Hello all.
I am new to this group and will probably ask a lot more questions than I can
answer. We are moving from a slide in pickup camper to a class C. My current
question is;
If I was going to repair a roof structure with dry rot, would I be able to
do it all from the insede without having to remove the outer skin? I can
also see that one of the sidewalls is wet and delaminating. (not near a
window) I will also need to repair this. This is a 1981 Midas 21'
Thanks for reading and even more for replying
> Hello all.
> I am new to this group and will probably ask a lot more questions than I can
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> window) I will also need to repair this. This is a 1981 Midas 21'
> Thanks for reading and even more for replying
I've repaired more then one rig, if I was buying a rig, I would not
buy one that I knew had rot. My time is worth more then that.
That being said, maybe. I have done it that way before. It's kinda the
reverse of how rigs are built (from the inside out). If you take the
outside off, plus the side, there is nothing to offer any support

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I've been there -- and I would avoid a situation with rot.
In my case, I found that the ceiling was sagging and still moist. So I
ripped it all out. Then I found that the beams were mostly rotted. So,
wiht the help of a knowledgable friend I removed these beams and we
put in new ones. Then came insulation of the roof with Roxul Plus, a
vapor barrier of plastic and new panelling for the ceiling. Some time
later, one of the roof seams started to leak, so i had an RV repair
center remove the roof entirely; he found that the stringers running
the length were rotted, so he changed them and then fitted a one-piece
aluminum roof. It turned out quite good. However, once there is rot
somewhere in the rig, there is bound to be more after you fix it. The
rig I had was a 1978 Shasta.
I pledged never to buy a wood-framed RV again. My wife is very
allergic to mould, and once there is rot, the spores are all over the
place.
I should add that after we had had a leak around the chimney of our
hose, the guys that repaired it ripped out all the rot and then
sprayed it with some kind of disinfectant to kill any spores. That
worked quite well.
Frankly, though, if you factor in the cost of labor, it's not worth it
for an older RV.
Howard
>Hello all.
>I am new to this group and will probably ask a lot more questions than I can
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>window) I will also need to repair this. This is a 1981 Midas 21'
>Thanks for reading and even more for replying
tat-2 - 30 Sep 2005 04:26 GMT
Is there a way to differentiate between wood framed and (?) aluminum/steel
framed? What are the other materials available. What manufacture do you
currently own?
Just curious, I though all RVs where wood framed. Excluding the Avion/Air
stream.
Forgive my ignorance.
Ed
> I've been there -- and I would avoid a situation with rot.
>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>>window) I will also need to repair this. This is a 1981 Midas 21'
>>Thanks for reading and even more for replying
Ralph E Lindberg - 02 Oct 2005 15:55 GMT
> Is there a way to differentiate between wood framed and (?) aluminum/steel
> framed? What are the other materials available. What manufacture do you
> currently own?
> Just curious, I though all RVs where wood framed. Excluding the Avion/Air
> stream.
> Forgive my ignorance.
Look at the manufactures info (FOR THAT YEAR), Komfort, Sunnybrook
(except maybe the new low end line), some Northwood (Nash, Arctic Fox,
Desert Fox) and others spring to mind

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RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
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