Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / December 2003

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

106 Diesel Injection Pump Solenoid

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Jonny Symonds - 10 Nov 2003 17:28 GMT
Hi,I am currently trying to replace the TUD3 diesel engine in a 1993
Peugeot 106 with a post-`98 TUD5 engine (to hopefully avoid the engine
liner problems which ruined the TUD3!)The TUD3 has a Lucas injection
pump, and the replacement a Bosch pump. Very little information is
given in the Haynes manual about the Bosch type pump. The Lucas pump
has a simple and obvious diesel stop solenoid with a single
connection. The bosch pump has a wire disappearing inside the pump
with three connections.I need to know if I can just connect the
original solenoid connection to one of these wires, and if so which
one. Given the phrase "anti-start" in the Haynes manual wiring diagram
on post-`97 models I`m concerned that the injection pump might have
some sort of internal electronic immobiliser which the car itself has
no parts to operate. If so, any way I can overcome this problem?Any
thoughts would be much appreciated,Yours,Jon Symondsjprs2@cam.ac.uk
Jonny Symonds - 04 Dec 2003 15:16 GMT
I have now solved this problem, and am posting the solution for
posterity. This is given here on the grounds that the information is
intended for legitimate use such as putting a newer engine in and old
car as I am attempting.

It seems that the injection pump does need a signal from an
immobiliser. However, it is possible to remove the electronics from
the pump, and underneath is an ordinary solenoid which can be actuated
directly as before.

You need to remove the metal cover under which the control wires
disappear on the top / end of the pump furthest from the cambelt. You
firstly need to remove the plate which mounts the back of the pump to
the engine and supports the fast idle cable sleeve. The immobliser
cover is slotted into this plate. Remove the mounting bolt from the
engine and the two allen screws and one torx screw which hold the
plate to the pump. There is however one fixing which cannot simply be
removed. There are two of these fixings which have perfectly round
heads and seem undoable. These heads are partly shielded by the
immobiliser cover which we are ultimately trying to remove. So
angle-grind the cover away from these fixings. The uppermost one
(which was completely surrounded by part of the cover) can have its
head cut off - it only holds the immobiliser cover on. The lower one
(with the hook-like surround from the cover) must be undone as it may
well hold part of the pump together, and must be replaced. It can be
undone with a hammer and chisel.  You can now pull the mounting plate
clear (you do not need to remove the fast idle cable).

There are two ordinary allen screws which can be removed from the
immobiliser cover or be cut off. Now for the tricky part. If you look
on the side of the cover facing the engine you'll see a raised part
with a hole in it. Sprung into this hole is a slotted hollow tube.
This pipe (deliberately) prevents the cover being removed as it
catches on an adjustment screw on the main pump. Try and pull the tube
out, but I failed to manage this as there is nothing to get hold of. I
removed it by angle grinding along the top of the cover along the
length of the tube (it is about 2 cm long) and prised it out that way,
after closing the tube up with a chisel to release the tension.

The the cover should slide off in the direction away from the cam
belt. There is just one wire which leads to the solenoid underneath.

It took me 4 hours in the end (and this was with the engine out).
Congrats to Bosch for making a pretty damn tamper proof system!

Thanks to Bosch and a friend at Peugeot for the tip-off that there was
a solenoid under that cover. The method of removal is my own work!

I am also pleased to say that the 1.5 engine seems to fit well in the
old car.

Jon Symonds

> Hi,I am currently trying to replace the TUD3 diesel engine in a 1993
> Peugeot 106 with a post-`98 TUD5 engine (to hopefully avoid the engine
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> no parts to operate. If so, any way I can overcome this problem?Any
> thoughts would be much appreciated,Yours,Jon Symondsjprs2@cam.ac.uk
pep - 05 Dec 2003 14:11 GMT
CAN YOU JUST CUT THE COVER WITHOUT UNDOING THE BOLTS AND THEN NOT REPLACE THE COVER? MY ENGINE IS STILL IN THE CAR..HOPE YOU CAN HELP.....PEP
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.