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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / February 2006

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Newbie questions on choice of car and trailer

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Bill S - 31 Jan 2006 21:51 GMT
Hello all,
I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
cross-country when I was a child back in the 70's. The bug has bitten
and now I plan to sell my old Subaru legacy and the BMW. In their place
I want to get a newer Subaru, the 6 cylinder Outback and a pop up
trailer. It's just my wife and I. No kids or pets.
the H6 Outback seems to be capable of towing a small pop up. I think
the rating is somewhere around 2700-2900 with the tow package. Has
anyone used this car to tow? I want to be able to traverse mountains
without too much trouble ( I am familiar with the 75% rule). Is all
wheel drive a good thing to have for towing?
Secondly, I am looking for a good, used pop up under $5,000. We like
the amenities like toilet, heat, stove, and possibly air conditioning.
Sleeping space is not important since it's just the 2 of us. I have
seen that there are a few trailers out there that have one bed on the
end. Are there any advantages, disadvantages to such a design? Are
there any models that some of you could recommend? In my internet
research I have gotten familiar with the Coleman (Fleetwood) line and
they seem to be ok but my knowledge is limited. How do they compare
with other brands?
Also, we will probably be doing some dry camping and I would like to
know if some models have a way of supplying power when there is none.
Is that enough questions at once?

Bill
Maryland, near DC
Fred Boer - 01 Feb 2006 00:00 GMT
Hi Bill:

You will likely get lots of good advice. I have towed a small trailer with a
2002 Subaru Legacy. We have a Coleman Taos. I have posted before on this
subject; I can't recommend the Legacy, and I doubt if the OutBack is much
better. The Legacy had enough power for towing, and good brakes, (a very
important issue!), but the rear suspension struggled with even the smallest
of Coleman's trailers. After an (admittedly long...) round trip from Ontario
to Vancouver, my rear tires were unevenly worn, with a balding band on the
inside due to the suspension being overloaded. The style of suspension used
in the Subaru means that you cannot get help from "air bags" to help stiffen
the suspension. (According to my trusted mechanic.)

I thought the Subaru would be up to our 1000 lb. trailer, but this didn't
turn out to be the case for me. Admittedly, we are a family of 4, and not
the lightest packers, but I would be cautious about using the Subaru as a
tow vehicle. Others might have differing advice.

Good luck!
Fred Boer

> Hello all,
> I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Bill
> Maryland, near DC
Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 02:37 GMT
Fred,
Thanks for the info quick reply. I'm not sure your experience with a
Legacy will be similar to an Outback. The Outback is much more suited
for offroading and has an upgraded suspension. All Legacys are also 4
cylinder and about 85 less HP than the 6 cylinder Outback. The "style"
of suspension that you say Subaru has I will take note of. I'll give my
mechanic a call tomorrow (a Subaru specialist)and see if he has any
thoughts on whether the Outback suspension is up to it.
Thanks again,
Bill
Fred Boer - 01 Feb 2006 04:09 GMT
Happy to chat with you!

Yes, an Outback has more power. And you might, because of the raised
suspension, be able to see over the top of the pop-up (another problem I
failed to mention!). However, horsepower was never an issue for me - just
tongue weight...

My dealer swore that the Legacy would easily manage my trailer... but, my
experience suggests my dealer had a rather rosy outlook....Still, your
mileage may vary.

Maybe the Outback is a better tow vehicle. I certainly have enjoyed both the
Loyale we once drove and the Legacy we drive now. (Although, to be honest,
the Loyale lost an engine at 100,000 km, and the Legacy needed new head
gaskets at 90,000 km - hardly the stuff of Subaru reliability legend! Still,
both covered under warranty... - but not the new radiator that I needed at
100,000... but I digress! <g>)

We actually used the Loyale to pull our pop-up, too; but in retrospect that
was clearly unsafe. The brakes were not close to good enough, as we proved
on a long downgrade on our final trip with the Loyale as a tow vehicle.

Our Legacy is rated for 2000 pounds. The Taos is theoretically about 1000
pounds, but with battery and propane tank and packing, would certainly be
more than that. What's the Outback rated? Is it higher?

We now use a Toyota Sienna as our tow vehicle. It is better suited.
Although, I hate driving the Sienna compared to the Subie!!

Cheers!
Fred

> Fred,
> Thanks for the info quick reply. I'm not sure your experience with a
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Thanks again,
> Bill
Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 04:47 GMT
Fred,
If I remember correctly, the dealer told me that the 6 cylinder Outback
with tow package is rated around 2900 pounds and yes, I am aware that
some dealers will say anything to sell a car ;) I figured that if I
stayed below or around 2000 pounds I would be safe.
I'm suprised your Legacy was rated for 2000 pounds. I would think the 4
cylinder Outback would be similar and it is only rated about 1800
pounds with tow package. Then again, I could be getting confused with
all the various weight ratings. I found a good article that explains
the differences between dry weight, gross vehicle weight, etc... but I
haven't read it closely yet.
Thanks for your input,
Bill
Jim Redelfs - 01 Feb 2006 16:18 GMT
> The style of suspension used
> in the Subaru means that you cannot get help from "air bags" to help stiffen
> the suspension. (According to my trusted mechanic.)

That is virtually the same story given my sister when equipping her wagon for
towing.  Too bad.  Her wagon sags badly when towing, too.

> I thought the Subaru would be up to our 1000 lb. trailer, but this didn't
> turn out to be the case for me. Admittedly, we are a family of 4, and not
> the lightest packers, but I would be cautious about using the Subaru as a
> tow vehicle. Others might have differing advice.

I agree with you.  I occasionally drive my sister's Legacy L wagon and enjoy
the vehicle.  However, I believe it isn't really worth SQUAT (pun intended)
for towing any camping trailer that's big enough to offer any comfort and
convenience.

Signature

           :)
JR

Jimbo - 01 Feb 2006 01:46 GMT
I've migrated to the dark side and bought a TT, but I've had lots of good times camping in a popup.  So here's my 2 cents regarding your question.

If you want amenities (and you should), that's going to mean a heavier popup.  I had a '99 Jayco 12ST that was 3100 pounds loaded.  That included a shower, toilet, hotwater heater, fridge w/ freezer, furnace, air, full tanks, and supplies.

Power when dry camping?  You bet.  Two basic approaches.  One approach is to go buy a Honda EU1000 or EU2000 generator.  You buy this particular generator because it is as quiet as you can get and you DON'T want to disturb your neighbors.  To make the generator even less loud, I cabled, when circumstances permitted, over 100 feet away from the campsite out into the woods to make it even less loud for me and neighbors.  Generally, an hour or two a day will recharge your batteries.  Depending on several variables, you may even get the EU2000 to run the air which is real treat on a hot day.  Pros to this is it's easy and plenty of power.  Cons are cost and noise.

The other is power via the car and a solar panel.  No air-conditioning in this scenario.  But the premise is you have two batteries and have a spot to charge one in the car when you're on the move.  So when you go out for day trips, you can be charging your battery.  When you get back to camp, swap out the batteries so the weaker one gets charged the next day.  I did this for years.  I had people come up to me and ask how I ran my SATV dish without ever running a generator.  Well, that's how.  Also a 25 watt solar panel (or better if you can) will help charge on days you don't drive all that much.  Pros cheaper and no noise.  Cons, more work to do.

Otherwise, the propane will run the fridge, hot water, and heat.  I'd recommend two tanks so that when one runs out you've got another.  If you do this right, you can be out in the middle of *nowhere* with a popup and live extremely comfortably.  I bought the TT because I could financially and because the setup is easier and better insulated during hot and cold weather.  Otherwise, popups are king and this is coming from a current (and happy) TT owner.

A couple tips on grey water and black water when dry camping.  There's a lot of people out here that believe it's wrong to dump grey water (you'll have to listen to their points of view and decide for yourself).  But I'm in the camp (no pun intended) that believe it's okay.  Hook a bucket up to the side of the camper and dump it after washing dishes into the brush.  Makes life easy.  With black water, never dump that into the brush period.  However, because popups have these neat cartridge like tanks, you can take it to the outhouse and dump it in there.  Very clean and no mess.  It's great.  I really *miss* being able to that in a TT.

For $5,000 you *should* be able to find something that is loaded if it's 5 years old or more.  But I'd recommend a better car for towing (pickup or SUV would be ideal).  Those Outbacks are nice cars though...I don't blame you for wanting one of those but they just are too borderline for larger popups.  But if you can do without a toilet, shower and maybe air, you could get the weight down enough to do it the way you want (maybe).  

Lastly, I was in the same boat with family camping in the 70's.  Let me tell you, the satisfaction of doing this again yourself will (or should) be huge.  It was for me.  So buy a camper!  Even if it's an old tiny one to start.  Hope this helps.  Have fun!

 Hello all,
 I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
 cross-country when I was a child back in the 70's. The bug has bitten
 and now I plan to sell my old Subaru legacy and the BMW. In their place
 I want to get a newer Subaru, the 6 cylinder Outback and a pop up
 trailer. It's just my wife and I. No kids or pets.
 the H6 Outback seems to be capable of towing a small pop up. I think
 the rating is somewhere around 2700-2900 with the tow package. Has
 anyone used this car to tow? I want to be able to traverse mountains
 without too much trouble ( I am familiar with the 75% rule). Is all
 wheel drive a good thing to have for towing?
 Secondly, I am looking for a good, used pop up under $5,000. We like
 the amenities like toilet, heat, stove, and possibly air conditioning.
 Sleeping space is not important since it's just the 2 of us. I have
 seen that there are a few trailers out there that have one bed on the
 end. Are there any advantages, disadvantages to such a design? Are
 there any models that some of you could recommend? In my internet
 research I have gotten familiar with the Coleman (Fleetwood) line and
 they seem to be ok but my knowledge is limited. How do they compare
 with other brands?
 Also, we will probably be doing some dry camping and I would like to
 know if some models have a way of supplying power when there is none.
 Is that enough questions at once?

 Bill
 Maryland, near DC
Fred Boer - 01 Feb 2006 01:37 GMT
Ok, so I look dumb... what's the definition of "TT" and "Popup". I have a Coleman Taos. I would call it a "tent trailer".

Thanks!
Fred

 I've migrated to the dark side and bought a TT, but I've had lots of good times camping in a popup.  So here's my 2 cents regarding your question.

 If you want amenities (and you should), that's going to mean a heavier popup.  I had a '99 Jayco 12ST that was 3100 pounds loaded.  That included a shower, toilet, hotwater heater, fridge w/ freezer, furnace, air, full tanks, and supplies.

 Power when dry camping?  You bet.  Two basic approaches.  One approach is to go buy a Honda EU1000 or EU2000 generator.  You buy this particular generator because it is as quiet as you can get and you DON'T want to disturb your neighbors.  To make the generator even less loud, I cabled, when circumstances permitted, over 100 feet away from the campsite out into the woods to make it even less loud for me and neighbors.  Generally, an hour or two a day will recharge your batteries.  Depending on several variables, you may even get the EU2000 to run the air which is real treat on a hot day.  Pros to this is it's easy and plenty of power.  Cons are cost and noise.

 The other is power via the car and a solar panel.  No air-conditioning in this scenario.  But the premise is you have two batteries and have a spot to charge one in the car when you're on the move.  So when you go out for day trips, you can be charging your battery.  When you get back to camp, swap out the batteries so the weaker one gets charged the next day.  I did this for years.  I had people come up to me and ask how I ran my SATV dish without ever running a generator.  Well, that's how.  Also a 25 watt solar panel (or better if you can) will help charge on days you don't drive all that much.  Pros cheaper and no noise.  Cons, more work to do.

 Otherwise, the propane will run the fridge, hot water, and heat.  I'd recommend two tanks so that when one runs out you've got another.  If you do this right, you can be out in the middle of *nowhere* with a popup and live extremely comfortably.  I bought the TT because I could financially and because the setup is easier and better insulated during hot and cold weather.  Otherwise, popups are king and this is coming from a current (and happy) TT owner.

 A couple tips on grey water and black water when dry camping.  There's a lot of people out here that believe it's wrong to dump grey water (you'll have to listen to their points of view and decide for yourself).  But I'm in the camp (no pun intended) that believe it's okay.  Hook a bucket up to the side of the camper and dump it after washing dishes into the brush.  Makes life easy.  With black water, never dump that into the brush period.  However, because popups have these neat cartridge like tanks, you can take it to the outhouse and dump it in there.  Very clean and no mess.  It's great.  I really *miss* being able to that in a TT.

 For $5,000 you *should* be able to find something that is loaded if it's 5 years old or more.  But I'd recommend a better car for towing (pickup or SUV would be ideal).  Those Outbacks are nice cars though...I don't blame you for wanting one of those but they just are too borderline for larger popups.  But if you can do without a toilet, shower and maybe air, you could get the weight down enough to do it the way you want (maybe).  

 Lastly, I was in the same boat with family camping in the 70's.  Let me tell you, the satisfaction of doing this again yourself will (or should) be huge.  It was for me.  So buy a camper!  Even if it's an old tiny one to start.  Hope this helps.  Have fun!

   "Bill S" <indianabill68@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1138744275.796573.94100@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
   Hello all,
   I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
   cross-country when I was a child back in the 70's. The bug has bitten
   and now I plan to sell my old Subaru legacy and the BMW. In their place
   I want to get a newer Subaru, the 6 cylinder Outback and a pop up
   trailer. It's just my wife and I. No kids or pets.
   the H6 Outback seems to be capable of towing a small pop up. I think
   the rating is somewhere around 2700-2900 with the tow package. Has
   anyone used this car to tow? I want to be able to traverse mountains
   without too much trouble ( I am familiar with the 75% rule). Is all
   wheel drive a good thing to have for towing?
   Secondly, I am looking for a good, used pop up under $5,000. We like
   the amenities like toilet, heat, stove, and possibly air conditioning.
   Sleeping space is not important since it's just the 2 of us. I have
   seen that there are a few trailers out there that have one bed on the
   end. Are there any advantages, disadvantages to such a design? Are
   there any models that some of you could recommend? In my internet
   research I have gotten familiar with the Coleman (Fleetwood) line and
   they seem to be ok but my knowledge is limited. How do they compare
   with other brands?
   Also, we will probably be doing some dry camping and I would like to
   know if some models have a way of supplying power when there is none.
   Is that enough questions at once?

   Bill
   Maryland, near DC
Tomes - 01 Feb 2006 02:27 GMT
Not so dumb, Fred, if one has not run across it yet <grin>.  You have a
pop-up.  A TT is a travel trailer - the ones that are fuller size with hard
walls already in place and hook up with a 'normal' trailer hitch (but likely
a more elaborate one).  Then come the 5th wheels that hook up in a pick-up's
bed.  Then you have the motorhomes, class B (elaborated vans), C (motorhome
with a van-like front end) and A (bus) in increasing size.  Oh - there are
also truck campers, that slide into the back of a capable pickup truck.
Lookey here:
http://www.rv-coach.com/rv/types/classes/rv_types.html
Tomes

Ok, so I look dumb... what's the definition of "TT" and "Popup". I have a
Coleman Taos. I would call it a "tent trailer".

Thanks!
Fred

 "Jimbo" <no@spam.com> wrote in message
news:kqUDf.48957$PL5.1612@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
 I've migrated to the dark side and bought a TT, but I've had lots of good
times camping in a popup.  So here's my 2 cents regarding your question.

 If you want amenities (and you should), that's going to mean a heavier
popup.  I had a '99 Jayco 12ST that was 3100 pounds loaded.  That included a
shower, toilet, hotwater heater, fridge w/ freezer, furnace, air, full
tanks, and supplies.

 Power when dry camping?  You bet.  Two basic approaches.  One approach is
to go buy a Honda EU1000 or EU2000 generator.  You buy this particular
generator because it is as quiet as you can get and you DON'T want to
disturb your neighbors.  To make the generator even less loud, I cabled,
when circumstances permitted, over 100 feet away from the campsite out into
the woods to make it even less loud for me and neighbors.  Generally, an
hour or two a day will recharge your batteries.  Depending on several
variables, you may even get the EU2000 to run the air which is real treat on
a hot day.  Pros to this is it's easy and plenty of power.  Cons are cost
and noise.

 The other is power via the car and a solar panel.  No air-conditioning in
this scenario.  But the premise is you have two batteries and have a spot to
charge one in the car when you're on the move.  So when you go out for day
trips, you can be charging your battery.  When you get back to camp, swap
out the batteries so the weaker one gets charged the next day.  I did this
for years.  I had people come up to me and ask how I ran my SATV dish
without ever running a generator.  Well, that's how.  Also a 25 watt solar
panel (or better if you can) will help charge on days you don't drive all
that much.  Pros cheaper and no noise.  Cons, more work to do.

 Otherwise, the propane will run the fridge, hot water, and heat.  I'd
recommend two tanks so that when one runs out you've got another.  If you do
this right, you can be out in the middle of *nowhere* with a popup and live
extremely comfortably.  I bought the TT because I could financially and
because the setup is easier and better insulated during hot and cold
weather.  Otherwise, popups are king and this is coming from a current (and
happy) TT owner.

 A couple tips on grey water and black water when dry camping.  There's a
lot of people out here that believe it's wrong to dump grey water (you'll
have to listen to their points of view and decide for yourself).  But I'm in
the camp (no pun intended) that believe it's okay.  Hook a bucket up to the
side of the camper and dump it after washing dishes into the brush.  Makes
life easy.  With black water, never dump that into the brush period.
However, because popups have these neat cartridge like tanks, you can take
it to the outhouse and dump it in there.  Very clean and no mess.  It's
great.  I really *miss* being able to that in a TT.

 For $5,000 you *should* be able to find something that is loaded if it's 5
years old or more.  But I'd recommend a better car for towing (pickup or SUV
would be ideal).  Those Outbacks are nice cars though...I don't blame you
for wanting one of those but they just are too borderline for larger popups.
But if you can do without a toilet, shower and maybe air, you could get the
weight down enough to do it the way you want (maybe).

 Lastly, I was in the same boat with family camping in the 70's.  Let me
tell you, the satisfaction of doing this again yourself will (or should) be
huge.  It was for me.  So buy a camper!  Even if it's an old tiny one to
start.  Hope this helps.  Have fun!

   "Bill S" <indianabill68@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138744275.796573.94100@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
   Hello all,
   I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
   cross-country when I was a child back in the 70's. The bug has bitten
   and now I plan to sell my old Subaru legacy and the BMW. In their place
   I want to get a newer Subaru, the 6 cylinder Outback and a pop up
   trailer. It's just my wife and I. No kids or pets.
   the H6 Outback seems to be capable of towing a small pop up. I think
   the rating is somewhere around 2700-2900 with the tow package. Has
   anyone used this car to tow? I want to be able to traverse mountains
   without too much trouble ( I am familiar with the 75% rule). Is all
   wheel drive a good thing to have for towing?
   Secondly, I am looking for a good, used pop up under $5,000. We like
   the amenities like toilet, heat, stove, and possibly air conditioning.
   Sleeping space is not important since it's just the 2 of us. I have
   seen that there are a few trailers out there that have one bed on the
   end. Are there any advantages, disadvantages to such a design? Are
   there any models that some of you could recommend? In my internet
   research I have gotten familiar with the Coleman (Fleetwood) line and
   they seem to be ok but my knowledge is limited. How do they compare
   with other brands?
   Also, we will probably be doing some dry camping and I would like to
   know if some models have a way of supplying power when there is none.
   Is that enough questions at once?

   Bill
   Maryland, near DC
Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 03:03 GMT
Jimbo,
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping to keep my trailer choice small for
cost reasons and because the car we want will only allow it. An SUV or
pickup is not really an option as they are both too big and costly for
the 99% of the time that we won't be using it to tow. Maybe I will have
to do without some of the amenities. We are used to it, having spent
the last several years backpacking with a tent. I was just hoping that
there would be a model of trailer that is both small and has some
luxeries. The new Coleman Evolution (E 1) is pretty close to what I am
looking for but they are new and too expensive.
The solar panel thing sounds great! where do you get one of those
things?
Bill
Jimbo - 02 Feb 2006 02:49 GMT
Hey Bill.  Regarding the solar panel, you can get these a Camping World.  If you're not inclined to charge batteries when doing day trips, then I'd suggest as large of a solar panel as you can afford (and can carry space wise).  However, I might suggest on a cold winter's eve getting a six-pack of good beer (Sam Adams White Ale might be a place to start) and curl up with your computer and search solar panels.  Of course, I have no life and this something I would do (and have done).  There are probably better deals from Internet sites on certain types of solar panels.  

Regarding amenities, ya that's a tough thing.  Your remark about the 75% rule shows you have a clue about the margin of safety needed in tow ratings.  Armed with that important sensitivity, if you can find a camper that's got what you want and meets that rule, then you're okay.  However, at the risk of putting your family's safety at risk, here's a few other ways to look at this that might allow you to get a heavier trailer than might otherwise be a good idea.

Brakes are important.  So suppose you get a trailer that's much closer to the tow rating of the Subaru than 75%.  Make sure it has brakes.  One of the limitations of tow vehicles with low tow ratings is the braking system.  So compensate by putting brakes on the popup if it doesn't already have them.  Another issue is sway.  If your popup doesn't have hydraulic surge brakes, consider getting a sway bar and maybe even a weight distributing hitch.  This will tax the car less and make things more controllable.  Lastly, is engine power.  If you're going to run close to the weight limit of the car, don't go into the mountains because the elevation will rob you of precious engine power.  You might get a little power by running higher octane gas but that won't buy you all that much.  Lastly, weigh your car and trailer at a truck stop weigh station.  Ignorance is bliss but a badly overloaded RV setup = death.  So know *exactly* how overloaded you are so that if you overloaded a tad...it's an educated calculation that you're doing on purpose rather than falling into because you don't know any better.  And if you're going to run close to the max weightwise and not travel all that far from home, that might be more acceptable than if you plan to travel across the country that way.

Somebody should probably flame me for telling you this but you seem like a sensible guy...I think this might help you figure out what to do.  At the end of the day, be safe but whatever you do....camp!!!  :)

 Jimbo,
 Thanks for the advice. I was hoping to keep my trailer choice small for
 cost reasons and because the car we want will only allow it. An SUV or
 pickup is not really an option as they are both too big and costly for
 the 99% of the time that we won't be using it to tow. Maybe I will have
 to do without some of the amenities. We are used to it, having spent
 the last several years backpacking with a tent. I was just hoping that
 there would be a model of trailer that is both small and has some
 luxeries. The new Coleman Evolution (E 1) is pretty close to what I am
 looking for but they are new and too expensive.
 The solar panel thing sounds great! where do you get one of those
 things?
 Bill
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 00:35 GMT
> I've migrated to the dark side and bought a TT, but I've had lots of good
> times camping in a popup.

Same here.  Thirteen years with three growing girls in our popup.  The biggest
trip was five nights in Yellowstone and four in Grand Tetons National Parks.

http://www.nps.gov/yell/home.htm

http://www.nps.gov/grte/index.htm

> Power when dry camping?  You bet.  Two basic approaches.  One approach is to
> go buy a Honda EU1000 or EU2000 generator.

Dry camping is a regular thing for us since I got the EU2000i.

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/ModelDetail.asp?ModelName=eu2000i

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/ModelDetail.asp?ModelName=eu1000i

> Depending on several variables, you may even get the EU2000 to run
> the air which is real treat on a hot day.

Several variables, indeed.  The 2000i is officially NOT capable of running the
typical, 13,500-btu RV roof air.  The 2000i is rated at 1600-watts with
2000-watts SURGE.

It MIGHT be able to fire the compressor once the fan is running, but it would
surely have the generator running continuously at PEAK.  I wouldn't do that to
something I paid $1k for.

My big decision prior to generator purchase was whether or not it would run
the roof air.  If yes, it would take TWO people to transport the generator
(not very portable), if no, I could (and can) handle it myself.  I decided
that, if it was SOOOOOOO stinkin' HOT that I couldn't stand camping without
air conditioning, I have two choices:  Find an electrical hookup or stay home.

> Pros to this is it's easy and plenty of power.  Cons are cost and noise.

With the exception of the microwave and air conditioner, I can enjoy all the
comforts of home (hot and cold, running water, refrigerator, a flush toilet,
lights and a gas furnace) using only battery and propane.  I chose the
generator for the "pros" you cite.  Running the genset a couple of hours,
every other day, to recharge the battery is GREAT!

> A couple tips on grey water and black water when dry camping.  There's a lot
> of people out here that believe it's wrong to dump grey water (you'll have to
> listen to their points of view and decide for yourself).  But I'm in the camp
> (no pun intended) that believe it's okay.

In high use areas, I can see the need to restrict (ban) the emptying of gray
water on the ground.  Those areas include national park campgrounds.  
Otherwise, I usually drain the gray water on the ground.  While this practice
is aesthetically unpleasant to some, it's NOT nuclear waste after all.

>  With black water, never dump that into the brush period.

Well, certainly not DOWNWIND of it!   <big grin>

Seriously, you are right, of course.

> However, because popups have these neat cartridge like tanks,
> you can take it to the outhouse and dump it in there.

You are referring to a "cassette" toilet.  They are great but are found on
caomparatively FEW popup campers.  Most popup users have a portable toilet
with virtually the same convenience as the cassette toilet:  You simply take
it to a toilet and empty it.

> Very clean and no mess.  It's great.  I really *miss*
> being able to that in a TT.

Yeah, getting in line with the camper and tow vehicle to use the campground
dump can be boring.  Fortunately, I've been able to avoid that for the most
part.  We seem to stay longer on a Sunday afternoon than many of the weekend
RVers.
Signature

           :)
JR

2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000

Jimbo - 02 Feb 2006 02:10 GMT
For starters, this is the Mayberry newsgroup.  Very little spam, angst, and OT.  Just the way I like!  And, I wanted to expand on Mr. Redelfs comments on the EU2000.  Yes, the EU2000 is truly a marginal generator for air.  Other variables include elevation (I've been places out west where it would not do the job), AC model (some need too much surge...i.e. Dometic's are better than Coleman's I hear), and temperature.  If it gets really hot, the amount of surge needed to start the AC is higher than it is at a cooler temp (that's what I've been told anyway).  That said, I had a 13.5k BTU Dometic in my old popup and the EU2000 ran it provided the elevation wasn't too bad. I remember one trip to Everglades Nat'l Park in February '04 and it got into the high 80's and was humid in the mid-late afternoon.  So I figured, why not run the air while I'm charging the batteries?  Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.  That was nice.  Technology is wonderful so long as it works.  :)

Some more unsolicited advice:  tires.  Popups, like a lot of RV's, do not have enough cargo capacity.  My Jayco was rated 2100 dry and up to 2750 loaded.  But I really ran it close to 3200.  Perhaps one might suspect I had trouble with that?  Oh yes.  I lost tires.  Here's the fix.  If you go over the max weight in a popup, do two things (three really).  Be anal soup Nazi's (Seinfeld reference) about tire air pressure.  Then *never* run more than two or three seasons on a pair of tires.  And, if your particular camper allows, put a higher weight rated tire on your camper.  Okay...just thought of a fourth...slow down when it gets hot.  100 degrees and 75 miles an hour makes trailer tires cranky.  Just like I get cranky when I pull into a campsite and can't build a fire because it's raining  :)

 In article <kqUDf.48957$PL5.1612@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
  "Jimbo" <no@spam.com> wrote:

 > I've migrated to the dark side and bought a TT, but I've had lots of good
 > times camping in a popup.

 Same here.  Thirteen years with three growing girls in our popup.  The biggest
 trip was five nights in Yellowstone and four in Grand Tetons National Parks.

 http://www.nps.gov/yell/home.htm

 http://www.nps.gov/grte/index.htm

 > Power when dry camping?  You bet.  Two basic approaches.  One approach is to
 > go buy a Honda EU1000 or EU2000 generator.

 Dry camping is a regular thing for us since I got the EU2000i.

 http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/ModelDetail.asp?ModelName=eu2000i

 http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/ModelDetail.asp?ModelName=eu1000i

 > Depending on several variables, you may even get the EU2000 to run
 > the air which is real treat on a hot day.

 Several variables, indeed.  The 2000i is officially NOT capable of running the
 typical, 13,500-btu RV roof air.  The 2000i is rated at 1600-watts with
 2000-watts SURGE.

 It MIGHT be able to fire the compressor once the fan is running, but it would
 surely have the generator running continuously at PEAK.  I wouldn't do that to
 something I paid $1k for.

 My big decision prior to generator purchase was whether or not it would run
 the roof air.  If yes, it would take TWO people to transport the generator
 (not very portable), if no, I could (and can) handle it myself.  I decided
 that, if it was SOOOOOOO stinkin' HOT that I couldn't stand camping without
 air conditioning, I have two choices:  Find an electrical hookup or stay home.

 > Pros to this is it's easy and plenty of power.  Cons are cost and noise.

 With the exception of the microwave and air conditioner, I can enjoy all the
 comforts of home (hot and cold, running water, refrigerator, a flush toilet,
 lights and a gas furnace) using only battery and propane.  I chose the
 generator for the "pros" you cite.  Running the genset a couple of hours,
 every other day, to recharge the battery is GREAT!

 > A couple tips on grey water and black water when dry camping.  There's a lot
 > of people out here that believe it's wrong to dump grey water (you'll have to
 > listen to their points of view and decide for yourself).  But I'm in the camp
 > (no pun intended) that believe it's okay.

 In high use areas, I can see the need to restrict (ban) the emptying of gray
 water on the ground.  Those areas include national park campgrounds.  
 Otherwise, I usually drain the gray water on the ground.  While this practice
 is aesthetically unpleasant to some, it's NOT nuclear waste after all.

 >  With black water, never dump that into the brush period.

 Well, certainly not DOWNWIND of it!   <big grin>

 Seriously, you are right, of course.

 > However, because popups have these neat cartridge like tanks,
 > you can take it to the outhouse and dump it in there.

 You are referring to a "cassette" toilet.  They are great but are found on
 caomparatively FEW popup campers.  Most popup users have a portable toilet
 with virtually the same convenience as the cassette toilet:  You simply take
 it to a toilet and empty it.

 > Very clean and no mess.  It's great.  I really *miss*
 > being able to that in a TT.

 Yeah, getting in line with the camper and tow vehicle to use the campground
 dump can be boring.  Fortunately, I've been able to avoid that for the most
 part.  We seem to stay longer on a Sunday afternoon than many of the weekend
 RVers.
 --
             :)
 JR

 2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
 Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000
Tomes - 01 Feb 2006 03:10 GMT
Hi Bill.  Welcome to the entrance ramp of pop-upping.

We just purchased our second used pop-up, as our first one got smashed up in
a rear-ender coming home from our last trip in the fall.  We tow with a 98
Toyota Sienna.  I like this setup as the van has a long enough wheelbase to
remain stable at hiway speeds and can hold a bunch of stuff.  My first
reaction to your post is that the Subaru seems to me a bit short for
stability purposes, but I am pretty much unfamiliar with the Subaru line to
be authoritative on this at all.

When you look at what you will use to pull, the total rating will include
the camper loaded up with all your stuff, the car and the people and the
stuff in the car.  Don't underestimate how much stuff you will eventually
bring.  Figure more than whatever you are figuring on now <grin>.

You should be able to get a good used camper for under $5K.  It seems like
you say you want a small one, but then you list big one items as desired,
such as toilet, heat, and air conditioning - fridge too is another one.  My
old one had none of these and we really did not miss them.  They add weight
and cost.  The old one was a Coleman Destiny Rio Grande, and we liked it and
were really chagrinned to lose it.  It trailed very nicely once I put on
better tires.  It lived up to pretty hard abuse with 2 very active kids in
it (now 14 & 16).  It also had a storage compartment at the front which I
feel was essential for us to stash the bigger and heavier stuff that always
stays in there (like the life jackets, hanging lights, poles for the canopy,
toolbox, tarps, water hoses, electrical cords, toys...)

I have seen only one pop-up in all my camping travels that had one bed
coming out of one side only.  It looked really odd (just because it is
different is all) and the kids always looked forward to seeing it every year
(at the Falcon Ridge Folk Festival).  I had them believing for a fleeting
while that a one-armed man lived in it.  I am thinking that this might be
_really_ hard to find, especially used.  I don't think that there are
serious disadvantages - it will be that much lighter.  The bed extends out
over the hitch area - I imagine they have the balancing figured out.

Regarding other brands, my friend has a Jayco (IIRC) that he likes and has
held up fine, and we just bought a Coachmen that looks good.  I suggest that
you find folks that have them and let you into them to get the 'feel' of
each one.  Go to a campground or to a music festival.  Folks are generally
friendly and most like to show off their stuff in these places.

We do both amenity camping (hookups for water, electricity, sometimes even
cable) and field camping (just us and 5000+ other folks on a hay field, or
in a friend's father's lot with other friends.  When we have no power hookup
we just don't have it and it is no problem.  We are camping.  Batteries
rule.  We don't need a blender there.  We use coolers and ice and Coleman
lanterns.  The roaring fire lights up the musical instruments fine (well
except for the hammered dulcimer where I need to use the strap-on headlamp
thingy, lol).  When we have hookups, then it all gets plugged in (music too)
and we bring different stuff.  Think flexible - your needs and needed
equipment will differ in different environments and it is all good, just
different.

Good luck and come on back to this campfire with all of your other thoughts.
Tomes

> Hello all,
> I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Bill
> Maryland, near DC
Tomes - 01 Feb 2006 03:13 GMT
...and by the way we get 23 mpg in the Sienna as a daily driver.

> Hi Bill.  Welcome to the entrance ramp of pop-upping.
>
[quoted text clipped - 81 lines]
>> Bill
>> Maryland, near DC
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 00:40 GMT
> The roaring fire lights up the musical instruments fine (well
> except for the hammered dulcimer where I need to use the strap-on headlamp
> thingy, lol).

I want to go to THIS campout!  Imagine!
Get hammered and listen to dulcimer music!   <big grin>

Can I bring my Korg?

Signature

           :)
JR

Tomes - 02 Feb 2006 03:34 GMT
>> The roaring fire lights up the musical instruments fine (well
>> except for the hammered dulcimer where I need to use the strap-on
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Can I bring my Korg?

Actually, Jim, we do this about 3-4 times per year: twice at my friend's
dad's place where we all camp in his woods and get a roaring fire going for
Friday to Monday.  There we run wires from his shed and set up a band shell
so we can plug all of our stuff in (yep, that is hammered dulcimer and
washtub bass gone electric for my part [with homemade pickups]) and rock the
place out.  Then we go acoustic around the fire later on when it calms down
a bit.  Getting hammered is indeed part of the deal as well <grin>.  We even
have neighbors just show up and play with us too.  Korgs are welcome indeed.

Then we go to at least two folk music festivals where we listen to the
professionals on stage all day until about midnight and then have campfires
until dawn at least.  You never know what you will run into musically in
those places and it is extremely fun and broadening.
Tomes
Jim Redelfs - 01 Feb 2006 13:48 GMT
> I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
> cross-country when I was a child back in the 70's.

In the summer of 1968, my (divorced) mom rented a "tent trailer" from a local
rental place.  It had padded bunks and a table.  That's it.  The four of us
towed it from Omaha, Nebraska (middle USA) to Los Angeles, and back, that
summer.  At age 15 and not allowed to drive (or tow) on my Nebraska-only
Learner's Permit once we exited our state, I was the ONLY one that could
reasonably BACK the trailer!  That was my job!   :)

> The bug has bitten
> and now I plan to sell my old Subaru legacy and the BMW. In their place
> I want to get a newer Subaru, the 6 cylinder Outback and a pop up
> trailer. It's just my wife and I. No kids or pets.

When making serious plans for such a grand acquisition, never forget whether
or not kids and/or pets are in your camping future.  There is NO better thing
for a FAMILY to do together than camp.

> the H6 Outback seems to be capable of towing a small pop up.

I LOVE my sister's '96 Legacy L wagon.  She tows a VERY lightweight popup with
it.  To really tow with any CONFIDENCE, you need at least a V6.  With the H6,
and it's TINY tow rating, you will be VERY (got that? VERY) restricted as to
what you can "properly" haul - inside the Outback AND the trailer.

Make sure you know that a tow rating includes everything you put in the tow
vehicle, except a 150-lb driver, and the ENTIRE weight of the loaded trailer -
NOT just it's hitch weight.

> I am looking for a good, used pop up under $5,000. We like
> the amenities like toilet, heat, stove, and possibly air conditioning.

Remember that the odd and higher PROFILE of an air conditioner-equipped popup
can significantly impact towing fuel consumption, particularly behind a
low(er)-profile tow vehicle.

> Sleeping space is not important since it's just the 2 of us.

If that's all it will ever be, and you constrain yourselves to only the
SMALLEST, lightest trailer, $5k should buy you something in EXCELLENT
condition, perhaps barely used.

> I have seen that there are a few trailers out there that have one bed
> on the end. Are there any advantages, disadvantages to such a design?

Lighter weight.  Everything in this "arena" of RVing is about WEIGHT,
preferably the LACK thereof.

> Are there any models that some of you could recommend?

http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/element

> How do they compare with other brands?

They are among the best.

> Also, we will probably be doing some dry camping and I would like to
> know if some models have a way of supplying power when there is none.

Oh, man!  You need to hang out here for a while and perhaps even do some
hard-copy reading on RVing.  There's a LOT to know to make it a really
enjoyable experience, especially when dry camping.  All it takes is effort and
money.

> Is that enough questions at once?

Just remember two things:  Google is your friend.  Probably most of what you
need to know has been discussed numerous times within the dates archived by
Google.  And, two:  You can also ask here as we need every excuse we can get
to stay on topic with our discussions!  HA!
Signature

           :)
JR

2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000

Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 16:26 GMT
JR,
Thanks for the info. This site is on my favorites list. I learned
several years ago after I bought my Bimmer that forums can be a
wonderful source of information. I am interested in the smaller Element
but just have to find a used one to be in my price range. There are no
kids in the future and we have pets but they are cats, I'm not even
thinking about taking them along :) We were pretty set on getting an
Outback but I am reviewing that decision also. It's difficult because
we are really not SUV or pickup people but we want the all wheel drive
for the many day hikes we do in the mountains. Subaru seemed to be the
best option.
I am willing to forgo trailer size and amenities to make it work. We
are used to backpacking so keeping the weight down shouldn't be a
problem with us. I am more curious how a Subaru will handle while
towing a trailer that is well within it's weight range.
Bill S
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 00:49 GMT
> There are no kids in the future

With the just two of you for SURE, and as hikers and backpackers, I expect a
little, eight-foot box Coleman Taos (for example - used) would work nicely
behind a 6-cylinder Outback.  You'd still have to keep and eye on weight, but
you could probably do it properly and comfortably.

> I am willing to forgo trailer size and amenities to make it work.

Shop around for small popups.  As backpackers, you will revel in the simple
pleasure of simply sleeping OFF the ground and in the warm.

> I am more curious how a Subaru will handle while
> towing a trailer that is well within it's weight range.

I think the six-banger could do it properly.  It wouldn't be a ball of fire
going over the Continental Divide in Colorado, but how often do you plan to do
that?

Get an eight-foot box popup with a PROPER furnace and you can dry camp - WARM
- for days with nary an electrical outlet in sight.

Refrigerators, water pumps and built-in toilets add WEIGHT as well as expense.

Signature

           :)
JR

mac davis - 01 Feb 2006 17:31 GMT
set your priorities...
if the car us the one that you really want, pick a trailer that it will handle
safely...
If the goal is the trailer, take advantage of wanting both RV and TV (tow
vehicle) which most of us didn't have to start with: pick the trailer that is
going to do the job for you for the next couple of years or more, than shop for
a good TV for it...
Most folks get the trailer, hoping that the existing TV will pull it... then,
they want better towing and trade in for better tv, which causes the dreaded
"let's get a bigger trailer now" syndrome.. *g*

You might also go to http://www.goodsamclub.com/cforum/
which is a free forum for rv'ers and has a lot of different interest groups,
including popups and towing..

>Hello all,
>I have really grown fond of the memories of my family taking the pop up
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>Bill
>Maryland, near DC

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 19:19 GMT
Mac,
The priority is definitely the car. We have no problems keeping the
tent if we have to. I want to make sure I have explored all the
options. Your input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill S
Bill Toth - 01 Feb 2006 22:21 GMT
> Mac,
> The priority is definitely the car. We have no problems keeping the
> tent if we have to. I want to make sure I have explored all the
> options. Your input is appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Bill S

Then look at Aliners and Chalets, they have some light models. Best of
all setup is under a minute.
Bill S - 02 Feb 2006 05:10 GMT
Bill Toth,
I checked out the Chalet website and I love them! The smallest one is
just about perfect. Seems to be in the weight range, has a sink and
heater, well insulated, easy to set up, comes with trailer brakes. The
homepage even shows an Outback as the tow vehicle!
There is a dealer about 100mi away from me in PA. I'll have to take a
day trip and check them out.
Thanks!
mac davis - 02 Feb 2006 16:35 GMT
>Mac,
>The priority is definitely the car. We have no problems keeping the
>tent if we have to. I want to make sure I have explored all the
>options. Your input is appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Bill S

Bill.. as they say, "been there, done that"..

Get the car, and enjoy it.. maintain it and keep it a long time...

When the urge for a larger, more comfortable RV gets you, (and it will as you
get the habit and *groan* older), buy a 2nd vehicle, preferably a pickup or
large suv, to tow your new and next few rv's..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
tobe - 01 Feb 2006 18:45 GMT
In order to know how much you can really tow, you need to know more than the
infamous "tow ratings" provided by the manufacturer/dealer.  Ask your dealer
for the following numbers:
Curb weight of the car you want (weight without passengers, gear,
gasoline...)
GVWR - the gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or the maximum recommended weight of
the vehicle plus gas, passengers and gear.
GCWR - the Gross Combined Weight Rating - or the maximum recommended weight
of  BOTH the vehicle and the camper you will be towing PLUS all the
passengers, gear, supplies, gas, water, etc.

For example,
For the 2005 V-6 Outback,
The curb weight is 3,630 lbs.
The GVWR is 4,635 lbs

This means that the maximum you can load in the vehicle is 1005 pounds.
That's people, stuff, and gasoline.  Gas weighs about 8 lbs/gallon, and the
tank hold 16.9 gallons, so the gas itself will weigh about 135 pounds,
leaving 870 pounds maximum of people and stuff in the vehicle itself.  That
really isn't that much people and stuff, and it is not hard to get to that
weight.

The 'estimated' GCWR is 6,850 lbs (Trailer Life table).

Subtract the maximum loaded vehicle (GVWR) from this, and the maximum you
can tow is now only 2,215 pounds.  Hmmm, that advertised tow rating of 3000
pounds means they think you will have a loaded Outback weighing only 3,850
pounds, or only 220 pounds of gas plus people plus stuff!!

OK, with a realistic maximum tow rating now of 2,215 pounds, lets apply the
75% rule, especially since you will be going up mountains.  That computes to
1,661 pounds, maximum, you can tow.

Now, find out the curb weight of a pop-up you want to buy.  IT is usually
listed somewhere on the trailer.  However, that usually does NOT include the
options you get, such as the A/C, full propane tank, battery, awning, etc.
Also often listed is the GVWR or maximum weight of the trailer loaded with
accessories and gear for towing.  This is usually limited by the axle and
suspension, and you would be surprised at how little most pop-ups are rated
to carry over their curb weight.

Anyhow, now take the pop-up curb weight, add the weight of the accessories,
and add probably at least 100 pounds for normas 'stuff' you will put in
there, such as cooking gear, refrigerator contents, wastebaskets, utensils,
flashlights, and all the other zillion little things.  Now you have the
approximate actual weight of the loaded pop-up.

It is pretty hard to get any pop-up these days that, loaded, weighs 1,661
pounds or less.

Oh yeah, you need to make sure the pop-up has trailer brakes, as some
smaller ones do not.  DON'T tow in the mountains withoug trailer brakes.
Frank Tabor - 01 Feb 2006 19:01 GMT
On Wed, 01 Feb 2006 18:45:40 GMT, you wrote:

>In order to know how much you can really tow, you need to know more than the
>infamous "tow ratings" provided by the manufacturer/dealer.  Ask your dealer
>for the following numbers:
>Curb weight of the car you want (weight without passengers, gear,
>gasoline...)

Curb weight is no longer used. Empty weight is the correct term now
and it includes a full tank of gas and the driver.

>GVWR - the gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or the maximum recommended weight of
>the vehicle plus gas, passengers and gear.
>GCWR - the Gross Combined Weight Rating - or the maximum recommended weight
>of  BOTH the vehicle and the camper you will be towing PLUS all the
>passengers, gear, supplies, gas, water, etc.

GVWR and GCWR now include the weight of a tank of gas and the driver.

>For example,
>For the 2005 V-6 Outback,
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>smaller ones do not.  DON'T tow in the mountains withoug trailer brakes.
>
Signature

Frank Tabor

Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 19:35 GMT
"Curb weight is no longer used. Empty weight is the correct term now
and it includes a full tank of gas and the driver."

That may give me a few hundred more pounds of breathing room over
tobe's calculations, correct?
Frank Tabor - 01 Feb 2006 20:41 GMT
On 1 Feb 2006 11:35:01 -0800, you wrote:

>"Curb weight is no longer used. Empty weight is the correct term now
>and it includes a full tank of gas and the driver."
>
>That may give me a few hundred more pounds of breathing room over
>tobe's calculations, correct?

Yes, 150 is the default used for calculations.  
Signature

Frank Tabor

Bill S - 01 Feb 2006 19:31 GMT
Tobe,
Good information. I have decided that trailer brakes are a likely
necessity. The Fleetwood "Neon" is something I may look at. It is rated
1500 GVW but doesnt have any extras. I may be able to add a couple
without adding too much weight.
It's still a bit confusing because when I visit Subaru forums and pose
the same questions,  you get replies from people who tow 2,000 lbs in
their 4 cylinder Forester/Outback and report that they don't have any
problems. Most of them do, however, recommend the trailer brakes.
Frank Tabor - 01 Feb 2006 20:42 GMT
On 1 Feb 2006 11:31:53 -0800, you wrote:

>Tobe,
>Good information. I have decided that trailer brakes are a likely
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>their 4 cylinder Forester/Outback and report that they don't have any
>problems. Most of them do, however, recommend the trailer brakes.

Transmission?  How many with automatics, and how many times have they
rebuilt the transmission?  They may get away with it if they have the
manual.
Signature

Frank Tabor

Fred Boer - 01 Feb 2006 22:32 GMT
Dear Bill:

Like I said... lots of advice!

If you had asked me before my long trip about towing with my Legacy, I might
have had a different opinion, probably similar to that you have gotten from
other Subie owners. However, the worn tires didn't lie... And my trailer is
theoretically less than 1000 pounds! For a number of years, I towed my
trailer with a 98 hp Subaru Loyale - and I would have said that things were
fine! When I got to the bottom of a mountain in a cloud of brake smoke, with
my brakes completely faded away, and only luck saving me and my family from
an accident, well, then I finally realized I had an inappropriate tow
vehicle. Obviously the brakes on the Outback are much, much better than the
Loyale, and I sure do understand the attraction of the Subaru! I really like
driving mine! You are obviously doing some good research - at this point,
all I can say is good luck, and I hope whatever you end up doing works well
for you!

Be sure to visit here and report on your experiences!

Cheers!
Fred

> Tobe,
> Good information. I have decided that trailer brakes are a likely
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> their 4 cylinder Forester/Outback and report that they don't have any
> problems. Most of them do, however, recommend the trailer brakes.
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 00:54 GMT
> It's still a bit confusing because when I visit Subaru forums and pose
> the same questions,  you get replies from people who tow 2,000 lbs in
> their 4 cylinder Forester/Outback and report that they don't have any
> problems. Most of them do, however, recommend the trailer brakes.

Remember, it is unlikely that you'll get someone to post anything like, "I was
a complete idiot:  The transmission swap cost as much as the trailer!"

Signature

           :)
JR

Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 00:51 GMT
> DON'T tow in the mountains withoug trailer brakes.

For that matter, don't tow ANYWHERE without trailer brakes.

Signature

           :)
JR

Bill S - 02 Feb 2006 03:55 GMT
Ha! Ha! OK, OK I get it. Thou shall not tow without trailer brakes! :)
Seriously, you guys have all been a great help.
I talked to my Subaru repair guy today and he thought the 6 cylinder
Outback is the way to go if I want a Subaru that can tow a small
trailer.
Here are my tentative conclusions:
1. Get the car, add the tow package.(it will be rated about 2900 lbs
after tow package)
2. find a trailer with a dry weight well below 1500lbs
3. install trailer brakes, if the trailer does not have them
4. pack carefully, weighing the total loaded and keep the loaded
trailer weight under say, about 1600lbs.
5. Tell the wife to go on a diet, er...no scratch that.
6. keep the added weight in the car to a minumum say, under 100lbs
6. do a test run, go weigh everything at a truck stop just to make sure
7. Make sure the solar panel is powering the fridge that is full of
beer.
8. Take lots of pics so I can show them off to you guys when we get
back

Hows that?
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 04:32 GMT
> Ha! Ha! OK, OK I get it. Thou shall not tow without trailer brakes! :)

Be aware that most/all 8-ft box popups did not have electric brakes until only
a couple or three years ago.  My friend's Taos and my sister's Viking do NOT
have electric brakes.  Trailer brakes are DEFINITELY worth holding-out for.

> 1. Get the car, add the tow package.

Generally, tow packages are a FACTORY option.  Of course, Subaru may do it
differently, but make sure SOMEONE from the dealership or Subaru signs-off on
the car's tow rating.  Just adding a transmission cooler, in MOST cases, does
NOT a tow package make.

> 3. install trailer brakes, if the trailer does not have them

Forget this expensive item.  Get a trailer that already HAS them.  There are
many good reasons for this.

> 5. Tell the wife to go on a diet, er...no scratch that.

Hikers and backpackers.  Yeah, right.   :)

> 6. keep the added weight in the car to a minumum say, under 100lbs

It doesn't matter WHERE it is.  Hauling it in the trailer might even provide a
better towing experience.

> 6. do a test run

Camp a couple nights in your driveway.  Your neighbors always SUSPECTED you
were weird.  Now's your chance to PROVE IT!  HA!   :)

> go weigh everything at a truck stop

You've been doing your homework.  You should weigh the camper when you FIRST
get it, with NOTHING on board except a full water tank (if present) and full
propane tank.  Then you add all your stuff, including the flooded, lead acid,
deep cycle battery and watch the back end of your Outback hunker down.  
<sigh>  Then, when you're loaded and ON YOUR WAY to go camping, you weigh it
again.  The difference will AMAZE you.

> 7. Make sure the solar panel is powering the fridge

Actually, the propane GAS is powering the fridge.  (Go figure.)

An official, RV refrigerator will add a LOT of weight to a small camper.  
Since most popupers bring an ice chest/cooler ANYWAY, a refrigerator could be
considered extraneous.  The small ones on popup campers are almost too small
to be of much value.

However, keeping food cold (and, therefore, SAFE) without having to run to
town to get more ice is a BIG luxury/advantage.

> 8. Take lots of pics so I can show them off
> to you guys when we get back

If you're LUCKY, you WON'T qualify for entry into the Stupid Popup Tricks Hall
of Fame.
Signature

           :)
JR

2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000

meldx - 02 Feb 2006 12:53 GMT
I didn't even taught that tow packages existed for cars...?

Mel

Jim Redelfs a écrit:

>>Ha! Ha! OK, OK I get it. Thou shall not tow without trailer brakes! :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 54 lines]
> If you're LUCKY, you WON'T qualify for entry into the Stupid Popup Tricks Hall
> of Fame.
Jim Redelfs - 02 Feb 2006 13:40 GMT
> I didn't even taught that tow packages existed for cars...?

My 1982 Chevrolet Caprice Classic station wagon did NOT.

My 1992 Chevrolet Caprice station wagon DID.

Many PASSENGER CARS (most?) probably do NOT have an official "Tow Package"
option anymore.  More likely, they are simply rated to tow xxxx-lbs as is and
that's it.  In that case, adding stuff like an auxiliary automatic
transmission cooler is a GOOD idea despite NOT RAISING the official tow rating.

Then there's overkill.  Like in my sig.  I planned to get a BIGGER TT (travel
trailer) during the life of my Silverado but now, I am not so sure.  We really
like our current camper.  I have upfitted it enough that I am really reluctant
to consider starting over with a new rig.  Besides, with the WonderWagon now
MINE, I have OTHER uses for the new-found money.  Wotta trap.   <sigh>
Signature

           :)
JR

2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000

mac davis - 02 Feb 2006 16:32 GMT
>An official, RV refrigerator will add a LOT of weight to a small camper.  
>Since most popupers bring an ice chest/cooler ANYWAY, a refrigerator could be
>considered extraneous.  The small ones on popup campers are almost too small
>to be of much value.

Jim.. just to be nit picky... I used to agree with the above until I helped a
friend change frig's in his rv... that sucker weighed a LOT less than an ice
chest of the same size, full of ice...  *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Jim Redelfs - 03 Feb 2006 01:39 GMT
> frig's in his rv... that sucker weighed a LOT less than an ice
> chest of the same size, full of ice...  *g*

A good point.  Now that you mention it, I don't recall trying to LIFT the
(dead) refrigerator my RV guy extracted from our popup.

The difference, then, would be:

1.  RV fridge & cooler full of ice
or
2.  Cooler full of ice.

That is, again, given my believe that most popupers still bring along an ice
chest/cooler whether or not they have one of those TINY refrigerators "on" the
floor.

I was very dismayed at the relatively short life of the refrigerator that came
on my Starcraft.  It died after 7-8 years.  They wanted close to $600 to
replace it - back then!  All that for the privilege of crawling on your hands
and knees to see what's in the BACK of the devilish thing on the floor.  After
awhile, you simply resign yourself to UNPACKING the thing onto the floor to
get whatever was in the back, then loading it all back up again.

The surprisingly LARGE space it occupied was turned into a HUGE storage
cabinet.  Leslie used it for her largest pots and pans and other big stuff. We
never missed the fridge.

Now that we are in a TT, it would be a different matter:  We virtually never
bring an ice chest.  We use the large, double-door refrigerator and keep (and
make) ice in the freezer compartment.  At least, now I don't have to get down
on my hands and knees to get the butter from the fridge!  That got old.
Signature

           :)
JR

2000 Skamper Ultra 249 TT
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Vortec 8100 - Allison 1000

mac davis - 03 Feb 2006 04:33 GMT
>Now that we are in a TT, it would be a different matter:  We virtually never
>bring an ice chest.  We use the large, double-door refrigerator and keep (and
>make) ice in the freezer compartment.  At least, now I don't have to get down
>on my hands and knees to get the butter from the fridge!  That got old.

Funny, we always bring one now that we have the TT...
maybe partly because we have the space and the TV to handle it?

I think the main 2 reasons are to have ice along for the wife's blender drinks
and to get another beer without tracking dirt or sand through the trailer...
or, it could be that I'm used to having the ice chest in the driveway on summer
nights.. *g*

Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Jim Redelfs - 03 Feb 2006 05:04 GMT
> Funny, we always bring one now that we have the TT...
> maybe partly because we have the space and the TV to handle it?

I "hear" ya.  I bring WAAAY too much crap, just because I can.

> I think the main 2 reasons are to have ice along for the
> wife's blender drinks

Blender?!?  We don need no steenkin' BLENDER!

I just fill-up the KOA mug with ice, burn the hell out of it with Captain
Morgan and add maybe a half can of Coca Cola.

(Oh, gee.  The tacky lights quit.  Who cares? <grin>)

> and to get another beer without tracking dirt or sand through the trailer...

Our first, BIG outing with our NEW popup was a week of DRY CAMPING in the
shade of the treeline on the shores of a big (manmade) lake.  There was a
Class A on the beach.  It was obvious that they simply didn't WORRY about
tracking-in anything.  They just left the door open and there was a sand TRAIL
up the stairs and into the rig.

After one week of hauling a LOT of water and keeping up with keeping the sand
OUT of our living space, I decided their way wasn't all that bad.  It's a lot
of WORK to camp on a beach and not LIVE with the sand inside your camper.

As anal as I was, we still brought home a cup or two of sand.  But, it was a
GREAT time!

> it could be that I'm used to having the ice chest
> in the driveway on summer nights.. *g*

Hmmmm...  It's a possibility!

> > https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

This was fun.  On a SECURE server, no less (I assume).
Signature

           :)
JR

mac davis - 03 Feb 2006 16:15 GMT
>> Funny, we always bring one now that we have the TT...
>> maybe partly because we have the space and the TV to handle it?
>
>I "hear" ya.  I bring WAAAY too much crap, just because I can.

yup.. I tell folks getting into trailers to figure on 500 pounds of cargo at the
beginning and doubling that in the first 5 or 6 trips... seems like the list of
things that you "need" along keeps getting bigger and bigger... chairs, lights,
table, etc, etc....

>Blender?!?  We don need no steenkin' BLENDER!
>
>I just fill-up the KOA mug with ice, burn the hell out of it with Captain
>Morgan and add maybe a half can of Coca Cola.

She likes to make mudslides and crap for the neighbors... IMO, beer is a lot
easier to mix.. *g*

>(Oh, gee.  The tacky lights quit.  Who cares? <grin>)

Don't even go there... if she had her way, you could land planes around our
trailer at night...

>> and to get another beer without tracking dirt or sand through the trailer...
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>As anal as I was, we still brought home a cup or two of sand.  But, it was a
>GREAT time!

We started out with a woven RV mat and have added a 2nd one... really work great
because the sand sifts through them and doesn't get tracked through the
trailer... (another thing we can't agree on.. I'd rather not have ANY carpet in
the unit..)

>> > https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
>
>This was fun.  On a SECURE server, no less (I assume).
I think so... frontpage says it is... space just came with the cable internet...
( I guess I forgot to change the sig after the woodturning group again)

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
Jim Redelfs - 03 Feb 2006 23:54 GMT
> I'd rather not have ANY carpet in the unit..)

I agree, wholeheartedly!   :)

Of course, my Newell will have HEATED TILE throughout!  Hehehehe!
Signature

           :)
JR

mac davis - 02 Feb 2006 16:28 GMT
>Ha! Ha! OK, OK I get it. Thou shall not tow without trailer brakes! :)
>Seriously, you guys have all been a great help.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>Hows that?

good start, but we can probably add a few (hundred) things to your list:

9.  test tow the popup as a condition of sale... they say "it will tow it"...
you decide, on a test tow, if it will tow it safely..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
 
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