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Car Forum / Porsche / Porshe 944 / July 20051983 Porsche 944 Overheating
Alright here goes: I have repalced the following parts: 1) Radiator (New) 2) Thermostat twice 180 first time and 170 this time 3) Both fans w/ 10" Perma kool 1150cfm fans 4) Bypassed the Factory Wires to a new relay using existing new switch 5) All the air is out of the system (I’ve been checking for a week no air) 6) All fuel system parts replaced (Pump, filter, screen, regulators) 7) Headgasket Kit (Resurface head) Heres the scenario, My car will run on the 1st mark while on the freeway untill and in town as long as the car keeps moving. When on a long light it will get to 1/2 then cool back off. Today it was 84 F and I was driving on the freeway around 35mph (Live in the Bay Area ya know) and it was creeping up to the 3/4 mark. Got off at my exit and it cooled down a little bit (Halfway Between half and 3/4. When waiting for the lit it passed the 3/4 mark and was creeping to hot. Whats the deal I can’t think of anything else to replace. HHHEEELLLLLPPPPP Thanks > Alright here goes: > I have repalced the following parts: [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Thanks "they all do that." if you listen real close you can hear the fan kick in when it gets up to about 3/4 and then it cools it right down. I am thinking of getting a low temp fan thermoswitch for just that reason. I don't know why a supposedly precision engineered car like a Porsche would have such poor control over engine temps - I thought it was desirable to hold engine temps in a narrow band, not let it fluctuate all over the place. nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I assumed you put in a new temp switch with your new radiator. How many miles are on the car? The only thing left is the water pump. My car overheated with about 110k on it. The water pump did not leak and it did not seize up. When I pulled it out you could still turn it, but it dragged compared to a new one. . I don't know if it was the original water pump or not. It was probably the second one. I later changed the radiator and thermostat also. I live in the south and my turbo never passes through the 3/4 mark now. > > Alright here goes: > > I have repalced the following parts: [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > nate I think the motor only has 120000. It’s not the original motor for the car. The original motor had a piston sized hole in the side of the block. The fan turns on 1/2 between the 1st mark and 1/2 and only shuts off on the freeway. I also was thinking water pump but wanted other ideas cause I don’t want to keep throwing money at this car. All the Thermal Sensors are new including the radiator. Whats normal in this car as far as Temp goes??????!!!!????? :). I had a 68 Dodge Polara w/ 383 pumping out 475hp 530lb torque with the stock radiator and 2 12" Fans and it never got hot. This thing w/ stock radiator, stock motor, no a/c on can’t manage to keep it’s kewl..... you think it’s on Extacy ;) >I assumed you put in a new temp switch with your new radiator. How >many [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] >> >> nate sounds like normal 944 operation.... as long as the temp needle stays between the 2nd and 3 rd marks, and not up into the red.you are really ok. is istting at a light and idling, the temp goes up, the fans kick in the temp goes down and the cycle repeast you are lookin at normal 944 function. you may not see this if you have the a/c on as when oyu have the a/c on, the fan runs at half speed all of the time. next belt change have them do the water pump at the same time DC >I think the motor only has 120000. It's not the original motor for the >car. The original motor had a piston sized hole in the side of the [quoted text clipped - 140 lines] > > My car has a new stock temp switch, thermostat, radiator, and water pump (had a timing belt job and needed a new radiator at about the same time) and it still behaves as the OP describes. I have a friend who has owned several 944s and he assured me that this is normal behavior. nate > I assumed you put in a new temp switch with your new radiator. How many > miles are on the car? [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Hate to bring this up but there are two ways to put that head gasket on. One is wrong. Go over here and see if you did it correctly. www.clarks-garage.com. Wrong way you would not get proper coolant system flow. > Alright here goes: > I have repalced the following parts: [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Thanks Water pump. Just because it's not leaking doesn't mean it's pumping adequately. John Cairns Try cleaning the ground connections from the battery to frame and between the engine and frame. Actually my 84 944 does most of what you describe and always has. You might try putting some "water wetter" in the coolant. It will improve cooling considerably. > Whats the deal I can?t think of anything else to replace. > HHHEEELLLLLPPPPP Stupid questions, Does the heater blow hot when you expect? Are the top and bottom hoses both warm when the car has heated up properly and the stat is open? Signature"Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot. http://www.bouncing-czechs.com >In article ><1_605796_baa223f92b2c98ff32c7ef5c353e33f5@autoforumz.com>, [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Are the top and bottom hoses both warm when the car has heated up >properly and the stat is open? Here’s what I’ve tested with the heater. I let the car go to operating temp and turned the heater on it blew hot. I turned off the engine with the heater in the on position and put the key on "on" and turn the blower on till the air wasn’t hot anymore. Then I fired the engine and it was blowing hot air within 1-3 seconds of the engine firing. Yes top is scalding, didn’t grope ;) the borrom hose yet. Stat definately opens. Should I be worrying about it getting into the red (white) I don’t want to screw anything up.... it just doesn’t make sense. I would suspect you have a faulty thermostat. Even if it is new it could be bad. Try putting a lower temp thermostat in. Your temp should not swing into the yellow zone, unless its 90, ac on and in stalled traffic. I had the exact same symptoms with my 87 NA 944. I live in Miami and on any day where the air temp approached or exceeded 90 deg F, the temp did just what yours does. I installed a new radiator, fans, fan relay, water pump, thermostat, temp sensors, hoses, belts, resealed front of engine and oil cooler while I had it all apart. Now 2000 miles later she is as cool as a cucumber, air on, air off, sitting, moving whatever, the guage only just barely comes off the first mark. A bunch of money and time but so far its been worth it. I just hope it lasts! By the end of this summer, if it lasts, I'll feel confident the problem has been solved. Good luck. saw >I would suspect you have a faulty thermostat. Even if it is new it > could be bad. > Try putting a lower temp thermostat in. Your temp should not swing > into the yellow zone, unless its 90, ac on and in stalled traffic. The '83 only has a single fan for cooling, the 85.5 and later have 2 fans that operate independantly . the total cooling operation is much better on the 85.5 and later vehicles... the symptons that are listed for the 84 are absoultely NORMAL the car does not like to sit in traffice,, the whole cooling system is underpowered and is designed to work best when spooling down the road.... as long as the temp goes up, the fan kicks on, the temp goes down and it stays out of the red zone it is stone NORMAL DC >I had the exact same symptoms with my 87 NA 944. I live in Miami and on any >day where the air temp approached or exceeded 90 deg F, the temp did just [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > I have an 84 NA and had these same problems and replaced all the same parts you have. My understanding is when you put a lower temp thermostat in, you also want to do the lower temp fan switch at the same time. Also I replaced the water pump. In addition to the work you did these two item help me alot. I also run at least 60% water to 40% coolant (if not more water) and Water Wetter. You've probably already done this, but get all of the rocks and other debrise out of the AC condensor to make sure there is good air flow to the radiator. (Granted my car is no longer driven on the street, but removing the AC condensor helped the most in eliminating my overheating problems.) "krbrooks" wrote: > I have an 84 NA and had these same problems and replaced all > the same [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > overheating > problems.) Thanks for the suggestions. I’m getting a new pump installed into the car. At this point all the cooling system has been replaced. Not sure if I was specific enough the thermostat and switch for the fans are low temp. I’ll let you know how it goes. Side question how do you adjust the idle in these cars???? > Thanks for the suggestions. I'm getting a new pump installed > into the car. At this point all the cooling system has been > replaced. Not sure if I was specific enough the thermostat and > switch for the fans are low temp. I'll let you know how it > goes. Side question how do you adjust the idle in these > cars???? It was the waterpump seems to stay kool now. It won’t get past the 1/2 mark. > It was the waterpump seems to stay kool now. It won't get past > the 1/2 mark. Hey guyz it’s happening again but it’s weird. It won’t get past 1/2 until the weather get’s 96+ or the A/C is on. It will stay mostly put at idle at a light for instance but the second you get going or even at a stop if the RPM’s reach 3000ish the temp gauge just rises. What gives????? Everything has been replaced and even used water-wetter additive. I even replaced all the plugs, wires, cap, rotor. |
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