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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2006

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Dometic air conditioner problem

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contour@frontiernet.net - 10 Aug 2006 00:09 GMT
We've been full timing in a 1999 Forest River Windsong (going on 7 months)
while running our business and building ourselves an extensively renovated
little home. The RV has
two rooftop Dometic units.  The rear unit is fine, but the front produces no
cold air.  When I drop the thermostat temp, the fan goes on for a few
minutes, stops for less than a minute
and then cycles again..........over and over, without any cold air.  I can
hear what sounds like typical AC rumbling, vibrating........but without any
cooling.  Both units worked fine
when we bought the RV used back in December,  and I seem to remember that
one suddenly died when switching over from the generator (which we start up
every week or two to
keep in working condition) to our business'  external outlet.  I'm using 8
ga. wire (about forty feet to the breaker box) and a 30 amp breaker,  along
with a 50 to 30 plug adapter.
I read somewhere that momentary phase differences between the land  line and
generator when switching over can cause damage.  What is this off and on fan
cycling, without any
cooling, indicative of?   The one working unit is being taxed to the max in
this very warm New York weather recently.    thanks for any suggestions.   I
do have the manual and a multimeter for those of you who can tell me what to
look for and try doing.

anton
PJ - 10 Aug 2006 00:29 GMT
Probably a starter cap -- any good tech should be able to check it out for
you.  Most AC problems are beyond the shade tree guys.

Phil

> We've been full timing in a 1999 Forest River Windsong (going on 7 months)
> while running our business and building ourselves an extensively renovated
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> anton
Technobarbarian - 10 Aug 2006 01:14 GMT
>> We've been full timing in a 1999 Forest River Windsong (going on 7
>> months)
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> to
>> look for and try doing.

> Probably a starter cap -- any good tech should be able to check it out for
> you.  Most AC problems are beyond the shade tree guys.

    Some A/C problems require a tech. Some do not. At the current cost of
calling a tech out I personally like to pop the hood and take a look around
first. It could be something as simple as a loose connection.

http://www.dometicusa.com/pdf/drdac.pdf
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_16_1.asp#Level1_2

     With his symptoms I would want to know if the compressor was actually
running and if not, why not. I'd look at the start capacitor to see if it
showed any obvious signs of problems. If it's getting the proper voltage to
the compressor and it isn't starting this is a likely candidate. Sometimes
if they've been sitting for awhile compressors just need a good swift kick.
If it isn't getting power to the compressor then you can follow your wiring
diagram with the multimeter until you find the point where the power stops.

TB
Stanley Barthfarkle - 10 Aug 2006 06:16 GMT
> We've been full timing in a 1999 Forest River Windsong (going on 7 months)
> while running our business and building ourselves an extensively renovated
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> to
> look for and try doing.

Have you tried them one-at-a-time? 30 amps will only run 1 a/c unit.
Unk - 10 Aug 2006 16:21 GMT
>Have you tried them one-at-a-time? 30 amps will only run 1 a/c unit.

I have a dual compressor Coleman basement Heatpump/AC.  It draws about
12A with one comp and 24 with 2, depending on heat load.
Stanley Barthfarkle - 10 Aug 2006 19:16 GMT
>>Have you tried them one-at-a-time? 30 amps will only run 1 a/c unit.
>
> I have a dual compressor Coleman basement Heatpump/AC.  It draws about
> 12A with one comp and 24 with 2, depending on heat load.

Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per unit.
That's why 2 won't run on 30A.
Unk - 11 Aug 2006 01:04 GMT
>>>Have you tried them one-at-a-time? 30 amps will only run 1 a/c unit.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per unit.
>That's why 2 won't run on 30A.

Well, when I turn on the AC, IF the delta temp between the thermostat
and setpoint is greater then 2 or 3 degrees, one compressor turns on
and stabilizes.  Then after about 30 seconds, the second turns on.  

I have been in 100+ degree weather for 1+ month and always on 30A
service.  Other than one low voltage situation, it has worked every
time.  Anything else?

Dean
Stanley Barthfarkle - 11 Aug 2006 03:21 GMT
>>Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per
>>unit.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> service.  Other than one low voltage situation, it has worked every
> time.  Anything else?

Sure- You can explain to the OP how to get his 2 (separate) AC units working
on 30A, against conventional wisdom and physics.
Eisboch - 11 Aug 2006 10:42 GMT
>>>Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per
>>>unit.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Sure- You can explain to the OP how to get his 2 (separate) AC units
> working on 30A, against conventional wisdom and physics.

We had a 2002 Pace Arrow motorhome with two AC units and a 30 amp service.
The rig had some kind of energy managment system that monitored total
current draw and, under the right conditions, allowed both AC units to run.
It did not allow them to start at the same time.

Eisboch
Lon VanOstran - 11 Aug 2006 11:39 GMT
>>>Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per
>>>unit.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Sure- You can explain to the OP how to get his 2 (separate) AC units working
> on 30A, against conventional wisdom and physics.

Conventional wisdom isn't always correct. For 6 years, we ran both AC on
our 1999 Itasca Suncruiser on 30 amps. Together they drew 14 amps after
they were running. Start-up took a lot of power, but it only lasted a
couple seconds, which wasn't long enough to trip a breaker. The key was
to not try starting both at the same time. Start one, get it up and
running, and then start the other.

Lon
Jim Redelfs - 14 Aug 2006 05:03 GMT
For 6 years, we ran both AC on
> our 1999 Itasca Suncruiser on 30 amps. Together they drew 14 amps after
> they were running. Start-up took a lot of power, but it only lasted a
> couple seconds, which wasn't long enough to trip a breaker. The key was
> to not try starting both at the same time. Start one, get it up and
> running, and then start the other.

I recall years ago an accessory marketed by Camping World for a while.  This
device controlled the compressor start-up between the two units.

Are dual-air-airconditioned, 30-amp RVs still made?

If yes, is this "smart" power management function now built IN?
Signature

           :)
JR

NotMe - 14 Aug 2006 06:11 GMT
| For 6 years, we ran both AC on
| > our 1999 Itasca Suncruiser on 30 amps. Together they drew 14 amps after
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
|
| If yes, is this "smart" power management function now built IN?

There are standard thermostate controllers that do that.  The cell companies
use the them at almost every tower site.
Eisboch - 14 Aug 2006 10:59 GMT
> For 6 years, we ran both AC on
>> our 1999 Itasca Suncruiser on 30 amps. Together they drew 14 amps after
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> If yes, is this "smart" power management function now built IN?

Our 2002  30 amp Pace Arrow had two AC units and a factory installed power
management system.

Don't know about newer ones.

Eisboch
> JR
Lon VanOstran - 14 Aug 2006 11:41 GMT
> For 6 years, we ran both AC on
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> If yes, is this "smart" power management function now built IN?

It's the Powerline Energy Management System. It turns things off as you
approach 30 amps of draw, starting with the rear AC unit. It doesn't,
however, turn anything off when you are only drawing 14 amps.

Lon
flansp78@hotmail.com - 14 Aug 2006 17:36 GMT
> >>>Right, but your startup draw on the AC is probably between 18-22A per
> >>>unit.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Lon

I run both AC units without issue on 30Amps.  Although I prefer 50Amps,
30Amps has work fine in my current rig for 7 years.

Have you tried running the front AC alone to verified it works?

Paul
James Range - 28 Aug 2006 02:53 GMT
Just a thought, have you checked the condenser, the condenser fan blade
to make sure it is not loose on the shaft.  If the compressor is in fact
running, then it could be cycling on high head pressure.  A (Klix-on)
overload would be at the wiring terminal on the compressor.  Nothing you
can do with it though.  Just check that the condenser is getting air
thru it and not plugged up with leaves or dirt.  Just another area to
check out.

Dingopup

> We've been full timing in a 1999 Forest River Windsong (going on 7 months)
> while running our business and building ourselves an extensively renovated
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> anton
 
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