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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / April 2006A sign it's time to repack the bearings???????
Our camper is 8 years old and we have probably put 6k-7k miles on it. I have never had the bearings repacked and I was wondering if there was a sign that it was time. If I remember right someone said here many moons ago to feel of the cap and if it felt warm/hot it was time. During our last trip I felt both after driving about 200 miles and they were both cool. Is this a good sign to go by or should I go ahead and get it done? 1998 Jayco Cascade with 13" wheels. > Our camper is 8 years old and we have probably put 6k-7k miles on it. I > have never had the bearings repacked and I was wondering if there was a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > cool. Is this a good sign to go by or should I go ahead and get it done? > 1998 Jayco Cascade with 13" wheels. Get it done or do it yourself. Many recommend doing it every year. You don't need your trips ruined by with breakdown. I check my wheel temperatures every time I get a chance. http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearings.html It should be done at the start of every season, I purchase bearing Buddy, which allows me to lube the bearing via a zerk fitting Searcher > It should be done at the start of every season, I purchase bearing Buddy, > which allows me to lube the bearing via a zerk fitting > > Searcher Bearing buddies are not a replacement for packing bearings. They are made for boat trailers to keep the water out. >> It should be done at the start of every season, I purchase bearing >> Buddy, which allows me to lube the bearing via a zerk fitting [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Bearing buddies are not a replacement for packing bearings. They are > made for boat trailers to keep the water out. Forgot to add this has been discussed again and again on these groups and forums: http://www.woodalls.com/forums/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15989026.cfm http://www.tldirectory.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15156967/gotom sg/15162756.cfm http://popupcamping.tripod.com/popfaq.html I have had bearing buddies on my trailer for what 10 years now, Replaced two sets of tires and when I did take out the bearings to replace them, I found that they were in as good a condition as the new ones, no need for replacement but I did repack them nonetheless. That was about 2001. No complaints here (I do NOT have brakes on the trailer though). Just because one group says not to and the other say go ahead, you can only rely on one thing, that is your own better judgement based on your own knowlegde. I tried it, it worked, why mess with a good thing. Searcher > I have had bearing buddies on my trailer for what 10 years now, Replaced two > sets of tires and when I did take out the bearings to replace them, I found [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Searcher Not just multiple groups say not to, also anyone who know anything about bearing say that. They do not provide lubrication to the inside bearings. Just because you "got away" with using them is not a valid argument that they are "a good thing". They are fine for keeping water out but don't provide lubrication for the inside bearing. Since you don't have brakes you have a very light trailer, therefore I don't expect you would have the bearing problems experienced by heavier units. I know people that have gone for 10 years without doing anything and haven't had any problems. Sure wouldn't recommend or call it a "good thing". Many trailers are now coming with the EZ Lube axles. They perform very well: http://www.dexteraxle.com/e_z_lube_system > Many trailers are now coming with the EZ Lube axles. They perform very > well: My 1999 Viking came with the Dexter EZ lube axle (no brakes). The manual diagram clearly shows that using the grease zerk pushes grease down the middle of the axle spindle, then around and through the inner bearing, then through the outer bearing into the hub. Both the inner and outer bearings are lubricated this way. What the manual doesn't say is how often one should inspect these bearings, and whether changing them involves the same procedure. I always put the camper up on blocks for the winter (September to May) and move the wheels about once a month to a new position. The manual actually recommends not only to put the camper up on blocks, but to also remove the wheels! > What the manual doesn't say is how often one should inspect these > bearings, and whether changing them involves the same procedure. This link may help: http://www.dexteraxle.com/faq_s#29 Jeff nice link >> What the manual doesn't say is how often one should inspect these >> bearings, and whether changing them involves the same procedure. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Jeff >> Many trailers are now coming with the EZ Lube axles. They perform very >> well: [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > recommends not only to put the camper up on blocks, but to also remove the > wheels! Dexter still says to check them ever 12 months which is just as time consuming as packing. However, with what you are doing I sure would be willing to stretch that a lot. I think that putting it up on blocks and moving the wheels prevents a lot of troubles. I used to to that when I had lighter weight trailers. Great link .. exactly what I was looking for to do this service myself the first time. Thanks > > Our camper is 8 years old and we have probably put 6k-7k miles on it. I > > have never had the bearings repacked and I was wondering if there was a [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearings.html >Our camper is 8 years old and we have probably put 6k-7k miles on it. I >have never had the bearings repacked and I was wondering if there was a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >cool. Is this a good sign to go by or should I go ahead and get it done? >1998 Jayco Cascade with 13" wheels. wow.. you've been VERY lucky... IMHO, if the hubs start getting warm, it's telling you that you're way past time to repack and close to replacement... Get your hands dirty once a year and consider it a mini insurance policy against worry... I have a dual axle TT and after the 1st 2 times (both with a friend that had done it for years) I've gotten it down to about a 1 hour job... and most of that time is jacking, running lug bolts on & off, etc... Should be a short and easy job on a pop-up Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm > running lug bolts on & off, Why? Just knock the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and castellated nut, then remove the whole wheel and hub as one. Lots easier and faster.  SignatureFrank Tabor DOH! >> running lug bolts on & off, > > Why? Just knock the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and > castellated nut, then remove the whole wheel and hub as one. Lots > easier and faster. >> running lug bolts on & off, > >Why? Just knock the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and >castellated nut, then remove the whole wheel and hub as one. Lots >easier and faster. Sorry, Frank.. you're right.. Senior moment... I check the brakes at the same time and should have mentioned that... Thor replaced all 4 sets of shoes when I found heat cracks in them at 2,000 miles.. Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm >> running lug bolts on & off, > >Why? Just knock the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and >castellated nut, then remove the whole wheel and hub as one. Lots >easier and faster. So, what's the easiest way to knock the dust cover off? I have a 1990 Starcraft Starmaster that I am getting ready for the season. Jaminn aka Don Williams >>> running lug bolts on & off, >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Starcraft Starmaster that I am getting ready for the season. >Jaminn aka Don Williams A rubber hammer to move it slightly, then a large pair of channel locks to remove it. It's pressed on. To replace it, line it up, and gently tap it into place with the same rubber hammer. After washing the bearings in kerosene, air dry them, then place in a sandwich baggie with about a 1/2 cup of grease and then squeeze the grease through the bearing. To replace the bearings, while turning the wheel, tighten the nut till the wheel stops and then back off 1/4 turn. Line up the hole and replace the cotter pin. Or, following the manufacturers directions, torque the nut to the proper setting, then back off 1/4 turn. SignatureFrank Tabor >>> running lug bolts on & off, >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Starcraft Starmaster that I am getting ready for the season. >Jaminn aka Don Williams I use a rubber mallet from the 99 cent store... Hit it on the side of the dust cover (lightly), alternating from side to side until loose enough to take off by hand.. PLEASE don't use the little rim to try prying them off with a screwdriver.. Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm >PLEASE don't use the little rim to try prying them off with a screwdriver.. > >Mac Thanks guys for the response. Of course, prying it off with a screwdriver is the first thing that comes to mind. I'll give the rubber mallet a try. Jaminn aka Don Williams > Our camper is 8 years old and we have probably put 6k-7k miles on it. I > have never had the bearings repacked and I was wondering if there was a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > cool. Is this a good sign to go by or should I go ahead and get it done? > 1998 Jayco Cascade with 13" wheels. I would repack now. I always have put bearing buddies on all my trailers,most only use them on boat trailers.I find it insurance of a safe trip worth the cost |
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