I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
and it drives me nuts to disconnect the battery between trips because
that propane detector will run the battery dry. I am now thinking that
a larger switch for the negative leg of the battery would probably be
better. Has anyone had any good luck with a switch for disconnecting
the battery? Ideally I would like the switch mounted outside the
trailer box and outside the battery box so that I could easily switch
the battery on and off while the camper is down for charging, etc.
Slacker
2004 Starcraft 2411
2003 Jeep Gran Cher
Frank Tabor - 19 Dec 2005 19:34 GMT
I see where, Slacker managed to write:
>I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
>upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>2004 Starcraft 2411
>2003 Jeep Gran Cher
If you are going to put a disconnect for the battery in, get a
commercially available one and install it in the Positive side.

Signature
Frank Tabor
meldx - 19 Dec 2005 20:03 GMT
I had the same problem, I installed a on/off switch to the propane
detector, was an easy job for 3$. So when at home, I kill the propane
detector off, and open it back on when leaving from home. wify makes
sure I don't forget! ;-)
Eric
Slacker a écrit:
> I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
> upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> 2004 Starcraft 2411
> 2003 Jeep Gran Cher
Jonathan - 19 Dec 2005 20:26 GMT
Greetings,
I would suggest buying a battery isolator switch from almost any auto parts
store and installing it on the postive side of the battery. This will help
prevent any parasitic drains you may have (or get in the future) from
killing your battery, plus it will better than just putting a switch on the
detector because then you will absolutely remember to turn it back on
because nothing else will work either.
Cheers - Jonathan
>I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
> upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> 2004 Starcraft 2411
> 2003 Jeep Gran Cher
+Tom+ - 19 Dec 2005 23:24 GMT
I have a 2004 Starcraft 1701.
I assume that the wireing on both are the same.
From the Pos. battery terminal are two wires going to the camper.
A red and a black one. Both off them have in-line connectors.
The red wire has a line fuse as well.
I think that the red wire is feeding the LP detector, but it is best to
unplug both connectors.
Just follow the wires from the battery to the frame and you should find
the connectors
Tom
> I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
> upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> 2004 Starcraft 2411
> 2003 Jeep Gran Cher
AustinMN - 20 Dec 2005 14:09 GMT
<snip>
> I am now thinking that
> a larger switch for the negative leg of the battery would probably be
> better.
Hope by now you've noticed that you want the positive side switched,
not the negative. ;)
Austin
mac davis - 20 Dec 2005 17:01 GMT
>I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
>upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>2004 Starcraft 2411
>2003 Jeep Gran Cher
You're getting good advice here... the group has a lot of experience..
Go to your neighborhood Home Depot, Sears, Lowes, Etc... even the RV store if
your wallet needs lightening, and get a switch that's MADE for shutting the
positive post off...
BTDT section: On my first trailer, I looked at good battery switches for $10 -
$15 and the normal knife switches for $3 and got the cheap one... BAD MOVE..
After replacing the shorted out battery and getting the real switch, it was
about a $100 lesson..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Joel Kamentz - 20 Dec 2005 19:51 GMT
Ok, for those of us lurking and not in the know, can anyone explain
why this is?
I would expect that disconnecting either terminal of the battery ought to\
work equally well. And, how is a knife switch different from how one
disconnects when you remove the battery completely (for whatever
reason)?
Is there something odd about how the charging circuits work that they
can keep pushing charge into the positive terminal while sucking extra
electrons from the chassis (which might then be replenished from the
air, etc.)?
What about knife-switching both terminals?
Joel
>>I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
>>upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
Frank Tabor - 21 Dec 2005 00:23 GMT
I see where, Joel Kamentz managed to write:
>Ok, for those of us lurking and not in the know, can anyone explain
>why this is?
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>electrons from the chassis (which might then be replenished from the
>air, etc.)?
There are plenty of ways for current to leak to ground if only the
negative terminal is disconnected. Between the battery post and the
bottom of the battery tray, humidity, grunge, corrosion can allow a
medium resistance to ground.
It's not the knife switch itself, it's the quality of it. A knife
type switch will work to disconnect either or both lines, (both is
best).

Signature
Frank Tabor
AustinMN - 21 Dec 2005 13:32 GMT
> Ok, for those of us lurking and not in the know, can anyone explain
> why this is?
>
> I would expect that disconnecting either terminal of the battery ought to\
> work equally well.
Frank's answer is good, but leaves out an important point. In 12V
systems, the negative terminal is connected to ground, so a
leakage-type connection to ground (through the battery case, rust,
grunge, etc. that Frank mentioned) means a completed (albeit poor)
circuit.
> What about knife-switching both terminals?
That would add a small measure of safety to the disconnect, but also
means one more thing to go wrong, especially if the knife switch is
cheap.
One other thing about knife switches - they are designed for stationary
installation, and sometimes work well under those circumstances. In
situations where they can bounce around (i.e. a pop-up on the road) or
have metallic things dropped on them (tools, metallic coat hangers,
spoons, etc), they are just a problem waiting to happen.
Austin
William Boyd - 21 Dec 2005 02:41 GMT
>I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
>upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>
They make a quick battery disconnect that has a knob screw that allows
the battery cable to be removed from the post.
I would suggest you install it on the positive terminal as it's
directions indicate. This method allows you to completely remove the
cable from the battery with out the use of tools. I seen these devices
in WalMart battery accessory display rack.

Signature
BILL P.
Just Dog
&
ME
mac davis - 21 Dec 2005 18:25 GMT
>They make a quick battery disconnect that has a knob screw that allows
>the battery cable to be removed from the post.
>I would suggest you install it on the positive terminal as it's
>directions indicate. This method allows you to completely remove the
>cable from the battery with out the use of tools. I seen these devices
>in WalMart battery accessory display rack.
I guess that's ok if you're young and enthusiastic.. *g*
Not sure if popups are different, but my battery has a plastic cover and a
strap.. a real PITA to remove and replace just to avoid installing a switch,
IMO..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
JerryB - 24 Dec 2005 05:35 GMT
I work with UPS battery systems quite a lot in my work. Regarding
switching batteries on a RV, it really does not matter whether you
switch the positive or negative. In higher voltage units, i.e. over 50
Vdc, then rules change you switch the negative. The reason for
switching the negative rule applies as over 50 Vdc there is a potetial
for peresonal shock so you first remove the reference to ground.
I like the advise one mentioned of disconnecting battery power when not
in use via a battery switch and not the sensor alone. Switching the
sensor alone leaves a risk of forgetting and this could be a liability
if you forget to recconnect and had a gas leak!
Regarding the battery draining down over time some have mentioned, the
biggest culprit we often find is battery leakage between terminals
outside the casing through dirt and grime. Not too familiar with
internal controls in RV's, but I imagine the converters, refrigerator
and possibly heater controls may have some parasitic loads. Also a
battery loses potential just sitting around, as much as 1% per day
depending on the state of charge and external resistance.
My suggestion is to keep the batteries clean. Use a small trickle
charger designed to maintain 12Vdc when not in use. The alternative is
to place the battery on a charger once every three months to keep them
from sulfating.
Seasons greetings and happy camping
JerryB
> >They make a quick battery disconnect that has a knob screw that allows
> >the battery cable to be removed from the post.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
Ferg - 02 Jan 2006 03:34 GMT
I just remove the two fuses by the battery. I put them in the tow
vehicle where they are handy to insert when we go camping again. This
breaks the circuit so the leak detector doesn't discharge the battery.
Ernie Ferguson
Missouri
> I have a 2004 Starcraft 2411 and was going to install a small switch
> upstream of the propane detector. We don't get to camp every weekend
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> 2004 Starcraft 2411
> 2003 Jeep Gran Cher