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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / January 2007

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Doing the Happy Dance!!!!!!

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hunyface@aol.com - 23 Dec 2006 00:08 GMT
HI all,

After spending 2 months looking for a pop up I found one!!!!its a Jayco
1990 12 foot box and about 21 foot open but it is very nice...
 Howeever it has only an ICE BOX!!!!!!does anyone know if a small rv
fridge can be installed in the spot where the stupid ice box is....
  Also it seems to tow ok on the hwy but makes a squeeking noise
Could I need to oil the ball on my hitch?  It seemed to tug a bit here
and there on surface streets.  it wieghts 2400 and hs a toungue wieght
of 175 lbs.
 I looked at my temp and it never went above the 1/4 mark.  I had a
transmission cooler installed before towing.  
    Cindy
Tomes - 23 Dec 2006 01:19 GMT
> HI all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> transmission cooler installed before towing.
>     Cindy

Hooray Cindy!
I am glad that you found one that you liked enough to come home with.  You
might wish to try camping with only the ice box for a bit to see how that
works out.  On our former popup, it did not have a fridge, and we did just
fine with our coolers and your box is just a glorified cooler.

On the squeak, it will behoove you to see if you can isolate the sound
instead of just trying to grease up stuff.  I went through the greasing of
the ball phase and I am glad now that I never do that anymore.  I always
ended up with grease on my pants or leg somehow from that dang ball.  It
might be coming from the wheel bearings or from the springs.  Maybe have
someone run along side of it when you pull over bumps and find out where it
comes from (or, more dangerously, ride on it).  When we bought each of our
popups, the first thing I did was repack the bearings with grease - it will
likely cost you about $40 or so to have someone do it for you (at least I
think so, but it is not a lot).

One other thing that can be adjusted is how tightly the latch holds onto the
ball of the hitch.  You want it to be as tight as feasible and still be able
to get the trailer on and off easily enough.  Yours might be too loose and
allow the ball to knock around inside the tongue part.  I have adjusted mine
on both trailers.  There is a nut in there if you look underneath; use a
handy socket wrench.

It seems that it might be a little bit back-loaded, with only 7.3% of the
weight on the tongue.  You want 10-15% for better performance on the road
(less wandering).  If you load the heavy stuff up front it will help this.

Good luck with this and tell us how it all works out.
Tomes
Dave Priven - 23 Dec 2006 04:18 GMT
> > HI all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> works out.  On our former popup, it did not have a fridge, and we did just
> fine with our coolers and your box is just a glorified cooler.

Part of message snipped

I agree about the cooler, try it the way it is for a few trips.
Refrigerators are ok, but they are not great
If you are not level, they don't work worth a lick.  They are expensive and
are often slow to cool.
Try freezing one or two plastic bottles from milk or soda full of water in
your home freezer if you have room in it.
Allow room for water to expand while it freezes.  When bottles are frozen
hard put the lids on them.
They will not leak water over your food in the cooler and will keep stuff
cold a long time. If you are on a weekend trip refreeze the
bottles when you get home.  If on a long trip recycle the bottles when they
melt and replace with block ice.

If you decide to get a referigerator anyway; most rv manufacturers design
their units so the ice box can be upgraded
to a refer. by the local dealer; a unit that will just drop in with no major
modifications other than wiring and/or gas line and
the addition of a vent is most of what is needed.

Enjoy your new toy

DAP
hunyface@aol.com - 23 Dec 2006 23:05 GMT
> > HI all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> likely cost you about $40 or so to have someone do it for you (at least I
> think so, but it is not a lot).
 I have the old bearings.  The people I bought it frorm said they had
it serviced this year.
     We also have a hard time getting the door up.  The folk I bought
it from showed me how to mount and dismount the door and they had no
problem  When I tried to do it the door acted like the roof was not all
the way up but the tension cable was all the way up.  The walls form a
seal on the door frame so it needs to installed right.  I may have  to
find a dealer for serviceing and ask them to show us the door trick
because there has to be one...the rest goes up great and coming down is
not bad.  I wonder if the cables need to be graphite oiled however.

> One other thing that can be adjusted is how tightly the latch holds onto the
> ball of the hitch.  You want it to be as tight as feasible and still be able
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Good luck with this and tell us how it all works out.
> Tomes
asadi - 24 Dec 2006 14:31 GMT
You NEED a manual.

Some cables are advertised as never needing lubrication. Right. Moving metal
exposed to the elements....

http://www.popupportal.com/manuals_2.asp?mf=Jayco

john

<hunyface@aol.com>
>  I have the old bearings.  The people I bought it frorm
> *********said********* they had
> it serviced this year.
hunyface@aol.com - 07 Jan 2007 06:47 GMT
Hi there,

 The RV repair place said not to silicon oil the pop up because of
dirt getting into the silicone and thus the metal...but this may have
been a good way to make sure I would have to go to them again for a fix
it...
  I will hit it with some silicone when I unfold it next.  Thanks for
the help.  It is appreciated.!
> You NEED a manual.
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> > *********said********* they had
> > it serviced this year.
Tomes - 24 Dec 2006 20:33 GMT
>  I have the old bearings.  The people I bought it frorm said they had
> it serviced this year.

That helps.  You might be OK on the bearings then if the squeak is not
coming from there.  Have you isolated it yet by listening?

>      We also have a hard time getting the door up.  The folk I bought
> it from showed me how to mount and dismount the door and they had no
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> because there has to be one...the rest goes up great and coming down is
> not bad.  I wonder if the cables need to be graphite oiled however.

Doors have tricks.  My Coachmen (2-part door) is completely different than
my old Coleman (a 1-part door).  Is it a one part or a 2 part door?  Either
way it must be nestled in properly for it to work right.  Also the popup
must be level for the door to work right too.  If it is not level then the
roof will not be exactly straight up over the tub and the door will not fit
with the same clearance all around it.  This is one of my self-satisfaction
checks "ah - the door works perfectly, I must have it really level this
time".

I do suggest getting advice on it or finding a manual like maybe at the link
john provided in his post:
<http://www.popupportal.com/manuals_2.asp?mf=Jayco>
It will tell you other stuff that you did not even know that you needed to
know.
Tomes
hunyface@aol.com - 07 Jan 2007 06:42 GMT
> >  I have the old bearings.  The people I bought it frorm said they had
> > it serviced this year.

  Found out the "door trick"it needs to snapped in at the top by
holding the frame of the door to the roof...the rv service guy showed
me.

> That helps.  You might be OK on the bearings then if the squeak is not
> coming from there.  Have you isolated it yet by listening?

 Drove it a few more miles to the rv service center where I found it
it had a leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
along with the wireing done so its no longer a 15 amp serviec with a 15
amp ac.  my business partener used a 15 amp with ac for years with no
problems but it ran me 150 to do it...most camp sites I use allow 15
amps so I may not be able to use ac at all...or use ac only in day and
battery powered lights at nigt if ac is eeded.  I am hoping fan alone
will work in a way...but I also think aftet this 1st show i may take
the roof ac off and install a 1500 btu room ac instead...I am not sure
how  melissas rv didnt eat more than 15 amps with ac on high and the tv
and dvd playor on a lot

Glad I started this stuff months before I have to leave...and does any
one know if 30 amp cord can be found in 100 foot lenghts..the rv place
I went to only has 50 feet for 79.00!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cindy

> >      We also have a hard time getting the door up.  The folk I bought
> > it from showed me how to mount and dismount the door and they had no
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> know.
> Tomes
Jim Redelfs - 07 Jan 2007 15:08 GMT
> leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed

That sounds like an AWFULLY high price to REPLACE a regulator.

> along with the wireing done so its no longer a 15 amp
> serviec with a 15 amp ac.

Unless the air conditioner was replaced, it is the SAME air conditioner
requiring the SAME power.  It sounds like they simply swapped-out the
smaller-gauge, 15-amp power cord for the larger 30-amp cord.  You'll need to
buy an adapter so that you can still plug-into regular electrical receptacles.

<http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/M
aintaining-Your-RV/Electrical--Solar/Electrical-Adapters/15-Amp-Male-to-30-Amp-
Female--Adapter-with-90-15-Male-Plug-and-Flat-Cord/skunum=24492>

> my business partener used a 15 amp with ac for years with no
> problems but it ran me 150 to do it...most camp sites I use allow 15
> amps so I may not be able to use ac at all...or use ac only in day and
> battery powered lights at nigt if ac is eeded.

If you camp at an "official" camp site with a 15-amp outlet nearby, and the
place isn't crowded, you should be able to safely run the roof air.  If the
campground is more modern, you should have NO trouble running EVERYTHING all
the time.

If you are camped in the middle of a field some where (show?), where they've
temporarily provided/strung-out electric hookups for campers, you may NOT be
able to run the roof air at all.

> i may take the roof ac off and install a 1500 btu room ac instead.

Don't do it!  You will be VERY disappointed as a 5000 btu room air conditioner
WILL NOT cool your camper adequately.  It's a kludge/compromise in any case.

> ..I am not sure how  melissas rv didnt eat more than 15 amps with ac
> on high and the tv and dvd playor on a lot

I can see it working, but it would be at the MAX if truly ONLY 15-amps was
available.  Just because she was using a 15-amp RATED cord does not mean she
didn't have it connected to a 20-amp capable outlet.  A small, tube-type TV
doesn't use much power.  A DVD player uses almost no power at all.

> does any one know if 30 amp cord can be found in 100 foot lenghts.
> the rv place I went to only has 50 feet for 79.00!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's about the right price and maximum length.

You will NOT be able to find a "factory-made" 100-footer.  There would be too
much voltage drop along such a great distance.  Such a cord, properly made to
avoid voltage drop (which can RUIN your a/c) would weigh a "ton" and cost well
in excess of $100.  I have a 25-footer that I use on rare occasions.  The
length of the 30-amp "shore power cord" the RV place installed on your camper,
plus a 30-amp, 25-ft extension cord, is the MAXIMUM distance you should go.  
If you can't place your camper within 50-ft of a bona fide 20-amp outlet, you
should NOT use the air conditioner.

> Glad I started this stuff months before I have to leave.

Agreed.  You would do well to "camp" in your driveway a few times, then a few
more times not far from home (state park, etc) to get the experience you'll
need if you haven't camped much before.  The last thing you need is to be
learning the basics when you're a "million" miles from home - on a schedule.  
Good luck!
Signature

           :)
JR

hunyface@aol.com - 08 Jan 2007 06:40 GMT
> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>
[quoted text clipped - 63 lines]
>             :)
> JR

  Thanks JR,

 I have camped a lot in vans and last year in my friend's pop up.
Most faires have few boxed to plug into so no one is near the plug ins.
So most campers are running acs,tvs,and lots of other crud from 100
foot cords or in some cases longer ones.  AS in 2 100 foot cords and
this is considered normal.  I would perfer to be 50 foot or so myself.

 I am also thinking of mostly using the ac as a fan instead of a
cooler except maybe at night.
  I have learned if you keep your camper to cold,or your house to cold
in summer being outside feels hotter.  

Cindy
hunyface@aol.com - 08 Jan 2007 07:04 GMT
> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>
> That sounds like an AWFULLY high price to REPLACE a regulator.
>
> >They did a full service,as in checked the lpg lines,packed wheel bearings,did a conversion from 15 ams to 3 amps,and set up the gas pipe line so i can run the stove from a different spot than the one set up origioally.

cindy
Tomes - 09 Jan 2007 03:21 GMT
>> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> cindy

Hi Cindy,
I agree with what Jim has said in his musings.  I am thinking that this is
good preventative maintenance on a rig that you have no history with yet.  A
good start.  Glad you found out what the door trick is - I thought there
would be a trick there.  Mine does that same snappy thing.

My thoughts on the electrical bit is that you can run a lot of stuff on only
15 amps, but as Jim says, when you start running a lot of power lines,
likely branched off of couplers, you will lose voltage.  You really want to
be nest to the original receptacle if you can.  If you are far away the AC
might run, but it might be starving electrically.  I was plugged directly
into a 15 amp line at someone's house and we ran the AC and some other stuff
OK.  Do get that adapter that Jim linked to.  They are about $5 and I have 2
of them stowed in 2 different spots as I seem to be always losing one...  I
also agree to use the AC on top and forget about using a window AC unit.

Tomes
hunyface@aol.com - 10 Jan 2007 06:06 GMT
> >> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Tomes

 I set up the pop up today,needed to load ALL the stuff I bought for
it,dishes,towels,pots and pans,sheets and blankets,scissors jack,and
fix the rip on one of the bunk canvas covers.  Then I discoverd i had a
lot of water on one of my privacy curtians and I have NO Idea how the
water got in...we had some rain this last weekend but can not find the
source of the leak at all.  the pop up doenst quite close to an overlap
on the front but its less than a fingernail width.  I tried the trick
of pushing the back of the roof to get the overlap better but it is the
same.  I plan on getting a cover for the pop up asap now.  I also plan
on using a tarp over the camper when I am in the campground if the
campground folks will let me.
  Tomorrow is practice the back up manuver in an empty parking lot.

cindy
Wesley - 11 Jan 2007 13:06 GMT
If you want to fix the leak for good, leave it uncovered when you're
camping.  If you can catch it in the act of leaking, you'll have a much
better chance of nailing down where it's coming from.  Also could be that it
won't leak when it's open...if it's sneaking around a coner when it's
closed.

Wesley

>   I set up the pop up today,needed to load ALL the stuff I bought for
> it,dishes,towels,pots and pans,sheets and blankets,scissors jack,and
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> cindy
hunyface@aol.com - 12 Jan 2007 05:28 GMT
I plan on doing that to.  However I did not want to have to spend the
day taking everytinbg down when I need to work. I dont camp for fun.,.I
work during the week and sell during weekends so for me to take 2 days
off during a busy show is bad I get half a day off a week during
season.  I would rather solve the problem now,when it is not crucial.
During late November and December I do nothing so it evens out.
  I put the silicon repair stuff in the camper so until I put it up
again I can not fix the leak.  So the poor thing is now covered by a
tarp in the driveway.  I was going to run a bead of silicone on the
roof like I did on the rear end.  the rear no longer leaks.
  On the other paw, the seller can not give me the darn key.  So I
called an RV place to replace the door knob it would be 80-100 for the
labor and was told it would very difficult to remove the knob from the
door..  So I called a locksmith and found they could make a key if they
had the lock maybe.  2 hours lator I pulled the dang thing and had new
keys for about 10.00!!!!!!!!Rv places are rip offs it seems.  But if
you need them,you need them.
  I wish there were cheap camping places in Fort Lauderdale,or
Deerfield Beach in Florida because I will get 15 amps and a spot for
440. and that seems like  alot for only 15 amps.  (other reason why I
am thinking of a smaller ac.  )
   It is supposed to rain here tomorrow and if I can get other stuff
done that I need to,I may set up the camper and see if I can find the
leak.
> If you want to fix the leak for good, leave it uncovered when you're
> camping.  If you can catch it in the act of leaking, you'll have a much
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> >
> > cindy
Andrew - 23 Dec 2006 06:11 GMT
Congrats Cindy.

Hope you get many years of fun out of your new camper.

A small 3 way fridge can be installed in the space where your icebox is.
It's expensive. If you plan to camp at serviced sites you can also use a
dorm fridge. Or you do like I do and use the icebox and coolers.

Personally I found the RV fridges to be too small to be any advantage. I
usually had to bring along a cooler to hold all of our food anyway.

Happy camping.
Andrew

> HI all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> transmission cooler installed before towing.  
>      Cindy
asadi - 23 Dec 2006 22:16 GMT
Well cooled/frozen foods work good in the coolers...you don't have to open
them much.  I use the fridge for a couple cold ones, some pops, bedtime
snacks and morning cereal.  Sausage gravy freezes well and goes good in the
fridge...

john

> Congrats Cindy.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>>   I looked at my temp and it never went above the 1/4 mark.  I had a
>> transmission cooler installed before towing.  Cindy
hunyface@aol.com - 23 Dec 2006 22:50 GMT
Hello all,

  I am going to be in this for months at at time so the freezing jugs
idea is not possible..I have some time to deal with this at least.
What I may do is put the food in the icebox and get a dorm fridge for
the cold stuff.
    I had nothing in this when I towed it home yesterday so it was dry
wieght and no load shifting.  I spend part of today callling rv places
and I would think this close to the biggest shopping day they would be
open....

> Well cooled/frozen foods work good in the coolers...you don't have to open
> them much.  I use the fridge for a couple cold ones, some pops, bedtime
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> >>   I looked at my temp and it never went above the 1/4 mark.  I had a
> >> transmission cooler installed before towing.  Cindy
Rich256 - 24 Dec 2006 02:46 GMT
> Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> and I would think this close to the biggest shopping day they would be
> open....

The frig in a pop up is pretty small.  Smaller than the dorm.  So if you
are going to have electric hookups the dorm is the way to go.  Just get
a portable cooler that you can sit outside.  Then again get the biggest
 dorm type you can carry and set it up outside.
Tomes - 24 Dec 2006 20:19 GMT
>> Hello all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> portable cooler that you can sit outside.  Then again get the biggest dorm
> type you can carry and set it up outside.

I am agreeing with this approach as well.  I forgot that you are planning to
set up for weeks at a time while plugged in.  I would get a fridge that I
would carry around in that big tow vehicle you have and just set it up under
the awning, under a table plugged in directly to the site-provided outlet.

Or - thinking _way_ outside of the box here - maybe get a small freezer and
keep making ice for a bunch of coolers.....
Tomes
Oklahoma Joe - 23 Dec 2006 20:47 GMT
Sucker!!

> HI all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> transmission cooler installed before towing.
>      Cindy

--
Man is the only Patriot. He sets himself apart in his own country, under
his own flag, and sneers at the other nations, and keeps multitudinous
uniformed assassins on hand at heavy expense to grab slices of other
people's countries, and keep them from grabbing slices of his. And in the
intervals between campaigns he washes the blood of his hands and works for
"the universal brotherhood of man"- with his mouth.
asadi - 23 Dec 2006 22:16 GMT
Squeaking on the ball is usually only a problem when you have greater tongue
weights as on a box trailer. As long as your ball and hook up is not rusty
that should not be a problem.

Tugging on the streets could mean your ball height is improper. In your
manual...when it gives the ball height...that is the height 'after' the
trailer is attached.  Your trailer should tow level.

Another cause of squeaking...which has been previously mentioned is the
springs and bearings. WD-40 will take care of the springs. Go ahead and have
the wheel bearings packed.  Unless the previous owner was meticulous in his
maintenance - I would just go ahead and have the bearings replaced and be
done with it.

Grease (in the bearings) wears out from non-use as opposed to age. In the
winter months when I am not using my trailer as much (I'm out twice a month
when the temps are above freezing) I will hook it up and take a ten or
fifteen mile trip up the freeway just to get the moving parts to a normal
operating temperature.

That will pretty much insure bearing grease life. For those who only take
their trailer out once or twice a year it is recommended to re-pack the
bearings every spring.

john

> HI all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> transmission cooler installed before towing.
>     Cindy
asadi - 25 Dec 2006 10:28 GMT
Hey cin,

you do what...state fairs or festivals of a type?

Ever do any in Ohio, Indiana or Kentucky?

I think you said you do a lot of sewing?

john...married a kid and a dog...the dog was the kid's xmas present

> HI all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> transmission cooler installed before towing.
>     Cindy
 
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