can state that in new condition they perform better
than Vauxhall’s Omega that I had. However as they get older (150,000
miles is about the limit I think), they do suffer from these gear
changing problems. I read up about the probs, and the answer seems to
be, changing the 2(?) sensors in the box, re-adjusting multi-switch,
clearing stored controller values. This costs about £350 from my local
auto agent. The valve box(?) sometimes needs replacing, about £450.
Complete box repair is £1500.
All the above info is derived from my own experience and info from box
repairers, and posts on internet.
T.
anvil - 03 Nov 2005 11:30 GMT
Since mine is under warranty, I think I will have a go! 130000km
Thanks for this Tonyh