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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / July 2005Trans. temp gauge dip stick sensor?? help anyone
Looking to install a transmission temp gauge on my 2004 GMC auto-trans.Looking for the best/easy way to install the sensor.Read about a sensor that attaches to the tip of the dip stick...anyone know anything about these and where to buy them?? Not sure if my 2004 has a easy to get at threaded plug but this would be a good option also.Would rather not have to drill and tap if I dont have to.Would like to install this gauge myself..any help would be great. :) thanks keith Whately,mass USA Zinger 32QB > Looking to install a transmission temp gauge on my 2004 GMC > auto-trans.Looking for the best/easy way to install the sensor.Read [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Zinger 32QB >== I would also be interested. I thought of a sender in the output from the transmission to the cooler. (I really am not up on this, but I'm not entirely stupid, LOL)) Geoff. > Looking to install a transmission temp gauge on my 2004 GMC > auto-trans.Looking for the best/easy way to install the sensor.Read > about a sensor that attaches to the tip of the dip stick. Such a device is certainly NEW enough or "fringe" enough that Trailer Life and Motorhome magazines haven't done a feature on it. It sounds like a "kludge" to me. Everything I've ever read recommends to install the sensor/sender in the transmission PAN. Good luck! :) JR Wouldn't putting the sensor inline on the outflow to the cooler accomplish the same thing? > Everything I've ever read recommends to install the sensor/sender in the > transmission PAN. >> Everything I've ever read recommends to install the >> sensor/sender in the transmission PAN. > Wouldn't putting the sensor inline on the outflow > to the cooler accomplish the same thing? Assuming that TL & MH are expert in this very field, my guess is NO since they have consistently recommended the pan and no other as the ideal location. However, it's entirely likely that the difference in accuracy, if any, would be minor, if not negligible. :) JR You can get a remote temp sensor for the trans. output line to the cooler , which uses a remote readout that you keep in the cab. They are battery operated and it puts out a temp signal via radio waves. Available in walmart, menards for about $17. Jim Redelfs wrote: Everything I've ever read recommends to install the sensor/sender in the transmission PAN. _________________________________________ Wouldn't putting the sensor inline on the outflow to the cooler accomplish the same thing? __________________________________________ Both methods should provide the same information. One consideration might be that if the sensor ever leaked, fluid could drip out of the pan installation whereas it would be pumped out of a pressurized outflow line installation. Wendy & John. __________________________________________ Very in accurate in that location. Especially in the case of a mopar trans.  SignatureSteve Barker > Wouldn't putting the sensor inline on the outflow to the cooler accomplish > the same thing? > >> Everything I've ever read recommends to install the sensor/sender in the >> transmission PAN. So installation requires drilling the pan? > Very in accurate in that location. Especially in the case of a mopar > trans. > So installation requires drilling the pan? Yes, assuming the OP was referring to the suggested alternate location inline on the outflow to the cooler. I have a 2002 Silverado with the Allison 5-speed automatic transmission. Do you know WHERE the sender is in THIS particular unit? :) JR There's a pressure tap in the E4OD that is perfect for the sensor. I'm not familiar with other transmissions. But drilling the pan would be a good place. Also, would make for a good drain plug. SignatureSteve Barker > So installation requires drilling the pan? > >> Very in accurate in that location. Especially in the case of a mopar >> trans. >Wouldn't putting the sensor inline on the outflow to the cooler accomplish >the same thing? I put 2 tranny gauges on our last truck - one in the outflow and the other in the pan. The outflow gauge was WAY more "responsive" or "sensitive". IOW, when the torque convertor unlocked and the temp started to climb the outflow gauge would spike immediately. The pan gauge would then start to slowly climb. If you understand what is happening, either gauge alone would be sufficient but it was kind of neat to have both readings available. R.J.(Bob) Evans (return address needs alteration to work) My '77 Southwind has this as a STOCK item. So, it's not new. Bax >> Looking to install a transmission temp gauge on my 2004 GMC >> auto-trans.Looking for the best/easy way to install the sensor.Read [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > :) >JR -------------------------------------------------------------- Believe there's life out there? Help Seti! Join my team today! http://tinyurl.com/9nhp6 -------------------------------------------------------------- Electrical, Plumbing & more. Edmonton's Handyman! 406-6911 -------------------------------------------------------------- My YahooGroups: -Camping http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Tent_Camping -Freecycle http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Freecycle-Edmonton -Survivalism and Preparedness. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/misc_survivalism_moderated -------------------------------------------------------------- My E-Bay Auctions: http://members.ebay.ca/aboutme/bax2005/ -------------------------------------------------------------- What I have done is to cut the tranny line back from the cooler and splice in a splitter block and fit the lines back to it after reflareing the ends and install into the t a engine oil temp guage ( same temp range) works great. pete >Looking to install a transmission temp gauge on my 2004 GMC >auto-trans.Looking for the best/easy way to install the sensor.Read [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Zinger 32QB remove user from address if displayed to respond, nitech at vaxxine.com Pete brings up a good point. The temp of the fluid headed for the cooler is useless information. You need to know the temp of the sump (fluid in the pan). SignatureSteve Barker > What I have done is to cut the tranny line back from the cooler and > splice in a splitter block and fit the lines back to it after [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > remove user from address if displayed > to respond, nitech at vaxxine.com I see where "Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> contributed: >The temp of the fluid headed for the cooler is >useless information. You need to know the temp of the sump (fluid in the >pan). Disagree. People who have an interest in knowing how much heat is being generated will want to see fluid temp coming OUT -- it is a far quicker indicator of a condition creating heat. Looking at temp in the return line or the pan only tells you how well the cooler(s) worked. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill The trans is actually using the fluid in the pan. The fluid headed for the cooler is directly from the converter. The converter is the major source of the heat. There is no reason to know the temp of the fluid headed for the cooler. You can't control it. NOW knowing the temp of the fluid in the pan is useful information. If it gets too hot, then you can take measures (slowing down, downshifting, getting a bigger cooler) to cool it off. So disagree all you want, you are wrong. SignatureSteve Barker > Disagree. > > People who have an interest in knowing how much heat is being > generated will want to see fluid temp coming OUT -- it is a far > quicker indicator of a condition creating heat. There's little you can do about the creation of heat, you can only take measures to cool it back down. > Looking at temp in the return line or the pan only tells you how well > the cooler(s) worked. And that is what we are really concerned with. > Will Sill > The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill I see where "Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> contributed: >The trans is actually using the fluid in the pan. The fluid headed for the >cooler is directly from the converter. The converter is the major source of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >(slowing down, downshifting, getting a bigger cooler) to cool it off. So >disagree all you want, you are wrong. I see. If I do not agree with you, I'm wrong. Is that it? Has it ever occurred to you that not everyone is willing to wait until the pan or return temps spike upward to consider taking action? Did you not realize that you absolutely CAN slow down, shift down, or even shut down for a time, based on IMMEDIATE indication that you are putting a lot of heat into the system? Unlike you, I'm not claiming I have the only right answer. I was very explicit in suggesting what you conveniently snipped: :People who have an interest in knowing how much heat is being :generated will want to see fluid temp coming OUT -- it is a far :quicker indicator of a condition creating heat. People who don't have an interest in these things usually don't bother with aftermarket gauges anyway! May I suggest a course in remedial reasing? Will Sill In the US, anyone can express a point of view. Sadly, there is no requirement that views be informed, honest, useful or even logical. If there was, most Democrats would be silenced. Cutting the chocolate out of the voluminous dogshit: > :People who have an interest in knowing how much heat is being generated > :will want to see fluid temp coming OUT -- it is a far quicker indicator > :of a condition creating heat. I agree with this- the *reason* being (something Will left out) that the fluid doesn't care what the average temperature is, if the fluid at any point gets above the breakdown point, it will break down. Even if it is returned to a reservoir to mix with cooler fluid, it will still be bad. For this reason, you do need to know the maximum temperature the fluid (even a small bit of it) gets. Of course, this is less of a worry if you use a synthetic transmission fluid. SignatureChris Bryant http://bryantrv.com >I see where "Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> > contributed: [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > informed, honest, useful or even logical. If > there was, most Democrats would be silenced. == Gotta agree with you Linus. Makes sense to check at the point at which the oil is hottest. Geoff. Oops! Sorry Will. Got the names confused. Geoff. > The trans is actually using the fluid in the pan. The fluid headed for > the cooler is directly from the converter. The converter is the major [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > take measures (slowing down, downshifting, getting a bigger cooler) to > cool it off. So disagree all you want, you are wrong. But.... Who cares what the cooled oil that has already been through the cooler? I want to know what the temperature of the oil is when it can be the hottest. If I'm checking the temperature of oil that has already been cooled down (oil that is in the fluid pan) how do I know if at any time any of that oil has been over heated, and efficency of the oil has lowerd? You *won't* know until it's too late IMO. > The trans is actually using the fluid in the pan. The fluid headed for the > cooler is directly from the converter. The converter is the major source of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > (slowing down, downshifting, getting a bigger cooler) to cool it off. So > disagree all you want, you are wrong. I disagree. The temperature of the fluid itself is as important as the temperature of the transmission. The fluid gets damaged by heat as sure as the transmission parts do. If the temperature coming out of the converter is too high, that is bad, even if the temperature in the sump is lower. something for you guys seem to think about is that the out to the cooler line is hot and the back from the cooler is the temp that has been cooled and if all else is equal wont that be the most acurate temp. It would be the sustained tranny temp. I have had this in my muscle car and they do sell kits to do this but my way(in another post) is cheap, doesnt leak and if you flare the lines and not just splice with rubber hose provide the ground required for the sensor. just my 2 cents worth. Pete remove user from address if displayed to respond, nitech at vaxxine.com >something for you guys seem to think about is that the out to the >cooler line is hot and the back from the cooler is the temp that has [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >remove user from address if displayed >to respond, nitech at vaxxine.com Again Google is your friend. About a year ago someone posted here about using a battery operated oven thermometer, from Sears. He posted instructions and test results. I installed this unit and it seems to work fine. It is attached to the output line of the transmission and does not require cutting the line. The only problem is that you must change batteries occasionally. I am on the original battery and it still reads correctly. I did not have any way to test the accuracy of this installation but all I need is a relative temp to know if it is heating up more than normal. It also has an alarm you can set to a specific temp to alert you of an impending problem. Sawgrass Gone fishin' in the Everglades
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