Your skills as a mechanic sound as good as your judgement in buying a decent
car.

In the interest of keeping the usenet archives up to date, after thinking
about it, and tracing the wire layouts I decided to try somethings.  First,
when I bench bled the master cylinder, I did not bleed the sensor orifices.
So I put the power bleeder back on, and cracked them open.  I left them
open till I saw fluid, and retightened.  Next I tested the voltage at the
82a point on the sensor plug (I had unplugged them to bleed the sensors)  I
read 12v.  I placed a jumper from 82a to 81 (this is the two vertical
female plugs).  Still no lights.  Testing the driver side light, I found
12v.  The lamp appeared to be good, but was not coming on.  Since I do not
have any extra lights about, I swapped with the backup light.  The light
came on.  Next I removed the passenger light box, and found the ground had
come loose.  Pressing this together gave me that light.  

I then removed the jumper, and replaced the plugs, and pumped the brakes
some.  After a few pumps the brake warning light went off, so I removed the
bleeder.  After buttoning up the hood, and putting away tools, I took it
for a little spin.  The brakes stop the car, and lock the wheels, as well
as not receiving complaints from the brake warning lights.  I am not used
to power brakes, so they still feel a bit soft, but they hold position, and
stop the car, so this must be the feeling of the pedal.  

I am waiting for a few parts from AutoAlanta to get here, and will still
replace the wire harness for the instrument panel, as it was cut by a
previous owner.  This and the heater control that is damaged will complete
the internal issues (not including the few upholstery issues, but they are
not a priority)

I tell you driving this car around really made my night, it will be probably
hard to fall asleep!  I just wish there were some nice curves close by to
test it out on.  

Thanks to all that have helped,

Paul.