Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Pontiac / Pontiac Firebird / May 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

firebird starts then stalls

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
jeff - 21 May 2004 05:41 GMT
89 Firebird 6cyl.
Stepped on gas at red light (now turned green) and it died.
Pushed it parking lot and this is the story:
Turn the key and it starts and then stalls right out. Try again, it
starts then stalls right out. After 2 or 3 of these it wont even
sttempt to start. Wait 5 mintues, try again, same thing again.
Have spark, changed coil, cap, rotor and module.
Disconnected fuel line and pumped about 10 to 12 oz fo fuel in 15
seconds. The book says it should be 16 oz. IT was hard to measure in a
20 oz container.

Does this sound like a fuel problem or electrical?
Thanks
Jeff
Bruce Chang - 21 May 2004 12:17 GMT
> 89 Firebird 6cyl.
> Stepped on gas at red light (now turned green) and it died.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Thanks
> Jeff

I know last time that happened to me, it was the MAF sensor.  Make sure you
don't have any codes.

-Bruce
jeff - 21 May 2004 12:26 GMT
Thanks Bruce
The only code we have is for the O2 sensor.
I am assuming (for lack of a better term) that this sensor would be
irrelevant in this case. Your opinion on this is also apprefciated.
Jeff

>> 89 Firebird 6cyl.
>> Stepped on gas at red light (now turned green) and it died.
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>-Bruce
Bigjfig - 22 May 2004 19:15 GMT
>Subject: Re: firebird starts then stalls
>From: jeff jeff31162@hotmail.com
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>
>>-Bruce

The sensor is reading whatever the computer is telling it in a way.

Start with the basics. Check your fuel pressure with a reliable hand held
gauge. Check for spark (constant).

Yes a bad MAF or relay will stall it right out. Tap on the end of the MAF with
the handle of a screwdriver. A lot of those early hot wire sensors were bad
about things getting loose inside.

Take a look at the MAF and gently clean it with electronics spray to see if
that helps things out a bit. A cheap air filter will cause it to get gummed up.
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director
'80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig.
'79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig
'84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going....
'80 T/A project car...
Bruce Chang - 22 May 2004 22:40 GMT
> >Subject: Re: firebird starts then stalls
> >From: jeff jeff31162@hotmail.com
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going....
> '80 T/A project car...

You can also disconnect the MAF sensor and try to start it, it should start
but it will set the MAF code, I think it's a 33 or 34.  Anyhow, if
disconnecting the MAF sensor allows it to start, you have a good place to
start your diagnosis..

-Bruce
Hitman0187 - 24 May 2004 05:16 GMT
this is the one question that is damn near impossible to trouble shoot over the
net. I know i tried. Anyhow I changed all the same things you did with no
change in status. I just replaced my distributor and the problem was rectified.

All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....
jeff - 25 May 2004 03:43 GMT
>this is the one question that is damn near impossible to trouble shoot over the
>net. I know i tried. Anyhow I changed all the same things you did with no
>change in status. I just replaced my distributor and the problem was rectified.
>
>All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....

the entire distributer?

Anyway, it is starting to look like fuel pressure. Changing the filter
got it to start and sputter and spit and stall some. Pressure guage on
schroder valve reads zero, yet there is enough pressure to squirt fuel
into the air. I would have expected to get a reading of at least a few
psi. Guess we are gonna change the fuel pump OR, we are looking into
an external fuel pump so we don't have to take the entire rear-end
out. Anybody know anything about those?

Will keep you all updated

Jeff
Charles Bendig - 25 May 2004 04:10 GMT
> >this is the one question that is damn near impossible to trouble shoot over the
> >net. I know i tried. Anyhow I changed all the same things you did with no
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Jeff

   Low fuel pressure can be more then a clogged  fuel filter of a bad fuel
pump. It could be clogged or  restricted lines.

   Asfor an externial pump, your better just replacing the intank pump.
Charles
jeff - 29 May 2004 07:23 GMT
Well, we installed an external fuel pump and it runs like a champ!
Hope it holds up.

Thanks for all the input.
Jeff

>>this is the one question that is damn near impossible to trouble shoot over the
>>net. I know i tried. Anyhow I changed all the same things you did with no
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Jeff
Charles Bendig - 25 May 2004 13:50 GMT
> this is the one question that is damn near impossible to trouble shoot over the
> net. I know i tried. Anyhow I changed all the same things you did with no
> change in status. I just replaced my distributor and the problem was rectified.
>
> All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....

   If you had to change the distributor, after changing the module, the
coild, cap & rotor.  Then the magnets were bad. I see this more in 88 to 95
G vans and C/K trucks. I recently had  that problem with a 1990 C1500 W/T
with a 305 ((5.0L)). The truck had sat for a few years.

   We had spark in from the coil & fuel  to the injectors after changing
modules. We changed cap and rotor  since the were wasted. Still no spark,
tore it  down and  swapped  the  magnets.  Dropped it back in and had spark.
$50 in parts to get a $300 truck running. Another  $175 in parts to get it
road worthy.
Charles
When you buy 6 dead trucks from a company at once you get a much better
price.
Hitman0187 - 26 May 2004 04:29 GMT
you are exactly correct, the magnet was shot, i don't believe i left that out
of my post. anyway if you absolutly have to cut the rear deck out and change
the pump with the tank still up. its a butcher job but it is faster and easier
All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.