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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / June 2006Cannot remove rear drum - 405 seized on?
My handbrake is very poor on this car so I wanted to check the condition of the pads etc on the rear wheels. Once I take the wheel off I cannot get the drum off. I have been able to apply a reasonable amount of leverage to remove it via a claw hammer and a brick to push against but it wont budge. I've tried whacking it with a hammer (but not too hard as i fear i will break the casting) and spraying wd40 in the stud holes in the hope that some gets between the drum and its mounting. Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is try reversing the car and pulling the handbrake on really hard in the hope this may move the drum relative to its mounting (I could try it forwards as well)but I'm sceptical this will work. Thanks for your help if you know how to do this. Ian I take it that you have let the hand brake off while trying to remove the drum, The best thing to do is get yourself a rubber or copper mallet and hit the drum all the round the edge again and again , it will come off sooner or later. I am not to sure about the 405 rear drum but i take it that they do not have the large posi head screw holding the drum on. Get rid of your claw hammer and dont spray wd40 near your brakes. GGJ > My handbrake is very poor on this car so I wanted to check the > condition of the pads etc on the rear wheels. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Ian DONT USE WD40 near your rear brakes.get behind the drum and tap it top and bottom that will remove it. good luck chris Addlestone surrey > My handbrake is very poor on this car so I wanted to check the > condition of the pads etc on the rear wheels. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Ian Now that you have used WD40, you will have to carry on and then carefully clean the brake linings with petrol to remove WD40, or the brakes will not work again. Though, to be honest, replacement brake shoues are quite cheap, so you would be well advised to fit new anyway. Just clean the inside of the drum carefully. AND WATCH THE DUST! However, the WD40 will help to release it. The bit which is catching is the centre where the drum fits over the hub. With the wheel off, and handbrake released, get a blowlamp into the drum and heat it up as quickly as you can, as evenly as you can too. This will have the effect of expanding the drum slightly, and then with a few blows with a large rubber mallet, you should be able to loosen it. Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I put the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 shouldn't have got near the inside of the drum / pads. I can't get to the back of the drum to hit it - there's a pressed metal disk in the way which encloses the pads I can get to the side to hit it though - I may give that a try. Regarding WATCH THE DUST - I assume it wont be asbestos - is it still dangerous? Regards Ian >Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I put >the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 shouldn't have [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Ian Hi I assume you poked a screwdriver through the hole in the backplate to let the auto adusting mech. Off ? if the drum is worn with a lip on the edge you'll never get it it off unless you realease the adjustment :) > >Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I put > >the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 shouldn't have [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > on the edge you'll never get it it off unless you realease the > adjustment :) Can u get a puller in there? >> >Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I put >> >the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 shouldn't have [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >> on the edge you'll never get it it off unless you realease the >> adjustment :) Basically, if the drum is worn at all (i.e. if you have done more than a few thousand miles since new drums were fitted) you will have a great deal of trouble getting the handbrake self-adjuster to come off sufficiently to let the drums move past the brake linings. Do not use any form of lubricant (especially WD40) anywhere near brakes. The only way I have managed this job is to first release the handbrake fully in the car, undo the handbrake cable adjuster from under the car completely, then release the brake self-adjuster through the holes in the backplates (Note that the Haynes manual is incorrect in describing this operation). A small torch helps to let you see the self-adjuster ratchet. Now use a couple of long screwdrivers to pry the drum away from the backplate on opposite sides. Then tap the drum carefully with a copper mallet (don't use a steel hammer or you'll likely crack the drum, and don't hit it too hard or you'll distort it making the brakes snatch) during which you should see the drum ease it's way off. Three or four hands helps! Be prepared to take a long time on this job (like a full day.....), and buy new brake shoes and adjuster mechanisms before you start because you'll need them. My favourite approach to this one job is to take the car to my local garage. Let them sweat a bit. HTH Richard > >> >Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I > >> >put the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > HTH > Richard And pay there prices, when he can have a go his self, if you take it to a garage it will be £38 per hour and thats before they have looked at it.and priced up for the parts, so give it a go your self before u give up. from chri Addlestone Surrey I've pulled quite a few drums off cars before and never had one seized like this. Normally a bit of leverage and a couple of taps with a hammer loosens the drum and then you can fight with it to pull the drum past the pads - even when the drum is well worn they normally pull off OK. The problem seems to be the drum is corroded onto the hub and will not move at all. The drum spins OK on the hub so I dont think the pads are so tight they are stopping me move the drum initially. I was thinking I could get another jack and apply some pressure that way which may do it. There's no way I can see to get a puller in - and I dont have a puller Soak it with plus gas....leave it for half an hour. If that doesn't work then get some gentle heat on the drum with a torch. > I've pulled quite a few drums off cars before and never had one seized > like this. Normally a bit of leverage and a couple of taps with a [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > There's no way I can see to get a puller in - and I dont have a puller Just stating the obvious, but you have undone the big hub nut in the centre of the drum? (you'll probably have to prize a little metal cover out of the way first) - That's assuming that the 405 is like most other peugeots in that the drum is held on by the hub nut - as the drum is also the hub as well on these cars James > Just stating the obvious, but you have undone the big hub nut in the > centre of the drum? (you'll probably have to prize a little metal cover [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > James Hi James, My 405 has a separate drum and is not part of the hub (1995 GLX 1.8i). I think it is only the smaller pugs that have the one piece drum/hubs that you mention. Bob I think it it 2 parts because a) there is a little screw to hold the drum in place (relative to the hub) before you put the wheel on / wheel nuts on b) the wheel nuts go through the drum (unthreaded) and into the hub (threaded) so these hold the drum on securely. Good thought though.... |
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