> > I have the old bearings. The people I bought it frorm said they had
> > it serviced this year.
> That helps. You might be OK on the bearings then if the squeak is not
> coming from there. Have you isolated it yet by listening?
> > We also have a hard time getting the door up. The folk I bought
> > it from showed me how to mount and dismount the door and they had no
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> know.
> Tomes
> leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
That sounds like an AWFULLY high price to REPLACE a regulator.
> along with the wireing done so its no longer a 15 amp
> serviec with a 15 amp ac.
Unless the air conditioner was replaced, it is the SAME air conditioner
requiring the SAME power. It sounds like they simply swapped-out the
smaller-gauge, 15-amp power cord for the larger 30-amp cord. You'll need to
buy an adapter so that you can still plug-into regular electrical receptacles.
<http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/M
aintaining-Your-RV/Electrical--Solar/Electrical-Adapters/15-Amp-Male-to-30-Amp-
Female--Adapter-with-90-15-Male-Plug-and-Flat-Cord/skunum=24492>
> my business partener used a 15 amp with ac for years with no
> problems but it ran me 150 to do it...most camp sites I use allow 15
> amps so I may not be able to use ac at all...or use ac only in day and
> battery powered lights at nigt if ac is eeded.
If you camp at an "official" camp site with a 15-amp outlet nearby, and the
place isn't crowded, you should be able to safely run the roof air. If the
campground is more modern, you should have NO trouble running EVERYTHING all
the time.
If you are camped in the middle of a field some where (show?), where they've
temporarily provided/strung-out electric hookups for campers, you may NOT be
able to run the roof air at all.
> i may take the roof ac off and install a 1500 btu room ac instead.
Don't do it! You will be VERY disappointed as a 5000 btu room air conditioner
WILL NOT cool your camper adequately. It's a kludge/compromise in any case.
> ..I am not sure how melissas rv didnt eat more than 15 amps with ac
> on high and the tv and dvd playor on a lot
I can see it working, but it would be at the MAX if truly ONLY 15-amps was
available. Just because she was using a 15-amp RATED cord does not mean she
didn't have it connected to a 20-amp capable outlet. A small, tube-type TV
doesn't use much power. A DVD player uses almost no power at all.
> does any one know if 30 amp cord can be found in 100 foot lenghts.
> the rv place I went to only has 50 feet for 79.00!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's about the right price and maximum length.
You will NOT be able to find a "factory-made" 100-footer. There would be too
much voltage drop along such a great distance. Such a cord, properly made to
avoid voltage drop (which can RUIN your a/c) would weigh a "ton" and cost well
in excess of $100. I have a 25-footer that I use on rare occasions. The
length of the 30-amp "shore power cord" the RV place installed on your camper,
plus a 30-amp, 25-ft extension cord, is the MAXIMUM distance you should go.
If you can't place your camper within 50-ft of a bona fide 20-amp outlet, you
should NOT use the air conditioner.
> Glad I started this stuff months before I have to leave.
Agreed. You would do well to "camp" in your driveway a few times, then a few
more times not far from home (state park, etc) to get the experience you'll
need if you haven't camped much before. The last thing you need is to be
learning the basics when you're a "million" miles from home - on a schedule.
Good luck!

Signature
:)
JR
hunyface@aol.com - 08 Jan 2007 06:40 GMT
> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>
[quoted text clipped - 63 lines]
> :)
> JR
Thanks JR,
I have camped a lot in vans and last year in my friend's pop up.
Most faires have few boxed to plug into so no one is near the plug ins.
So most campers are running acs,tvs,and lots of other crud from 100
foot cords or in some cases longer ones. AS in 2 100 foot cords and
this is considered normal. I would perfer to be 50 foot or so myself.
I am also thinking of mostly using the ac as a fan instead of a
cooler except maybe at night.
I have learned if you keep your camper to cold,or your house to cold
in summer being outside feels hotter.
Cindy
hunyface@aol.com - 08 Jan 2007 07:04 GMT
> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>
> That sounds like an AWFULLY high price to REPLACE a regulator.
>
> >They did a full service,as in checked the lpg lines,packed wheel bearings,did a conversion from 15 ams to 3 amps,and set up the gas pipe line so i can run the stove from a different spot than the one set up origioally.
cindy
Tomes - 09 Jan 2007 03:21 GMT
>> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
>>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> cindy
Hi Cindy,
I agree with what Jim has said in his musings. I am thinking that this is
good preventative maintenance on a rig that you have no history with yet. A
good start. Glad you found out what the door trick is - I thought there
would be a trick there. Mine does that same snappy thing.
My thoughts on the electrical bit is that you can run a lot of stuff on only
15 amps, but as Jim says, when you start running a lot of power lines,
likely branched off of couplers, you will lose voltage. You really want to
be nest to the original receptacle if you can. If you are far away the AC
might run, but it might be starving electrically. I was plugged directly
into a 15 amp line at someone's house and we ran the AC and some other stuff
OK. Do get that adapter that Jim linked to. They are about $5 and I have 2
of them stowed in 2 different spots as I seem to be always losing one... I
also agree to use the AC on top and forget about using a window AC unit.
Tomes
hunyface@aol.com - 10 Jan 2007 06:06 GMT
> >> > leak at the lpg cylander regulator so after 330 buks its fixed
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Tomes
I set up the pop up today,needed to load ALL the stuff I bought for
it,dishes,towels,pots and pans,sheets and blankets,scissors jack,and
fix the rip on one of the bunk canvas covers. Then I discoverd i had a
lot of water on one of my privacy curtians and I have NO Idea how the
water got in...we had some rain this last weekend but can not find the
source of the leak at all. the pop up doenst quite close to an overlap
on the front but its less than a fingernail width. I tried the trick
of pushing the back of the roof to get the overlap better but it is the
same. I plan on getting a cover for the pop up asap now. I also plan
on using a tarp over the camper when I am in the campground if the
campground folks will let me.
Tomorrow is practice the back up manuver in an empty parking lot.
cindy
Wesley - 11 Jan 2007 13:06 GMT
If you want to fix the leak for good, leave it uncovered when you're
camping. If you can catch it in the act of leaking, you'll have a much
better chance of nailing down where it's coming from. Also could be that it
won't leak when it's open...if it's sneaking around a coner when it's
closed.
Wesley
> I set up the pop up today,needed to load ALL the stuff I bought for
> it,dishes,towels,pots and pans,sheets and blankets,scissors jack,and
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> cindy
hunyface@aol.com - 12 Jan 2007 05:28 GMT
I plan on doing that to. However I did not want to have to spend the
day taking everytinbg down when I need to work. I dont camp for fun.,.I
work during the week and sell during weekends so for me to take 2 days
off during a busy show is bad I get half a day off a week during
season. I would rather solve the problem now,when it is not crucial.
During late November and December I do nothing so it evens out.
I put the silicon repair stuff in the camper so until I put it up
again I can not fix the leak. So the poor thing is now covered by a
tarp in the driveway. I was going to run a bead of silicone on the
roof like I did on the rear end. the rear no longer leaks.
On the other paw, the seller can not give me the darn key. So I
called an RV place to replace the door knob it would be 80-100 for the
labor and was told it would very difficult to remove the knob from the
door.. So I called a locksmith and found they could make a key if they
had the lock maybe. 2 hours lator I pulled the dang thing and had new
keys for about 10.00!!!!!!!!Rv places are rip offs it seems. But if
you need them,you need them.
I wish there were cheap camping places in Fort Lauderdale,or
Deerfield Beach in Florida because I will get 15 amps and a spot for
440. and that seems like alot for only 15 amps. (other reason why I
am thinking of a smaller ac. )
It is supposed to rain here tomorrow and if I can get other stuff
done that I need to,I may set up the camper and see if I can find the
leak.
> If you want to fix the leak for good, leave it uncovered when you're
> camping. If you can catch it in the act of leaking, you'll have a much
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> >
> > cindy