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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2006Propane Pressure
Greetings, So my Rockwood has an IN/OUT stove. There is a line with a valve located at the back end of the trailer with a valve. There is then a flexible line that runs up through the body with a quick release coupler where I can have the line running inside or outside that hooks up to the stove. We recently bought a little propane BBQ that runs off of those teeny, but expensive cylinders used for lanterns etc. I was getting tired of buying the cylinders, so I bought some fittings (tee and valve as well as some other little fittings I needed) so that I could tap into the line and have propane from the trailer that will supply the BBQ. I bought a 10 ft extension hose so that I could safely have the BBQ away from the trailer. Anyway, we went camping on the weekend and when I hooked up the BBQ, I couldn't get it lit - there was no LP coming through the line. The in/out stove ran fine, but I couldn't get the BBQ to work. When we got home, I took a look at things. The 10ft hose is not plugged (I hooked up a little propane cylinder and depressed the pin at the other end and LP came out.) I also removed the little valve (much like the ones used on the Coleman cylinders) and turned the gas on. I noticed that gas was coming through the line and out through to the valve, but there wasn't a hole heck of a lot of pressure. So I put the valve back on, hooked up the hose and turned the gas on again. I then pressed the needle at the other end of the 10ft hose and there was absolutely no pressure and no gas coming through. So which made me to think that there was obviously not enough pressure to get through the system. My question is: What kind of pressure is in the system after the LP is passed from the tank through the regulator? Could the regulator be bad on the T/T or can the pressure be adjusted on the regulator. By the way, the tank is full and as I mentioned before, the stove works fine, the furnace works great and as far as I know the fridge works as well. Any ideas? I am guessing here, but I'll bet that your BBQ is designed to hook up directly to a cylinder that is a higher pressure system. One can buy adapter hoses for some of those BBQ's, and the hose hooks up *directly* to the large (20 lb) tanks. On RV's, there is a pressure reducer hooked up to the tank(s), and the output pressure to the in/out stove is much lower. IF all of this is true, you are trying to run a high pressure BBQ on a low pressure gas supply. I'll bet that the BBQ actually also has a built-in pressure reducer, so you are running low pressure gas into a pressure reducer! Your only solution would be to run the BBQ off of a separate propane tank. HTH > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Any ideas? The trailer pressure regulator drops the pressure to no more than 11 column inches of water which is a very low pressure. Your BBQ also has a regulator built into the temperature control assembly but it is expecting a very high pressure at its input and it is only getting a very low pressure and just can't work. Marshall and others make an adapter that you attach to your trailer's tank and then attach the trailer's regulator to the adapter thus giving you both high and low pressure from one tank. Be ready for sticker shock!!!  Signature[Dale] & Betty '02 Coleman/Fleetwood 25SL Caravan '01 GMC Sierra > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Any ideas? Yeh, thanks all, that is pretty much what I figured after I came home and looked at it. So I wonder if I just "tap" into the line before the regulator and pressure reducer with my tee then I would be supplying the higher pressure to the BBQ whilst supplying the lower "regulated" pressure to the stove, furnace and fridge - this should likely work ok - do you think - and it likely would be safe so long as no leaks were present? > "tap" into the line before the > regulator and pressure reducer with my tee then I would be supplying > the higher pressure to the BBQ whilst supplying the lower "regulated" > pressure to the stove, furnace and fridge - this should likely work ok > - do you think - and it likely would be safe so long as no leaks were > present? That sounds OK to me. Depending on the CO$T, you may be reinventing the wheel as there are a few products "out there" that are specifically designed to do what you need. <http://www.marshallbrass.com/rv.htm> Signature:) JR I purchased a valve from cabelas that allows me to refill the small bottles from my 20lb tank. follow directions and it works great. Gives you that drive around and picnic portability. john E-Z Propane Filler Item:IG-512325 > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Any ideas? Just don't transport the refilled bottles. From what I gather, that's the only thing the law says you can't do... Although how anyone is supposed to know you've refilled one is beyond me... :-) Wesley > I purchased a valve from cabelas that allows me to refill the small bottles > from my 20lb tank. follow directions and it works great. Gives you that [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > > > Any ideas? Boy, they sure don't provide much info on that device on the Cabela website. Does it work well? How long does it take to fill the little bottle? Do you just let it go til the pressure on both bottles are equal? Does it compromise the integrity of the little bottle at all by doing this? And other than CYA, why wouldn't the law allow transporting refilled bottles? Just curious. -Rob > Just don't transport the refilled bottles. From what I gather, that's the > only thing the law says you can't do... Although how anyone is supposed to [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] >>> >>> Any ideas? freeze small bottle...attach valve. invert big tank. fill small bottle.... it comes with instructions, The part to remember is to freeze your old bottles and turn your big tank upside down. I generally let them set outside prior to transport because you can over fill those little rascals and sometimes they blow off a little. john > Boy, they sure don't provide much info on that device on the Cabela > website. [quoted text clipped - 66 lines] >>>> >>>> Any ideas? > freeze small bottle...attach valve. invert big tank. fill small bottle.... I have never done this, but know a neighbor several houses down did a few years ago. Having to freeze the bottle explains why they did it in their kitchen. > it comes with instructions, The part to remember is to freeze your old > bottles and turn your big tank upside down. > > I generally let them set outside prior to transport because you can over > fill those little rascals and sometimes they blow off a little. Them "blowing off a little" also explains why their house was completely gutted by fire. Him doing it while she was cooking probably did not help. Be careful out there! (Why do they call it common sense when it seems to be anything but?) SignatureKarl & Angela `02 Durango `05 Fleetwood Allegiance I bought one of the "refill adapters" and about 1/2 the little bottles leaked after being re-filled. It was just a slow leak, but I had envisioned re-filling all the bottles, and having them ready for the next trip. With about 1/2 of them leaking, I thought there was too much of a fire danger, so I quit using the device. Maybe, if I was to fill a bottle and use it right away, it might be OK. But to answer the questions, yes you basically hook them together, turn them upside down and let them equalize pressure. > Boy, they sure don't provide much info on that device on the Cabela > website. [quoted text clipped - 66 lines] >>>> >>>> Any ideas? What for dirt or contaminating particles. It is easy to blow particulate matter back down 'into' the bottle. Try a drop or squirt of penetrating oil on the needle valve too. Now, none leak until the are relatively old. john >I bought one of the "refill adapters" and about 1/2 the little bottles >leaked after being re-filled. It was just a slow leak, but I had [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] >>>>> >>>>> Any ideas? WATCH > What for dirt or contaminating particles. It is easy to blow particulate > matter back down 'into' the bottle. Try a drop or squirt of penetrating [quoted text clipped - 96 lines] >>>>>> >>>>>> Any ideas? > Just don't transport the refilled bottles. That means you must use them RIGHT THERE at the bench you used to refill them. Duh! You transport them to get them to the campsite. Do they, or do they NOT, leak after refilling? Is it a sub-division of The Mattress Tag Police that will get you if you refill the little bottles? I don't know. But, more importantly, I don't care - at least not enough to shell-out even the paltry sum asked for the <ahem> adapter. Disposable propane bottles, for me, are right "up there" with disposable dinner plates, knives, spoons and forks. The disposability and, therefore, CONVENIENCE outweigh the actual CO$T. Mix my own toilet chemical? Heck, no. After I used the gallon jug of Aqua Kem, carefully refilling a set of six, 8-oz bottles I had acquired, I am simply now buying the 8-ounce bottles and being done with it. No refilling, measuring or mixing. I'm sure my practices may take some serious reconsideration after I go more often but, until then, I vote for the easy route every time. Call me lazy when I camp. It's really NOT true, as I "putter" alot the whole time, but I don't break a sweat - and that part is CHEAP! Signature:) JR Well, okay. Just make sure you put it all in the recycle bin.... john >> Just don't transport the refilled bottles. > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > I > don't break a sweat - and that part is CHEAP! > Well, okay. My little diatribe probably made me seem more wasteful and, worse, careless, than I really am. After I pull out of a camp site, I stop, get out of the tow vehicle, and WALK back through the site I had just occupied. I pick up whatever scrap of something I might find (rare) and am content that I left the site in at least AS GOOD, if not better (usual), shape than I found it. This is how we raised our three daughters. They are now teaching their husbands and offspring how it's done. After >33-years with the phone company with no retirement in sight, I am a little better "fixed" to enjoy some of the "little" things in life, not the least of which is deciding to go BACK to those little, 16-ounce, disposable cylinders. By "go back" I mean that I hereby announce my plan to DE-modify my "new" Thermos Grill-to-Go. Once done, I will no longer lug-around the 20-lb ("patio" size) cylinder of fuel. I foolishly thought that it would be a good idea for the big, separate supply, so I installed the (easy) mods to hook it quickly to a big tank the first time I used it. I don't believe I have ever fired it with a disposable bottle. Not having to lug around that big tank for the price of a couple or three (no more) of the little guys/season is a reasonable expense. > Just make sure you put it all in the recycle bin.... Ahhhh! But what if there ISN'T one marked "empty disposable propane cylinders"? Seriously, in The Great American Desert, (lots of land fill space "nearby") the most on-site sorting of recyclables I ever see is for aluminum cans. Even then, such accommodation is rare. This, of course, results in the requisite man in the old, beat-up pickup, coming to the campground and "dumpster diving" all the dumpsters for the aluminum on Sunday evening. This, of course, is very silly. The State [Darth Vader sound/music] could <ahem> "look the other way" and let this fellow install, operate, collect and otherwise maintain, an aluminum can receptacle. He would no longer have to dive into dumpsters and I wouldn't be surprised that camper participation would surpass what he was able to recover by dumpster diving. But that's for aluminum cans, not HOPEFULLY empty steel (aluminum?) cylinders that formerly held propane. (Flammable gas = horrors!) (I think they're steel, aren't they?) Those that I might contribute go into the county landfill that serves my campout. Sorry. Signature:) JR
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