Has anyone had any experience with moving the axle from under the springs to
over the springs ?
That would raise the trailer 5"-6" depending on how thick the axle and
springs are but I have no idea how it would tow.

We had to get our last fiver "flipped" to help level it with the truck.
They didn't actually flip the axle like the term came from, but put a spacer
in there with the frame.

What happens with your current hitch for levelling if the trailer is higher?
Also will it lift the back end of the tow vehicle so that it will be nose
down if now level?

Biggest thing might be if it makes the TT top- heavy.  TTs are already
tricky for balance compared with fivers.  Even fivers are possibly tricky.
We asked the factory tech advice guy about changing from 15" tires to 16" to
gain an inch in height and he had a fit. "Don't do it!" he said.  (He
couldn't explain why putting a spacer in was ok but bigger tires was bad,
but he was adamant about the tire size)  Recommend asking the TT tech guy if
there would be any "issues" with raising the trailer.

Regards,
Barry

I see where Jim Redelfs <jim.redelfs@redelfs.com> contributed:

Jim, this is normally done by bolting the axle UNDER the springs
rather than over, and the increased height depends on the specific
suspension details.   The usual challenge making it hard for a
do-it-yerself type is that the perches (the thingdoolie on the axle
that the springs bolt to) are welded the axle and need to be relocated
- because you can't just rotate the axle 180 degrees (flip) for
several reasons.   Someone familiar with the issue can do the job in a
short time.

Will Sill
The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill

Listen to BF Lakes response, he seems to know. If you MUST lift it, see
if you can just put on longer shackles. They are easy to change and
cheap to buy. Then, if you don't like it because it sits too high,
sways, or any other problems, you can change it back quickly. Some
axles, you may not be able to change shackles, therefore you have to go
to plan B. :-)

Hank

There are several designs of running gear under trailers. Not
knowing what design you have it is impossible to give good advice.
There is the drop center axle design where the center of the axle is
not the same as the center of the shaft that the backer plate and
bearing races are on.
 Then you have the straight axle that has spring mounting plates
welded to them. These may be mounted above the spring leaf center
and some are mounted on the bottom.
To flip these type axles is not without sacrifice, it will invert
the brake mechanism not designed to operate in this position, as
well as expose the magnet wires to road hazards by being on the bottom.
Most 5er and TT axles are already already mounted on the bottom.
The only way to raise the level would to have new spring mount
brackets be welded on the frame, or have spacer blocks and longer
"U" bolts installed. I have seen some of both. The new spring mounts
weld direct to the existing ones as well as to the frame. This makes
for a much stronger spring hanger mount, but I think it would be
needed with the longer fulcrum effect.
The advice of not installing larger tires or wheels in because you
would decrease the distance between the tire and the bottom of the
rv, possibly causing the tire to rub on the fender well area and
cause a fire.
The answer to your leveling problem is to lower your hitch on the
tow vehicle. You would be more successful in re-routing your
plumbing than raising some designs of axles. Maybe consider putting
rollers on the rear skids, in case you do start to drag.
Another course that might be considered is to add a one inch block
between the axle, if mounted on the bottom of the spring group,
along with a one inch larger size tire. This would keep the tire the
same distance away from the floor of the RV as it was and raise you
two inches.
Did you know you can buy soft rubber pluming pipe sections???

I did it when I bought the trailer.  I never pulled it in any but
the raised configuration, and it pulls just fine.  I got a 5 inch
rise out of it, but more to the point, this gambit allowed the
trailer to ride LEVEL with the 4WD F250.  The truck is so high
that, as originally configured, the trailer would have ridden
nose high, and probably scraped the rear of the rails.

If you do this yourself, it is VERY IMPORTANT that you rebolt the
springs to the axle at EXACTLY the same point, assuming they got
it right at the factory.  Otherwise you will be throwing
"interstate alligators" up and down the road.

I wanted it to ride level.  Clearance was increased, but this was
incidental.  It is still POSSIBLE to scrape the trailer's bumper,
and indeed right now my a.s has an inverted smile from having
done so.  The bicycle rack hung down enough to catch and push the
bumper up in the middle.  :o(

It remains to be seen whether I will be the death of this
trailer, or it will be the death of me.  I have prepared my Will.

Bob

www.arcatapet.net/bobgiddings