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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2006Starcraft Wiring Connector
Hi, This is my first post to this newsgroup though I've been lurking, reading and learning for a couple months now. I wish I checked out this group last summer when we were considering buying a pop-up trailer. We ended up buying an 87 Starcraft off craigslist, the biggest Starcraft they made that year. It has brakes, a 2-way fridge, a battery (of course), and a brake controller that's mounted to the frame of the trailer. We had it hooked up last summer, but I don't think it's working, and that's not the best way to control the brakes so I had one installed into my 03 Tacoma, along with the full 7-way connector. The shop installed it all with out having the trailer, and I tested it out when I got it home and at least all the lights work (brake lights, turn, tail). That's good, at least! Now, I need to do the rest myself and get the +12V and brake controller wiring connected properly on the trailer side. You may hear about my adventures in the coming weeks. Right now, I'd like to ask about the connector that's on the trailer. Here's a picture of the pigtail and then a closeup of the square connector that plugs into the socket in the trailer frame. http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/entire_pigtail.jpg http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/trailer_end.jpg Now, this square-ish connector that plugs into the trailer frame is what came with the rig. I haven't been able to find a connector like that any where. Does anyone know what's up with this odd connector, where I can get a replacement (one of the wires has been cut real short), and if I can't, what are my options? Thanks much. Look forward to being a part of this group and sharing my experiences and experience once I gain more. For instance, I've already retrofitted a 12V water pump, and installed a 12V socket so my wife and daughter can run their DVD player while I'm out at night searching for DSOs with my 8" Dob. -Rob San Jose, CA Looks like the harness you have adapts whatever is on the trailer to a standard trailer 7 wire connector. Why not use it? Or you could trace the adapter you have and then cut the trailers connector and add a new 7 wire connector with a longer harness if needed. The only wire that goes from the brake controller to the trailer is the brake wire (Blue) itself. > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > -Rob > San Jose, CA > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > -Rob > San Jose, CA Do you have an ohm meter? Trace out the wires from the 7 pin connector to the 8 pin. Then you have an idea of what they are for. Here you can see what the 7 pin wires are looking at the RV connector: Under "Contents" "Wiring the 7 pole RV Plug": http://www.rverscorner.com/wiring/index.html I am guessing the controller on the trailer is some sort of inertia activated device. If so, it will have 12 volts and ground coming in and a wire to the brakes. That's the one you have to move to the 7 pin connector. Here is what the inside view of the connectors look like. Pin 2 (Blue) being the wire that hooks to the brakes. http://marksrv.com/wiring.htm Does it have a brake away switch? If so the wires on it run from the trailer battery to the same blue brake wire from the controller. I might buy a new 7 pin harness. For example the one at Northern Tool: http://tinyurl.com/jrkbx You can probably find them most elsewhere. WalMart? >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 72 lines] > >You can probably find them most elsewhere. WalMart? Rich, if he has the inertia brakes, then there will be hydraulic lines going to the brakes, and there won't be any magnets. Just a wheel cylinder on each wheel. I've never seen electric surge brakes, but I could be wrong.  SignatureFrank Tabor >>> Hi, >>> [quoted text clipped - 76 lines] > cylinder on each wheel. I've never seen electric surge brakes, but I > could be wrong. By inertia I mean a pendulum type device. Of course I have no idea of what that box might be. And I doubt that trailer would have hydraulic. So what else could the box be? > So what else could the box be? I had a (bought new) '87 Starcraft, too. (Galaxy) The "box" he is referring to, I'm betting, is simply the deadman switch and lanyard. For model year '87, Starcraft reduced the wheel size to 12-inches and the brakes to 7-inches. It was a VERY BAD MOVE. With properly adjusted and controlled brakes, they "almost" slowed the trailer. When I retrofitted to 13-inch wheels (same axle and brakes), when applying FULL power to the brakes, I could barely feel them working. The 7-inch brakes on the Dexter axle of that year (and the next 2-3 years until Starcraft went BACK 10-inch brakes) were/are worthless. Signature:) JR >> So what else could the box be? > > I had a (bought new) '87 Starcraft, too. (Galaxy) > > The "box" he is referring to, I'm betting, is simply the deadman switch and > lanyard. The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it was a Tekonsha box. > The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very > certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it > was a Tekonsha box. Yeah, and I just looked at the pic he linked to. I've never seen anything like it. There appears to be a potentiometer at the bottom. A gain/sensitivity control? Weird. An electric brake SURGE control? Signature:) JR >> The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very >> certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >I've never seen anything like it. There appears to be a potentiometer at the >bottom. A gain/sensitivity control? Weird. An electric brake SURGE control? The only difference between this and surge brakes is that the hitch isn't articulated. Hydraulic surge brakes have a collapsible section in the tongue that activates the cylinder that provides the hydraulic fluid to the brakes. SignatureFrank Tabor >> The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very >> certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I've never seen anything like it. There appears to be a potentiometer at the > bottom. A gain/sensitivity control? Weird. An electric brake SURGE control? Yeah, or you might just think of it as a trailer mounted inertia brake control. Not a bad idea if the trailer is going to be used by a lot of different vehicles. For example a rental unit. I wonder how they set the gain. Take a bit more work if you had to get out to set the gain each time but once set it should work with all vehicles. That type of device is more common in the commercial truck field. Haven't noticed them in RVs. Yep, it's definitely a trailer-mounted intertia-type brake controller. I think I mistyped last night; I meant to say that you can see the Gain Controller (even says so on the sticker on the bottom side) knob on the bottom. The shop that I took the rig to last year hooked it up and said it was working, and they did give me instructions on setting it. That meant getting out of the car and giving it a little adjustment, more or less. I only took one trip with that thing connected, about 140 miles south of my home. Not sure if the brakes were working or not; no hills and my first time with a trailer with brakes; not sure what to expect. Then when we got to the destination and parked, I heard a little buzzing/humming sound from the right side wheel area. Seems the brake was doing something funny in there. I disconnected the red wire at the box (you can see it in the picture, just hanging there, pointing up) and the buzzing stopped. Not sure what that's about, but I'm sure it'll be back. I'll get to that when it's time, after my new controller and wiring are all hooked up. I'll bring up the question about the brake noise on a fresh thread in this same group. -Rob >>> The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very >>> certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > device is more common in the commercial truck field. Haven't noticed > them in RVs. >Yep, it's definitely a trailer-mounted intertia-type brake controller. >I think I mistyped last night; I meant to say that you can see the Gain [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > >-Rob Sounds like the brake controller is hanging up. Again, let me mention that you should not have both brake controllers connected at the same time. Use one or the other. I would suggest that since you have a new controller in the vehicle, have the one on the tongue disconnected and bypassed. Rich, help me out here. I don't think two brake controllers hooked up together is a safe or prudent thing to do. SignatureFrank Tabor >> Yep, it's definitely a trailer-mounted intertia-type brake controller. >> I think I mistyped last night; I meant to say that you can see the Gain [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > Rich, help me out here. I don't think two brake controllers hooked up > together is a safe or prudent thing to do. I am quite certain that it is not hooked up. Since the idea of that trailer mounted unit is to allow it to be pulled with any vehicle it seems an obvious thing to do (doesn't mean that is what they did!!). That is going to be the job for Rob. He will have to move the blue wire from the controller to the 8 pin connector. He can only hope there is an available pin there. Rob, when you were looking at the connector did you note any unused pins wires there? It should be the same pin that leads to the brake control on the 7 pin harness. If I were installing that trailer mounted unit the easy method would be to cut the brake wire to the 8 pin and tie it back. > That is going to be the job for Rob. He will have to move the blue > wire from the controller to the 8 pin connector. He can only hope there [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > the easy method would be to cut the brake wire to the 8 pin and tie it > back. I think I'm in good shape with that stock 8-pin connector. It has only 6 pins actually available (including ground) with 6 wires coming out of the back of it, and the colors all match the standard round 7-pin connector, including the blue one for the brakes. The only one that's not connected is the black one. That one's been cut down to about less than an inch, so I'll need to be real careful and splice another black wire to it. This is the main reason I'd like to get a replacement. This black wire is a) cut down real short, and b) it doesn't seem to be a 10-gauge wire, which is what I need to run that fridge. -Rob >> That is going to be the job for Rob. He will have to move the blue >> wire from the controller to the 8 pin connector. He can only hope [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > -Rob A short run of smaller wire will not affect the overall resistance very much. Obviously that is what the original trailer used. I only wonder why they cut it back. >> Yep, it's definitely a trailer-mounted intertia-type brake controller. >> I think I mistyped last night; I meant to say that you can see the Gain [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > Rich, help me out here. I don't think two brake controllers hooked up > together is a safe or prudent thing to do. Frank, Thinking over your question a bit more, without seeing what is inside of the box I wouldn't know what might happen if two controllers were hooked in parallel. As I said Tekonsha warns about activating the brake away switch when hooked to the tow vehicle. And as I said I did that and got away with it, not doing damage to the Prodigy. Most likely I would not expect damage. If the circuit is what I expect it the one putting out the most voltage would take control of the brakes. The units probably have a transistor or diode output and the one with the lower output would see a "back-bias" and probably not be damaged. Not a recommended practice anyway. For that reason I would expect that anyone mounting a trailer mounted unit would remove the brake wire to the tow vehicle. >> The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very >> certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > bottom. A gain/sensitivity control? Weird. An electric brake SURGE > control? Was the way most of the in car brake controllers worked a few years ago. >>> The switch as he points out is mounted directly below. I am very >>> certain now that is a trailer mounted brake control. He just said it [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Was the way most of the in car brake controllers worked a few years ago. This one is better. It is an inertia type controller. Probably has a pendulum like the earlier dash mounted Tekonsha. And of course even the latest like the Prodigy have gain control too. Thanks for the responses, everyone. What I'm gathering from the responses so far is that unless I keep the connector I have, I'll have to switch over to the standard 7-pin round style because this 8-pin thing the trailer came with isn't available. True? That's too bad; the male connector on the frame is built-in very nicely from the factory; check it out (you can also see the breakaway switch underneath): http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/trailer_connector.jpg Yep, I've got a VOM meter and have traced everything out, and everything's been connected correctly, and the wire color scheme from this odd connector seem to be standard. The reason I'm considering abandoning this connector is for two reasons. One, the black wire (+12v) coming out the back of the 8-pin plug has been cut really short. I can probably still connect up to it, but it would be tight, and also the wire size is probably too small to run my fridge while I'm driving. Second, the connector is near 20 yrs old and I'm sure they're not in best of shape. The brake controller that I had installed is a Prodigy. That choice was based on what I read in this group. The trailer does indeed have a breakaway switch. If I can still use that, I'd love to. And it's all electric brakes. I think I can figure out how to connect up the black (+12V) wire to the trailer battery for charging. My next question is about connecting to the brakes while maintaining the breakaway switch. Rich, you briefly mentioned it, but if there's a diagram somewhere, that would be most helpful. For instance, the blue wire comes from the tow vehicle then on the trailer, T's off to go directly to the brakes, right? Is it that simple (without the breakaway)? Then how does it work with the breakaway? Thanks again! -Rob San Jose, CA > Do you have an ohm meter? Trace out the wires from the 7 pin connector > to the 8 pin. Then you have an idea of what they are for. [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > You can probably find them most elsewhere. WalMart? > Thanks for the responses, everyone. > > What I'm gathering from the responses so far is that unless I keep the > connector I have, I'll have to switch over to the standard 7-pin round > style because this 8-pin thing the trailer came with isn't available. > True? Still not sure what it is you're trying to do. Why not cut the 8 pin off the trailer and connect the wires directly to a standard 7 wire connector? You probably can find the 8 pin connector you have and a mating connector for it from an electrical supply outlet such as Newark, Allied etc. Molex probably makes a connector. Starcraft might even sell it if needed. To me though, the simplest thing is to get rid of it. > Thanks for the responses, everyone. > [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > -Rob > San Jose, CA Yes, it's that simple. Then the wire from the break away ties to that same wire. I like the prodigy. I have had a couple Tekonsha types and they are all good. Even the little Envoy. But Prodigy has the latest technology. Sensor instead of a pendulum. Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was correct that the brake controller box you have mounted on the trailer is some sort of electrical device. I never saw one but I have not seen a trailer with hydraulic brakes for 30 or 40 years (doesn't mean there are not any). SO the brake power line (blue) entering the trailer is just tied to one of the wires from the break away switch and then to the brakes themselves. The other wire of the break away goes to the trailer battery positive. Here is the way mine is wired: From Tow Vehicle +12 volts-\--(40A Auto Reset breaker)----to battery \--(Brake away switch)---\ Brake (Blue)-------------------------\---To brakes With the tow vehicle disconnected and switch activated there is still a 40 amp breaker between the battery and the brakes. I can see removing that connector on the trailer would be a lot of work. You would then have to mount a junction box and tie together the wires to the new trailer plug. A 10 gauge wire is adequate for running your refrigerator. I did that for several years. (can't anymore as the present one doesn't have the 12 volt option because it is too big for 12 volt operation - I have to run on propane when on the road). Your refrigerator draws about 10 amperes. And the ground wire is just as important. Don't expect to do much battery charging when pulling. Do your charging with a battery charger. Is this your cable? http://www.rvpartsandsupplies.com/Shopping/asp/catalog.asp?id=0309.1203 >Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was correct >that the brake controller box you have mounted on the trailer is some >sort of electrical device. I never saw one but I have not seen a >trailer with hydraulic brakes for 30 or 40 years (doesn't mean there are >not any). There's tons of trailers out there with hydraulic surge breaks. Go take a look a some of the two and three axle boat trailers and a lot of trailers that rental places use for bobcats and small trac-hoes that they rent. SignatureFrank Tabor >> Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was correct >> that the brake controller box you have mounted on the trailer is some [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > trailers that rental places use for bobcats and small trac-hoes that > they rent. Yeah, but I meant RV trailers, especially Starcraft. It appears that what I said was right. His trailer came with electric and that box must be an inertia type device. I have never seen such a device but it could work. >>> Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was correct >>> that the brake controller box you have mounted on the trailer is some [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >be an inertia type device. I have never seen such a device but it could >work. I've never seen one either. That's why I thought about the surge brakes. Personally, I think the surge brakes would work better than the pendulum, I think he has an 8 pin plug because of those. What he should really do is remove that pendulum box if he has installed a separate brake controller on the tow vehicle. Then rewire that 8 pin to a 7 pin and figure out what the extra wire is for. I'll bet it's tied to the 12vdc hot wire to provide power to the brake controller on the tongue. If he hooks up to his new controller, I think he's going to let the smoke out of either his brandy new brake controller or the one on the tongue. Get my drift? Now he has two brake controllers and that won't work. SignatureFrank Tabor >>>> Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was correct >>>> that the brake controller box you have mounted on the trailer is some [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > is remove that pendulum box if he has installed a separate brake > controller on the tow vehicle. I think that was his original question. He was asking how to do it & how the wires run. Not certain but what I think is that the brake wire comes out of that trailer mounted box. Not certain that is a inertia control but what he says seems to agree with that idea. I have never seen an electric (inertial) trailer mounted device but it would be pretty neat for a trailer that might be pulled by various vehicles. Rental trailer comes to mind. If you look at his photo of the 8 pin socket on the trailer you will see that at least one pin has been removed. no extras to be concerned about. So my guess is that the brake pin on the trailer side is open. Then rewire that 8 pin to a 7 pin and > figure out what the extra wire is for. I'll bet it's tied to the 12vdc > hot wire to provide power to the brake controller on the tongue. If he > hooks up to his new controller, I think he's going to let the smoke out > of either his brandy new brake controller or the one on the tongue. Get > my drift? Now he has two brake controllers and that won't work. No smoke as he said in the first post that he had tried it out and all the lights etc worked. Now he is trying to get the trailer brakes hooked to the pin on the 7 pin connector. Appears he has everything under control except how to get the brake power line (blue) connected to the brakes and to hookup the break away switch. If that trailer mounted device is what I am thinking there should maybe also a wire from the brake lights into it. That would provide an activation signal similar to the one dash mounted units receive from the brake lamp switch. Did a bit of searching and see that Carlisle makes such a unit for small trailers. They also make them for big truck trailers. https://www.goboatingamerica.com/products/DM_article.asp?id=2825 Shucks!! I was just thinking if such a device didn't exist in the RV market it might be something to make and market:-). >https://www.goboatingamerica.com/products/DM_article.asp?id=2825 > >Shucks!! I was just thinking if such a device didn't exist in the RV >market it might be something to make and market:-). Oh, well, there goes another "get-rich-quick scheme"! SignatureFrank Tabor Hi guys, and again, thank you very much for hanging with me here. Rich, I need to say that you're on track with what I'm talking about, and you've already been a big help with giving me ideas. Yes, I'm trying to figure out the best way to either a) replace the proprietary pigtail with a new one if available, or b) retrofit a newer style round 7-way trailer end socket (less preferable option). That link to that cable actually just may be it, wow! I may ping them to get a bit better picture of it. If I can keep the same stuff, it would be best. The connector on the trailer is so pretty and nicely integrated, it'd be a shame to abandon it, not to mention a bigger PITA. The brake controller box that's mounted to the trailer frame, it's definitely electrical. Today was the first time I've looked at it since I've actually known what I'm looking at, and it turns out to be an old Tekonsha. Here's a picture: http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/old_box.jpg Now, I haven't yet messed around with the wiring on the trailer side just yet, but you can see there's a mess of wires, most spliced, that are heading into that box. Like I said, I haven't messed with all that yet, but I will probably next weekend. Be prepared for more questions! :-) You can also see the "Gain Control" (the words printed on the bottom of the unit) knob on the bottom of the box. I also took a closer look at the breakaway switch (which was installed by the service shop last summer, so it's new). It has two (black) wires coming off it, just like you said, Rich. That ASCII wiring diagram you put together looks like what I need and I'll probably go with that. Now to talk a bit about that 8-pin plug, two of those pins on the plug itself (the pigtail part, not on the trailer), aren't even connected to anything; there are not metal conductors inside of them. You can squeeze the rubber and push it in, unlike the holes that have metal conductors. Weird. I think I have enough info now to start poking around the wiring on the trailer. Tomorrow I'll call that place that may have that connector (thanks again for the pointer!) and see if it's the right one, and if so, I'll get it. We've got reservations at a state campground on the west shore of Lake Tahoe, Sugar Pine Point, at the end of August. That means pulling this rig over a Sierra Nevada pass. That's my deadline to get this stuff working! Thanks again, everyone, I really appreciate it. -Rob San Jose, CA >>>>> Since you have a brake away switch, I will my assumption was >>>>> correct that the brake controller box you have mounted on the [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > Shucks!! I was just thinking if such a device didn't exist in the RV > market it might be something to make and market:-). > Hi guys, and again, thank you very much for hanging with me here. > [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > -Rob > San Jose, CA Just a quick comment on the two missing pins. Not surprised as the standard 7 pin usually only uses 6. Unless the trailer had back up lights there is no use for 7. From what I can see there are four wires going into that brake control box (Red, Black. White and Blue). My guess would be Red would be connected to 12 volts, Black to ground, Blue to the brakes. Or maybe the black is not a ground. The chassis could be that. I think the unit would need both the left turn lamp and right turn lamp wires. If there is 12 volts on both of them it tells the unit that the brakes have been applied. So maybe the Black and white wires provide that. Or maybe there are even more wires. That would "activate" the brake control when the brakes are pressed. And of course the gain control is to adjust how much current the brakes would receive. Hopefully to get it so they would do all the braking for the trailer. Here is a diagram for the switch. If you can I would recommend a 40 amp auto reset circuit breaker in the power line to the switch. And if wired like my other diagram it also protects the line back to the tow vehicle. http://www.tekonsha.com/instructions/BreakwySwtch%20PDF%20RevG.pdf Here is a manual that includes a diagram for the carlisle unit. http://www.carlislebrake.com/ElectraStar_SM.pdf With that one it almost looks like the running lights have to be on to make it work. It is nice to have good brakes when going over those mountain passes. I pull Berthoud or Eisenhower tunnel in Colorado (both about 10,300 ft) a couple times a month during the summer. Also the manual lever can be very useful if on a downhill slope the trailer begins to sway (and wants to pass). Hit the lever and the trailer pulls right back into position. Note: Tekonsha says that activation of the break away switch while connected to the tow vehicle could destroy the Prodigy controller. I accidentally did it with my 5th wheel. Didn't harm it. I threw something into the bed of the truck without looking. It landed on top of the switch lanyard. A few minutes later I was backing into a parking place and the trailer brakes froze tight. They were on for a few minutes before I realized what had happened. > Here is a diagram for the switch. If you can I would recommend a 40 amp > auto reset circuit breaker in the power line to the switch. And if > wired like my other diagram it also protects the line back to the tow > vehicle. > > http://www.tekonsha.com/instructions/BreakwySwtch%20PDF%20RevG.pdf Hey, that diagram is just the thing! Thank you! Well, as you can guess, this is my project for this coming weekend. -Rob > The reason I'm considering abandoning this connector I traded-in my 13-year old '87 Galaxy BEFORE that built-in receptacle "died" but was prepared to abandon it when the time came. Go ahead and just hard-wire a Bargman 8-pin to the trailer like just about every other towable out there. In that case, it STAYS with the trailer and is not susceptible to being lost. Good luck! Signature:) JR > Thanks for the responses, everyone. > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > underneath): > http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/trailer_connector.jpg The 8-pin connector that you show in your picture should be available from any Starcraft dealer. I bought one a few years ago from a dealer (Campers Inn, Raynham, MA) for a used '95 Starcraft. They did not have it in stock, but ordered several from the factory and sold me one for some reasonable price like $30 (I can't remember exactly). The 8-pin comes with pigtail of appropriately sized wires, about 5 feet in length, which you then cut to any desired length and attach to the connector of your choice (presumably the std 7-pin Bargman connector). If you want to abandon the 8-pin connector on the trailer and wire directly, as others have suggested, that is certainly a reasonable alternative. SignatureNOTE: to reply, remove all punctuation from email name field Ned Forrester n_f_orrester@whoi.edu 508-289-2226 Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering Dept. Oceanographic Systems Lab http://adcp.whoi.edu/ Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA > The 8-pin connector that you show in your picture should be available > from any Starcraft dealer. I bought one a few years ago from a dealer [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > length, which you then cut to any desired length and attach to the > connector of your choice (presumably the std 7-pin Bargman connector). Hi Ned, thanks for the advice. I'll give the Starcraft dealer route a try. I tried calling my local dealer today, but it seems they're closed on Mondays. Also, Rich, I tried looking into that other link you posted, and it seems that outfit's website is closed for remodeling. -Rob > The 8-pin connector that you show in your picture should be available > from any Starcraft dealer. I bought one a few years ago from a dealer [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > length, which you then cut to any desired length and attach to the > connector of your choice (presumably the std 7-pin Bargman connector). OK, I took your advice and called the local Starcraft dealer. I gave them the description of what I need and they say what they have in stock is probably what I need. Nice! I'll be heading over there before work tomorrow, old connector in hand, to see if it's it. Said it's about $23 and change. Thanks again for the tip, Ned. Not sure why I forget about checking the obvious! -Rob > The 8-pin connector that you show in your picture should be available > from any Starcraft dealer. Just an update. I took Ned's advice, found me a local Starcraft dealer, and viola! I now have a new connector, on one end with the 8-pin proprietary connector that plugs into the trailer frame, and on the other end, a standard 7-pin trailer end that plugs into the tow vehicle!. It was about $25 including tax. I connected it last night just to see if the trailer lights would come on, and for sure, they did. Nice! Anyway, looking forward to start deciphering the wiring on the trailer tomorrow. Wish me luck. And again, thanks to everyone's constructive comments and suggestions. Really appreciate it! -Rob >> The 8-pin connector that you show in your picture should be available >> from any Starcraft dealer. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >-Rob Wishing you luck. :D :D |
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