Here are several sections to describe how I was able to achieve a fix
for a *presumed* faulty ignition switch.  Bear in mind that as time
wore on my attempts got more wild and were less documented, so don't
crucify me if some of this seems completely hoaky, I'm just passin' on
what worked in this case.

THE SHORT VERSION
I had hard wired the correct resistance between the Yellow and Black
wires but this failed to bypass Passlock 1.  Neil had suggested that
(via/because of a Hall effect switch) that the resistance was to be
put in to play at specific points during the ignition sequence:
Run-Crank-Run.  Accepting this I attempted a simple relay circuit as
I've used in the past to bypass Passlock systems which, as you've read
above, failed.  That was yesterday.  Today I hit it again and found
that I'm an idiot, I had wired the relay so that the resistance was
only in play during crank, not during run.  Switching the connections
on the relay so that the resistance was put into play *only* when the
switch was in the run position fixed the car.  It ran immediately (so,
no 10 minute "reset" timer, no run-off-run-off-run BS then let it sit
15 minutes, it ran immediately when the right resistance was put in
the circuit at the right time.  I then broke the connection between
the Yellow wire and the resistance, effectively disconnecting any
connection to the Yellow wire which then illuminated the Theft light,
but the car kept running.  Subsequent attempts to start the vehicle
without the resistance/relay circuit are *successful*, with the only
holdup being that the Theft light stays on constantly.  A T-15, 6 or 8
screws, and a soldering iron later...no LED for the theft on the
instrument cluster PCB, voila!, no Theft light.  Yes, a shade-tree
hack, but I live in the sticks and I don't have to put up with city
traffic, so there!  <grin>  No resistors, no relay, the car starts
fine everytime.

THE DETAILS:
I had put the damned resistors in line with the black/yellow wires,
but I had powered the relay with the crank wire in such a way that the
relay applied the resistance *only* in the *crank* position of the
ignition switch.  Stupid mistake, no excuses, just stupid.  I noticed
my error today, which meant that yesterday, using a Pot. to try
resistances from 400 to 16,000 ohms was *completely wasted time*.  I
put the resistance in place today correctly (the crank wire flips a
relay *removing* the resistance from the circuit, but at rest, the
resistance is in place) and the car ran immediately, no reset time
(none of that "leave the key on, door open, hold your breath, kiss
your sister, and scratch your left earlobe BS").  While it was running
my buddy asked me if the car would keep running if I removed the
resistance to which I replied that it would (based on a similar test
on a Passlock II system I had worked on).  I *disconnected the yellow*
wire from the circuit, effectively leaving it open *while the car was
running*.  He then claimed that I might not have fixed the problem
because sometimes a successful start will be repeated several times
even though the theft system is not properly cleared (BS, I thought,
but I didn't challenge him).  However, I then remembered a post I saw
online (via Deja) about a possible bypass for Passlock I (and maybe
II); the process was thus, 1) start the car normally with the key, 2)
while the car was running, cut the yellow wire.  That's it.
Supposedly that completely disabled the Passlock system.  I
inadvertently affected that solution when I, to prove to my buddy that
I knew the car would keep running with out the resistance, removed the
connection to the brain-side of the yellow wire.  I proved it then
when, again to prove to my buddy that the car wouldn't start without
the resistance in place, started the car (to my chagrine (sp?))
without the resitance in place and *WITH THE YELLOW WIRE CUT AND NOT
CONNECTED TO ANYTHING* (which means that it could *not* have been
because the ignition switch worked correctly).  I had read several
sites (including the site that Neil had sent me a link to
(http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm)) and had seen instances of tying
the bulb-test wire to ground during specific moments of the ignition
sequence, and I had thought that might play a critical role in the
process, however, it did not make any difference in this application
as I have that wire untouched now and the car runs fine.

THE BACKROUND (for those who didn't read the whole post history)
1997 Pontiac Sunfire.  Stars.  Dies moments later.  Snap-On computer
indicates theft system/CMK & CRK (I think those were the codes)
undetected (those are the cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors).
Buddy replaces the computer, no improvement; car starts, dies.  Buddy
replaces the instrument cluster (which houses, at least in part, the
Passlock circuitry to check the resistance of the ignition switch).

THE (hopefully) REPRODUCIBLE PROCESS
Cutting into the *thin* yellow wire on the passenger-side of the
steering column, by the ignition switch (one of three; black, white,
yellow (search online for "bypass passlock I" or "bypass passlock II",
or visit the link that Neil has provided earlier in his post, or
quoted here in mine)) and measuring the resistance between the *cut*
end of the yellow wire on the switch-side to a bare, stripped spot on
the black wire, with the key in the Run position, yielded a particular
resistance.  Mimicing that resistance with resistors and placing it
between the computer/instrument cluster side of the yellow wire and
that bare patch on the black wire by using a relay controlled by the
*thick* yellow crank wire (on the driver's-side of the steering
column) such that the relay inacted the resistance at run, but *not*
crank, caused the vehicle to start properly.  While it was running,
breaking the connection from the yellow (thin) wire to the resistance
*seems* to have caused (corroborating another post online) the system
to permanently bypass the Passlock I system; subsequent starts neither
required the resistance/relay setup, NOR the yellow wire (thin) to be
hooked to *anything*, not even itself.  Opening the instrument cluster
and de-soldering the THEFT LED prevents the LED from staying on
constantly, which it did after this permanent bypass.

THE NAGGING TRUTH
This was all today.  It may fail tomorrow and never start again.  I
hope this helps y'all.  Thanks to all who replied to my question,
especially Neil.

Thank God, it's runnin'.  :)

--HC