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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / February 2007406 window motor/reg fitting.
I'm told my drivers side window motor/regulator needs replacing and have been quoted £250+ for the job including parts. (It looks like I can get hold of one from the scrappys for less than fifty quid.) I'm wondering if this is a DIY job? and particularly how the door trim comes off to get to it? (So that I can get it back on properly :-) cheers. jim.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > I'm told my drivers side window motor/regulator needs replacing and have > been quoted £250+ for the job including parts. > (It looks like I can get hold of one from the scrappys for less than fifty > quid.) > I'm wondering if this is a DIY job? and particularly how the door trim > comes off to get to it? (So that I can get it back on properly :-) You don't say why it needs replacing. I mention this because there are problems that arise with the window that can be fixed without replacing stuff (I had two different problems which were both easily remedied from advice received on this group). SignatureKeith Willcocks (If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!) >> I'm told my drivers side window motor/regulator needs replacing and have >> been quoted £250+ for the job including parts. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > stuff (I had two different problems which were both easily remedied from > advice received on this group). Hiya Keith. It'd been parked up a couple of days under a tree, and the glass was pretty jammed up when I tried it. It just quietly gave up working. I checked all the fuses, flicked the switch a few times, kicked all the tyres and then took it to an auto electrician who charged me thirty odd quid to tell me it needed a new motor/regulator. If you have any other ideas, I'll give them a try, but what I wanted to do was take the panel off and put a meter on the motor myself before shelling out on a scrap yard replacement. I've had less than great success removing door panels in the past, I used to break/lose clips etc (donkeys years ago) and wondered if anyone on here could give me a clue to success with this one. Cheers jim. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> I'm told my drivers side window motor/regulator needs replacing and have >> been quoted £250+ for the job including parts. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > stuff (I had two different problems which were both easily remedied from > advice received on this group). Could you give a pointer to those problems/remedies please, as my 406 passenger window also refuses to budge. >>> I'm told my drivers side window motor/regulator needs replacing and have >>> been quoted £250+ for the job including parts. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Could you give a pointer to those problems/remedies please, as my 406 > passenger window also refuses to budge. I had two problems. The first was the window closing on automatic and suddenly reversing before it reached the fully closed position. This is apparently quite common and is caused by the window "forgetting" where the top is. To fix it you have to persevere until you can get it to go to the top and then hold the button down for a further 5 - 10 seconds (you should hear a click) which resets the memory. The other problem was where the window jammed and, after a lot of button pressing could only be induced to close by repeated pressing of the button which made it close in half inch jumps. The cure for this one was to spray Silicone Lubricant into the window guides. Regrettably it is unlikely that either of these fixes will help a totally stationary window although you never do know. Certainly dry/swollen guides could account for a stationary window. SignatureKeith Willcocks (If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!) > I had two problems. The first was the window closing on automatic and > suddenly reversing before it reached the fully closed position. This is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > fixes will help a totally stationary window although you never do know. > Certainly dry/swollen guides could account for a stationary window. Thank you. > I had two problems. The first was the window closing on automatic and > suddenly reversing before it reached the fully closed position. This is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > fixes will help a totally stationary window although you never do know. > Certainly dry/swollen guides could account for a stationary window. Ok Keith cheers. But how do you get the door trim off? SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> I had two problems. The first was the window closing on automatic and >> suddenly reversing before it reached the fully closed position. This is [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Ok Keith cheers. But how do you get the door trim off? Regrettably I didn't have to. I lubed the window guides with the window down and then, by raising and lowering it I spread the lubricant to the lower sections. However a certain book gives the following: Front door I Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Carefully unclip the exterior mirror inner trim panel from the front of the door. On models with manually-adjusted mirrors, remove the rubber gaiter from the adjustment handle prior to unclipping the trim panel. 3 Working as described in Chapter 12, Section 4 (see below), remove the switch(es) from the door armrest and also remove the loudspeaker from the door. 4 Carefully prise the door opening handle surround from the door interior trim panel. 5 Prise out the trim retaining screw cover from the lower rear corner of the trim panel, then slacken and remove the retaining screw . 6 Prise out the trim retaining screw cover from the upper front corner of the trim panel,then slacken and remove the retaining screw 7 Where fitted, unclip the door open warning light from the lower part of the door trim under an the armrest. 8 Make a final check that all the retaining screws have been removed, then carefully unclip the base of the trim panel from the door and manoeuvre it upwards and out of position. As the panel is removed, free the wiring harness noting its correct routing. Front Door Switches Note: The switches cannot be removed separately and come as a complete assembly. 16 Prise out the trim retaining screw cover from out of the door grab handle in the armrest. Undo the retaining screw . 17 The switch panel assembly can then be carefully prised out of position and its wiring disconnected. 18 Refitting is the reverse of removal. SignatureKeith Willcocks (If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!) >>> I had two problems. The first was the window closing on automatic and >>> suddenly reversing before it reached the fully closed position. This [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > > 18 Refitting is the reverse of removal. I should have added that is for the face lift model (1999 on) if yours is earlier I have that book as well. Mine is a hybrid of the Mk1 and Mk11, hence both books. SignatureKeith Willcocks (If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!) > I should have added that is for the face lift model (1999 on) if yours is > earlier I have that book as well. Mine is a hybrid of the Mk1 and Mk11, > hence both books. Thanks Keith. I know I really should invest in a Haynes book! So far I haven't been a an avid DIY fan, but £250+ to get the window going again is pushing me in that direction. I asked my 'car tinkering' buddy if he thought it may be an easy job. He say's he's only done one, which took two of them all day and he wouldn't touch another unless he was on crack ;-) So it looks like something fun to try this summer. (Oh I'm slightly bemused by the fuse's inability to protect it whilst destroying a motor through a jammed window, and the possibility of exactly the same again next time the window's iced or crapped up........<grumble> <grouse> <whinge> ok. moan over) cheers. Jim. [To err is human. To Moo - Bovine] SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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