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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / May 2005Is it possible ?
Or is it stupid to think that I can remove the top window in the top of the front of my class c and fill it back in with plywood and or strifoam .Then fiberglass over that , sand it down and paint it and stop the leaking . If I remove the window, what can I replace it with to stop the leak?? thanks. Larry >Or is it stupid to think that I can remove the top window in the top of the >front of my class c and fill it back in with plywood and or strifoam .Then >fiberglass over that , sand it down and paint it and stop the leaking . If I >remove the window, what can I replace it with to stop the leak?? > >thanks. Larry You can do that, removing the window usually isn't a big problem. When you remove the window make sure to check the surrounding area for damage caused by the leaking window, that's usually where you run into more serious problems. You may end up having to replace some of the wood in that area. Which may require you to take most of that section apart. Depends upon what you find. If the rest of your RV is fiberglass, just fill with something and then fiberglass over that area and paint to match. If it's aluminum and you want to match it contact the manufacturer of the RV about getting aluminum panels to match or go to a local dealer who sells that RV and ask them if aluminum panels are available. Fill the area with plywood and cover with the aluminum. Your carpentry and handyman skills will determine just how big a job it is. Take care and Happy Campin... RichA "We Get Too Soon Olde and Too Late Smart" >>Or is it stupid to think that I can remove the top window in the top of >>the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> >>thanks. Larry Leave that window alone, fix the leak. Recently I found a fairly expensive water leak miracle stopper called "Through the Roof (TTR)". This stuff looks and acts like fiberglass resin, even smells like it, but comes premixed and ready to slap on any leak. And, it works. Directions say it can be applied wet. It appears to draw itself into any seep holes that you brush it on. TTR is not stocked by every hardware store so you should call around. In Houston I found it at Turners HW. When I went to get more (and looking for a better price) Home Depot does not stock. Perhaps Lowes does. Costs $35 a gallon, almost as expensive as good whiskey! I have gasket sealed 4x8 office windows (70) that were leaking up hill (capillary) and I tried most everything to fix the problem, even reset and resealed some windows ($100 each), but who every heard of windows leaking at the top, and under an alcove. I've not tried is on a vehicle but I bet it will work. What's $12 if it seals the window. If it don't work, pull and replace window as you've planned. This TTR is fairly hard to do a neat job when working with it so try to do it in such away that its not to messy looking. But then again, you might just like the leaks gone like I did and the heck with what it looks like. Window blinds covered my over paint. Remember masking tape is a decorator's friend and helps to forgive many mistakes. Diamond Jim Larry, Not having seen the original post I will nevertheless venture forth with some suggestions. In a vehicle water can run uphill when moving in a rain. That said, water seeks to move down (gravity). I would check out everything above the window first. Roof edge, roof condition, wall above that contains any joint or riveting. Any seams even relatively close to the window. A window frame in a vehicle may need to be removed and re-set or bedded in sealer (caulking) the same as the window (glass). If it is a rubber frame with a "zipper" you may have a dry frame that has shrunk. Two piece (metal) compression frames, one in and one outside may need to be removed and shimmed glazing tape installed to compress against when reinstalling. This along with sealant on both edges of the tape give a great seal. Trying to take it out without first knowing the source of the leak is looking for trouble. Try water testing it with a hose. Start below the window and slowly, very slowly, raise the stream of water until you see a leak. If you are planning to replace damaged wall material, remove it first so you can see whare water is entering during the water test. Hope this helps. >>>>>Or is it stupid to think that I can remove the top window in the top of >>>>>the [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >>>resealed some windows ($100 each), but who every heard of windows leaking at >>>the top, and under an alcove. Jim? I have never in 35 years in the glazing industry heard of water running uphill. Water will infiltrate a window frame if the building is negative pressure, there is a very strong wind or the water is coming from above the frame and filling the frame beyond its capacity to drain. Water from above can enter qiute a distance away through many sources. Plugged drain or weep holes may also be the culprit. Another problem which is commonly blamed on leaking windows is sweating or condensation forming on the inside and dripping down like a leak. I have drilled holes in many frames just to prove to the owner there is no water inside the frame. Condensation can provide enough water to convince most people there is a leak. If the "leak stopped when you coated the frame member with this substance you are referring to I, without seeing it, would guess condensation was the problem. You mention gasket sealed windows. Can you describe them better? We can take this to e-mail if you would like. >>>I've not tried is on a vehicle but I bet it will work. What's $12 if it >>>seals the window. If it don't work, pull and replace window as you've [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >>> >>>Diamond Jim danl4x@charter.net Remove the x for e-mail reply www.outdoorfrontiers.com www.SecretWeaponLures.com A proud charter member of "PETAF", People for Eating Tasty Animals and Fish!!! If you have running lights above the window like most have, check the light fixtures for leaks. I had a Winnebago that looked like the top window was leaking but it was the clearance lights above that. Simple fix. Common problem. Andy > Or is it stupid to think that I can remove the top window in the top of > the front of my class c and fill it back in with plywood and or strifoam [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > thanks. Larry |
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