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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2005

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HELP! Onan Emerald will not start

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eazyyy - 11 Aug 2005 21:57 GMT
Hello; Emerald 1 will crank, but does not even try to start.

Model # BGEFR26100F S/N E880122723

I have:

Topped off the oil
Filled the gas tank
Replaced the circut board
Replaced the two spark plugs (Autolite 106)
Pulled and grounded plug, no spark
Getting gas as I can smell it when it cranks.
Squeze bulb is full of gas
I have cranked it upto 30 seconds.

The salesman said that it ran, but I have never seen it run.

Questions:
It has a circut board, could it also have points, rotor, condensor?

There is a condensor that goes from one side of the coil to the frame,
what's that?

Carb. screws are set at 1 1/2 turns.

What is the screw setting on the bottom of the Altitute adjustment cup
at the carb?

Does the camper have to be exactly level for it to start?

Any thing else I should know would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

Emory
jayne@nospam.com - 11 Aug 2005 23:44 GMT
>Hello; Emerald 1 will crank, but does not even try to start.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>Squeze bulb is full of gas
>I have cranked it upto 30 seconds.

I am no mechanic, but if it's not getting spark that's the problem. Not
that it isn't level, or where the carb adjustment is set. I'd probably
make sure the spark plug wires/distributor cap were good, by testing the
wire with some sort of meter.

Jayne
Opus- - 12 Aug 2005 01:38 GMT
>Hello; Emerald 1 will crank, but does not even try to start.
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>Replaced the two spark plugs (Autolite 106)
>Pulled and grounded plug, no spark

That would be your problem. Check points, condenser and coil. Could
also be a wire grounding out somewhere.

>Getting gas as I can smell it when it cranks.
>Squeze bulb is full of gas
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>Questions:
>It has a circut board, could it also have points, rotor, condensor?

Points and condenser..no rotor.

>There is a condensor that goes from one side of the coil to the frame,
>what's that?

The condenser.

>Carb. screws are set at 1 1/2 turns.

Correct initial setting.

>What is the screw setting on the bottom of the Altitute adjustment cup
>at the carb?

Not familiar with that one. I have worked on many Onan engines but
mostly on tractors.

>Does the camper have to be exactly level for it to start?

Nope. No more than any other engine.

>Any thing else I should know would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thank you very much.
>
>Emory

Emory's Emerald? ;-)

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Opus62@gmail.com
(Jim, single dad to Lesleigh [Autistic] 04/20/94)

"What, Me Worry?" A. E. Newman

Please note: All unsolicited e-mail sent to me may, at
my discretion, be posted in this newsgroup verbatim.

cj - 12 Aug 2005 03:36 GMT
not sure if this will help but my onan microlight would not start so it
took it in to a repair shop and the guy said that my microlight would
not run if there was no electrcity was being produced. my rotor and
stator were shorted. luckily i took it in on the last day of my
warranty, otherwise it would have cost me around $1800.
good luck, cj

> Hello; Emerald 1 will crank, but does not even try to start.
>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Emory
Alan Robinson - 12 Aug 2005 06:05 GMT
> Hello; Emerald 1 will crank, but does not even try to start.
>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Emory

Already answered on rec.outdoors.rv-travel, but since you did include the
model/spec in this post: the spec F is a points/condenser system.
   If it's not getting spark, it's not gonna run - everything else is
beside the point (except, possibly, WHY did you replace the circuit board?).
   A quick review of how the ignition system works:

Control board sends 12v to + side of coil primary winding. - side is
connected to points. As engine turns, points close and current flows thru
coil primary and points to ground. This establishes a magnetic field in the
coil. As the engine continues to turn, it reaches the 'firing' point, the
points open, and current flow thru the coil primary stops. The magnetic
field in the coil collapses, inducing a much higher voltage in the coil
secondary. This voltage goes out the spark plug wires to the spark plugs,
and jumps the gap to ground at the spark plugs. Things to check (in order)
- if you don't have 12v at coil primary, you get no spark.
- if the points don't close, or don't make good contact, or the wire from
coil to points is disconnected or broken, you get no spark.
- if the points don't open, or the condenser is shorted, or the wire from
coil to points is shorted to ground, you get no spark.
If everything to this point checks out ok, then:
- if the coil is bad, you get no spark.

Alan
ninebal310@aol.com - 12 Aug 2005 11:35 GMT
Also, when checking the points, make sure the wire is NOT grounded. I
have seen many people put the wire that goes to the points on the wrong
side of the insulating (plastic) washers. And, the points MUST be set
correctly.

Hank
eazyyy - 12 Aug 2005 14:52 GMT
Hello Alan; Thank you very much for your time and efforts.

One Question: Do I have to pull this 217 lb. paperweight to get to the
coil and points?

I owned a service station for 10 years and did more tune ups than I
care to
remember. I know my way around an engine, but not this piece of
confusion. I took it back to the dealer, they do not service Onan and
did not know anything, Took it to a RV center, they charged me $400 for

a circut board, no improvement and they had no idea what was wrong. I
also ordered the manual from PPL, but it will take 7 to 10 days for it
to get here. I did buy it last Thursday with the idea of going to
Virginia last Monday. But as you can see, I have spent my week playing
with this dumb generator, I'm not going anywhere without A/C. Got quite

an education though. I do have a 5k Generac stand alone, but without a
muffler, I know it will be too loud for any neighbors. I did set the
plugs to .025 before installing.

Again, Thank you for the information. It will be very helpful.

Emory
Alan Robinson - 13 Aug 2005 04:27 GMT
> Hello Alan; Thank you very much for your time and efforts.
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Emory

In theory - and in MOST installations - it should be possible to adjust or
change the points/condenser and/or check voltages at the coil without
dropping the genset. How easy it will be depends on the installation -
please don't blame Onan for something done by the RV manufacturer or dealer
who installed the genset.
   If you go to
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=Onan-RV-Engine the two
pictures on the right of the page should be VERY similar to the engine
portion of your genset. On the bottom picture, the circular part closest to
you (silver on the inside) is the adapter from the engine to the genset
housing. Just above it, you'll see the stamped metal cover over the points
and condenser that I mentioned. On the right you'll see the coil, on the
left the carburetor and air cleaner assembly.
   Since you're used to doing tuneups on regular cars, the only things that
might be confusing on how the -engine- works would be (1) the ignition. It
doesn't have a distributor - instead, the coil has two high voltage
terminals, and sends spark to both cylinders at the same time. Since it's a
horizontally opposed engine, that means that one cylinder is firing just
before top dead center on the compression stroke and the other cylinder is
sparking just before top dead center on the exhaust stroke - no mixture to
fire, but doesn't hurt anything. The next revolution, the cylinder that was
on the compression stroke is now on the exhaust stroke, and the cylinder
that was on the exhaust stroke is now on the compression stroke. Again, one
spark is wasted, but doesn't hurt anything. The points under the cover are
actuated by a pushrod which runs down into the engine and rests on a lobe on
the camshaft.
(2) the throttle. To produce 60HZ, the engine has to run at 1800 rpm - so
the throttle is opened and closed by a governor to maintain as close as
possible to the desired speed. You can see the external parts in the
pictures above - a linkage arm with an adjustable spring that's holding the
throttle wide open. The part you can't see inside the engine is a
centrifugal mechanism that exerts more pressure to close the throttle the
faster the engine is running - so the speed the engine runs is a balance
between the spring tension pulling the throttle open and the centrifugal
pushing the throttle closed - you increase or decrease speed by changing the
spring tension. If the load on the genset changes, the governor will open or
close the throttle as needed to try to maintain 1800 rpm. This leads to two
important things - when the genset is running the governor should be the
only thing setting the speed - the idle stop screw should NOT touch - and
the only way to get the genset to wide open throttle so you can properly set
the main jet is with a load bank.
   Hope this is enough to get you by until the manual gets there. If not,
go to the dealer locater at www.funroads.com and look for a dealer near you.
I'd be willing to bet that the rv center that changed the board isn't
listed..

Alan
 
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