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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / July 2005tire load range
greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front tires. every tire store i call asks what kind of load range i want. i have no idea. we dont use the the rv much if that makes any difference. also the last place i called asked me if i wanted 10 ply and i explained that i didn't know my plys from one another. any recommendations / info would be appreciated thanks cj I see where cj <changbah@charter.net> contributed: >greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front >tires. every tire store i call asks what kind of load range i want. i >have no idea. we dont use the the rv much if that makes any difference. >also the last place i called asked me if i wanted 10 ply and i explained >that i didn't know my plys from one another. any recommendations / info >would be appreciated At least - an RV-related question! Easy answer: WEIGH the rig to determine how much weight is on those tires. Choose a tire that a) Fits the wheels b) Is rated to carry AT LEAST that much load The "load range" is designated by a letter (C, D, E etc) To do it right, consult an inflation chart, which will also tell you how much air you ought to use for your actual weight. If your chosen dealer doesn't have a chart, choose another that does. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >I see where cj <changbah@charter.net> contributed: >>greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >Will Sill >The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill The tires on your rig don't have any markings? That's kinda strange. Yup . . . I see where Mr. Crowley <ringrhymer@yahoo.dot.com> contributed to this series: cj <changbah@charter.net>: >>>greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front >>>tires . . . . any recommendations / info >>>would be appreciated Will: >>Easy answer: WEIGH the rig to determine how much weight is on those >>tires. Choose a tire that [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >>how much air you ought to use for your actual weight. If your chosen >>dealer doesn't have a chart, choose another that does. Crowley: >The tires on your rig don't have any markings? > >That's kinda strange. The tires on the rig now are not _necessarily_ correct. My recomendation should get him the right rubber even if he has the wrong tires now. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill > greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front tires. > every tire store i call asks what kind of load range i want. i have no > idea. we dont use the the rv much if that makes any difference. also the > last place i called asked me if i wanted 10 ply and i explained that i > didn't know my plys from one another. any recommendations / info would be > appreciated There should be a tag on the driver's door frame giving the tire specifications.  SignatureJon JPinOH Load range E is a good choice for your motorhome. The original tires were probably load range D. The new tires should be inflated to at least 60 lbs. > greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front > tires. every tire store i call asks what kind of load range i want. i [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > would be appreciated > thanks cj I see where "lgadbois" <lgadbois@earthlink.net> contributed: >Load range E is a good choice for your motorhome. The original tires were >probably load range D. The new tires should be inflated to at least 60 lbs. Very bad advice, since all you know is that the OP has a >>a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) You MIGHT be right, but you're shooting in the dark unless you KNOW his weight and tire size. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill the exisiting tires are lt215 85r16 inflate to 60 lbs. they are not the original tires. i cant think of where to have my rig weighed. perhaps there is a little metal info tag with the weight stamped on it on the inside of the door frame. maybe i should choose the highest load rated tires. i'll have to check it out cj > I see where "lgadbois" <lgadbois@earthlink.net> contributed: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Will Sill > The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill I see where cj <changbah@charter.net> contributed: >the exisiting tires are lt215 85r16 inflate to 60 lbs. they are not the >original tires. i cant think of where to have my rig weighed. perhaps >there is a little metal info tag with the weight stamped on it on the >inside of the door frame. maybe i should choose the highest load rated >tires. i'll have to check it out I don't think you understand. You can get your rig weighed in dozens of different places, but I dunno where you live (and don't care) so you will have to look in the phone book under SCALES, call the coal company, the feed supplier, etc. The "little metal tag" only lists the GVWR and axle ratings, and is totally useless in terms of your actual loaded weight. If there is something on tires, follow that until you take my advice and WEIGH the rig axle by axle and consult an inflation chart. But do as you please. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill Re: tire load range >snip< > i cant think of where to have my rig weighed. Try a commercial truck stop with a "Cat Scales" sign if you live close to an interstate or major hiway. Or look in the Yellow Pages under "weighers"; some moving companies have truck scales. I got my Class B Roadtrek weighed (3 weights; F, R, & total) at the local Allied Van Lines place for $7.00. Quarries and sand yards are other possibilities. Scrap metal dealers have scales, but there's a _real_ risk of a puncture. Corner weights are best, but not always possible due the layont of the scales. You can get the most important info from axle weights. Load as for travel, including fuel, passengers, supplies, etc. >snip< >maybe i should choose the highest load rated >tires. i'll have to check it out Probably that's what you need, considering what's avalable. But it's better to make an informed decision. It's really not that difficult, may be cheaper, and it may be safer. Too stiff a tire will ride harshly, and may cause control difficulties in extreme case. But it's your money.... > the exisiting tires are lt215 85r16 inflate to 60 lbs. they are not the > original tires. i cant think of where to have my rig weighed. perhaps [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >> Will Sill >> The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill The 215x85x16 LR D are the correct size tire for your rig. I wouldn't argue with the 60psi inflation pressure. These tires will more than support the GVWR of your rig. The weak link is factory rims. Their rated capacity is an exact match for the axle weight ratings. Have this same setup, make, yr, length. Using tire inflation charts the max weight the rims can handle is reached with 58psi. The fact I have the same rig may or may not bring on alt opinions. Mickey > The 215x85x16 LR D are the correct size tire for your rig. I wouldn't > argue with the 60psi inflation pressure. These tires will more than > support the GVWR of your rig. The weak link is factory rims. Their rated > capacity is an exact match for the axle weight ratings. I would hesitate to take that tire specification as gospel. By comparison, my little Class B has load range E tires on, which was the factory specification for Ford Ambulance prepped vehicles at the time. SignatureJon JPinOH >>The 215x85x16 LR D are the correct size tire for your rig. I wouldn't >>argue with the 60psi inflation pressure. These tires will more than [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > my little Class B has load range E tires on, which was the factory > specification for Ford Ambulance prepped vehicles at the time. While LR E tires may be the correct tire for you rig and may even have been necessary to carry the GVWR given the tire size, the above tire is the correct tire for the OP rig. This is the size and LR specified, will more than carry the GVWR of that chassis. Going to LR E will not buy you anything. At same inflation pressure the LR E tires have same load capacity as the D's. If you inflate the LR E's to the higher pressure to obtain the increased load capacity then you are over inflating the tires and you still have to deal with the rims who's capacity is less than what the LR D tires can carry. The LR E tires will buy you a little harsher ride though. Mickey I see where Mickey <mickey@webster.com> contributed: >While LR E tires may be the correct tire for you rig and may even have >been necessary to carry the GVWR given the tire size, the above tire >is the correct tire for the OP rig. You MAY be right - but without knowing what HIS rig (not your similar one) weighs, you are shootng in the dark.* "D" rated tires may be entirely adequate as you say, but IMO it is bad form to make assumptions when giving advice on this issue. Far better that the OP educate himself so he KNOWS the right answer that to take advice from strangers who don't have all the facts. * He might be carryinmg an anvil collection. Stranger habits exist. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >I see where Mickey <mickey@webster.com> contributed: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >Will Sill >The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill Think he might be a "Clamper"? with the collection of anvils> George I see where wwemu@cwnet.com contributed: Will: >>* He might be carryinm an anvil collection. Stranger habits exist. Geo.: >Think he might be a "Clamper"? with the collection of anvils> HA! You got me on that. Wot is a "Clamper"? Bracelet? Non-skid shoe plates for ice country? Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >I see where wwemu@cwnet.com contributed: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >Will Sill >The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill The "Clampers" is a "fraternal" organization that likes to get together and drink beer among other things. There most interesting "hobby" (activity) seem to be launching anvils into the air. They use two anvils, one on top of the other. They fill the tool hole with gunpowder, seal the mating surfaces with playing cards and light the fuse. The anvil that goes the highest is the winner. At least that is what I observed at one of their outings. Just another way for the boys to amuse themselves. George I see where wwemu@cwnet.com contributed: >The "Clampers" is a "fraternal" organization that likes to get >together and drink beer among other things. There most interesting [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >is what I observed at one of their outings. Just another way for the >boys to amuse themselves. Good heavens! Just when you think you have seen or read about all the daffy nitwit things people do with their lives, and have even watched a few episodes of the loonies on "Mythbusters", along comes an activity that is even, ummmm, weirder than the rest! Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill > I see where Mickey <mickey@webster.com> contributed: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Will Sill > The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill Typ Will response, no one can offer accurate advise other than himself. Are you questioning my comments based on your first hand knowledge or just being your normal self? No one will argue with the need for every owner to weigh their rig, both empty and as ready for the road so they actually know how they're doing compared to what the rig is spec'd at. Unless you are you advising the OP exceed the GVWR of the rig my comments are right on. For 89 the GVWR for an E350 was 11,000. The tire size and LR I gave is what is spec'd by Ford and will more than support that weight. Here are figures from the mfgr. GVWR = 11,000# Front = 4200# Rear - 7672# Factory rims are stamped with 2100# max load. Tire spec @ 65psi 2335 single and 2150 Dual. That's 4670 front and 8600 rear. Seems like my comments fit your original statement of: a) Fits the wheels b) Is rated to carry AT LEAST that much load My rig all but empty tips the scales at 10,100. Nothing in the rig other than myself and all fluids at half capacity. Not much room for variables in my comments if one is to keep within spec's. Mickey I see where Mickey <mickey@webster.com> bitched: >Typ Will response, no one can offer accurate advise other than >himself. Are you questioning my comments based on your first hand >knowledge or just being your normal self? Did you go to a special school to learn how to be a jerk, or did it come naturally? I questioned your daffy advice because you do NOT know, despite your assumptions, what the OP's rig actually weighs. Not only that, it is FAR better for him to go to the scale and the inflation charts than to take the word of some stranger who thinks he has a similar rig. If he takes your advice, he is shooting in the dark. If he takes mine, he's going to not only be better educated about tire selection but will know WHY the right pressure works best. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >the exisiting tires are lt215 85r16 inflate to 60 lbs. they are not the >original tires. i cant think of where to have my rig weighed. perhaps >there is a little metal info tag with the weight stamped on it on the >inside of the door frame. maybe i should choose the highest load rated >tires. i'll have to check it out >cj Nearly all truck stops have scales. Are there any near you? The tag will give you the gross vehicle weight rating, gvwr, but you may or may not be near it, or you may even be way over it. It's best to weight the rig loaded out like you intend to use it then use the charts found at Michelin's web site, or have a look at this; PSI 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 Lbs per S 1495 1640 1785 1940 2050 2180 2335 Position D 2720 2980 3250 3530 3730 3970 4300 Those weights are for each tire. SignatureFrank Tabor Buy load range "E". inflate to 60 lbs, your good to go! If you see a motorhome with a blowout, it's probably because the tire was OLD. Even though there is plenty of tread, you have to get new tires after 6-8 years of sitting around. I'm sure it's wonderful getting all your wheels weighted, but, onditions change: -Holding tanks full or empty -Gas tank full -Number of people or junk inside -Temperature Bill L >greetings, i own a 1989 ford class c (28 foot) that needs new front >tires. every tire store i call asks what kind of load range i want. i [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >would be appreciated >thanks cj I see where Bill Lederer <bill.lederer@verizon.net> contributed: >Buy load range "E". inflate to 60 lbs, your good to go! I think when the OP compares this daffy "information" with suggestions to WEIGH and then determine what tire to buy and how much air to use, he'll decide the above advice belongs in the bit bucket. If not, he should. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill when we bought our rv the tires were dry rotted. our first little trip out with some friends resulted in one of the rear tires blowing out, the tread still kind of attached slapping around, and WHAM, the tread blows apart our poop tank! poop water everywhere (insurance paid for that). one of the few times i let my wife drive our rig we are doing 70 down the interstate, I'm in the kitchen farting around and the left front tire blows out.!!talk about a scary ride. my wife did and outstanding job of not overcorrecting and came to a bumpy but safe stop. i learned the hard way regarding old tires! cj p.s. everyone thanks for the input > Buy load range "E". inflate to 60 lbs, your good to go! > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >>would be appreciated >>thanks cj Yep, dry rot will do it every time. As I mentioned, there are so many variables, you would need to adjust your tire pressure every hour if some people had their way. Just make sure your tires are not grossly out of proper poundage. Bill L >when we bought our rv the tires were dry rotted. our first little trip >out with some friends resulted in one of the rear tires blowing out, the [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >>>would be appreciated >>>thanks cj I see where Bill Lederer <bill.lederer@verizon.net> contributed: >As I mentioned, there are so many >variables, you would need to adjust your tire pressure every hour if >some people had their way. You'd do that if you're a moron. But if you're of normal intelligence you'll weigh the rig ready for travel, and adjust per the chart for actual load. No point in obsessing over 5 lbs. but only a fool blindly takes advice to "buy load range E and inflate to 60 psi". Will Sill In the US, anyone can express a point of view. Sadly, there is no requirement that views be informed, honest, useful or even logical. If there was, most Democrats would be silenced. When you buy the new tires, just go on the recommendation of the dealer. They know a lot more about tires than the so called "experts" around here. Bill L >I see where Bill Lederer <bill.lederer@verizon.net> contributed: >>As I mentioned, there are so many [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >informed, honest, useful or even logical. If >there was, most Democrats would be silenced. > When you buy the new tires, just go on the recommendation of the > dealer. They know a lot more about tires than the so called "experts" > around here. > > Bill L <snip> That's BS, Bill, and you know it. Many so-called "dealers know a hell of a lot LESS than the experts around here. Best recommendation is to get a tire guide from the manufacturer (or ?) and follow the inflation tables, etc. SignatureRam KE7BRE www.rvsafety.com (Remove first 2 dots to reply) I see where "R & A" <ram.and.ali@cox.net> contributed: "Bill Lederer" <bill.lederer@verizon.net> mistakenly wrote: >> When you buy the new tires, just go on the recommendation of the >> dealer. They know a lot more about tires than the so called "experts" >> around here. Ram: > That's BS, Bill, and you know it. Many so-called "dealers know a hell >of a lot LESS than the experts around here. Best recommendation is to get a >tire guide from the manufacturer (or ?) and follow the inflation tables, >etc. Tire dealers know about _selling_ tires, and even know how to mount them. Many don't even know what an inflation chart is. And who can blame them? Unless you know what load is on a tire, you can't possibly know the best pressure. When was the last time you saw a vehicle scale at a tire store? Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >> When you buy the new tires, just go on the recommendation of the >> dealer. They know a lot more about tires than the so called "experts" [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > a tire guide from the manufacturer (or ?) and follow the inflation tables, > etc. I agree. When I have tried to talk to tire dealers concerning truck tires, they gave me information/recommendations for passenger car tires, which are not the same. SignatureJon JPinOH >>> When you buy the new tires, just go on the recommendation of the >>> dealer. They know a lot more about tires than the so called "experts" [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >they gave me information/recommendations for passenger car tires, which are >not the same. We had seminars by two different factory tire reps (Michelin & Bridgestone). The one thing that stood out was the statement by each that their most difficult problem was getting tire dealers to read - that most dealers had NO idea what an inflation chart was or how to use it. The average dealer either goes by the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation or by the maximum inflation figures that are on the tire. Neither are very good. Learn how to care for YOUR vehicle and don't depend on others whose primary aim is to separate you from your money. George Which is why I call them stealerships - <wink> Incidentally my tire videos came from Michelin today. Learn how to care for YOUR vehicle and > don't depend on others whose primary aim is to separate you from your > money. BL> Buy load range "E". inflate to 60 lbs, your good to go! And possibly spend more than you need to on set of tires, if load range D is all you need. JPinOH Jon Porter <jporterDropthis@netwalk.com> Sun, 17 Jul 2005 19:03:15 -0400 True, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Bill L > BL> Buy load range "E". inflate to 60 lbs, your good to go! > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >=== Posted with Qusnetsoft NewsReader 2.2.0.8 Well, Gentlemen, let us not forget the lawyers circling the wagons. If one installs tires which are rated differently than what the original manufacturer specified, even if that rating is superior to the factory specified rating, one may be asking for problems. It would not hurt ones case (should one have the misfortune to have one) to have a written recommendation from the tire manufacturer stating which of their tires meets ones specific needs. I.e., that one bought the tire they recommended for that specific use and inflated it to their specifications. Of course tire manufacturers as well as vehicle manufacturers sometimes make little errors. Hint: Ford Explorer/Firestone tires. But they do issue "corrections" to their recommendations. Absent some such correction, the originally specified tire is probably the safest bet. Other suggestions, such as weighing the vehicle, is definitely a good idea. Especially for personal safety. It is quite easy to overload some rv's and it is helpful to know just how close one is getting to their max GVRW. I read somewhere a while back that highway authorities estimate that quite a large percentage of recreational vehicles going down the road are overloaded and have underinflated tires. Adjusting air pressure to correspond to actual weight carried is definitely a good idea for maximum performance in tire adhesion. Race car teams have this down to a science. I see where "Pumper Hinkle" <pumperhinkle@earthlink.net> contributed: >Well, Gentlemen, let us not forget the lawyers circling the wagons. > >If one installs tires which are rated differently than what the original >manufacturer specified, even if that rating is superior to the factory >specified rating, one may be asking for problems. With lawyers, I suppose anything is possible. But IMO being sued by some idiot for using superior tires is less likely than being struck by a Martian meteorite - with or without martian bacterium. > Adjusting air pressure to correspond to >actual weight carried is definitely a good idea for maximum performance in >tire adhesion. Not just adhesion (traction, affecting handling and braking) but tire life and ride. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill I cannot imagine a situation where I would be sued solely for using a superior tire although such a situation might exist. I can more easily imagine a situation where I would be required to testify as to why I chose a tire other than what (insert name of vehicle manufacturer here) recommended. This after I blew a tire and caused a wreck. (or some other such catastrophy) Even though the likelyhood of such a situation is remote, one must always have some consideration for what the weasels, rather: tort lawyers, might try to stick you with. Unfortunately, this is where having written recommendations/approvals from manufacturers could be useful. And no, the sky isn't falling. ;-) |
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