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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / March 2006AGM vs Wet Cell Batteries
I have a 10 year old Motorhome on a Ford Chassis, which currently has a "regular" Wet Cell battery. I am going to replace the battery. I expect to get about 5 more years out of the motorhome. Should I replace with a standard wet cell or with an AGM (Lifeline, Trojan, et. al.) battery? > I have a 10 year old Motorhome on a Ford Chassis, which currently has a > "regular" Wet Cell battery. I am going to replace the battery. I expect > to get about 5 more years out of the motorhome. Should I replace with a > standard wet cell or with an AGM (Lifeline, Trojan, et. al.) battery? What does the battery do? House or engine? Regards, Barry It's my engine battery. My motorhome is used in 2 to 4 week stretches about 3 or 4 times per year, so it's in "storage" most of the time. Except when I'm moving, I rarely use straight DC power. I almost always pluged into AC when when I park. Hope this is helpful in giving me some guidance. Thanks. > It's my engine battery. My motorhome is used in 2 to 4 week stretches > about 3 or 4 times per year, so it's in "storage" most of the time. > Except when I'm moving, I rarely use straight DC power. I almost always > pluged into AC when when I park. > > Hope this is helpful in giving me some guidance. Based on engine batteries being little difference in price for more cranking and warranty time, IMO a normal sort of "72" life expectancy battery would do it. I was told those sealed batteries with a "green eye" only show the state of one of the cells and of course you can't check the other cells. I would prefer the open wet cell type that you can check all the cells with a hydrometer, especially since you will have long periods of non-use and be wondering how the battery is doing between trips. IMO there is no point in getting a fancy sort of battery for the engine, unlike for the house task. Others here can advise better on how to maintain the battery between trips. I think you disconnect the vehicle cables and use a trickle charger, but obviously, whatever you have been doing for years ought to still work for another few years <G> Regards, Barry > I have a 10 year old Motorhome on a Ford Chassis, which currently has a > "regular" Wet Cell battery. I am going to replace the battery. I expect > to get about 5 more years out of the motorhome. Should I replace with a > standard wet cell or with an AGM (Lifeline, Trojan, et. al.) battery? You don't say if the battery is the original battery or not. If it is, I'd say get another one just like it! If it was replaced previously, I'd go with an AGM battery; the AGM house battery in my RV is going on 6 years with no problems so far. Marty I don't know if it's the original battery or not. Since the Motorhome is 10 years old and it is my engine battery, I very much doubt it's the original. >I don't know if it's the original battery or not. Since the Motorhome > is 10 years old and it is my engine battery, I very much doubt it's > the > original. Put another wet cell battery back like it has now. The way you are using it, you need to add a disconnect knife to the positive terminal if it doesn't already have one, because it'll drain the battery dead between uses if you don't. The rig really should be driven until everything gets up to normal operating temperature at least every 30 days if you expect it to be ready to use a couple of times a year. Tom J >I don't know if it's the original battery or not. Since the Motorhome > is 10 years old and it is my engine battery, I very much doubt it's the > original. For a cranking bettery I use the highest CCA wet cell battery that I can find. I just bought a 1000 amp cranking battery from Wal Mart for less than $60, and it should last at least 6 years. Add About $90 to that price for an AGM battery. For the deep cycle system, I'm using AGM batteries.  SignatureJon JPinOH >>I don't know if it's the original battery or not. Since the Motorhome >>is 10 years old and it is my engine battery, I very much doubt it's the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > For the deep cycle system, I'm using AGM batteries. That sounds like a horse of a battery, more CCA than my Ram but then I have two and it more than likely needs it. Bruce might do well by getting one for his rig, not a bad price. SignatureBILL P. 2004, 2500 SLT Quad Cab, Dodge Ram, SLT, SWB, 2WD, 5.9 HO Turbo Diesel, 48RE Auto Trans, Anti-Spin 3.73 Dif.Rhino Liner, Husky 16K. Voyager Controller 2005, 27RL Wildcat, DT/PC Wi-Fi. Trojan Batteries, 600watt Inverter Dual EU2000i Hondas Just Me and Dog > I have a 10 year old Motorhome on a Ford Chassis, which currently has a > "regular" Wet Cell battery. I am going to replace the battery. I expect > to get about 5 more years out of the motorhome. Should I replace with a > standard wet cell or with an AGM (Lifeline, Trojan, et. al.) battery? Well Bruce I was waiting for your answer to B F Lake as to what rig you have. I'll just answer considering this is the only battery. I would say that you would need the same type of battery so as to have the cranking power your engine needs. But if it is a house battery the AGM does not have to be vented giving you the added safety. I replaced my single gp 24 wet sell with two Trojan AGM 6 volt in series giving a much larger battery bank. SignatureBILL P. 2004, 2500 SLT Quad Cab, Dodge Ram, SLT, SWB, 2WD, 5.9 HO Turbo Diesel, 48RE Auto Trans, Anti-Spin 3.73 Dif.Rhino Liner, Husky 16K. Voyager Controller 2005, 27RL Wildcat, DT/PC Wi-Fi. Trojan Batteries, 600watt Inverter Dual EU2000i Hondas Just Me and Dog > I have a 10 year old Motorhome on a Ford Chassis, which currently has a > "regular" Wet Cell battery. I am going to replace the battery. I expect > to get about 5 more years out of the motorhome. Should I replace with a > standard wet cell or with an AGM (Lifeline, Trojan, et. al.) battery? I would go with a maintenance free but not AGM. This is due to the high cost of the AGM with respect to the benefits in a vehicle category battery. My time at this stage of my life is more valuable so I do not want to spend time checking water in a battery when they make them that I don't have to, thus the reason for a maintenance free type. Besides I am apt to forget! ;-) SignatureBILL P. 2004, 2500 SLT Quad Cab, Dodge Ram, SLT, SWB, 2WD, 5.9 HO Turbo Diesel, 48RE Auto Trans, Anti-Spin 3.73 Dif.Rhino Liner, Husky 16K. Voyager Controller 2005, 27RL Wildcat, DT/PC Wi-Fi. Trojan Batteries, 600watt Inverter Dual EU2000i Hondas Just Me and Dog .. > I would go with a maintenance free but not AGM. This is due > to the high cost of the AGM with respect to the benefits in [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > thus the reason for a maintenance free type. Besides I am > apt to forget! ;-) Are you talking Gel-Cell or Wet-Cell? Signature-------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv > .. > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Are you talking Gel-Cell or Wet-Cell? Here is a link that provides a rather lengthy discussion on the difference of wet-cell and Gel-Cell. As I stated I have two AGM six volt batteries for a larger power bank, they are costly. The rather large batteries that came in my Dodge Ram diesel are sealed. All one has to do is keep them clean, they are more than likely Gel-Cell, I dont know, and the owners book does not say. BILL P. >> .. >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > BILL P. WOOPS!http://www.mmh.com/article/CA68733.html ... > Here is a link that provides a rather lengthy discussion on > the difference of wet-cell and Gel-Cell. As I stated I have [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > they are more than likely Gel-Cell, I dont know, and the > owners book does not say. One hopes not... since charging Gel-Cell with Wet-Cell voltages destroys them Signature-------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv > One hopes not... since charging Gel-Cell with Wet-Cell voltages > destroys them Everybody probably knows this except I didn't, so here it is anyway. The usual maintenance free car battery is a sealed flooded lead acid type with a built in hydrometer (green -eye) Some (two ball type) eyes also indicate low electrolyte level . http://www.itwdelpro.com/battery.html If the electrolyte is low, you have to toss the battery and get a new one. A battery store guy told me the green eye is only in one cell, so you can't tell if any other cell is "bad" unless you put it on one of those magic testing machines like they have. I like the non-sealed option so you can check all cells with a hydrometer and if one cell is not so good you can try the equalization trick with your nifty smart charger. OTOH batteries are so cheap and usually last for a while, that really you are ok with the green eye sealed type (Unless you are desperate for some chores to do with all the neat tools and gizmos you have accumulated) Regards, Barry Get a wet type and buy the Vector conditioner charger and use the re-conditioner at least 2 x a year and the battery will probably last longer than you! I have reconditioned a "dead" wet type with the Vector and it worked again for over a year and then was sold! The $100 spent of the reconditioner charger has been money in the bank for me. It is not worther putting AGM in for engine use. I use AGM for my hous ebatteries and they seem to last about 3-4 years ( that was befoere I got the reconditioner /charger so we'll see how this helps in about 3 years from now. Alternatively buy the Vector NOW and see how ell it recons your old battery. The priocess takes afew days but it is truly amazing. ( I am an EE with lota sof battery experience! ) > > One hopes not... since charging Gel-Cell with Wet-Cell voltages > > destroys them [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Regards, > Barry What the model of your Vector conditioner charger? Thanks.... > What the model of your Vector conditioner charger? > > Thanks.... Mine is the 1090A which is 20/10/2. There is a somewhat better one that starts at 40, a 1093? The reconditioning feature is probably the same for each though. With that and a generator, you can RV without annoying anxieties about your batteries. <G> Regards, Barry |
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