Thanks for the response. I guess I was not complete in description---
when the pressure dropped the sound of tappets was immediately apparent.
After I changed the oil pressure relief valve and got no pressure removed
the valve and turned the engine no oil out of the hole for the valve.
Reading the manual can't see alternative to the pump. Clarks garage
suggests that it COULD be a loose bolt on the drive shaft--- actually sounds
improbable to me but what do I know. Was fishing to see if anybody else
had obtained results from tightening a bolt--- from what I read there is a
key on the drive shaft of the pump--- could have sheared I guess --- again
seems improbable I am actually thinking of taking the car to the shop---and
I hate that--- they always seem to come back with more problems then existed
when the car went into the shop.
> Oil pressure sending unit faulty.
> Broken wire from sending unit
> Bad or loose connection on oil sending unit.
> Bad oil pressure gauge.
Follow Clarks advice. You take that car to a shop with that problem
you will be taken to the cleaners.
brian - I will almost guarantee you that, presuming you checked that
there is enough oil in the engine, the bolt on the front of the
crankshaft has come loose. I have had this happen to me when I
changed the water pump and needed to pull that pulley - if you don't
properly torque that bolt, it will loosen and you will have no oil
pressure. that bolt needs to be particularly tight - refer to the
manual for torque specs. The only other thing I can think of is that
there was a lump of someting in the oil that got sucked into the
intake, and that's very very unlikely.
There is ABSOlUTELY NO key on the driveshaft for the oil pump, it is
compressive force only that holds it in place - at least that's the
case on the cars I've taken apart.
But, don't drive the car - tow it to where you can work on it, or you
really will trash the engine.
> Thanks for the response. I guess I was not complete in description---
>when the pressure dropped the sound of tappets was immediately apparent.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>> Bad or loose connection on oil sending unit.
>> Bad oil pressure gauge.
Bill
www.wbnoble.com
to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it
will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
Brian Moore - 27 Mar 2006 00:39 GMT
William--- (I hesitate to use the common Bill) I put it on a trailer to get
it home-- I guess I just thought it sounds ridiculous that a bolt could
come loose and the oil pressure go away. The next question becomes where is
the bolt. Is it the bolt on the balance shaft pulley with the eccentric?
This is the only bolt that makes sense to me. If so that isn't a terrible
job. A couple of hours because of the removal of the cover. I bought the
"tool" with the two prongs on it from Performance Products that you use to
keep it in place as you tighten the bolt, but, honestly I didn't think that
it was connected to the oil pump. I have been through the manual (Both the
one downloaded from Cannell and the Haynes) and I can't get a read on where
the blasted thing is. Thanks for the response. Sometimes when I'm in SoCal
I will have to drop in and at least buy you a beer.
> brian - I will almost guarantee you that, presuming you checked that
> there is enough oil in the engine, the bolt on the front of the
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
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darthpup - 27 Mar 2006 16:38 GMT
Read the procedure in www.clarks-garage.com.
Brian Moore - 28 Mar 2006 03:29 GMT
Darthpup--- thank you but I have already read Clark's and I still have the
same problem. Is the "crankshaft" bolt that is refereed to inside the pan?
If so that would explain my incapacity to determine from what I have seen
and what I have found taking covers off which of the bolts to which William
and Clark's are referring. I am not completely dense as you seem to think
from the tone of your posts. No I'm not a mechanic, but I have turned a
wrench or two. From what I am seeing under the car however, it seems that
it would be difficult to remove the pan without removing the engine--- the
front crossmenber will be in the way, or at least it appears so. I guess
that could be removed without removing the engine--- looks like only four
bolts. I do appreciate the help, however.
I have today removed the front covers, checked the torque on the balance
shaft belt tensioner (thought it might go to the oil pump--- yeh I was
wrong) and checked the crankshaft pulley. Tensioner was right on at 33 ft
lbs, crankshaft pulley was above the maximum on my torque wrench. I know
when I find or the bolt is pointed out to me it will make perfect sense but
right now it is a mystery. Thanks again,
Brian Moore
> Read the procedure in www.clarks-garage.com.
William B Noble (don't reply to this address) - 28 Mar 2006 04:40 GMT
the bolt to which I refer is a single large bolt dead center in the
middle of the pulley on hte front of hte crankshaft - as I recall it's
about 26mm head, maybe 29? I'll almost guarantee you that it's
loose.
>Darthpup--- thank you but I have already read Clark's and I still have the
>same problem. Is the "crankshaft" bolt that is refereed to inside the pan?
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>Brian Moore
>> Read the procedure in www.clarks-garage.com.
Bill
www.wbnoble.com
to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it
will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
Brian Moore - 28 Mar 2006 13:15 GMT
Thank you--- That bolt on my car is a 24mm and plenty tight --- like I said
in the previous post, the bolt was torqued beyond the setting on my
wrench.--- today it's off to Don's Autoworks--- a shop that has been
involved with the Loma Prieta region for over thirty years. I really don't
want to change the oil pump. I guess I'll just wait a while to pull the
engine on this one and learn the intricacies of the oil pump drive.
Thank you for your input.
Darthpup, thank you too!
Brian Moore
> the bolt to which I refer is a single large bolt dead center in the
> middle of the pulley on hte front of hte crankshaft - as I recall it's
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
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darthpup - 28 Mar 2006 13:15 GMT
One other possibility: If you are using MV oil such as 5W-50 you may
have a clogged oil filter. Recommend you change the filter. Check for
oil flow with the filter removed by cranking engine etc. WBN is
probably correct.
Where, geographically is the car located?
Brian Moore - 30 Mar 2006 02:34 GMT
Thank you both for the input but the problem was a broken oil pickup tube.
(When I first went in to Don's Autowerks they ask if I had primed the pump--
when I said no they also expected it to be just the pressure relief valve)
but nooo--- the pan has to come off. Oh well. I guess things happen.
Thanks again
Brian
> the bolt to which I refer is a single large bolt dead center in the
> middle of the pulley on hte front of hte crankshaft - as I recall it's
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
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Brian Moore - 08 Apr 2006 00:26 GMT
OK--- back from shop--- broken oil pick up tube and collapsed motor mounts-
(had some in the tool box but hadn't gotten installed yet) with parts only
$1200 -- not bad for the amount of work in volved and a lot better than
spending 20hrs on my back on my own. Reason that it broke? Balance shaft
off by several teeth=== don't know how that happened I didn't see but one
timing mark on the balance shaft when I changed the belt and there was no
indication that it was loose. Did something wrong but don't know what.
Thanks again for the help---
Brian
> Thank you both for the input but the problem was a broken oil pickup tube.
> (When I first went in to Don's Autowerks they ask if I had primed the pump--
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
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William B Noble (don't reply to this address) - 09 Apr 2006 07:35 GMT
there are, as I recall, two timing marks on the balance shaft, you
need to use the right one, per manual, and align with the right
pointer for each shaft. you should have noticed the excess vibration
- now that you know what it feels like correct, you will be able to
know when something is wrong easier
>OK--- back from shop--- broken oil pick up tube and collapsed motor mounts-
>(had some in the tool box but hadn't gotten installed yet) with parts only
[quoted text clipped - 67 lines]
>> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Bill
www.wbnoble.com
to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it
will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
darthpup - 10 Apr 2006 00:59 GMT
You will need to be very careful when aligning the timing marks. If
you get the belt off by one notch the enigne will vibrate. When
properly aligned the engine does not vibrate at any rpm and will
operate as smooth as a turbine. You may have to locate an experienced
Porsche mechanic to have this done correctly or to advise you..
Brian Moore - 10 Apr 2006 03:25 GMT
As usual I obviously am a slow learner--- I didn't even know there were TWO
balance shafts. Now that I know I'll read more carefully in the future.
And Yes I can tell the difference ---and it is substantial. Thought I felt
something moving in the front end yesterday. Thought it could be a loose
mounting bolt but after getting the front end up and checking everything I
could see I am at least comfortable with everyday (for everybody else)
freeway speeds. Don't think anything is about to fall off. But--- the
alignment is now off === and that bothers me. Checked the tie rods, the
crossmember, the control arms--- can't think of anything else nor could I
see anything else -- oh, checked the mounting bolts to the steering rack--
am at a loss as to what I felt. Will take it to be realigned but it seems
that should not have been changed. We shall see.
Thanks again for the advise--- I'm sure I will impose on you all again.
Take care all
Brian
> You will need to be very careful when aligning the timing marks. If
> you get the belt off by one notch the enigne will vibrate. When
> properly aligned the engine does not vibrate at any rpm and will
> operate as smooth as a turbine. You may have to locate an experienced
> Porsche mechanic to have this done correctly or to advise you..