 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / December 2005AC question
I plan to leave my TT on the Texas coast this spring, summer and fall. It has your standard Dometic roof mounted A/C with controls on the A/C itself. Is there any reasonable way to wire in a thermostat and start-stop relay for the fan motor? TIA LC Since nobody else has attempted to help you, I'll do the best I can in hopes of someone else stating I'm wrong. Depends on what you call "reasonable". The fan motor and the compressor motor are separate, so, they can be wired anyway you want it. You can bypass the original wiring entirely, or you can just put a thermstatic activated relay to the AC power. Hank > I plan to leave my TT on the Texas coast this spring, summer and fall. > It has your standard Dometic roof mounted A/C with controls on the A/C > itself. > Is there any reasonable way to wire in a thermostat and start-stop relay for > the fan motor? TIA LC I seen this earlier but could not tell what you wanted to do. If you want the fan only to come on and shut off on temperature demand. I suggest you look at an attic exhaust fan thermostat that you could wire in to the basic ac connection. Set the ac on "fan only", if it has that capability or disconnect the compressor wire.  SignatureBILL P. > I plan to leave my TT on the Texas coast this spring, summer and fall. > It has your standard Dometic roof mounted A/C with controls on the A/C > itself. > Is there any reasonable way to wire in a thermostat and start-stop relay for > the fan motor? TIA LC I don't see any benefit to what you are proposing. If you are looking for a way to circulate air in the TT and have access to ac power, it would make more sense to install a FF in a roof vent. Hugh With a standard Dometic unit, you turn the unit to High/Med/Low on one dial and set the thermostat with the other dial; the fan stays on constantly and only the compressor kicks on or off depending on the temperature. I think what LC wants is for both the fan and compressor to turn on and off with temperature similar to a wheeless house system. It's not as easy as just killing the power to the whole unit for 2 reasons: 1. there has to be a delay between the compressor turning off and the fan turning off to prevent condensation since the coil remains cold for a few minutes after the compressor stops 2. there has to be an additional delay circuit or hysteresis control to keep the compressor from rapid cycling on and off if the temperature hovers right around the setpoint. Most wheeless house systems have this control built into the furnace control board and not the thermostat, so using a normal thermostat won't work. If you're handy with electrons, you could make your own setup utilizing a temperature switch, delay-on-make relay, and delay-on-break relay. Steve > > I plan to leave my TT on the Texas coast this spring, summer and fall. > > It has your standard Dometic roof mounted A/C with controls on the A/C [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > in a roof vent. > Hugh > With a standard Dometic unit, you turn the unit to High/Med/Low on one dial > and set the thermostat with the other dial; the fan stays on constantly and [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Steve snipped Okay. But explain why my rv ac works like this. Putting the fan switch in the auto mode, the fan and compressor come on then shut off at the same time. No lag between compressor shutdown and fan shut down. Hugh The manufacturer wanted to save $1.50 on the circuitry. You end up with an A/C unit that's prone to condensation and wastes a minute or two's worth of cold air. Steve > > With a standard Dometic unit, you turn the unit to High/Med/Low on one dial > > and set the thermostat with the other dial; the fan stays on constantly and [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > shutdown and fan shut down. > Hugh > The manufacturer wanted to save $1.50 on the circuitry. > You end up with an A/C unit that's prone to condensation and wastes a minute > or two's worth of cold air. > Steve snipped I replaced the thermostat with a Hunter programmable. The Dometic analog one worked the same. This is the typical roof mounted rv unit and the cold air starts right away. Since it's mounted on the roof and cold air "falls" down, I doubt I'm losing any <g>. The condensation doesn't wind up in the overhead ductwork, it winds up outside. This isn't like a typical home central air system with long runs to all parts of the house. It seams like a "no problem" to me. Hugh |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.