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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / November 2007

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Outdoor Camper Storage

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lagman - 23 Oct 2007 13:30 GMT
All,

I just moved to Iowa from the south and will be storing my popup
camper outdoors this winter.  Can anyone offer any tips?  I'd like to
minimize the effects of the harsh winter.  I assume some type of water
proof camper cover is essential.  Plus, I plan on draining the water
tank to prevent freezing.

Thanks,
Dan
Mark E. Bye - 23 Oct 2007 13:57 GMT
>All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Thanks,
>Dan

I'm just about finished with my annual ritual.  Living in northern
Wisconsin, I take extra care with my camper with regards to protecting
it from the harsh winters.

First, I unload everything.  Especially anything that mice might find
good to eat or nest in.  All the mattresses and seating cushions come
in and get stored in the basement.

I vacuum and mop the floor and wipe down all hard surfaces.

I put a few of those small wedge shaped packages of  "D-Con"
inside a number of the storage compartments.

Make sure your tent material is clean and dry.

Obviously, drain any water supply lines and tanks.

Using a floor jack, I raise the rear end of the camper and place jack
stands underneath, remove the tires and spare, storing them in the
garage, on their sides, with a piece of cardboard between them.

I wash the exterior of the camper, blow dry it with a leaf blower and
let it air dry for the rest of the day.

Take WD-40 or silicon spray and it the wheels, lug nuts, folding step,
crank, hitch tongue, etc.

Finally, I take a GRAY heavy duty plastic tarp, cover the camper and
tie it down.  I've read that gray will reflect more of the sun's heat
and not absorb as much as one of the blue tarps will, possibly
preventing heat build up and subsequent damage to the interior of the
camper while it's covered.

Have fun!

Mark
AustinMN - 23 Oct 2007 19:01 GMT
> >All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> First, I unload everything.  Especially anything that mice might find
> good to eat or nest in.

This is wise advice.

> All the mattresses and seating cushions come
> in and get stored in the basement.

Probably a bit extreme.  But if you've had mice in your camper, I can
understand why.

> I vacuum and mop the floor and wipe down all hard surfaces.
>
> I put a few of those small wedge shaped packages of  "D-Con"
> inside a number of the storage compartments.

Have you done anything to protect neighborhood pets?  I used to use D-
Con to control pests, but never again.

> Make sure your tent material is clean and dry.
>
> Obviously, drain any water supply lines and tanks.

Draining is not always enough.  Most of us in the frozen north either:
1) Remove all water by blowing out the lines with compressed air or
2) Fill the system with RV antifreeze (do not use automotive
antifreeze, because some of it will kill you).

If you do nothing else, DO THIS.

> Using a floor jack, I raise the rear end of the camper and place jack
> stands underneath, remove the tires and spare, storing them in the
> garage, on their sides, with a piece of cardboard between them.

Again, this won't do any harm, but probably isn't necessary.  Just get
the tires off the ground (not on dirt or grass, or where they will sit
in water), and make sure the pressure is at the tire's max.  Some will
try to tell you to cover the tires to protect from UV rays.  While
that won't do any harm, it probably doesn't help much either.

I got 25,000 miles and 5 years from a set of Duros that sat on boards
all winter with the full weight of the camper on them, without any UV
protection.

OTOH, putting it on stands with the tires locked indoors will force a
would-be thief to bring his own tires.

> I wash the exterior of the camper, blow dry it with a leaf blower and
> let it air dry for the rest of the day.
>
> Take WD-40 or silicon spray and it the wheels, lug nuts, folding step,
> crank, hitch tongue, etc.

Use both, starting with the WD-40, then follow with the silicone
spray.  WD-40 is a terrible lubricant, but cleans things OK.

> Finally, I take a GRAY heavy duty plastic tarp, cover the camper and
> tie it down.  I've read that gray will reflect more of the sun's heat
> and not absorb as much as one of the blue tarps will, possibly
> preventing heat build up and subsequent damage to the interior of the
> camper while it's covered.

Manufacturers say don't cover with anything.  Not only do tarps trap
heat, but they significantly increase the risk of excess condensation.

I have never covered my trailer, and after 7 years, hundreds of
campgrounds, and 30,000 miles, I've yet to have a hint of water inside
except from leaky plumbing.

Austin
rigger - 24 Oct 2007 00:00 GMT
>  WD-40 is a terrible lubricant, but cleans things OK.

WD-40 was never designed to be a lubricant; it's a water displacer (and not a
very good one, at that). The cleaning effect comes from the displacing
solvents under pressure.  Unfortunately, that effect is only temporary,
because WD-40 leaves a film that, while it provides a modicum of corrosion
protection, is also a very effective dirt/dust magnet...

LPS-1, Tri-Flow or a good silicone spray would be a better choice for a light
lube, or if you need heavy-duty lube and can control the dirt, one of those
"grease-gun-in-a-can" sprays that spray on thin and set up into a heavier
grease are quite useful.

-Dave

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Tony Wesley - 05 Nov 2007 06:00 GMT
> >  WD-40 is a terrible lubricant, but cleans things OK.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> because WD-40 leaves a film that, while it provides a modicum of corrosion
> protection, is also a very effective dirt/dust magnet...

I've never understood the strong feelings people have about
WD-40.  Some love it and think it's a miracle cure.  Others
hate it.

I use three cans of spray lubricants: silicone, lithium grease,
and WD-40.  I think they all have their place.

Oh, that film that WD-40 leaves behind?  It is, at least in part,
"Petroleum Base Oil" aka Petroleum Lube Oil.  Check the MSDS for
WD-40.

You'll find the same thing on the MSDS for Tri-flow.
CAS 64742-65-0

WD-40 is basically mineral spirits, kerosene, and lube oil.

> LPS-1, Tri-Flow or a good silicone spray would be a better choice for a light
> lube, or if you need heavy-duty lube and can control the dirt, one of those
> "grease-gun-in-a-can" sprays that spray on thin and set up into a heavier
> grease are quite useful.
>
> -Dave

Whatever you're happy with.  I use silicone spray, too.
rigger - 05 Nov 2007 09:00 GMT
> I've never understood the strong feelings people have about
> WD-40.  Some love it and think it's a miracle cure.  Others
> hate it.

Dunno what to tell ya...

I've been a theatrical technician for about 25 years now, working on a fair
amount of close-tolerance rigging and automated-scenery machinery backstage.
I'm also a shadetree motorcycle mechanic, and done a bit of gunsmithing, both
hobbies for closer to 35 years.  I've seen firsthand what WD-40 can do in a
number of different applications, and frankly I'm underwhelmed with the
product.

I've never had the gunking problems with Tri-Flow that I've had with WD-40.
Maybe it's the teflon in Tri-Flow, maybe not, but whatever the reason for it
is, it doesn't attract anywhere near the amount of dirt that WD-40 does.

But, as you say, whatever you're happy with...

-Dave

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Zyp - 11 Nov 2007 21:20 GMT
>> I've never understood the strong feelings people have about
>> WD-40.  Some love it and think it's a miracle cure.  Others
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> rigger-at-TDS-dot-net
> IATSE#274   DoD#2117   ACGwB#5   NGI#666   BMoZ#[classified]

Rigger;

I too have found WD-40 to gum and attract dirt / dust like a magnet.

You like Tri-Flow?  Maybe I'll give it a go.

Signature

Zyp

rigger - 12 Nov 2007 22:56 GMT
> You like Tri-Flow?  Maybe I'll give it a go.

I've been quite happy with it. Makes an excellent cable lube, for motorcycle
or bicycle cables, among other uses where collected dirt would be fatal.

-Dave

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Wesley - 24 Oct 2007 13:10 GMT
You apparently haven't owned a camper long enough.  :-)  Given time, you'll
eventually have a leak somewhere.  The worst are the ones you think you have
fixed, but are still rotting away without you knowing about it.  Been there,
done that...but not with a pop-up:

http://www.megley.com/photos/camperrepair

I'd agree with the tarp issues...  Then it gets windy and beats the finish
off your trailer, etc.  I'm hoping to get one of those metal carports to
park our travel trailer under.

Wesley

> I have never covered my trailer, and after 7 years, hundreds of
> campgrounds, and 30,000 miles, I've yet to have a hint of water inside
> except from leaky plumbing.
>
> Austin
tobe - 23 Oct 2007 21:45 GMT
> I just moved to Iowa from the south and will be storing my popup
> camper outdoors this winter.  Can anyone offer any tips?  I'd like to
> minimize the effects of the harsh winter.  I assume some type of water
> proof camper cover is essential.  Plus, I plan on draining the water
> tank to prevent freezing.

I have used mothballs...a few tied in the toe of old socks in key places
in the camper..to try and keep critters out in the winter.  I have no
evidence that his really works, but I also have never had critters in
the camper!

I have heard NOT to use a tarp over a camper, because of moisture
condensation.  If you want to use something, get a cover that is the
same as the material used in the better car covers:  it breathes and
there is less condensation underneath.

I agree with putting the camper up on jacks...to keep the axle pressure
off of the wheel bearings.  My camper manual recommended taking the
wheels off of the camper for the winter, but I never did.  UV light
degrades tires, so if you are leaving it outside, make sure the tires
are covered with something (they make expensive tire covers, but some
pieces of plastic material tied around them should suffice).

I guess I wonder about how deep the snow gets in Iowa, and if you need
to worry about melting snow getting inside the camper...through holes in
the bottom of the camper or around the door, for example.  If that is a
worry, some simple exterior plywood pieces propped around the base of
the camper would suffice.

If you can find a place that will store it for the winter, this may be
the best bet.  A relative in Maine stores his pop-up for $12 a foot for
the season...indoors, not heated, access to the camper guaranteed (i.e.
it is not behind 23 others come Spring).  I would check on their
insurance, though.
rigger - 24 Oct 2007 00:02 GMT
> UV light
> degrades tires, so if you are leaving it outside, make sure the tires
> are covered with something (they make expensive tire covers, but some
> pieces of plastic material tied around them should suffice).

Heavy-duty trash bags work well for this, and you can get enough to winterize
your pop-up for the next century for the price of a set of store-bought tire
covers.

-Dave

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Sparky - 24 Oct 2007 00:38 GMT
I'm glad to see some new posts on here.

I found a warehouse that will store my PU for 17.00 a month.  No heat
but its dry and I can have access anytime I need the PU.

I guess I should look into new tires as they are the originals and
the PU is 12 years old now.  I really don't put many miles on it
anymore.  I only use it 2 times a year these days.

Haywood
miles - 24 Oct 2007 02:27 GMT
> I'm glad to see some new posts on here.
>
> I found a warehouse that will store my PU for 17.00 a month.  No heat
> but its dry and I can have access anytime I need the PU.

Must be nice paying so little!  I pay about $110/month for covered
storage.  Uncovered would be about $65 but here in AZ the hot sun
destroys an RV quick.
Mark Jones - 24 Oct 2007 03:04 GMT
>> I'm glad to see some new posts on here.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> storage.  Uncovered would be about $65 but here in AZ the hot sun
> destroys an RV quick.

I like my price even better, free. It is in the left side of my 2 car
garage, parked next to my Corvette. The truck gets to stay
outside in the driveway.
pmbaltzell - 28 Oct 2007 15:15 GMT
We live in South Dakota and the winters are very tuff.  Long periods of
cold.  I pay the price and store our pop up for at least 6 months (Oct -
March).  I drain the hot water heater and disconect the hoses to it.  I've
made a by pass hose that connects the two water heater hoses together and
then I fill the water hoses with RV antifreeze.  You have to open the
outdoor shower knobs and sink knobs and pump from the jug of antifreeze.  We
have a water filter at the sink too so I take that out and by pass that for
the winter.  I toss the filter and replace in the spring.  My wife uses a
box of dryer sheets, like Bounce, and spreads them all over the pop up.
Mice don't like them.  I've seen a pop up that one mouse wintered in and it
chewed the heck out of just the window screen.  I take the battery out and
store it at home in my shop.  Not on the cement floor though.  Useally just
on 2x4s.
katie@snow.com - 28 Oct 2007 17:25 GMT
> We live in South Dakota and the winters are very tuff.  Long periods of
> cold.  I pay the price and store our pop up for at least 6 months (Oct -
> March).  I drain the hot water heater and disconect the hoses to it.  I've
> made a by pass hose that connects the two water heater hoses together and
> then I fill the water hoses with RV antifreeze.  You have to open the

? My wife uses a
> box of dryer sheets, like Bounce, and spreads them all over the pop up.
> Mice don't like them.  I've seen a pop up that one mouse wintered in and it
> chewed the heck out of just the window screen.  

I've heard it's best to put mothballs in several jars and leave the jars
open while the camper is not in use during all seasons.  Close the jars
up and air the camper, for a day, before using.  That, and you might
look for any tiny, tiny space where they might get in and stuff steel
wool in it.  I've heard that bounce works and I've heard that it
doesn't.  I also put cedar blocks in drawers/cabinets, etc.  It doesn't
smell bad and you can buy it at any linen store.  I also spray ant/roach
repellent around the tires, hitch, stabilizers, and around anything that
allows entrance--like the utility post at a campground.

--
Wesley - 29 Oct 2007 02:37 GMT
No longer true in this day and age...apparently it was an issue many many
many years ago though...

Wesley

> chewed the heck out of just the window screen.  I take the battery out and
> store it at home in my shop.  Not on the cement floor though.  Useally just
> on 2x4s.
 
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