We garage our RV and we connect it to an outlet and the "smart" converter
keeps the auxiliary batteries charged. However the engine battery is
disconnected and thus receives no charge while plugged in.
I am thinking of adding a manual switch to energize the disconnect switch,
or perhaps a heavy duty switch to bypass the disconnct switch, so that the
engine battery is connected in parallel with the auxiliary batteries as they
are while the engine is running. In this manner the engine battery gets
charged by the converter. This switch could also be used to allow the
auxiliary batteries to start the engine.
Please comment on this idea and share any suggestions you may have about
doing this or against doing this, including switch suggestions: energizing
the disconnect relay or bypassing it... Al
ninebal310@aol.com - 03 Feb 2006 22:27 GMT
Al writes:
Please comment on this idea and share any suggestions you may have
about
doing this or against doing this, including switch suggestions:
energizing
the disconnect relay or bypassing it... Al
Hank writes:
The newer RV's have a switch that will allow you to use the coach
batteries to start the engine. It is nothing more than a puch button
relay.
I personally think if you hook the batteries together and the coach
can run off the engine battery and Vice-versa, you are asking for
problems if they both run down. If your batteries for the engine are
weak, they should be replaced. Also, they shouldn't run down in a month
of winter. You should start the engine every month anyway.
Just my opinion.
Hank
Bob Hatch - 03 Feb 2006 23:10 GMT
> We garage our RV and we connect it to an outlet and the "smart"
> converter keeps the auxiliary batteries charged. However the engine
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> about doing this or against doing this, including switch suggestions:
> energizing the disconnect relay or bypassing it... Al
Do it this way.
http://www.bobhatch.com/mhPages/floatCharger.htm

Signature
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed
by the things you did not do, than the ones you did. So
throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor
and catch tradewinds in your sail."
Mark Twain
http://www.bobhatch.com
http://www.tdsrvresort.com
John Andrews - 04 Feb 2006 03:05 GMT
>>We garage our RV and we connect it to an outlet and the "smart"
>>converter keeps the auxiliary batteries charged. However the engine
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> http://www.bobhatch.com/mhPages/floatCharger.htm
Thats the way I do it, but I use this one from Sears:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=AUTO&pid=0
2871220000&subcat=Battery+Chargers%2C+Boosters+%26+Cables
(Sorry for the long link...)
John Andrews, Knoxville, Tennessee
RedT in Glendale, AZ - 03 Feb 2006 23:22 GMT
> We garage our RV and we connect it to an outlet and the "smart" converter
> keeps the auxiliary batteries charged. However the engine battery is
> disconnected and thus receives no charge while plugged in.
Al, take a look at this charger: http://www.lslproducts.com/TLSPage.html
NoSpam_aljimenez@yahoo.com - 04 Feb 2006 00:45 GMT
Thanks for this link, and all the others. Is this just like a solar power
charge controller, or do you think they have done something very unique to
the RV world? Al
> Al, take a look at this charger: http://www.lslproducts.com/TLSPage.html
GBinNC - 03 Feb 2006 23:26 GMT
>I am thinking of adding a manual switch to energize the disconnect switch,
>or perhaps a heavy duty switch to bypass the disconnct switch, so that the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>doing this or against doing this, including switch suggestions: energizing
>the disconnect relay or bypassing it... Al
My Class B came equipped with such a relay, and when it died I bought an
exact replacement. It actually died because of a corroded ground
connection, but I didn't realize that until I removed it to replace it,
and the replacement has a better type of ground connection anyway. I got
it at WWGrainger (their part #6c017. It's a White-Rodgers,
continuous-duty 100-amp solenoid.
It's mounted on the fender wall next to the chassis battery. It connects
the chassis and house batteries when the ignition switch is on or in
accessory position. The alternator charges the house battery when
driving, and the converter/charger charges the chassis battery -- off
either the genset or shore power -- when I have the ignition switch in
the right position. This comes in handy when I want to use the stereo or
the cab lights when plugged into shore power (or on generator), so the
chassis battery doesn't run down.
It also allows the house battery to boost the chassis battery if needed
when starting the engine. In addition, if the house battery were too
weak to start the generator, I could switch the ignition on and start it
off the chassis battery. The system works extremely well, and both
batteries stay charged.
I like this relay so much I ended up buying two more. One serves as the
master shutoff for all the house 12v power, and the other as the
energizer to run the refrigerator on 12v when driving. It shuts off
power to the refrigerator automatically when I turn off the ignition,
such as for a refueling or rest stop. (The refrigerator is a manual
three-way.)
I installed all three myself, and they've been working great for several
years.
GB in NC