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Car Forum / Pontiac / Pontiac Cars / December 2006Bonneville stalls!
It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no computer codes creating the problem. While driving (mainly under 40 mph) the chime rings and the "check gauges" light comes on right before it stalls; it then always starts up with no problems. It seems to do this when the fuel level is low, but it also happened today with 1/2 a tank of gas... Thanks for your suggestions. fpb > It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no > computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > fpb Sounds like a problem I had with a '95 GA. I was told it was a weak fuel pump that was unable to suck up the fuel properly when the tank was low on fuel. With more fuel in the tank the pressure at the pick-up is higher making it easier for the pump. I just lived with it and kept the fuel above 1/2 tank because the repair estimate was ridiculous. Conversely, another friend said the diagnosis sounded "like Bullshit". Maybe one of the more learned folks here can render an opinion on this. Lee '00 SSEi '04 Volvo S-60 I'd clean the iac and passages, clean the throttle body and disconnect the egr for test purposes to see if the stall stops. >> It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no >> computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > '00 SSEi > '04 Volvo S-60 In article <1166877253.314188.243740@48g2000cwx.googlegroups.com>, joezaier56@hotmail.com says... > I've had similar problems with my 92 SSEi, but mine tends to happen > going aroung turns and sometimes when accelerating, someone told me the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > together, be interested in hearing what you ultimately do and find was > the cause. My question is does it stall with more than a half of a tank or when it's a quarter or less? I'm guessing you often run the tank past 1/4 to 1/8th of a tank before filling up. A "higher performance" pump wont do anything, at least not without adding a "pulse damper". Even then you should stay above 1/4 tank. Actually you would be right about where I've been gas wise when its done that. > In article <1166877253.314188.243740@48g2000cwx.googlegroups.com>, > joezaier56@hotmail.com says... [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > anything, at least not without adding a "pulse damper". Even then you > should stay above 1/4 tank. I've had similar problems with my 92 SSEi, but mine tends to happen going aroung turns and sometimes when accelerating, someone told me the same thing, they think its the fuel pump and also mentioned the the Thottle Body!?! Personally I figure better to be safe, than sure, so I'm ultimately just going to get the fuel pump replaced to a higher performance and quality pump anyway, irregardless whether thats the problem or not since overall I'm looking to get higher perfomance mods throughout my engine period. At any rate, good luck on getting it together, be interested in hearing what you ultimately do and find was the cause. Joe > It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no > computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > fpb Sounds like a voltage issue. Fully inspect and test the battery, alternator, and connections. > It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no > computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > fpb To add to the many other suggestions you've gotten it could easily be a CPS (crank position) sensor. They'll make a car do what you describe and not show a code. I'd put the egr next on the list, though at 40 it shouldn't be a factor. And fuel pump? I'd put that at the bottom of the list unless you can hear it howling at idle. The CPS can be a royal pain to change out, but the part is pretty cheap. If you do replace it you need to have a "case learn" performed so the computer knows where the crank is. --tr > > It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no > > computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > --tr We got 2 people here using the same thread for diff problems. For Joe the problem is he's loosing pressure when fuel sloshes away from his fuel pickup. The line doesnt stay pressurized. He can add a pulse damper to fix this and replace his fuel pump & assembly while he's there. The fuel lines on a 92 would probably be fairly rotted if he has salted roads there. Also filling up before going below 1/4 of a tank is always a wise thing to do. Only pic I could find of a fuel pulse damper. http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/pics/pulse_damper.jpg >For Joe > the problem is he's loosing pressure when fuel sloshes away from his > fuel pickup. Sorry, didn't see the post from Joe saying he'd monitored the FP and sees it dropping. --tr > It's a '98 and has been checked and determined that there are no > computer codes creating the problem. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > fpb My money is on a voltage issue. Its colder out now and a week battery with a poor connection isnt going to cut it in a voltage hungery Bonneville. At 40mph you're engine isnt dishing out enough RPM's to supply a lot of voltage from the Alt to make up for the battery voltage falling off. If the engine is still cold the ECM isnt going to damand the Alt to make a generate a lot of voltage either as it thinks the extra load could stall the engine... |
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