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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / September 2006Drill Raises the Roof
The following is pasted from another forum I replied to on 7/31...I bought a 2005 Viking/Coachman Clipper about 3 weeks ago with a 13,000 BTU AC unit on top. This model uses the new ACME screw mechanism for the lift. It also uses a chain drive extension that is 2 feet up from the frame for ease of cranking. I bought the DeWalt 18 volt drill, set it at 450 RPM (#1 position) and made a socket assembly for the crank mechanism. It got about half way up and gave up. So, being the electro-mechanical kind of guy I am, I ordered a larger sprocket for the camper's drive shaft and a new chain from McMaster/Carr today to see if my theory about sprocket ratio's holds up. 8/6....As promised in my post of 7/31, I installed a larger sprocket on the drive shaft. Stuck the drill on it and away she went. No problem. Went right up at about the same speed as it would if I hand cranked it. The drill wasn't reacting the same as it was before the mod. It didn't lug or heat up. What I did, changed the ratio from 1:1 to 1:2. Anybody interested in this? This mod is model specific but would probably work on other brands/models using sprockets and chains. I would be curious to know if anybody else has had a similar experience using a drill to lift the roof. Mike in Monroe Mike, Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to raise our 2000 Coleman Westlake on: http://www.pbase.com/bfreeman/coleman_popup_camperlift_with_drill&page=all The Bosch drill "burned up" again the second night out in July and after three weeks of cranking from Florida to the Tetons, Idaho, and Mt. Rushmore, my arm is getting "tired"! The Bosch repair folks sent me a prepaid UPS label to send it in again which I did yesterday. I'm waiting to see the results. Will they repair without charge? If so will this happen again? Do I need to get a powerful AC drill and always stay at campgrounds with AC? (That would mean no more National Parks and National Forest campgrounds.) Bob Freeman Tallahassee, FL 2000Coleman Westlake 1993 Jeep Cherokee (2WD)-185,000 miles >Mike, >Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to raise [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >2000Coleman Westlake >1993 Jeep Cherokee (2WD)-185,000 miles If you can find someone that owns a Craftsman 19.2 drill driver, try to borrow it and give it a try.. I use one to crank the stabilizers up and down on a TT and that sucker has some TORQUE! (make sure to set the clutch, this thing can hurt your wrist.. DAMHIK) mac Please remove splinters before emailing Thanks Mac. I'll look around and if unsuccessful, may try a rental place after I know what Bosch is going to do about my drill repair! Bob Freeman Bob.....I looked at the pictures. The one thing you are "missing" here is that the camper I have uses a "waist high chain driven sprocket crank" to the shaft assembly at the bumper not unlike what is in your picture #5. This affords the opportunity to change the lower sprocket to twice the size of the upper sprocket thereby changing the ratio/torque required to raise the roof. If you fabricated a similar setup for your Coleman, you will no longer burn up drills. What you are shooting for here is a #35 chain and and 2 sprockets...the upper one should have about 16 teeth and the lower 32 teeth. The distance between the 2 sprockets of course, is not important. Mine raises at a similar speed as hand cranking fast and strong. The drill I have has 500 inch pounds of torque and I run it at it's lowest setting of 450 rpm. Try it...it will work well if it's built right. Mike > Mike, > Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to raise [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > 2000Coleman Westlake > 1993 Jeep Cherokee (2WD)-185,000 miles >>Mike, >>Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to raise [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >>2000Coleman Westlake >>1993 Jeep Cherokee (2WD)-185,000 miles This is the Bosch drill you want http://www.boschtools.com/tools/tools-detail.htm?H=175973&G=54911&I=54990 with 767 foot-lbs of torgue it will lift any popup roof including AC. Of course it is corded, but it is cheaper than the cordless that will do the job and doesn't need a new battery(ies) every two to three years. Bill 96 Coleman Bayport Bill.....I guess if I was going for an AC drill this would be a good choice. Considering that it has so much torque and all...767 "foot pounds" ??!! Wow....what a deal.!! I think you meant to say "inch pounds". An easy mistake to make. ;) Mike >>>Mike, >>>Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Bill > 96 Coleman Bayport raise the roof and drill for oil all with one tool...;^) John Emmons > Bill.....I guess if I was going for an AC drill this would be a good choice. > Considering that it has so much torque and all...767 "foot pounds" ??!! [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > > > This is the Bosch drill you want http://www.boschtools.com/tools/tools-detail.htm?H=175973&G=54911&I=54990 > > with 767 foot-lbs of torgue it will lift any popup roof including AC. Of > > course it is corded, but it is cheaper than the cordless that will do the > > job and doesn't need a new battery(ies) every two to three years. > > > > Bill > > 96 Coleman Bayport Or pull a big 5th wheel past Dodge & Ford diesels up hills.. lol >raise the roof and drill for oil all with one tool...;^) > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] >> > Bill >> > 96 Coleman Bayport mac Please remove splinters before emailing It still must be a monster, Mike.. the Sears/Chinese 19.2 v driver only has 410 IP and the sucker can really twist your wrist.. >Bill.....I guess if I was going for an AC drill this would be a good choice. >Considering that it has so much torque and all...767 "foot pounds" ??!! [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >> Bill >> 96 Coleman Bayport mac Please remove splinters before emailing > Bill.....I guess if I was going for an AC drill this would be a good choice. > Considering that it has so much torque and all...767 "foot pounds" ??!! > Wow....what a deal.!! I think you meant to say "inch pounds". An easy > mistake to make. ;) > > Mike Well I was quoting from memory. I figured that if it is cool enough not to need the AC(and hence shore power), then I can raise the roof the normal way. Replacement batteries for the high end cordless drills are expensive, you almost better just buying a new drill(usually with two batteries). A google search on www.popupexplorer.com will give plenty of info on using drills for this. Bill Yea....I was lurking around on popupexplorer for a while too and found that idea about the drill. It works by the way. However, I have a an expensive boat anchor sitting in my garage while some engineer at Viking's vendor figures out what he did wrong concerning the lift system. It's on recall and my dealer says 18 people are in front of me for the fix. I have only had the thing for 2 months, brand new. I hope my patience doesn't run out and my attitude change towards Viking. Being in the service business of electro-mechanical equipment I know who is to blame here, so I am not angry with anybody but the guy (or gal) that probably didn't bother to try and find a way to make it fail before releasing it for production. Same old story. $$$$$ Mike >> Bill.....I guess if I was going for an AC drill this would be a good >> choice. Considering that it has so much torque and all...767 "foot [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Bill I don't have the start of this conversation. But you might want to consider trying a starter motor. Those things are built for torque and hard turning. If you have a manual without the silly clutch safety, you can move a whole car forward with one. Rich >Mike, >Have a look at the pictures and description of the drill I bought to raise [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >three weeks of cranking from Florida to the Tetons, Idaho, and Mt. Rushmore, >my arm is getting "tired"!  SignatureI am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do. --Robert A. Heinlein >I don't have the start of this conversation. But you might want to > consider trying a starter motor. Those things are built for torque and [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >>Rushmore, >>my arm is getting "tired"! I have a Dewalt 18v hammer drill, 3 speeds. No problem with this drill. The older 18V Craftsman, had little power, and short battery life. Rich, Bosch replaced my drill last time with a newer model and during a month's usage this past July it never failed me, but inasmuch (as we age), we usually stay where there's hookups and thinking it might fail again, I bought an AC drill with even more torque . It was my backup but never got used once! Bob Freeman, Tallahassee >>I don't have the start of this conversation. But you might want to >> consider trying a starter motor. Those things are built for torque and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > I have a Dewalt 18v hammer drill, 3 speeds. No problem with this drill. > The older 18V Craftsman, had little power, and short battery life. I just bought a relatively cheap 110 volt drill, and welded a bolt into a piece of pipe. I cut a slot in the end of the pipe to match the "ears" on the trailer stabilizing jacks. Add an outdoor extension cord to your packing list and there are no worries about the drill battery going dead. I keep a small inverter in the truck, so even if the site has no electricity, I can still crank down the trailer stabilizing jacks without too much effort. >>I don't have the start of this conversation. But you might want to >> consider trying a starter motor. Those things are built for torque and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > I have a Dewalt 18v hammer drill, 3 speeds. No problem with this drill. > The older 18V Craftsman, had little power, and short battery life. >I don't have the start of this conversation. But you might want to > consider trying a starter motor. Those things are built for torque and [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >>Rushmore, >>my arm is getting "tired"! Heinlen could write, but when things get too stiff to move around, use a little lubrication... john
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