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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / October 2006Mounting stabilzer jack
I finally got around to ordering a pair of stabilizer jacks for the front of my 10' Jayco. I don't weld, so I was planning to bolt them on. Stupid question... do I need a special drill bit to start the mounting holes in the popups frame? The screws that came with the stabilizers appear to be self tapping, but they are also something like 3/8" I don't think I can put enough force to initiate the holes; so I should pre-tap the holes with a smaller diameter drill bit yes? > I finally got around to ordering a pair of stabilizer jacks for the front > of my 10' Jayco. I don't weld, so I was planning to bolt them on. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > think I can put enough force to initiate the holes; so I should pre-tap > the holes with a smaller diameter drill bit yes? Yep, predrill. Better yet, drill the holes full size and use bolts and lockwashers. > Steph wrote: >> I finally got around to ordering a pair of stabilizer jacks for the front [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> think I can put enough force to initiate the holes; so I should pre-tap >> the holes with a smaller diameter drill bit yes? > Yep, predrill. Better yet, drill the holes full size and use bolts and > lockwashers. I agree - and get stainless steel bolts, lockwashers, and nuts. > > Steph wrote: > >> I finally got around to ordering a pair of stabilizer jacks for the front [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > I agree - and get stainless steel bolts, lockwashers, and nuts. Personally, I'd forget the lockwashers and use locknuts. If using lockwashers, and they loosen a little (it does happen), they're gone. If a locknut loosens, it won't loosen much, and will *always* remain attached. IMNSHO, for something that gets bounced down the road like a pop-up, the self-tapping screw is better than bolts with lock washers. OTOH, after it's been taken out and put back in a few times, the self-tapping screw is useless... Austin > do I need a special drill bit to start the mounting > holes in the popups frame? No. A high-quality, high speed twist drill should work if you select the correct size and operate the drill with skill. > I should pre-tap the holes with a smaller diameter drill bit yes? Yes. I suggest no smaller than 1/8-inch and a NEW bit ahead of a HEFTY drill, even for the pilot hole. Good luck. Be safe. You'll enjoy four-corner stabilization, for sure.  Signature:) JR Not sure where you headed.....but I have had good results drilling a small "pilot" hole and then drilling out to the larger size... john >> do I need a special drill bit to start the mounting >> holes in the popups frame? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > even for the pilot hole. Good luck. Be safe. You'll enjoy four-corner > stabilization, for sure. > Not sure where you headed.....but I have had good results drilling a > small "pilot" hole and then drilling out to the larger size... [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> even for the pilot hole. Good luck. Be safe. You'll enjoy >> four-corner stabilization, for sure. Thanks for all the feedback, I have not looked closely at the enclosed hardware, but I believe it has the self-tapping screws and lock bolts. I would back up whatever. My real question was related to pre-drilling the steel frame. I don't want to destroy my bits and the only metal I really have drilled was sheet and I used a press. My bits are in great shape and do fine for wood -- but I never did steel. Maybe this weekend I will mark all 6 holes and pre-drill one or two. ...and yeah the trailer was supposed to have all 4 stabilzers at delivery time but the dealer sort of flaked out. Whole other story, some of which can be found by searching this groups archives :) <snip> > My real question was related to pre-drilling the steel frame. I don't > want to destroy my bits and the only metal I really have drilled was > sheet and I used a press. My bits are in great shape and do fine for > wood -- but I never did steel. Maybe this weekend I will mark all 6 > holes and pre-drill one or two. Here is what I normally do when drilling steel: I place a large washer around the point where I want the hole. I then fill the washer with cutting oil. For self tapping screws, I use the drill bit that is closest in size to the inside of the threads (i.e. the entire thread is larger than the bit). If the size I want is halfway between, I usually go out and buy the correct (cheap) bit. If the bit is larger than 3/16", I drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit first. Drill at a low speed, with only moderate force. If it looks like the oil is running low (the filings/shavings will carry it off), I will stop and add a few drops more. Don't be in a hurry. Too much speed or force will overheat the bit, softening and dulling it. The problem with this is I assume the surface you want to drill isn't horizontal (or is on the underside of the frame). I'm not sure how to keep the oil on it (except to stop every 15 seconds and add more oil). I'd end up with myself and my drill covered with cutting oil and steel filings. Yuck. One option would be to buy one cheap bit and plan on throwing it away after this project. I would still try to use some oil to get the bit to last at least until you are done. Can you flip the pop-up over and...uh, maybe not ;) Austin |
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