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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / October 2007306 BE3 transmission clutch lever
How do you get the locking pin out. Mine is threaded. I have tried winding on a 7 mm nut but the thread has stripped. Help. > How do you get the locking pin out. Mine is threaded. I have tried > winding on a 7 mm nut but the thread has stripped. Help. I've never had to remove the pin, or dismantle the lever mechanism. Why do you have to? > > winding on a 7 mm nut but the thread has stripped. Help. > > I've never had to remove the pin, or dismantle the lever mechanism. Why do > you have to? It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at Peugeot who says it need to rotate almost 90 degrees to disengage the forks from the bearing. I got the nut off and then tried rust dissolver and pulling/ twisting with mole grips. This didn't work so I tried heating with a blow torch. This didn't work either but now I think the upper plastic bearing will have melted. > It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at > Peugeot who says it need to rotate almost 90 degrees to disengage the > forks from the bearing. I got the nut off and then tried rust > dissolver and pulling/ twisting with mole grips. This didn't work so > I tried heating with a blow torch. This didn't work either but now I > think the upper plastic bearing will have melted. Don't know if they changed the design, but I did a clutch on an early 306 TD, and did not need to touch the lever. It moved enough as you pulled the box away. > > It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at > > Peugeot who says it need to rotate almost 90 degrees to disengage the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > TD, and did not need to touch the lever. It moved enough as you pulled the > box away. I think you could be correct Brian. I had to put it all back together again and take it to someone who tried to heat it up with OxyAcetylene but this failed and he had to drill / punch the pin out. We put in a tempory bolt to get me home. When I got it all apart again and managed to separate the gearbox, the shaft hardly rotated as the release bearing is only just caught on the very ends of the forks. It turned out that the friction plate was fine, the release bearing was fine, and there was slight wear on the cover plate fingers because it was all very dry. I replaced all 3 parts and the clutch appears to be slightly different. The Haynes manual says the BE3 is a pull type clutch but the release bearing pushes on the cover plate fingers (the cable pulls on the lever). At least GSF sold me the correct clutch kit. I have written this clutch change up as it took me around 50 hours to replace it. With the extra tools I had to buy, I still saved about ?125 over Mr Clutch. On Sep 29, 10:13 am, "Brian" <blecnos...@tesco.net> wrote: > > It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at > > Peugeot who says it need to rotate almost 90 degrees to disengage the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > TD, and did not need to touch the lever. It moved enough as you pulled the > box away. I think you could be correct Brian. I had to put it all back together again and take it to someone who tried to heat it up with OxyAcetylene but this failed and he had to drill / punch the pin out. We put in a tempory bolt to get me home. When I got it all apart again and managed to separate the gearbox, the shaft hardly rotated as the release bearing is only just caught on the very ends of the forks. It turned out that the friction plate was fine, the release bearing was fine, and there was slight wear on the cover plate fingers because it was all very dry. I replaced all 3 parts and the clutch appears to be slightly different. The Haynes manual says the BE3 is a pull type clutch but the release bearing pushes on the cover plate fingers (the cable pulls on the lever). At least GSF sold me the correct clutch kit. I have written this clutch change up as it took me around 50 hours to replace it. With the extra tools I had to buy, I still saved about £125 over Mr Clutch. The worst part is getting the gearbox back on. It never seems to want to line up properly for me. > On Sep 29, 10:13 am, "Brian" <blecnos...@tesco.net> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > The worst part is getting the gearbox back on. It never seems to want to > line up properly for me. I had no problem at all. I positioned the friction plate centrally by eye and the gearbox shaft just slid in first time. I am now in doubt if it is a BE3 transmission or a push type clutch. I have bought a cam belt but the Peugeot mechanic said you have to take the bottom pullry off and that is done up to some stupid lbft and loctited in. I don't think I can face it at the moment. I had no problem at all. I positioned the friction plate centrally by eye and the gearbox shaft just slid in first time. I am now in doubt if it is a BE3 transmission or a push type clutch. I have bought a cam belt but the Peugeot mechanic said you have to take the bottom pullry off and that is done up to some stupid lbft and loctited in. I don't think I can face it at the moment. I think when they refer to a pull type clutch, they are talking about how the lever is operated by the cable. On some, the inner pulls the lever, on some, the inner is fixed to a bracket, and the outer pushes the lever. Regarding the cam belt, which engine is it? I have only done belt changes on the XUD engines, and recently an HDI. Yes the crankshaft bolt can be very tight, I have ended up using a lever about 3 feet long. On the old 306 I did recently, I could not shift it at all, so I ended up breaking the lower cover at the bottom, and removing it. Then I was able to get the old belt off round the larger aux belt pulley. The lower cover went back on OK, and provided the two bolts are cone up, it stays in place even though it is broken. Consider changing the water pump while you have the belt off. |
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