 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2006Noise from the Electric Brake
Hi, As I mentioned in another thread (a long thread, btw, longest in some time in this group!), last summer I was out for the very first time in my 87 Starcraft pop-up trailer. It has electric brakes and a trailer mounted brake controller (see the other thread from this past weekend for all the gory details). After reaching our destination and parking, I heard a humming/buzzing coming from the right-side wheel. It wasn't loud at all, but noticeable. I disconnected a red wire from the splice near the controller and the noise stopped. When I got home a couple days later, I reconnected that wire and the noise, of course, started again. After I get the wiring on the trailer all straightened out to work with my new Prodigy controller (again, see the other thread for details), I plan on going into that wheel to see what's going on. I imagine the noise will return once things are hooked up again, so I'm expecting I'll have to figure it out soon. Before I go there, any idea on what that noise might be? My inexperienced speculation is that the magnet is giving out and needs replacement. It's only on the one side, so I doubt it's the old controller. Take a look at this unit...! http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/old_box.jpg Feel free to speculate with me. I'll post more about once I get to dive into it. Thanks, -Rob San Jose, CA >Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > >San Jose, CA Did you have the Prodigy connected at the same time? did you try unplugging the tow vehicle top see if the buzzing stopped? If so then the two brake controllers are interacting.  SignatureFrank Tabor > Did you have the Prodigy connected at the same time? did you try > unplugging the tow vehicle top see if the buzzing stopped? If so then > the two brake controllers are interacting. Hi Frank, No, both controllers were not hooked up at the same time, nor will they ever be. I've had the new Prodigy installed now for 2 weeks. The last time the old one saw (or will ever see) electricity was last summer. When I get to messing with the wiring on the trailer this weekend, first thing I'll do is make a note of the wiring coming from the old box. Second thing is to disconnect the old box and toss it. But like I mentioned earlier, my bet is that once I get things connected up again, the buzzing will return. -Rob > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > San Jose, CA Yeah, note where the wires come from. The red is obviously the power. It does sound like the brakes were trying to activate. You need should pack the wheel bearings anyway and then you can get a look at the brake linings. To check the brakes to see if they work you can jack up each wheel, pull the break away switch and check if the wheel locks up. You need a charged battery in the trailer for that. <snip> > After reaching our destination and parking, I heard a humming/buzzing > coming from the right-side wheel. It wasn't loud at all, but [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > controller. Take a look at this unit...! > http://www.jaworskihouse.com/image_files/trailer_wiring/old_box.jpg I'm not clear on one thing...were you getting the noise while the trailer was disconnected from the tow vehicle? If yes, then I'd bet my bottom dollar it won't happen with the Prodigy (unless you or the previous owner wired something wrong). The brakes should receive no power from anywhere without a controller connected (and with the trailer not plugged in, the Prodigy isn't connected). I doubt it will happen with the Prodigy while the trailer is hooked up either - unless someone is stepping on the brake. Checking the magnets is not a difficult or time consuming task, but does require removal of the wheel & brake drum. Always replace them in pairs. Austin > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Austin But what he is saying is that with that trailer mounted controller connected he was getting something. Does that mean the brakes were on? Are the brake shoes gone or need adjusting? For what he was getting it doesn't make any difference whether the tow vehicle was connected or not. That trailer mounted controller gets it's power from the trailer battery. However, I am quite certain that if operating properly it should not put out voltage to the brakes unless it sees voltage for both turn signal/brake lamp power (brake lights). And the clue that the controller was doing it is that when he removed power to it the noise quit.' Well, as I said with a trailer that old he should be pulling the wheels and checking the bearings anyway. Most all trailers recommend that be done every year, unless you have something like the Spindle Lube axles. http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.html#spindlub Hi all, To answer some of the questions, the noise would happen if the trailer was connected to the tow vehicle or not. But of course, the battery in the trailer, which would be powering the brakes, had to be connected. Rich, that's an interesting idea you've been mentioning, those trailer-mounted self-contained units that run entire off the trailer, activating via both the brake lights. I don't know if that's what this is or not, but maybe it is, since there are more than just two wires coming from out of the box. But, I have a feeling we'll never know. :-) Last summer, when I had the rig in the shop for a PDI lookover, they also packed the wheel bearings. I just checked again tonight and the hubs under the dust cover are still pretty greasy fresh with that reddish grease, so I'm thinking they're still OK. But depending on how far I get into it, I may repack them again by hand. Messy hand. The folks that did the inspection, bearing packing, etc, last year said the bearings and brakes all looked good, they're adjusted, etc, so that's good to hear. I'm thinking I want a looksee for myself anyway, so I'll pick up a socket big enough (1 15/32"?) to fit that hub castle nut and pull the wheel/drum off. They charged $150 to pack the bearings...! That's something I can do myself from now on; all I need is that socket. Sheesh. Anyway, I'm kinda itchin to play around with it come Saturday morning. But now I'm getting pulled into a bunch of 2 and 3 year old's birthday parties. I'll do what I can. BTW, regarding that breakaway switch... sounds like that's something I can pull (engage) and then reset by popping it back in. Is that right? I thought it was a one-shot thing, sort of like a non-refillable fire extinguisher. Once you break the seal, it must have been an emergency, so it doesn't matter if it's disposable. Thanks, -Rob San Jose, CA > For what he was getting it doesn't make any difference whether the tow > vehicle was connected or not. That trailer mounted controller gets it's [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.html#spindlub > Hi all, > > To answer some of the questions, the noise would happen if the trailer > was connected to the tow vehicle or not. But of course, the battery in > the trailer, which would be powering the brakes, had to be connected. Then either something is miswired or the old controller is bad. My bet is it's the old controller. > The folks that did the inspection, bearing packing, etc, last year said > the bearings and brakes all looked good, they're adjusted, etc, so [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > They charged $150 to pack the bearings...! That's something I can do > myself from now on; all I need is that socket. Sheesh. First, if you need a socket for the castle nut, something is wrong. It should be held on with a cotter pin and barely hand tight. Second, you should adjust the brakes at least once a year. Third, bearings on trailers need to be serviced a lot more often than other vehicles because trailers sit for long periods of time. Every year might be overkill, but that is what most manufacturers reccomend. > BTW, regarding that breakaway switch... sounds like that's something I > can pull (engage) and then reset by popping it back in. Is that right? > I thought it was a one-shot thing, sort of like a non-refillable fire > extinguisher. Once you break the seal, it must have been an emergency, > so it doesn't matter if it's disposable. Some states require it be tested as part of the inspection, so if it's single-use, it can't be inspected. No, you can pull it any time, and should from time to time. I pulled mine this year when adjusting the brakes, and nothing happened. Bad news in an emergency. Austin >First, if you need a socket for the castle nut, something is wrong. It >should be held on with a cotter pin and barely hand tight. How do you intend to torque it back to preload the bearings? Most of them call for 30-40 ft/lbs torque, then back off 1/4 turn. Can't do that with a pair of pliers. SignatureFrank Tabor >>First, if you need a socket for the castle nut, something is wrong. It >>should be held on with a cotter pin and barely hand tight. > > How do you intend to torque it back to preload the bearings? Most of > them call for 30-40 ft/lbs torque, then back off 1/4 turn. Can't do > that with a pair of pliers. Big cresent wrench or a pair of channel locks. 40# torque is probably too much. You do not want to flat spot a bearing. Just tighten the nut, while spinning the wheel. When you get a little drag, loosen it up until you can get the cotter pin in. > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > is or not, but maybe it is, since there are more than just two wires > coming from out of the box. But, I have a feeling we'll never know. :-) Most if not all dash mounted electric controllers use the brake lamp to activate the controller. To do that on the trailer you have to use both turn signal wires. If there is 12 volts to both the brakes have been applied. The reason for using the brake lamps to activate is that the inertia sensor might get a false reading when you don't want brakes. When it sees the brake then the inertia sensor controls how much voltage goes tot the brakes. > Last summer, when I had the rig in the shop for a PDI lookover, they > also packed the wheel bearings. I just checked again tonight and the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > so I'll pick up a socket big enough (1 15/32"?) to fit that hub castle > nut and pull the wheel/drum off. As Austin said you don't need a socket. Just an adjustable wrench that opens to that size. If you haven't packed bearings there are several sites with instructions. Basically snug the nut up seating the bearings, back off and then tighten finger tight. > They charged $150 to pack the bearings...! That's something I can do > myself from now on; all I need is that socket. Sheesh. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > extinguisher. Once you break the seal, it must have been an emergency, > so it doesn't matter if it's disposable. Yeah, just pull it and you hook the battery directly to the brakes. Just don't do it while plugged into the tow vehicle (when you get the brake wires connected). It is just a spring loaded switch that takes just a little pressure to remove and replace. Really puzzled me when the brakes on my 5th wheel suddenly locked. Then noticed the cable laying there. I had thrown something on it just a few minutes before and when I made a sharp turn backing up the switch plug came out. >> Hi all, >> [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] > had thrown something on it just a few minutes before and when I made a > sharp turn backing up the switch plug came out. Go to here http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#articleindex for the directions for trailer wheel bearings. >> Yeah, just pull it and you hook the battery directly to the brakes. Just >> don't do it while plugged into the tow vehicle (when you get the brake [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Go to here http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#articleindex > for the directions for trailer wheel bearings. Thanks, everyone... all very helpful. I was going to pick up that socket on the way home from work today, but read your postings from work and thought, that's just like the front end of my 69 VW Bug. Just tighten the nut snug and cinch it down with the lock bolt. And, I'll give that breakaway switch a tug when I get a minute and see how that goes. Very cool. >>> Yeah, just pull it and you hook the battery directly to the brakes. >>> Just don't do it while plugged into the tow vehicle (when you get the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > and thought, that's just like the front end of my 69 VW Bug. Just > tighten the nut snug and cinch it down with the lock bolt. Ah, Don't leave it snug. Snug it down like Calif Bill says until you feel some drag. Not too tight. Back it off and then turn back on finger tight and use the nearest key hole. > And, I'll give that breakaway switch a tug when I get a minute and see > how that goes. Very cool. > Ah, Don't leave it snug. Snug it down like Calif Bill says until you > feel some drag. Not too tight. Back it off and then turn back on > finger tight and use the nearest key hole. Right, that's what I meant. :-) |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.