>> Hello all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Untill the rebuild, disconnect the wiring for the lock up.
...or even wire a KEYED lockup switch under your dash--keyed so no one
but you could use it--they may forget to 'switch it off' when they approach
a stop sign!!! BTW, with the 4.11's, have you considered a built 700R4
od--70% of 4.11 would give you a road gear of 2.78--w/o the lockup engaged?
Would do wonders for cruising rpm's plus a boost in fuel economy on the hwy.
My neighbor bought one last year for his custom '55 Studebaker--t/c et al &
guaranteed for 12 months for a grand. Sure shifts strong. Just my 2-cents.
s
Steve Zissou - 18 Mar 2006 09:43 GMT
>>> Hello all,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> Studebaker--t/c et al & guaranteed for 12 months for a grand. Sure shifts
> strong. Just my 2-cents. s
Thanks for the input, sorry it took me a while to get back.
Disconnecting the wire does not alleviate the problem, it does the same
thing connected or not. I also purchased a B&M lockup controller months ago
thinking this would help. This gizmo is supposed to let you control the
lockup of the converter based on the speed of the car. There is a
transducer that you put inline with your speedometer cable. But, the lockup
is not controlled externally due to the malfunction inside, whatever it may
be. It's the solenoid or the converter, and external efforts have failed to
do anything to help.
Yes, I have considered a 700R4 and am still thinking about it. But we're
talking twice as many beans...which may be feasible. My research up to this
point has told me to definitely trash the lockup 350C. They are generally
not used for performance applications. 700R4's have been worked over and
are up to the task. Now my choice is between a regular 350 TH or the 700R4.
Fortunately, I don't drive this thing much so I have the luxury of thinking
about it for a while.