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Car Forum / Peugeot Cars / November 2007

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Peugeot 306 (95) relays

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Rexx Magnus - 08 Nov 2007 12:21 GMT
I've recently bought a 1995 306 XTdt and am having a few problems
with it.

In trying to diagnose why the heating blower doesn't work, I'm
finding a few other things wrong with it, and until my haynes manual
arrives, I don't know why certain things are disconnected.

Firstly, there's a relay missing from the box under the bonnet, it's
the one on the left nearest the front (grey connector) - not sure
what that's supposed to do but it's totally missing. There are no
grey ones in the car itself to compare it to, so therefore don't
know what to replace it with.

Secondly, there are two cables plugged into the rubber panel on that
casing (that has no wiring in it - the plugs are red and black I
think, from memory - both wires are white), and two cables below
that are not connected to anything (blue and yellow). Should those
cables that are in the rubber panel be connected to the open
connectors instead?

One of the relays in the box (I think it's the second from the left)
has a wire spliced to the central pin and runs to the headlight.
Don't know why that's been done.

I can't pair the new key I bought to the alarm system as the master
key is switched off, and doesn't match the ignition keys. Doh!

Back to the heating problem, I'm suspecting that the resistor block
has blown, which is why the fan has been wired up direct to a switch
on the ignition. The rear heated windscreen works though - which
apparently is often connected to the blower circuitry.
Do the heating controls illuminate? If so, they're not lighting up.
I fiddled around with the back of it and found that the blower
controls were not connected, so I plugged it back in, but still no
joy - hence suspecting the resistors.

Two wires that hang down under the console near the heater had been
cut off, red and black - I think they're the power leads to the
heater, but connecting them to it still don't give power from the
controls. I haven't accessed the resistor block in order to change
it yet, so that could still be at fault. Is it easier to access it
from the cab, or from outside by taking off the covers?

Sorry for all the problems in my first post, but I'm desperate! :)
Rexx Magnus - 08 Nov 2007 13:41 GMT
> Back to the heating problem, I'm suspecting that the resistor
> block has blown, which is why the fan has been wired up direct to
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> change it yet, so that could still be at fault. Is it easier to
> access it from the cab, or from outside by taking off the covers?

Managed to find and remove the resistor block noted above. Inside
the opening above the flap (removing motor to reach it). Taking out
the top glove compartment, I was able to squeeze my hand in just far
enough to unplug the connector and rotate the block a quarter turn,
dropping it down into the blower.

One of the resistors fails continuity test (it's the actual resistor
rather than one of the coils) so I take this to be the cause of the
heater malfunction.

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harvestmouse - 09 Nov 2007 19:18 GMT
> > Back to the heating problem, I'm suspecting that the resistor
> > block has blown, which is why the fan has been wired up direct to
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

The resistor is not a resistor but a temperature sensitive fuse.  The
coils are cooled by air sucked over them by the motor blades.  If the
baffle closes when the fan blower is energised there will be no air
flow and the fuse will blow.  This happened to be because the bowden
cable to the baffle fell off.  I have been told that the fuse was
fitted because some cars caught fire.  The coil unit is less than ?10
from Peugeot.  I accessed my coil assembly from under the bonnet by
pulling the black plastic water protector out after getting the
windscreen trim off with the wpiers in mid position.
I had another fault with the blower circuit which was that the relay
above the drivers legs had melted causing a bad connection from the
relay to the holder.  Again I replaced the relay, after levering out
with a jemmy, which was less than ?10 from Peugeot.
Rexx Magnus - 12 Nov 2007 11:36 GMT
> The resistor is not a resistor but a temperature sensitive fuse.
> The coils are cooled by air sucked over them by the motor blades.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> relay, after levering out with a jemmy, which was less than œ10
> from Peugeot.

I had a water leak when it rained, whilst I had the blower motor out
- I think this must have contributed to it. The old blower motor was
squeaky, and there was some corrosion on the old resistor block. It
looks like the cable for the flap is bent, so it won't close (or
open properly) - so I've opted to leave it in the open position for
now.
The water cover wasn't on properly, part of it was folded under (on
the top side) so water was running down into the cab through the
inlet. Fixed that now. The heating doesn't get very hot still, so I
suspect a blocked matrix (fun to fix!)

I also found there wasn't a thermostat, only half of it was in the
thermostat housing, so I replaced it with a new one. At least the
engine gets up to temperature now.
 
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