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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / September 2007Window regulator cable broken (Pug 306 1998)
Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound (manually) our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again and it closed but something didn't seem quite right. Tried to wind back down again and found winder felt a bit jammed, didn't move very well and window didn't move at all. I've now had the door panels off and found that the window regulator cable has snapped. Specifically, the one which enters the top of the regulator (which then arcs downwards into the door). This seems to be the one which pulls the window down. For a very poor photo see: <http://www.swampie.ukfsn.org/IMAGE_00032.jpg> Can anyone advise how I can fix this as cheaply as possible. I read one person saying Peugeot wanted £250 to fix a similar problem (electric windows though), and that the regulator inc motor + seals were £125. I understand that you have to buy everything together, regulator + cables, clips etc included. <http://groups.google.co.uk/group/alt.autos.peugeot/browse_thread/thread/2db05662 bf5ee956/63a68533ae20e613?hl=en&lnk=st&q=306+window+regulator&rnum=1#63a68533ae2 0e613> The end which snapped appears a bit rusty which suggests that's why the cable snapped. Is there any realistic chance of replacing the cable itself? It appears to just be like a bike brake cable style and I've seen this on eBay which might be of help: <http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-306-307-405-406-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-KIT_W0QQit emZ200154851690QQihZ010QQcategoryZ10376QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem> I'm also concerned that as the regulator isn't winding smoothly, I don't know whether the snapped cable was down to a broken regulator which caused the cable to snap - or whether the cable snapped and because of this the regulator isn't winding smoothly. Going to the cost and effort of fixing the cable only to find that the regulator itself is broken would be a waste of time. I'm aware that a breaker's might be a useful place to go for a replacement regulator etc (went with my dad a few times as a kid many years ago - but no idea if they're anything like the places they used to be) - but I don't know of any suitable places around the West Surrey area. I did manage to force the window to move down by pushing downwards on both sides of the glass. Getting the window back up then involved my lifting the glass up and then pulling the cable taught through the door panel and then taking up the slack by rotating the window handle. Finally, I'm a bit concerned about the window dropping suddenly whilst driving and either a.) being broken or b.) being unable to lift window back up again and unable to secure car. As we have a baby due imminently (few days late already!), we don't want us having any unnecessary issues with securing the car at the hospital etc. Any advice? Thanks D > Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound (manually) > our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again and it closed [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > + cables, clips etc included. > <http://groups.google.co.uk/group/alt.autos.peugeot/browse_thread/thread/2db05662 bf5ee956/63a68533ae20e613?hl=en&lnk=st&q=306+window+regulator&rnum=1#63a68533ae2 0e613> I had the problem described in the link above, but was able to repair the green piece of plastic (basically putting a small nut and bolt through it). A trip to the local dealer wanted to rip me off for a whole new regulator (+motor, etc). Plus they wanted to charge me an investigation fee - even though I took the car in with the door panel removed and the broken component in my hand! In the end all I needed was a small clip, which was under £1. <snip> > Finally, I'm a bit concerned about the window dropping suddenly whilst > driving and either a.) being broken or b.) being unable to lift window > back up again and unable to secure car. As we have a baby due > imminently (few days late already!), we don't want us having any > unnecessary issues with securing the car at the hospital etc. I'd suggest doing what I did, as a temporary security measure - stand a piece of wood (or two) inside the structure of the door, upon which the bottom of the glass can rest upon. That should keep the glass in the right place until you can fix the cable. It does make some tasks trickier though as winding down the window suddenly isn't an option! HTH, Darran >> Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound >> (manually) our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > bottom of the glass can rest upon. That should keep the glass in the > right place until you can fix the cable. That's a good idea - I'll have think about that. It does seem pretty secure now, and I have been able to wind the window down a bit (push down on window whilst turning handle). And winding back up sort of works, if you take the weight of the glass whilst doing it. It seems pretty safe now - but haven't tried slamming the door yet! > It does make some tasks trickier though as winding down the window > suddenly isn't an option! Yes, the first thing which came to mind was getting a ticket from a machine when entering a car park! > HTH, > Darran Thanks David > Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound (manually) > our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again and it closed [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > has snapped. Specifically, the one which enters the top of the regulator > (which then arcs downwards into the door). This seems to be Electric regulators for the 306 are £60 a side from GSF. I've bought manual ones for MK2 Golfs for £7 a side. The cheapest route if no factors does a regulator, is to get one from a scrappy. Make sure you seal the door up properly again after or you'll have problems with damp in the car. >> Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound >> (manually) our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > seal the door up properly again after or you'll have problems with damp > in the car. I tried GSF this morning but unfortunately they don't do manual ones - only electric. The local Peugeot dealer can do them for £45 + VAT, but don't have any in stock so would probably be Wednesday/Thursday. Euro Car Parts claim to have one ('genuine') in stock for about £45 so if they can get it to me tomorrow then I may go with that. I've not used any scrappys - does anyone know of one in the Guildford area? The only time I've been to one is when I was a kid - I remember cars stacked high which you sat in and removed the part you wanted and then bartered with the guy for a price. I can't imagine them being allowed now what with Health and Safety legislation! Still, great fun as a kit - although when it's raining, it was very muddy and wet! Thanks David > Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. There is a possibility that the Citroen ZX may use the same part, if that helps.  SignatureTunku "Caution : traces of irony and other metallic objects may be present in the above post" >> Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. > > There is a possibility that the Citroen ZX may use the same part, if that > helps. I'd put a quid on it. > Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound > (manually) our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Can anyone advise how I can fix this as cheaply as possible. > The end which snapped appears a bit rusty which suggests that's why > the cable snapped. Is there any realistic chance of replacing the > cable itself? It appears to just be like a bike brake cable style and > I've seen this on eBay which might be of help: It sounds as if it's just like the electric window regulators on most of this era of PSA car - yep, the wires rust and snap. There's two, one for up, one for down - and it sounds like it's your "down" one that's gone, so once it's up, it's up. DON'T use the winder more than necessary - the manky bits of wire will chew up the plastic guides and make repair more difficult. You've found e-Crofting's ebay sales of stainless wire replacement kits - I used 'em on my XM, and they work well. >> Peugeot 306, 1998 1.4l petrol, manual windows. Today I wound >> (manually) our driver's side window down fine, wound it back up again [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > You've found e-Crofting's ebay sales of stainless wire replacement kits > - I used 'em on my XM, and they work well. How involved is the replacement wire kits? Whilst it seems a nice and cheap way of fixing it, the thought of replacing the unit as a whole seems nice and straight forward. The repair kit has the same work with the added work of replacing the cable. I'm just wondering how you get the new cable into the winder (it appears to be a sealed plastic unit). Just push in and turn the handle? A new unit is about £53 - vs £14 for the wire kit. But if I can't get the wire fitted properly, then there's no chance of sealing the window shut before getting a full replacement. Having the full replacement option is less risky. Hmmm... decisions decisions. Had I not been in a bit of a rush, then I'd definitely go with the wire option. Hmmm Thanks David >> You've found e-Crofting's ebay sales of stainless wire replacement >> kits - I used 'em on my XM, and they work well. > How involved is the replacement wire kits? Whilst it seems a nice and > cheap way of fixing it, the thought of replacing the unit as a whole > seems nice and straight forward. The repair kit has the same work > with the added work of replacing the cable. Getting the damn thing out the door's the difficult bit. > I'm just wondering how you get the new cable into the winder (it > appears to be a sealed plastic unit). Just push in and turn the > handle? I've not done it on a 306, but on the XM, there was a central rivet to drill out and replace with a screw. > A new unit is about £53 - vs £14 for the wire kit. But if I can't get > the wire fitted properly, then there's no chance of sealing the window > shut before getting a full replacement. Having the full replacement > option is less risky. Indeed. The electric regulator for the XM was north of £200, though. > Hmmm... decisions decisions. Had I not been in a bit of a rush, then > I'd definitely go with the wire option. Hmmm Bear in mind that the new regulator will also have a mild steel cable which will rust and snap in exactly the same way... Buy both, repair the one that comes out at your leisure, then either sell it as a fixed one to somebody in the same boat as you, or keep it to put back in when the one you buy now snaps. The new one I put in the XM when I first got the car lasted about 4-5 yrs. The stainless I repaired it with should outlast the car. >>> You've found e-Crofting's ebay sales of stainless wire replacement >>> kits - I used 'em on my XM, and they work well. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Getting the damn thing out the door's the difficult bit. I had wondered about that - the other thing I've not tried yet is removing the window glass. >> I'm just wondering how you get the new cable into the winder (it >> appears to be a sealed plastic unit). Just push in and turn the >> handle? > > I've not done it on a 306, but on the XM, there was a central rivet to > drill out and replace with a screw. That sounds right looking at the kit photo - it includes a single screw! >> A new unit is about £53 - vs £14 for the wire kit. But if I can't get >> the wire fitted properly, then there's no chance of sealing the window >> shut before getting a full replacement. Having the full replacement >> option is less risky. > > Indeed. The electric regulator for the XM was north of £200, though. Ouch... >> Hmmm... decisions decisions. Had I not been in a bit of a rush, then >> I'd definitely go with the wire option. Hmmm [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > car lasted about 4-5 yrs. The stainless I repaired it with should > outlast the car. The car is from 1998, so 9 years old - if it lasts that long again I'll be pleased! In fact, I wonder if I'll still have the car then. I'm happy to repair the old one in my leisure. Once I can get the old one out and see what the problem is, and how I could fix it myself, then I'll try. Considering there's 3 other windows on the car, I suspect they'll be the next ones to go, and knowing how to do it would be good. Euro Car Parts can get one in for my this afternoon so I've gone with that option - means I can try fixing it this evening. Thanks David >> Getting the damn thing out the door's the difficult bit. > I had wondered about that - the other thing I've not tried yet is > removing the window glass. You don't need to - at least, you don't on the XM... Just a bit of electrical tape round the top of the door to hold the glass out the way. >> Indeed. The electric regulator for the XM was north of £200, though. > Ouch... Quite. >> The new one I put in the XM when I first got the car lasted about 4-5 >> yrs. The stainless I repaired it with should outlast the car. > The car is from 1998, so 9 years old - if it lasts that long again > I'll be pleased! In fact, I wonder if I'll still have the car then. And you know it's not already been done once...? >>> Getting the damn thing out the door's the difficult bit. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > You don't need to - at least, you don't on the XM... Just a bit of > electrical tape round the top of the door to hold the glass out the way. I'll have to try that - I assumed the glass was clipped to the runner, but I'll have a look. Helpful if it isn't! >>> Indeed. The electric regulator for the XM was north of £200, though. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > And you know it's not already been done once...? Good point. We had the car since 2001, so any repair is at least 6 years old. David >>> I had wondered about that - the other thing I've not tried yet is >>> removing the window glass. >> You don't need to - at least, you don't on the XM... Just a bit of >> electrical tape round the top of the door to hold the glass out the >> way. > I'll have to try that - I assumed the glass was clipped to the runner, > but I'll have a look. Helpful if it isn't! Again, dunno about the 306 specifically, but with the XM, once the window was part way down, you could see a white plastic clip which held the regulator to a hole in the glass. Unclip that, and the glass can be pulled back up to the top - it's then out of the way, so out with the g-clamp or electrical tape to hold it there. >>>> I had wondered about that - the other thing I've not tried yet is >>>> removing the window glass. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > back up to the top - it's then out of the way, so out with the g-clamp or > electrical tape to hold it there. Well, I did the job last night. Took around 2 hours from getting tools out to putting everything away. Biggest chunk of time was spent trying to remove and then later refit the clip. The issue I had was that I couldn't see how the clip worked! The clip was on the other side of the glass, so I couldn't see it. The HBOL had a very different clip. It turned out that there was a metal spring clip (like an R clip, but both sides were the same) which was going through a rubber bung thing mounted to the glass. Remove the clip and you can remove the glass. Refitting was much more difficult as it appears there are only a few holes through the rubber bung to get the clip into, and you can't see where it's going. I think that I got it in correctly in the end! Getting the regulator assembly out was quite easy actually (drilling the rivets was slow though) - I didn't have any problem getting the unit out the hole in the door. The old regulator has a small crack at the edge of the inner face - so I might not be too bothered about fixing it - see what it's like once I have a good look at it. Thanks for the advice though - was very helpful in getting it done. Window isn't as smooth as it was before - don't know if it should have been greased at all? David
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