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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / September 2005Trailer brakes won't turn off
I ran into two new problems this weekend, don't know if they are related, but they're both electrical. I have a Suburban and a newish-to-us Fireball (hah!) trailer. As we started to leave, I noticed that the battery in the trailer was dead. I carried on, as I knew we had AC where we were going. When we hooked up to come back, the trailer brakes were on. I tried all kinds of things, but they wouldn't let go unless I unplugged the umbilical. I haven't started looking for the problem yet--any ideas where to start? > When we hooked up to come back, the trailer brakes were on. I tried > all > kinds of things, but they wouldn't let go unless I unplugged the > umbilical. > I haven't started looking for the problem yet--any ideas where to > start? 2 places to look 1st. A short in either the tow vehicle or trailer plug. My guess is the tow vehicle plug unless the plug on the trailer has recently been changed. 2nd. The next place to check is the brake controller. Make sure it's in the off position when the tow vehicle brakes are off. > I ran into two new problems this weekend, don't know if they are related, > but they're both electrical. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > kinds of things, but they wouldn't let go unless I unplugged the umbilical. > I haven't started looking for the problem yet--any ideas where to start? If your brakes are electric, there are 2 ways for power to activate them. One way is from a separate emergency battery, usually located on the tongue of the trailer. Attached to this battery is a switch. The switch has a metal wire with a pin. If this pin is pulled out, your brakes will activate. I doubt that this is your problem, but it is something to be aware of. Second way is from your brake light power. When you apply your brakes on the tow vehicle, it sends power to the controller. Then the controller then sends the power on to the trailer at the adjusted rate. Knowing this should help diagnose the problem. Your controller will not operate unless there is power going to it. So, you have power getting to your controller somehow. If you have the ability to use a Volt/Ohm meter, you can check to see if you have power constantly at the plug on the tow vehicle. If you do, start at the tow vehicle to find the power source. It could be a stuck brake light switch. Are your brake lights on constantly? Without knowing exactly how your vehicle/trailer is wired, it is very difficult to diagnose correctly over the internet. Hank If you have the ability to use a Volt/Ohm > meter, you can check to see if you have power constantly at the plug on > the tow vehicle. If you do, start at the tow vehicle to find the power [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Without knowing exactly how your vehicle/trailer is wired, it is very > difficult to diagnose correctly over the internet. We picked up a trailer for delivery and found that they had reversed the wire for the brakes and the 12v that charges the battery on the trailer, on the trailer side of the plug.. This caused the brakes to be hard on all of the time. When we tried to move it, we were dragging it across the grass. Take a look at this page for the diagrams for trailer wiring. http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp Leanne > We picked up a trailer for delivery and found that they had > reversed the wire for the brakes and the 12v that charges the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Leanne I don't see how it's a mis-fired application, because he towed the trailer fine, and then had the problem. That's the reason I said shorted wire in plug or brake controller on all the time for some reason. Tom J > > We picked up a trailer for delivery and found that they had > > reversed the wire for the brakes and the 12v that charges the [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Tom J I will put my bet on the break-away switch. He somehow pulled the break-away switch when he unhooked after the first pull. Therefore when he gets back the trailer battery is dead and when he hooks to the tow vehicle the trailer brakes come on. The brake controller would not result in a dead trailer battery. >> > We picked up a trailer for delivery and found that they had >> > reversed the wire for the brakes and the 12v that charges the [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > The brake controller would not result in a dead trailer battery. That may well be the problem since the trailer battery was dead and the brakes locked when connected to the tow. I didn't connect the dead trailer battery to the problem. Tom J > >> > We picked up a trailer for delivery and found that they had > >> > reversed the wire for the brakes and the 12v that charges the [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Tom J I speak from experience. I threw something in the back of my truck and then was backing my 5th wheel into a parking place when the brakes locked. I was sure I something had happened to the brake mechanism. I thought perhaps it was just one wheel locked at first. Then just by luck I happened to look in the bed of the truck and saw the break away cable laying there loose. It would have taken a long time for them to release as I have a pair of golf cart batteries. If hooked to the truck it would take a bunch longer as it has 2 batteries (a diesel engine). > I will put my bet on the break-away switch. He somehow pulled the > break-away switch when he unhooked after the first pull. Therefore when > he gets back the trailer battery is dead and when he hooks to the tow > vehicle the trailer brakes come on. That would be my bet, as well.  SignatureChris Bryant http://bryantrv.com I can't discount a breakaway switch problem, since I've put a strain on the cable and actuated it before (it's got a band of tape around the pin, so it doesn't pull out, just engages) but it doesn't feel like that. I'm more inclined to look at the controller under the dash. It's a Kelsey, for what that's worth. I'll throw a voltage meter on the connector and try to find out something. Thanks to everybody for the ideas. > I can't discount a breakaway switch problem, since I've put a strain on the > cable and actuated it before (it's got a band of tape around the pin, so it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > out something. > Thanks to everybody for the ideas. Sounds like your need a new switch. Disconnect the break away switch. That is the easiest thing to do right now. What happens if you try to charge your trailer battery or hook to shore power? Do the brakes come on? Disconnect and charge your trailer battery. Then if you are drawing a lot of current when you hook it back up the fault is in the trailer. > > I can't discount a breakaway switch problem, since I've put a strain on > the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Disconnect and charge your trailer battery. Then if you are drawing a lot > of current when you hook it back up the fault is in the trailer. I forgot to comment that your brake contol will not drain your trailer battery. Appears the fault is in the trailer and your switch is the most obvious. Especially if you have already had problems with it. |
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