Hey guys,
My car was basically completely rebuilt by Otto's in Venice Beach.
John always told me that he adjusted all valves to 0.004in, and he's
been doing it for years, never had issues, and feels its a better
setting. I believe his comment was, "if you can hear them, its bad"
Otto's isn't convenient for me for regular visits and the guys I've
been using do not want to do that. They all want to use the factory
settings: INT-0.006in EXH-0.008in
After an Otto's adjustment, the valves are nice and quiet. After an
adjustment from anybody else, they still sound noisey.
Now, Otto's built the motor and heads originally, and I do feel some
trust towards John. I know that he's got his own methods for head
rebuiling, but has anybody else experienced good or bad either way?
Should I force my mechanics to use the 0.004 settings anyways, or
should i let them stick to the factory recommended settings?
Thanks for the advice.
Jonas
jonas_me@yahoo.com - 15 Aug 2007 23:40 GMT
I found my own answer!
I asked Otto himself, and I must correct my previous statement.
He said he uses: 0.004int/0.006exh
That makes way more sense now.
Kurt Weber - 21 Nov 2007 01:47 GMT
> Hey guys,
> My car was basically completely rebuilt by Otto's in Venice Beach.
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Thanks for the advice.
> Jonas
Its when you dont hear anything that you should be concerned. This
means in the extreme that your valves may not be fully closing, which
means burnt exhaust valves. I would definitely go with the original
factory recommended clearance, period.
Kurt
DST - 21 Nov 2007 17:19 GMT
>> Hey guys,
>> My car was basically completely rebuilt by Otto's in Venice Beach.
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Kurt
Who wouldn't love to have a quiet air-cooled engine!
Factory service recommendations take into account the durability of materials and the range of conditions they will be subjected to.
An air-cooled engine can be a demanding environment.
No doubt the factory has considered the range of temperatures and use (i.e., high R.P.M.s) that the driver might subject the engine to.
Heat combined with the linear acceleration of mass does very interesting things to metal.
At various speeds and temperatures, that valve is returning home to its seat.
Your valve train is in a constant state of flux between "worked hard" and "tortured".
If I can determine the amount of service life I need to get out of my engine, and then adjust my valves based on my knowledge of the strength of the metals, the fuel I'm using, the true temperature range of operation, and the amount of tach I'll use, then
I can feel comfy with custom settings.
It's part of racing.
If you like your mechanic and his rebuilds get good service life for the way you drive your car (he knows how you drive your car, right?) then stick with him.
Cheers,
Dave