I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
down.
Joe (summer time user)
Stan Birch - 18 Aug 2005 15:46 GMT
>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
>a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
>down.
What kind of heater? An electrical heater; or the propane furnace?
Assuming that you are referring to the furnace, without further
detail, I would suspect that the fuse-rating for the circuit might be
only marginal. These things can easily draw 10 amps; so bumping the
fuse rating from say 10 amps to 15 amps may be required.
Joe G - 18 Aug 2005 21:55 GMT
>>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> only marginal. These things can easily draw 10 amps; so bumping the
> fuse rating from say 10 amps to 15 amps may be required.
Thank you pointing that out to me, it is a propane furnace...
Norman Webb - 19 Aug 2005 01:28 GMT
Just make sure your wiring is rated at the higher current. Fuses are meant
to melt BEFORE your wiring does.
>>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>only marginal. These things can easily draw 10 amps; so bumping the
>fuse rating from say 10 amps to 15 amps may be required.
Joe G - 19 Aug 2005 03:49 GMT
> Just make sure your wiring is rated at the higher current. Fuses are meant
> to melt BEFORE your wiring does.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>>only marginal. These things can easily draw 10 amps; so bumping the
>>fuse rating from say 10 amps to 15 amps may be required.
I'll sleep good knowing all this...
LOL
Bill - 19 Aug 2005 08:26 GMT
>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
>a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
>down.
>
>Joe (summer time user)
Joe,
Knowing a few details would be helpful. The make and model of the
furnace, and it's age. Also, when does the fuse blow? Does it go
right at turn on, when the flame ignites, after it's run for a while?
Each appliance, like the furnace, has a sequence of operation when
specific functions occur. Knowing the timing of the fuse blowing can
help to track down the problem. Also, what is the amperage of the
fuse that use are using in the furnace circuit?
Bill, RVIA Certified Technician
Joe G - 19 Aug 2005 15:54 GMT
> >I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I
> >keep
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Bill, RVIA Certified Technician
Bill
The furnace was made by Hydro Flame Corp. and is Excalibur 8500-II Series.
It resides in a Mallard " Sprinter" sold new in 1992 and thats all the
history I know about it, it can be presumed that the furnace has never been
replaced.
The first time it blew the fuse was over last Thanksgiving on our first cool
weather trip. The heater worked fine for 2 days, on the third day when I
turned it on the trailer was almost warmed up when it stopped working and
took out half of the 12 volt lights in the trailer. Replacing the 10Amp fuse
brought everything back up but the heater would take it all back down after
5 minutes of use.
Is this enough information Bill? If it isn't I will try to answer your
questions.
Thank you,
Joe
Chris Bryant - 19 Aug 2005 16:40 GMT
> The furnace was made by Hydro Flame Corp. and is Excalibur 8500-II Series.
> It resides in a Mallard " Sprinter" sold new in 1992 and thats all the
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> the 10Amp fuse brought everything back up but the heater would take it all
> back down after 5 minutes of use.
This is a tough one- simply because the fuse needs to be larger than 10
amps. 10 amps is barely adequate for the furnace, and is not nearly enough
for the furnace plus lights.
But... because it had a 10 amp fuse in it, it all depends on what size the
wire is, and whether someone simply replaced the 15 with a 10 at some
point.
Is the circuit labeled at 10 amps?

Signature
Chris Bryant
http://bryantrv.com
Joe G - 19 Aug 2005 16:42 GMT
>> The furnace was made by Hydro Flame Corp. and is Excalibur 8500-II
>> Series.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Is the circuit labeled at 10 amps?
yep, the circut is labeled 10 amps...
Joe
Chris Bryant - 19 Aug 2005 16:53 GMT
> yep, the circut is labeled 10 amps...
I would probably run a new circuit to the furnace- dedicated #14 or 12
wire, and fuse it at 15 amps. The furnace should have a circuit breaker in
it- probably a 10 amp one.
The furnace itself draws 7-9 amps, and each light draws 1 - 1.5 amps, so
it doesn't take much to blow a 10 amp fuse.
All of that said- these furnaces will start to draw more current when they
age.

Signature
Chris Bryant
http://bryantrv.com
Joe G - 19 Aug 2005 23:21 GMT
>> yep, the circut is labeled 10 amps...
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> All of that said- these furnaces will start to draw more current when they
> age.
The heater is labled that it draws 5.6 amps.
joe
Chris Bryant - 19 Aug 2005 23:36 GMT
> The heater is labled that it draws 5.6 amps.
So- 5.6 amps plus 3 lights overloads the 10 amp circuit. You can put a
meter on the furnace to measure the current draw- which is what I would do
first. If it is drawing much more than 7 amps, the motor is going.
I would still put it on a dedicated circuit, though.

Signature
Chris Bryant
http://bryantrv.com
Bill - 21 Aug 2005 08:38 GMT
>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
>a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
>down.
>
>Joe (summer time user)
Joe,
Sorry I did not get to respond sooner. I do agree that the circuit is
under rated. I would agree with Chris that a dedicated circuit would
be desireable.
As the furnace ages you can bet that motor will draw a higher current
as bearings wear and additional drag occurs from dirt in the blower
wheels. Add to that the lighting on the circuit and the 10 amp fuse
won't last long.
I would suggest though that you check the current draw of the furnace
in operation. If you can get your hands on a clamp on DC amp meter
it's an easy task. Unusually high draw may indicate a problem that
should be corrected before things get worse. The motor may be on its
way out or you may have a high resistance connection somewhere.
Bill, RVIA Certified Technician
unk - 22 Aug 2005 05:00 GMT
I would also suggest he look at the connections. It sounds like a
joint is becoming resistive as it heats.
unk
>Joe,
>Sorry I did not get to respond sooner. I do agree that the circuit is
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Bill, RVIA Certified Technician
Joe G - 21 Aug 2005 09:28 GMT
>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
>a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
>down.
>
> Joe (summer time user)
Thank you one and all for all this great information. First thing I'll do is
see in I can borrow a meter to check what that motor is drawing...
Joe
Joe G - 22 Aug 2005 03:37 GMT
>I have a winter time problem. When using the heater in my 5th wheel I keep
>blowing fuses. I am less than a shade tree mech but am wondering if this is
>a common problem and is there some easy way for me to trace the problem
>down.
>
> Joe (summer time user)
OH! BTW
I have a 7 amp circut breaker on the heater and that has NEVER tripped...
Joe