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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / August 2006chevy starter trouble
I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. >I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of > the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not > start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. > The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no > different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is > turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. I had something similar happen to me, it was the cable that ran from the positive terminal of the battery to hot side of the starter. It was just a mass of green crap when we cut the cable to check it out. It corrodes from the inside out. Check out that cable.  SignatureMoParMaN---Remove Clothes To Reply --SCUD Coordinates 32.61204 North: 96.92993 West-- > I had something similar happen to me, it was the cable that ran from the > positive terminal of the battery to hot side of the starter. It was just a > mass of green crap when we cut the cable to check it out. It corrodes from > the inside out. > > Check out that cable. Good advice, but he said the cables were new, right? Everybody cleans the surface the ground attaches, to, right? <g> Also, 12V at the starter isn't all you need. You need AMPS to turn that thing. And amps needs to be available at your batt.<s> Check starting amps with a load checker (a good Napa store will do this for you). A fully charged batt will show about 12.7 volts acrross the terminals, but will drop a LOT when you start the engine. If the batt is starting to go, this starting capacity is gone. The only other thing is the solenoid. Sometimes it gets gummy and won't open to allow the amps to flow to the starter. I think it's located on your starter if it's a GM. Naturally it's on the firewall on a Ford. (easier to check). HTH. > > I had something similar happen to me, it was the cable that ran from the > > positive terminal of the battery to hot side of the starter. It was just [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > HTH. Your advise is good too! Hank <~~likes good advise >>I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of >> the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not >> start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. >> The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no >> different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is >> turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. Are you saying that the heat from the exhaust destroyed the plastic cap on the solenoid? Or did it destroy the wire wrap on the wires? I had both these symptoms on my 92 k2500. I replaced the starter and within a couple months had the same problem. On the second start I made a heat shield from thin gauge sheet metal and mounted it around the solenoid, using the mounting screws from the solenoid to secure it in place. That starter has been on the truck now for 7 years and has not given me a lick of trouble. Nate I see where bestinvestors@gmail.com contributed: >I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of >the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not >start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. >The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no >different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is >turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. A known issue - the solution involves a relay to get enough juice to the solenoid windings for a solid pull-in - there is too much voltage drop through the ignition switch. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill >A known issue - the solution involves a relay to get enough juice to >the solenoid windings for a solid pull-in - there is too much voltage >drop through the ignition switch. You are on the right track. There needs to be about 9 to 9.5 volts on the soleniod terminal on starter for it to engage reliably (the small wire hookup on starter) if it is not present there will be no joy. Place a volt meter on the terminal and check voltage when key is turned (you will need help on this) and check voltage because my gues it is not there of enough of it. If missing , check starter realy under hood if this is a 92 to 2000 P/U. I had this problem recently on a 2000 K3500 with a 5.7. It turned out that the soleniod terminal in my case was so corroed that it could not make good contact and I could not even get nut off to clean it (they must have used some poor metal that year because I have never seen that before) so I had to replace starter to fix problem. I choose not to replace just soleniod based on appearance of starter overall. I got a aftermarket lifetime one in case it happens again. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com > I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of > the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not > start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. > The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no > different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is > turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. As a backyard mechanic, I would take jumper cables and a good battery and jump directly to the starter terminals making sure of a good ground and connection to see if the engine turns over. If it does, then the starter is good. If the starter is good, then check the starter solenoid. Over time, the contacts inside the solenoid become burnt/corroded due to sparking when contact is made, therefore not making a good connection. By jumping the 2 big terminals, this by-passes the solenoid. If this by-pass starts the engine, replace solenoid. Good luck and let us know what the solution is. Hank <~~~hates changing parts to find a solution > I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of > the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not start > the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. The new > starter was no different. The next three new starters were no different. > I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is turned. The > battery and cables are new. I am stumped.<<<< I'd say it was the ignition switch. It isn't sending electric to the solenoid when you turn the key. Make sure the RV is in nutural/park and then (on the solenoid) short across the battery lead and the small nut that has the wire from the ignition switch. If there are two small nuts with wires on them try both of them. If the engine turns over while these terminals are connected, your switch is bad. SignatureJerryD(upstateNY) > I'd say it was the ignition switch. > It isn't sending electric to the solenoid when you turn the key. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > -- > JerryD(upstateNY) Darn, you might be right Jerry. I was thinking of a separate solenoid that is not attached to the starter, but is located elsewhere. I forgot about GM having it on the starter. Hank <~~~can be wrong, but has basically the same idea >> I'd say it was the ignition switch. >> It isn't sending electric to the solenoid when you turn the key. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Hank <~~~can be wrong, but has basically the same idea And you have to be careful about getting the small wire on the right terminal. Older GM starters have two. I remember replacing one with a rebuilt that had two. Basically the same starter over the years but the older ones had a wire that ran to the coil. That one is not hooked up with electronic ignition. >And you have to be careful about getting the small wire on the right >terminal. Older GM starters have two. So do new ones (actually 3 but one it jumpered over to starter motor itself). It is not like a Ford. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com If your engine is in a motorhome, check the engine to chassis braided ground, strap. Don't just look at it, test it under starter load. Don't ask me why I thought of that. :-) There is always 12V on the large starter post. It should drop to no less than 10 V when the engine is cranking There should be 12V (actually 10 to 12) on the small starter solenoid wire when the key is turned to start. Jim >I have a chevy 7.4 litre and I replaced the started because the heat of > the engine took its toll on the starter. A month later I could not > start the engine. No click or sound when the ignition key is turned. > The new starter was no different. The next three new starters were no > different. I have 12 volts @ the starter terminals when the key is > turned. The battery and cables are new. I am stumped. >There should >be 12V (actually 10 to 12) on the small starter solenoid wire when the key >is turned to start. It will never be 12volts because of voltage drop but it should be in 10 to 11 volt range or a bit higher. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>There should >>be 12V (actually 10 to 12) on the small starter solenoid wire when the key [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com That's what I said...???? Jim I see where SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> contributed: Some one wrote: > . . .There should >>be 12V (actually 10 to 12) on the small starter solenoid wire when the key >>is turned to start. SM" >It will never be 12volts because of voltage drop but it should be in >10 to 11 volt range or a bit higher. Which is the reason I and others discovered years ago that one of several factors contributing to no-start problems on big-block GM motors (in addition to heat soak) was voltage drop in the supply from the switch. The solution I and others have used to deal with that is to energize a good relay that in turn brings the desired 12v right from the battery cable to the "ign" terminal on the starter solenoid. There are several other potential problems, not the least of which is a bad/missing engine ground. Can't diagnose them via mental telepathy, though. Will Sill The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill > There are several other potential problems, not the least of which is > a bad/missing engine ground. Can't diagnose them via mental > telepathy, though. Exactly, Will. When I replied, I listed the stuff to check in order of how easy it was to do, right? Like did he sand/clean the ground connection? Did he check for full voltage at batt? (12.7 V is about right). Any loose or dirty connections at the starter? One guy, nineball I think, had a great idea. Bypass the switch by using any old wire to apply 12V from the batt to the solenoid. All this could have been done in 5 minutes........................after his report on this, a diagnosis would have been pretty easy. <sigh> Slacker >Which is the reason I and others discovered years ago that one of >several factors contributing to no-start problems on big-block GM >motors (in addition to heat soak) was voltage drop in the supply from >the switch. The solution I and others have used to deal with that is >to energize a good relay that in turn brings the desired 12v right >from the battery cable to the "ign" terminal on the starter solenoid. GM went to a under hood relay on 88 body style trucks and if it is marginal you could just simply upgrade the wire size from it to starter as the wire in there now is about 16 ga. (I know because I just had to reterminate mine) Upgrade it to 12 ga and it will cut drop in half as with every 4 size increase in wire size, the resistance is cut in half. (like from 16 to 12) ----------------- TheSnoMan.com This is a common problem on Corvettes and other GM products. Go to a GM parts department and get a new solenoid spring that is lighter in force and it should remedy the problem. If I can find it I will reply with the part number tomorrow. PDDeen > >Which is the reason I and others discovered years ago that one of > >several factors contributing to no-start problems on big-block GM [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com The part number for the replacement is ACDelco #1958679. This should stop the problem caused by heat soak. Paul > This is a common problem on Corvettes and other GM products. Go to a GM > parts department and get a new solenoid spring that is lighter in [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > ----------------- > > TheSnoMan.com
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